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MCS StormCooper engine rebuild thread

MCS StormCooper engine rebuild thread

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Old 05-12-2018, 08:49 AM
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MCS StormCooper engine rebuild thread

After some prompting from fellow NAM friends, I am starting the thread regarding my already underway engine rebuild for my daughter's 09 MCS that she calls StormCooper - see pics for the vinyl design that she created for the car.
The history is that she ran the car too low on oil one too many times and the timing chain gave out causing her engine to skip time.

So I purchased a donor car from Copart for a working engine. It was my first experience buying a salvaged car online and I made all the mistakes possible. I ended up with a possible flood car with an engine that needed to be rebuilt.

I have the engine stripped down to the short block and have finally found a machine shop that I like in Houston and I'm planning on taking it to them on Monday.

HOWEVER! I am having trouble removing the bedplate.

Can anyone provide some pro tips on how to remove the bedplate without any damage to the block?

I have a Bentley on order but it won't be here before Monday.

I'll fill in the rest of the story in later posts.

Thanks in advance for any help that you can provide!



 
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Old 05-12-2018, 03:35 PM
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more pics

 
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Old 05-12-2018, 03:36 PM
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and a third
 
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Old 05-12-2018, 03:37 PM
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For some reason I had to approve/moderate this thread so it has not been up for the general membership that long.

Would think you should get some responses.
 
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Old 05-12-2018, 03:39 PM
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  #6  
Old 05-13-2018, 04:17 PM
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I was able to separate the Bedplate from the block once I noticed that there were two bolt caps covering up the last two main bolts. Once I pried (and destroyed) the caps, I was able to remove the bedplate easily.

Now to find a part number for two new caps for the reassembly.
 
  #7  
Old 05-13-2018, 04:22 PM
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Are you familiar with RealOEM? You should be able to pull up the part number.
 
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Old 05-15-2018, 11:44 AM
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Best timing chain kit for the N14 R56?

Curious about opinions on who makes the best timing chain kit that includes the chain, plastic bits, tension bolt and retaining bolts.

Does something like this exist?
 
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Old 06-16-2018, 02:16 PM
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I found a place to machine the block and do the head work and I'm now ready to put in the piston rings. I'm trying to locate a source for reliable information regarding gap settings for each ring. Any help would be appreciated!









 
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Old 07-08-2018, 09:05 AM
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I finally put the pistons in. I'm' still waiting on my angle dial gauge that I can use to finish the torque requirements for all the internal torque to yield bolts. I ordered new connecting rod bolts from ECS but they require a 9mm 12 point socket - which I didn't have. The dial gauge and the sockets will be here later this week.




 
  #11  
Old 07-09-2018, 10:24 AM
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As I am preparing to put the bed plate back together and torque the crank down, it occurred to me that I can't remember if there was a gasket that was between the block and the bedplate. Seems like there should be! Can anyone offer some input on this, please?
 
  #12  
Old 07-09-2018, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Bcoday View Post
Curious about opinions on who makes the best timing chain kit that includes the chain, plastic bits, tension bolt and retaining bolts.

Does something like this exist?
Dealer has one but don't know whether or not it's the "best". Part # can be found in RealOEM. There's also a gasket kit for all the head-mounted parts, except for the exhaust and actual head gasket. If you can't decide which size head gasket thickness to use, talk to the machinist's about how much material was removed. Try working with the various NAM vendors for kit pricing / availability --- there's quite a variety available.

Originally Posted by Bcoday View Post
As I am preparing to put the bed plate back together and torque the crank down, it occurred to me that I can't remember if there was a gasket that was between the block and the bedplate. Seems like there should be! Can anyone offer some input on this, please?
There is no OEM gasket. I used the same sealant as on the pan (also no OEM gasket).

Curious about your pistons --- did you go oversize or just a clean-up bore and trust new rings to keep oil burn to a minimum? Oversize pistons and rings should have the ring gap dimensions included with the instructions.

Were you able to work out the main bearing color coding, or did you ignore the manual and go with only one color?

If you plan to do all the assembly, be prepared for lotsa special tools. I haven't heard of any substitute for the fuel injector seal tool, and if this is a one-time chore for you, maybe take the seals, injectors and head to a shop that has the tool. Labor costs should be comparable to tool costs. Or, get the tool, use it, then re-sell it after you're confidence level is high enough.

Check out youtube videos for guidance on cam timing --- forget anything you may have learned about other engine timing procedures --- TDC has little or no timing purpose, only useful when checking piston-to-valve clearance. If your head work included new valves, the machinist needs all the cams, lifters, rockers, etc to set valve preload --- ask him about it. Hopefully you and your machinist have some Mini experience and I'm wasting my time with all this basic stuff.

I used to swear by the Bentley manual, but then I found out there was a torque spec update on the crankshaft TTY center bolt --- the one used for timing. Newtis has the correct spec.

Eventually you'll need a code reader. I can't recommend one over the others 'cause I use an AccessPort. Be sure to get one with ECU reset capability.

And finally, have patience, you're gonna need it. Best of luck ---
 
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  #13  
Old 07-10-2018, 10:06 AM
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Looks super clean, can't wait to see this done.
 
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Old 07-14-2018, 07:52 PM
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Curious about your pistons --- did you go oversize or just a clean-up bore and trust new rings to keep oil burn to a minimum? Oversize pistons and rings should have the ring gap dimensions included with the instructions.

I did not go oversized but just had the cylinders honed and used new MAHLE rings. I purchased a ring grinder to make sure that I did a good job of measuring the gap for each ring. As you know, I had some trouble finding the correct gap size for each ring but I settled on this site and guide.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...-pins/2SGSapgG

I measured the gap at 3 different locations within the cylinder to make sure the the measurements didn't change and that I had good spacing throughout the length of each cylinder.

Were you able to work out the main bearing color coding, or did you ignore the manual and go with only one color?

After extensive discussions with my favorite mechanic and the machine shop, I decided not to replace the crank bearings. I know that I'll get some negative comments about this but they showed no signs of wear and tolerances seemed fine. I am still on the fence about this and haven't torqued down the crank yet (or the connecting rods) until I'm more comfortable with this decision.



{Take a look at the spacing between the block and the bedplate. Doesn't it look like there's a gasket in there?}



Here are the pics of the bearing code on the side of my engine and on the crank. A little hard to read but I'm seeing:

Crankshaft: KPNNN
Engine block: KKIKK

Based on what I have found, that would mean that the bearing color would be as follows:

Bearing 1 Top half (K/K) = Green
Bearing 1 Bottom half (K/K) = Green

Bearing 2 Top half (P/K) = Green
Bearing 2 Bottom half (P/K)= Black

Bearing 3 Top half (N/I)= Green
Bearing 3 Bottom half (N/I) = Black

Bearing 4 Top half (N/K) = Green
Bearing 4 Bottom half (N/K) = Black

Bearing 5 Top half (N/K) = Green
Bearing 5 Bottom half (N/K) = Black

I used this site for the info:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...arings/Fof558q

If you are so inclined, would you mind letting me know if this is trustworthy info? Like I said, I am still on the fence about the new bearings.

If you plan to do all the assembly, be prepared for lotsa special tools. I haven't heard of any substitute for the fuel injector seal tool, and if this is a one-time chore for you, maybe take the seals, injectors and head to a shop that has the tool. Labor costs should be comparable to tool costs. Or, get the tool, use it, then re-sell it after you're confidence level is high enough.

I'm purchasing and/or borrowing some special tools (like the camshaft timing tool) because I am doing another N14 right after this one. So this one is sort of a learner engine! I haven't considered getting a seat tool. I saw this video about replacing the injectors and thought that it would work fine. I am reusing the old injectors and I'm not sure if the teflon washer is included but the other rings and spacers are included. What are your thoughts about this guys method?


Check out youtube videos for guidance on cam timing --- forget anything you may have learned about other engine timing procedures --- TDC has little or no timing purpose, only useful when checking piston-to-valve clearance. If your head work included new valves, the machinist needs all the cams, lifters, rockers, etc to set valve preload --- ask him about it. Hopefully you and your machinist have some Mini experience and I'm wasting my time with all this basic stuff.

You're not wasting your time at all. Every comment is helpful and much appreciated. I've read your input for a long time on this site and you are one of 3-4 people that I trust for information.

I used to swear by the Bentley manual, but then I found out there was a torque spec update on the crankshaft TTY center bolt --- the one used for timing. Newtis has the correct spec.

I spent $100 on the Bentley manual only to find that - so far - it hasn't been all that helpful. I'm sure it will but the information that I really need right now are correct torque specs for the camshaft bolts! I find that most places say that 10nm is enough but that is not much at all! Plus, I'm afraid that my torque wrench (the 2nd one that I've purchased so far) only goes down to 13.5nm. I also can't find out if the cam hold down bolts are TTY and need to be replaced. They feel like TTY when I try to torque them down.

Incidentally, the first cheap torque wrench that I purchased also didn't go low enough for my connecting rod cap bolts and I've already snapped one of them trying to get them torqued properly. I've read that they need to be torqued to 24nm then another 150 degrees after that. Are you aware of the correct measurements for these bolts?

Eventually you'll need a code reader. I can't recommend one over the others 'cause I use an AccessPort. Be sure to get one with ECU reset capability.

I've got one of these already.
 
  #15  
Old 07-15-2018, 06:18 PM
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When breaking in the rings, be sure to use non-synthetic oil --- that synthetic stuff prevents rings from seating properly and will cause excessive oil consumption. Save the synthetics for after break-in.

Regarding your block / bedplate gasket --- if RealOEM doesn't show one, there probably isn't one available. If one was originally installed, it probably was discontinued along with the oil pan gasket. Try working with a Mini parts dept to find out if one's available. I used a "gasket-in-a-tube" for both oil pan and bedplate / block.

For a DD, you should be OK without replacing main or rod bearings. Without looking up your codes in the newTIS tables, it looks like you have a good understanding of how it works. You might let the bearings cost be the deciding factor on whether or not you get them.

The video of injector seal replacement is misleading --- his teflon seals were already installed on his injectors, so there was no need to "compress" them. If you install your own, they gotta be stretched over the tip, slid into the groove, then compressed to the same outer dia as the injector shaft. They only stay compressed for a few minutes (OK, maybe up to a half hour) after installing them and they will expand enough to make injector insertion almost impossible without damaging the seal. The tool has five pieces for this seal --- a pliers-like device to cut off the old seal, one piece for installing a new seal onto the injector shaft, and three pieces used to compress the seal (install is done in three separate stages). These seals are included in the dealers head gasket kit --- don't know about kits from other sources.

Pretty sure newtis has all the torque specs you need. Again, I'm too lazy to look them up myself, knowing I gotta do it again in a few months. Also, note that there has been a torque spec change since Bentley was published. The crank center bolt has been tightened up --- newtis has the correct value. It might not affect a DD, but mine came loose and the resultant timing error blew all my exhaust valves --- possibly more damage too, I haven't done a complete teardown yet.

I have access to the old TIS and it says the cam bearing caps use M6 bolts tightened to 10Nm --- nothing about replacing them, so probably not TTY. I haven't compared this to the newtis or Bentley.

Finally, thanks for having faith in my input. Just be advised that I'm not always right and need to be double checked.
 
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Old 07-15-2018, 07:30 PM
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Almost forgot --- if you're looking for a torque wrench to read very small numbers, here's an "old-school" version ---
Amazon Amazon
. I've been using this "beam" type for big stuff for most of my adult life. My small "clicker", about 50 years old, cost about $50 new. Over $300 now, but it was just repaired / calibrated and will read the 0.6Nm on the tensioner tool.
 
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