Starting my engine rebuild. First time so I'm being cautious.
Going to use 77.5mm overbore RMV pistons. I'd like to do the RMV ported head as well., but thought of getting the car running first, or does it make more sense to put it in at the same time?
A couple questions:
One of the bearings disintegrated causing my engine to seize. Took out the crankshaft and I'm not sure I should reuse it. Can I polish it down to the correct tolerances or is that something a machine shop will do or should I just get a new one.
My timing chain cover/ oil pump housing has stress fractures. I posted on FB some said it's just part of manufacturing (see attached). Thoughts?

 

That #3 journal looked pretty tortured. I've always sent out my crank to a machine shop and have it turned just to be on the safe side.
I admire your bold ambition. If I had the proper space I would have made the same choice to rebuild as well.
very best luck to you.
looking forward to following your progress!

 

following.

I would let the machine shop have a look a the crank. looks too far gone to me

the cover looks alright. if you can find one used for cheap, it might be a no brainer

https://www.allmagautoparts.com might have it

 

The crank looks bad to me but in theory it should clean up as the crank is harder then the bearing. I would let the machine shop decide.

As for the timing chain cover, definitely replace that. I have never seen one with cracks like that. Also keep in mind that the pump itself could contain debris and particles from that bearing. I would not take the risk.

 

Agree that the crank looks toasted. Since you're, in there...

maybe time for a stroker crank!

 

Being a former air cooled Porsche and VW guy - I love the idea of going big bore. I often wondered how big of a bore you can get away with on these Mini engines before the cylinder walls become too thin?
Anyway - I like the idea of a stroker crank - if budget allows.
Just the idea of you saving your Mini by rebuilding the engine is a comfort and admiration!

 

Good advice, I'll have the machine shop look at the crankshaft, I found some used crankshafts on eBay, they look OK, but I'll have to check the tolerances, right? What tool(s) will I need?
I think I'll just get a new oil pump and cover just to be safe.
Ordered the pistons, and King main bearings. Looking for rod bearings any one have experience?
Also should I put the ported head at the same time as I do the initial rebuild, I'm starting to think just do it all at once.

 

yes, if you have time and budget now, I'd do it all now. thats just my opinion. do it right the first time. especially if you plan to keep it long term

 

Thanks for that. I ordered the ported head, sending my current head over to RMW. I can add the exhaust and header later. I got a chance to speak with Jan. Very positive guy.

First time going to the machine shop, goals:

• Getting the engine cleaned, bored and honed.
• I have a bolt hole (connects to the head) to be filled and re-tapped,
• need to have the crankshaft machined for the seized bearing and hopefully saved. A new crankshaft is like $1,800.

For assembly everything I've read or watched is about cleanliness. So I'll do a deep clean of the garage space where I will do the assembly. I have an engine stand for convienience.
For the block I've heard:

• Wash with brake cleaner / soap and water?
• Clean out then, blow out all of the cavities in the block.
• Then quickly apply WD40 to all machined surfaces so it doesn't flash rust.
• Assemble soon after for best results.
• Need new head bolts and new block (girdle) bolts.
• I also want to paint the engine, cause if not now, when?

Any other tips or tricks I should know?

 

Wow. Good news so far.
Have you considered a reconditioned crank should yours not be salvageable?
Ported head - maybe a mild street cam if feasible? Then again perhaps that may be an added cost to upgrade to the valve trane(?...I don't know)....
Nice to see your moving forward so quickly on this rebuild!

 

good to hear your moving forward. I've wanted to do this for some time. just for the experience.

that crank is expensive, however think of it in the context of buying a new car. when you finish your restore it should be like new