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Starting my engine rebuild. First time so I'm being cautious.
Going to use 77.5mm overbore RMV pistons. I'd like to do the RMV ported head as well., but thought of getting the car running first, or does it make more sense to put it in at the same time?
A couple questions:
One of the bearings disintegrated causing my engine to seize. Took out the crankshaft and I'm not sure I should reuse it. Can I polish it down to the correct tolerances or is that something a machine shop will do or should I just get a new one.
My timing chain cover/ oil pump housing has stress fractures. I posted on FB some said it's just part of manufacturing (see attached). Thoughts?
That #3 journal looked pretty tortured. I've always sent out my crank to a machine shop and have it turned just to be on the safe side.
I admire your bold ambition. If I had the proper space I would have made the same choice to rebuild as well.
very best luck to you.
looking forward to following your progress!
The crank looks bad to me but in theory it should clean up as the crank is harder then the bearing. I would let the machine shop decide.
As for the timing chain cover, definitely replace that. I have never seen one with cracks like that. Also keep in mind that the pump itself could contain debris and particles from that bearing. I would not take the risk.
Being a former air cooled Porsche and VW guy - I love the idea of going big bore. I often wondered how big of a bore you can get away with on these Mini engines before the cylinder walls become too thin?
Anyway - I like the idea of a stroker crank - if budget allows.
Just the idea of you saving your Mini by rebuilding the engine is a comfort and admiration!
I would let the machine shop have a look a the crank. looks too far gone to me
the cover looks alright. if you can find one used for cheap, it might be a no brainer
Good advice, I'll have the machine shop look at the crankshaft, I found some used crankshafts on eBay, they look OK, but I'll have to check the tolerances, right? What tool(s) will I need?
I think I'll just get a new oil pump and cover just to be safe.
Ordered the pistons, and King main bearings. Looking for rod bearings any one have experience?
Also should I put the ported head at the same time as I do the initial rebuild, I'm starting to think just do it all at once.
yes, if you have time and budget now, I'd do it all now. thats just my opinion. do it right the first time. especially if you plan to keep it long term
yes, if you have time and budget now, I'd do it all now. thats just my opinion. do it right the first time. especially if you plan to keep it long term
Thanks for that. I ordered the ported head, sending my current head over to RMW. I can add the exhaust and header later. I got a chance to speak with Jan. Very positive guy.
First time going to the machine shop, goals:
Getting the engine cleaned, bored and honed.
I have a bolt hole (connects to the head) to be filled and re-tapped,
need to have the crankshaft machined for the seized bearing and hopefully saved. A new crankshaft is like $1,800.
For assembly everything I've read or watched is about cleanliness. So I'll do a deep clean of the garage space where I will do the assembly. I have an engine stand for convienience.
For the block I've heard:
Wash with brake cleaner / soap and water?
Clean out then, blow out all of the cavities in the block.
Then quickly apply WD40 to all machined surfaces so it doesn't flash rust.
Assemble soon after for best results.
Need new head bolts and new block (girdle) bolts.
I also want to paint the engine, cause if not now, when?
Wow. Good news so far.
Have you considered a reconditioned crank should yours not be salvageable?
Ported head - maybe a mild street cam if feasible? Then again perhaps that may be an added cost to upgrade to the valve trane(?...I don't know)....
Nice to see your moving forward so quickly on this rebuild!
I finally got the block and crankshaft back from the shop. He was able to turn the bearings channels on the crankshaft, bored +0.5mm, honed and cleaned the block, even measured and put the rings on the cylinders. Plus all New oversized bearings.
Still waiting on the new head from RMW, should I be worried?
In the meantime I dropped the front subframe, all the joints and rubber was shot! I replaced the inner and outer ball joints, control arm bushings, stabilizer links, sway bar bushings and tie rods. Cleaned and removed some rust, repainted the sway bar and subframe plates.
Cleaned and added moly grease to the steering rack a well
It came out nice.
While I waited for the machine shop, I also painted the transmission and engine mounts. That all came out way better than I expected. A lot of work. Cleaned, used a wire brush, then used 2 coats of self etching primer, then 2 coats of the 2k alumablast.from Eastwood.
Paint the engine next, 2K Eastwood black, then rebuild time 👍👍 Before and after, the bushings and ball joints were shot. subframe ready back in place transmission before transmission after paint looking good, crankshaft turned bored and honed
For a moment there I thought I read that you had painted the engine and gearbox; black - I misread.
Often wondered why someone would choose to paint their engine blocks black???
Oil leaks can be hard enough to trace as it is...even on a non painted "metal" block...let alone black!
I'm about to put the block back together. I heard (from Mod Mini and others) that you shouldn't use the main cap bearing bolts (M10 75mm), but you can reuse the outer bolts - which I'll do. I can find direct replacements, but I was looking for something stronger like ARP Chromoly 8740 bolts to go with my stronger bottom end. I can't seem to find those, except a UK site that sells all 20 bolts, plus $55 in shipping. On FB someone suggested using ARP Syline r33 bolts.
Are the OEM bolts fine and I'm over thinking it? Anyone know where I should look?
"For a moment there I thought I read that you had painted the engine and gearbox; black - I misread."
I actually did ;-) but I will post that later.
I'm about to put the block back together. I heard (from Mod Mini and others) that you shouldn't use the main cap bearing bolts (M10 75mm), but you can reuse the outer bolts - which I'll do. I can find direct replacements, but I was looking for something stronger like ARP Chromoly 8740 bolts to go with my stronger bottom end. I can't seem to find those, except a UK site that sells all 20 bolts, plus $55 in shipping. On FB someone suggested using ARP Syline r33 bolts.
Are the OEM bolts fine and I'm over thinking it? Anyone know where I should look?
On an engine like you are building, I would feel better with the ARP bolts. I have no idea if they are necessary but looking at the 1.62L and 1.8L stroker engines that Revolution Motor Works has on their website, there is no mention of ARP main cap bolts even though ARP rod bolts and head studs are listed on those engines.
