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We've now added a new family member "Otto" that we added on January 5, 2025 - a 2005 MCS in dark gray, manual, pano & cloth with ~78k miles.
Here's a few photos of the new family member from the day we brought him home. Introducing Otto.
This thread will be the journey of building and upgrading a 20 year old MCS. Oh, and I paid $4k for the car.
I'll post additional pics later, but here's what I've already done - New: DDM Intake; Ceramic Tint; Full Service and I took Paul's wheels/tires and put them on Otto. I also replaced the trim and rubber around the upper and lower part of the windshield.
A few days after I bought Otto and drove the snot out of it, I realized that Paul's wheel/tire combo would look better on Otto - so I swapped them. Of course the dreaded Tire Sensor/DCS light combo came on the dash. Initially I researched the crap out of whether Gen 1 MCS' had wheel sensors or not, what frequency, etc. FWIW, there's a LOT of misinformation out there about ABS sensors in the Gen 1 Mini - they don't have them. Most threads claim the error is either an ABS sensor, the Steering Angle Sensor or the Clockspring. I connected my code bluetooth reader and it came up as Steering Angle and DCS error. So.. I bought a new diagnostic tool (more money) and could read the ABS sensors as I was driving - they all looked good. The tool I bought could do the calibration, but the codes would always come back after a 20-50 foot drive. Steering Angle Sensor was initially refurbished with a kit from Australia that has more durable finger on the sensor. I did that to not have to go the dealer to have it recoded. P.S. After swapping the Steering Angle Sensor guts, I still had the dash light errors and I couldn't get the sensor to calibrate properly. I even stopped by a couple of shops that claimed they could code the MCS to make the sensor lights go away and no joy. So ultimately I bought a new BMW part and installed it. Again, error lights were lit. Finally, I took it to a Mini dealer and they coded it away for $200. Money well spent and it's been great ever since. Whew.
Now the "bad" news. Of course they asked whether they could offer me a full vehicle inspection and I agreed. Worst case I would know exactly what needed to be done on what I thought was a very well maintained Gen 1 MCS. Keep in mind - at 78k miles, I didn't think much was wrong with the car. I saw where the car was supposedly parked every day and there was nothing on the floor marking drips or drops. The owner claimed a new clutch and new brakes, as well as supercharger oil change.
Well, it is a 20 year old car - with some history of being parked outside (not in a garage), so I anticipated some rubber deterioration. In hindsight, I sort of knew that there was likely lots of rubber deterioration from when I replaced the windshield trim - as the plastic parts were all brittle and broke easily. The rubber was also sort of rotting. Oh well.
Anyway, here's the list from the dealer:
Rear wiper inop
Front struts worn excessively and torn
Shock tower boots cracked
Valve cover weeping oil
Power steering hoses weeping
Water pump weeping
Power steering high pressure line weeping
Oil pan gasket weeping
Control arm bushings cracked
Passenger CV boot torn
Not the whole list but above are the high points. Total estimate: $11,367.50 (parts and labor). Ugg. Looks like I'll be doing some work and my local mechanic (that has maintained Paul as long as I've owned him) will do more.
So, the first ~$2k has been spent. New shocks/struts Koni Yellow's, 3/4" lowering springs (Eibach), new shock strut mounts, forge adjustable rear control arms, rear upper shock mounts, front strut shaft boots and new bump stops. This will be the work that I do. I "may" do some of the below items, but I'll be crunched for time if I do the bulk of it.
The second $1.5k of parts is sitting in my WMW shopping cart and include:
New coolant hoses
Power steering pressure line
Fel-Pro Valve Cover Gasket (I can do this one)
Water Pump
Fel-Pro Oil Pan Gasket
Power steering hose O ring
Power Steering Pump to Rack hose
Powerflex Suspension Bushings (Handling Pack)
Power steering suction line
WMW Rear Swaybar 19mm
I also have a new aluminum coolant tank to put it. The coolant hoses include the coolant tank hoses, so I'll have the tank installed when the hoses are changed. I'll also install the new sway bar when I do all the suspension work. My local Firestone dealer offers lifetime alignments for $120, so I'll get an alignment after the initial suspension work and after all the suspension bushings are replaced.
Much later or future plans call for bigger brakes, stainless brake lines, a 15% pulley, GP intercooler, Milltek exhaust and LSD. I'll probably drive Paul most of the time and keep Otto for Sundays and a few track days each year.
So, the journey starts! Over the coming month or so I need to have all the work completed before Alex (Alexandra - my WAY better half) and I do a major 1500 mile trip with Otto in early June.
Anyway, be well, drive safe, have fun in the corners and drive on.
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Jul 14, 2025 at 12:43 PM.
Found a cracked fog light the other day, but that's an easy fix. Lamp still works, but it'll suffer a bit in the rain.
If there's time, I'll R&R it before the trip. I'd also like to polish the headlight lenses before the trip, but Otto will be out of my hands for more than a week after I get the suspension done. It'll be tight timing.
Now that Colorado has the mandatory hands free law, I added a phone holder. Of course the Mini R53 cup holders sort of suck, I added some double cup holders. Both came from an online seller - but the phone holder was only the mount, not the phone holder itself, so I used an old phone holder that has a screw on mount. It's pretty solid too.
Added the GROM cable to have music from my phone (SiriusXM mainly) from the rear hatch area connector and I wired it up to the front seats. Didn't connect it under the dash yet, but may ultimately do that too. SiriusXM is clear on the HK stereo and sounds great. The nav doesn't display anything when the GROM is in use (no titles from the phone) but it does switch the display to the map/stats for a second or three before it goes back to the GROM (display) screen. Not the best, but works great for now. I don't plan on changing out the nav or the HK stereo any time soon. I really wish the car had the Chrono Pack option instead of nav, but that's the lemons. The GROM cable has me making lemonade.
WMW suspension parts are now on the way to me. Should be here early next week. I'll fully assemble the shocks with new springs/hats/plates to make the install easier and get them on next weekend 5/10. Hoping the second batch of parts arrives before next weekend because I failed to order the 19mm RSB in the first batch. I'm planning on doing the RSB when I do the shocks/struts/springs. Oh and the alternator died on my 2002 Ford Ranger last weekend so that is Saturday morning 5/3.
Balance order of hoses & gaskets were ordered yesterday (second batch of parts) and should be shipping today - ETA will be sometime next week. Since we're doing a quick weekend trip on 5/15, Todd (my Mini mechanic) will get the car sometime the week of 5/12. Hoping to pick it up the week of 5/19, then I can finish all the other items on the list before our trip on 6/6.
Third batch of parts - 15% or 16% pulley, plug wires, plugs, exhaust & brakes will get ordered around 6/1. I will do the install of the pulley, plug wires, spark plugs & exhaust, Todd will install the brakes sometime the week of 6/9 or 6/16.
LSD should get ordered around 7/7 or so. Todd will do the LSD install in July around 7/14.
Hoping Otto is done around mid to late July in time for some autocross or track time at Great Plains Raceway.
FWIW, Paul gets new tires on 6/1, but new wheels will be in August.
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; May 9, 2025 at 10:51 AM.
Koni Yellows, Eibach springs and new bump stops installed on the front. Yay!
I figure it'll settle a bit once Otto's back on the road.
Received the adjustable rear arms today. Awaiting the rear sway bar from WMW to put the rear koni's and the adjustable arms on - RSB shipped yesterday and delivery is expected to be Thursday.
All the other fluid parts (power steering and coolant hoses) "may" ship this week. WMW is closed this Thursday/Friday for Mini's on the Dragon. Maybe next year. Paul ('13 R56 MC) is at Todd's getting a fluids change and possibly a new clutch. At 156k miles, I think it's time to replace the clutch. Pedal engagement feel sort of sucks - not slipping yet, but it's really light at the bottom (pedal all the way in) and grabs to engage at the top of the pedal stroke (~2" from all the way out). Todd is checking now and I'll know more today/tomorrow.
Oh, and I had to work around the baby chicks and ducklings while working on Otto. They kept me company in the garage. Hoping they'll be outside in their new coop/home this coming weekend and I'll get the garage back.
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; May 6, 2025 at 01:20 PM.
Koni Yellows, 19mm RSB and Forge adjustable arms installed yesterday.
I adjusted the arms to the same length as the fixed arms so that should be good enough to drive up to Todd's for the rest of the work. Todd will have an alignment done after the front suspension work anyway.
Took a quick drive around a few blocks to settle the suspension and check the ride quality. Ride is firm(er), but not bad. FWIW, I adjusted the fronts to +25% or one half turn towards firm and the rears at 50% or one full turn towards firm (rebound dampening). Two full turns are available on Koni Yellows and I'm sure that I will muck around with it more after all the other work is done on the front bushings and all the hoses replaced.
Big thanks to the various posts around rear Koni shock assembly (thank you NAM search function!). The beveled/relieved side of the thick washer/stop goes towards the C-clip wire (from the top of the shock or hat side of the shock - so the C-clip and the beveled side goes towards the ground, not towards the sky) and yes it does snap over the end - and also yes, the hats do need to be drilled out to fit over the shock rod.
Had a heck of a time installing the top nut though. Went to O'Reily's to buy a spring compressor. Used some hand clamps on the springs for the front, but it didn't work on the rears.
Here's the rear photo after the quick drive. Definitely lower! (Pardon the dirty Mini though).
Received the new (red) coolant hoses yesterday from WMW. One more delivery today from Way - but I'm unsure what exactly has shipped and what has not shipped. I'm assuming that the power steering lines/hoses and the front bushing rebuild kit have not shipped, but can't really tell from their website. It shows my order as partially shipped and three boxes have shipped out (two have already been delivered).
We still have time before our big trip in 3 weeks. Should still have plenty of time.
I've learned a bunch around assembling Koni Yellows over the past few days. Reach out if you need help with yours and I'll walk you through what I did.
Cheers!
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; May 9, 2025 at 07:57 AM.
The photo above was approximately the mid-point of the rebuild. All of the coolant hoses were replaced, along with a new aluminum coolant tank, and we started on the bushing replacements by lowering the subframe. Thank goodness Todd has a large vehicle lift and a few transmission carts.
Torn bushings were a bear to get out but finally did it. Pressed the new ones in and all was good. While the subframe was down, the rebuilt passenger side CV was put in. Turns out there are some differences between generations of CVs. Bought one, wouldn't go in, bought a second (thinking the first one was mismarked) and it still wouldn't slip fit. ended up rebuilding the original - which added another day. The original obviously installed easily and all is good. Then went on the power steering hoses and we took the subframe down to the local car wash to degrease the subframe from all the grease at the torn CV boot.
On Wednesday morning while we were waiting for the CV (and before the planned long trip), I put in the new fog lights (originals were cracked) because I had some time. By Wednesday afternoon, the subframe was off, control arms were removed and the new power steering lines were routed.
Thursday had the new control arm bushings installed, everything was reattached and we took it for an alignment. After the alignment, the car's front grill bumper facia and tubes were reinstalled. Todd and the guys took Otto for a shake down drive to ensure no leaks (there weren't). After multiple heat and cool down cycles, everyone claimed the car was good to go.
By 9p Otto was back home and in the garage.
Friday morning at about 5a, Alex started the first leg of our 1600 mile trip from Colorado (Denver'ish) to Paris, Arkansas. The car drove very well - not problems and no issues. Sunday took us from Paris, AR to Branson, MO - only a three hour drive if we went direct, but we drove over 6 hours through the Ozark Mountains (Pig's Tail and more) to get to Branson - with lots of pit stops and sightseeing.
On Thursday, we started the final leg back to Colorado. Again, the car drove great - no issues or problems. Most of the trip was driven at ~85 MPH on the interstate (and some faster and some slower where we could find curvy roads) or so and we got ~28MPG overall for the entire trip. Highest was ~31.3 MPG for one tank of gas, lowest was 25.7 MPG for one tank (all 91 octane).
On the Tuesday after we returned on Thursday night, I took the car to a local PDR guy to do the hood (I said there were ~5 dime sized hail dings on the hood - he circled ~45 dings. It took hime 2 days to do the hood, but it looks great.
Now the bad news. It turns out there is a very small crease below the Mini logo on the front of the hood. It's not really noticeable but it is definitely there if you look. He did his best to get it straight, but it's not the best. Now I've started looking for a new hood, but pickings are scarce for those in good shape - and I really don't want to respray the car. Also under consideration is a carbon fiber hood. Started researching carbon hood vendors and from what I've gathered, carbon quality varies widely. Seibon will likely be the choice if I go that direction. I still need to make some phone calls to discuss with the vendors, but that decision will be made in July or so.
Today (6/19) more WMW parts arrive - front tower strut brace w/tower caps. Also arriving is the 15% pully, new plug wires, new colder plugs and a new ignition module. From eBay today is a new to me (used) Mini Cooper spoiler in white. FWIW, the prior one that I bought has one of the attachment bolts that is buggered up and while I tried to JB Weld in in, I'd feel better with one in sturdy condition - so I bought another. Both the front strut brace and the spoiler should be installed later today.
I've already watched the Mod Mini (and a few others) video(s) of the pulley install. I should have the pulley, plug wires, spark wires and ignition module installed this Saturday. I'll take photos as I go.
I bought the M7 under brace and the rear brace for behind the seats. I really only wanted the seat brace and will install that first, then maybe the under brace. I want to see how the under brace attaches (I know there is drilling involved) and want to see how much ground clearance I lose with the under brace. The back seat brace is awaiting anodizing and should be here after July 4th and our return from our Ogallala, NE camping trip.
The only item planned for July is the GP Wing install - and that means that I need to order it first, but that's next. It'll be black with a clear coat on the carbon wing portion - hence the possibility of adding a carbon hood. Might tie the car in pretty well. August will be a complete brake replacement - new R56 fronts (calipers and rotors), new disks on the rear - stainless hoses everywhere. Where I'm in indecision is what pads to install - Hawk, Carbotech or EBC. I'm sure there are others and I'm still researching. I want pads for street and track and would prefer not to swap them for either activity, lower dust is preferred, as well as quiet on the street. I know it's a lot to ask, but I'd still like to get my cake and eat it too.
One more item, after the 15% pulley, plugs, wires and ignition module are installed and I drive it for a bit, I'll make the determination around a larger intercooler. It's most likely, but yet TBD.
Be well all and keep driving!
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Jun 19, 2025 at 11:30 AM.
The WMW strut tower brace installed and the replacement spoiler is on. All good for today. Tomorrow is the new pulley, plugs, ignition module and new belt. (Hopefully!)
The pulley install went fairly easy thanks to the video prep (thank you ModMini!).
One item that sort of bugs me is the lack of a torque spec on the pulley screws from WMW. I did some research and didn't really come up with anything definitive but they're in, the pulley doesn't slip, so I think I'm good(?).
(And) Through the magic of the Internet - the pulley is installed!
While the subframe and steering rack were cleaned at the car wash doing the bushing and hose install, the mid section of the motor didn't really get much cleaning at all.
So I took the opportunity to clean quite a bit too. Man when a CV boot goes, grease gets everywhere - sort of like sand in your bathing suit when at the beach.
So back together it went and new WMW ignition module, plug wires and plugs were installed.
Fairly easy job if you follow ModMini's advice. My install wasn't flawless, but still went pretty well. If I had to do it again, it'd be faster and less mistakes.
Mini GP Wing was ordered. Again, the wing will be the July install. Well, if the M7 braces arrive, they'll go on the car too.
It's been a couple of days since the pulley install and I thought I'd post my butt dyno results.
First, I personally don't feel anything different with the WMW front strut bar and tower defenders installed. The car still handles great but is it different with the front strut tower brace installed? Not really. IMHO, what I do feel is a sense of relief that the strut towers are better protected. That alone is work the price of admission. I also don't think that I'd only install the strut tower defenders and not the cross brace - it does tie things together more and I'm sure as the car ages, it'll keep it tighter - so more protection than anything? Either way, I'm glad it's installed.
When I installed the new plugs, wires and ignition module, I noticed that two of the ignition module terminals were corroded and rusty. Does the ignition module and wires add HP - unlikely, so more of a maintenance item that just needed to be replaced.
With the stock pulley, the car had power. It also took a bit for the supercharger whine to be engaged. With the 15% pulley, the car is definitely a bit faster and the supercharger whine is engaged much earlier (at lower RPM). I think with the 15%, the engine just makes more power everywhere. Once I get the exhaust done I'll get it tuned and we'll see what the dyno says. Right now, I think it is brakes time - maybe August will have a R56 brake upgrade landing at my door.
Fun thread. Glad to see another, "while I'm in there" personality. Love tinkering on these cars just wish they weren't packaged so tightly. Sometimes it feels like working on a jigsaw puzzle
M7 rear brace, GP intercooler, rear wing choices and more
It's been a minute since I've posted - thank you 4th of July and a week on the lake!
Anyway, I ordered and installed both a Mini GP1 intercooler and 380cc injectors. I also ordered a black DDM GP intercooler cover/diverter but it hasn't arrived yet. At the time of the install, I reset all of the driving adaptations to give the ECU a fresh start on learning how I drive. I can feel the HP increase of 380cc injectors throughout the rev range and Otto accelerates far more quickly than it did previously. Yes, the computer "learned" the new injectors after I reset the adaptations. It did run a bit rough for the couple of miles - then smoothed out great. Idles fine now too.
I also received and installed the M7 rear brace. The cool part is that quite a few squeaks and creaks went away with the WMW front strut brace. All of them have gone away with the installation of the M7. Otto really drives like a new (old) car. I do like that it is triangulated in the rear design with 3 hard attachment points instead of the versions that only attach behind the seats. The M7 rear under brace has yet to arrive and don't have an ETA yet.
As for the rear GP wing that I wanted to install. Oranje changed their configuration on the carbon fiber wings they sell online. Many options are now no longer available - plain white (my top color) isn't available, nor are the red wing adjusters.
So, I went a different route. I found a guy in Germany that makes his own parts - and the parts are TUV approved. That means they aren't junk and are actually very good quality. He was a pleasure to work with and the Mini GP wing is on its way. Currently it's leaving NYC after import inspection and should be here next week.
I also placed a rather large WMW order the other day. New R56 brake kit (Akibono ceramic pads (Euro spec pads), rotors, calipers and braided SS lines) for the front, Akibono pads, new rotors and SS lines for the rear. Grooved for the fronts and plain faces for the rear. I went with Akibono pads for now and will look at higher performance pads in the future. I'm still researching pads and didn't want to wait to order all the parts. Akibono's are better than stock and may not do so well on the track, but it'll get me through for a bit. Also in the order is the Milltek SS exhaust system and a new 2% overdrive ATI crank dampener and new crank bolts and seal.
I plan on doing all the work myself, so I ordered some Motul 600 brake fluid, EZ bleeders from Pelican. I also ordered red caliper paint for the existing rear brakes, as well as a brake bleeding kit both from Amazon. At the same time as the paint and the bleeder kit I ordered a PDR (painless dent repair) kit, so I'll be getting my feet wet there too.
I'll be sure take photos of the exhaust, brake and wing install in the next post. Brakes and exhaust may be here this weekend, so they'll live in the garage for a week or so because I won't have time to work on Otto this weekend.
Right now I'm saving for a Quaife LSD. That's a bit of work that I will farm out to Todd. I figure the LSD and install will be abut $3k or so when done. I want the LSD install done right and will pay the piper once the LSD is in hand.
Finally, I ordered a CF LEAP Omicron clone (larger intake hood scoop) from evilBay. Worst case I've blown a bit of cash and I'll order an actual CF LEAP unit. But at the price, it'll either be a good learning experience and work fine, or it won't.
Anyway, that's it for now.
Cheers,
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Jul 11, 2025 at 03:57 PM.
The top two points have you remove the rear upper seat holding brackets (two bolts each side and reassemble with the M7 plates. Note it does move the top of the rear seats ~1/2" forward (towards the front seats).
The bottom bracket has three holes - the middle hole is a re-used from a central bolt for the rear seats. Two additional self tapping bolts are screwed in on either side of the middle bolt. I sliced my carpet about 1.5" in order to make it look right.
Slide the end keepers of each shaft into the brackets and tighten loosely with the included bolts. Once everything is connected, tighten up the bolts . Top bar is brought up tight, then the two bottom bars are tightened. Wash rinse repeat until they're rotated tight. Final tighten all the bolts.
Install took ,me longer to get the tools together then to actually do the install itself. M7 says 30 minutes and total for me was ~15 or so total.
BTW, Mini GP wing should be here this week. I wish USPS had better tracking, but it should be in Castle Rock tomorrow.
Way Motor Works deliveries have been made - all except the Milltek exhaust have arrived. Not really an ETA yet either.
Originally I wanted to install the exhaust first, but it looks like the wing, brakes, then exhaust - then tune.
Amazon deliveries made it here too - Motul 600 brake fluid and pressure brake bleeder system. Pelican delivery on the EZ bleeders made it here too.
Tomorrow, I'll start organizing parts and jacking up Otto and putting him on jack stands. Wheels can come off and I can get started. Because the red brake caliper paint from Amazon arrived, I'll need to remove the rears and paint, let sit for a couple of days for the paint to cure. Then it'll be the fronts.
If the rear wing arrives tomorrow, I probably install it before getting Otto up on jack stands.
Carbon scoop arrived - great condition, fits well, looks great!
Here are some photos from different angles. Finish is flawless, though I didn't wipe it well prior to the photos.
Now the bad news, 8 days in transit from Aurora (CO) to Castle Rock (CO). Flipping USPS. Anyway, the GP wing isn't here yet.
Turns out I need to replace the clutch slave cylinder too. So picking that up today, Otto is up on jack stands with the tires/rims off and the brakes are about ready to be removed. Rears totally look like crap, so the cleaning starts today.
Clutch Slave Cylinder and ATI Super Damper install
Well, of the best laid plans of mice and men...
It turns out that as I prepped for the brake install, I realized that my daughter had left in my truck. She flew into town for her Ultra Marathon (50 Km run) and borrowed my truck while she is in town - and she left our house to visit high school and college friends only to return today. (And) It seems that most of the tools I needed for the brake install were in my tool bag in the truck. So, no brakes. Yet.
I did have time to replace the clutch slave cylinder. Twice. Mod Mini has a great video on replacing and bleeding the clutch slave cylinder. He used plumbers bands and two long screws/nuts/washers to make a jig to compress the cylinder when installing and bleeding the cylinder. I fab'd up a similar jig, but hillbilly style and it worked great. The only problem that I had was when I went to release my jig. Seems it really isn't advisable to have the system under ~15 pounds of pressure when you release the jig. Brake fluid squirted everywhere - and one cylinder seal is now toast. So off I went to O'Reilly's for another one - had to drive ~40 miles to get it (thank you Paul, my '13 Mini that just continues to run flawlessly!). Anyway, second time around the installation went fine. I'll try to re-bleed the cylinder again to see if there are any additional bubbles in the the cylinder- and get just a bit more clutch pressure in there too. Anyway, did the install Saturday and on Sunday, we put some miles on the car. Much easier to get into first gear, so definitely needed to replace the clutch slave cylinder.
Since I didn't know the age of the harmonic balancer, I had already planned on replacing it. So today (Monday) I replaced the old harmonic balancer (rubber mounted version) with the ATI Super Damper 2% overdrive version. Install was super simple - no problems or anything. I did also order a new crank seal, but behind the harmonic balancer was actually clean as a whistle, so I didn't bother - and I have a spare, should I ever need to install another.
Below is a pic of the old damper after removal and the ATI installed. Did a quick drive to check everything, and all is good.
Is it smoother, seems to be a bit smoother at idle, so yes. Are there more horses? Maybe. Heck, I can't tell. 🤣 But I do think it was a good move to change it, less to worry about in the future.
As for the GP wing, I'm still waiting for delivery - with nothing but blank stares from the USPS when I asked. I also don't have an ETA from WMW on the exhaust, nor DDM on the GP intercooler cover/diverter.
So, the daughter arrived back home this afternoon. I'll get the tools out of the truck and go back to working on changing out the brakes. I'm thinking for now to only change the pads, rotors and lines in the rear, I'll paint the calipers red later when things settle down a bit. Front brakes continue to be a full swap for R56 brakes - lines, calipers, disks and pads.
Should have a bit of time this week to get it all done. Next weekend is the daughter's race around Pike's Peak and family photos on Sunday. so if I'm going to get it done anytime soon, I need to make time for the install this week and besides, I'd really like to get it all done.
Maybe if I get it done this week, all of my outstanding parts will arrive next week! Ha! The power of positive thinking...
Cheers,
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Jul 22, 2025 at 06:42 AM.
Progress! The WMW folks were super helpful in getting the exhaust expedited from their shipper. Should be here in a few days. I cannot recommend Way Motor Works enough. They've been super helpful and very responsive to everything. It's hard to find businesses that treat their customers well - very well in this case. Send some business their way if you're buying Mini parts or accessories.
More good news, I connected with @adriancl , already ordered the cable and the Quickflash module. If you want to work with Adrian, here's the Quickflash Module you'll need. EMS2000 and here's the cable you'll need
Once both arrive, and because I do everything on a Mac with Parallels, I'll need to figure out if Parallels will work or I'll need to cobble together a Window laptop to do the work.
And, I've been a bit lazy yesterday and today - no brake work yet, though I did unpack everything in the garage. Maybe tomorrow.
The bad news, my Mini GP wing from Germany may be lost. I've submitted a Lost Package Request with the USPS. Here's hoping, but it may be wishful thinking...
Just thinking here, but Alex and I are traveling to Germany in August to visit family. Methinks, it might be possible to physically pick it up and fly home with the wing. Might be a few hours drive, but definitely worth it if USPS fumbles the ball and cannot locate my wing. At least I have options!
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Jul 24, 2025 at 07:17 AM.
Milltek Exhaust Install - and more on the brakes, lights, clutch and LSD
Received the new resonated Milltek exhaust today. Since I knew it was arriving Friday and Otto was already on jack stands, I sprayed WD-40 on the exhaust bolts on Wednesday, and removed the old exhaust on Thursday.
Everything arrived in pristine condition and everything on the manifest was actually in the box - and nothing extra. The box was packed well so nothing would bang against each other as it traveled FedEx. Thanks again WMW for finding a solution to the delay - and covering the expedited shipping!
Since Otto is still on jack stands awaiting the brakes (I need a tool that arrives on Sunday), I decided to proceed. Yes, I "could" have worked on parts of the brakes, but I really can't install anything until this Sunday.
Since the old exhaust was already removed, the total install time was easily less than an hour. Everything bolted right up too.
Here's the handiwork.
Last in, but first shown. Almost too pretty to hide. Two different sets of rear section hangers. You'll only use one set and have one set left over. Yes, the pipe does sweep down on the resonator section. It won't fit otherwise. (Pic is without the clamp - yes it was installed!) When you install, be sure the welded on labels are facing down. Rear outside hanger Rear inside hanger Exhaust tips mounted for easy change should I desire. Looks good!
Oh, I bought a headlight restoration kit from Amazon that arrives on Sunday. Thought I'd tape up Otto's headlights to do that on Sunday too. I couldn't bring myself to buy new housings yet, so going to try this first. If it works, I'll have saved some cash. Kit was less than $20 on Amazon. Here's the
Best case scenario, I get more light and they last a few more years. worst case I blew $20.
Ordered the Giken LSD and the Giken twin plate clutch from WMW last night. Called around for labor rates to install and the clutch runs ~$2400, with the LSD another $400 to $600. Uggg.
Made the appointment for August 11th with a pickup on August 13th (earlier if they are finished early), Plenty of time for the parts to get here, me finish the brakes and the headlights. If the brakes get done this weekend (or mostly done), @adriancl is tee'd up to do the tune next week.
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Aug 11, 2025 at 03:34 PM.
Looking very good! I wish I bought the Miltec exhaust last year, instead of an oem replacement.
About the headlights, it will work for a year. I have done this job 4 times now, 1 kit and 3 times with a 2k clear coat spray the only thing that works good is Spraymaxx 2 in 1 headlight clear coat. Other 2ks will react with the plastic lens and make spiderweb cracks.
This one I did last week:
Sand down using 600grid and spray 2 light and 1 heavy coat.
As for the LSD I believe this is a job you can do yourself, judging by this thread. It it just opening the bell housing and swap the diff and reseal it.
@LukasH ~ Thanks for the heads up on the headlight kit. So far I’ve only cleaned and sanded them. Since I haven’t put on the ceramic coat yet, I’ll give the Spraymaxx kit a go first.
(Bad me), I started up the mini while on Jack stand to give the Milltek exhaust a listen at idle and light revs only. Deeper than stock and just a tad louder, so I’m really pleased. Looking forward to getting Otto back on the street.
Regarding the LSD, you’re absolutely correct that I “could” install it myself and I think so too. The bad news is I’ve never replaced a clutch and I’m outsourcing that install, so the LSD sort of becomes an afterthought after the clutch. Also, I’m sort of running out of time to get everything done before August 8th as that is when I’ll drop off the car for the clutch. I’m still in the brakes phase and have only just removed the rears for paint.
Saturday was my daughter’s ultra marathon and she flies back to Austin today. Also today, I’m flying to Florida for a vendor meeting and won’t be back until late Wednesday. The plan is to finish the brakes on Thursday, then finish the headlights on Saturday.
i have more travel early next week, I’m flying little airplanes for my pilot recertification on the 7th, car goes in for the clutch on the 8th, then we leave for Germany on the 15th h for two weeks). Right now time isn’t my friend.
The brakes are finally done - well, I want to bleed them again after they cool offs, so maybe 95% done. While I'm at it, I'll bleed the clutch slave cylinder too.
I think they look pretty darn good for a first time complete retrofit of brakes for me.
Here they are installed:
And here they are with wheels:
Rear painted caliper Front R56 Powder Coated caliper
I received the DDM GP1 Intercooler Cover, so I installed that too.
And, received/installed the UltraGauge, so that went in as well. Still awaiting the tach pod mount from the UK, but that should be here next week. I'm still figuring out the UltraGauge though.
And yes, I'm still trying to figure out exactly what gauges I want and where. I was looking to have all the vitals - especially oil pressure and oil temp. They may be in there, but I haven't found them yet...
I'll reach out to @adriancl to start the tune process on Monday. This weekend has me slammed again with family obligations. Fingers crossed for a tune next week.
Headlights remain an open item. I did sand them with the 2000 and 3000 grit pads that come in the ceramic kit. Now I need to decide whether I'm going to try the ceramic treatment first or use the Spraymaxx that should be here late on Sunday.
Giken LSD and twin plate clutch have been received from WMW. Dropping the car off on either the 8th or the 11th. If work has me time compressed, I'll do it on the 8th, if not, it'll be the 11th. Should have it back by the 13th - right before our Germany trip for two weeks. Because I'm trying to get a bunch of open work items done, the shop will install the LSD and the new bearings while the transmission is out of the car. I'm hoping it won't be much of an adder onto the clutch labor since it's pretty easy to do. We'll see.
Rear wing remains lost with USPS. Need to decide if I'll hand carry it back from Germany or not. Turns out the seller/manufacturer is ~2.5 hours away from Frankfurt/Aschaffenburg area where Alex's Mom lives (and where we'll be staying). I'll likely make the decision while there.
Overall, Otto is coming along!
After the LSD/clutch, next are two Schroth (SP?) racing harnesses and a helmet. Though I did order magnetic number plates which should be here before the Germany trip. And I'll schedule the car to be completely detailed/cleaned inside and out, and I'll get the upholstery cleaned too (it's bad!). That way, I can dirty up the car all I want at the track (and on the street) and I can say that I dirty'd it up myself.
Since we get back around September 1st (or so), I think my next major investment will be in a driving/track class with an instructor at High Plains Raceway. I really need to learn the car more track days are it. I've found several companies have single day and multi-day track day classes, plus the September timing works before our Mexico trip. Then maybe some autocross and lap days before end of year and the snow starts flying.
For now, I have a break to work a bit until the brakes cool off from my test drive and I re-bleed everything. Bug or windshield you ask? Totally the windshield today.
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Jul 31, 2025 at 03:30 PM.
