Too funny that you had to search for it. After reinstalling everything again - and really taking my time, I have the following codes: 1109, 1242, 300, 1689, 222. 123, 1229 and 5E19. Sheesh.

Used the starting fluid trick to get closer to where the vacuum leak is. Wow, I've learned so very much over the past week or so.

All my throttle, 2/3'd torque value, vacuum, etc. problems are not the throttle body, nor the BPV, not even the MAP or T-Map sensor.

It is/was (or appears to be) my supercharger charge pipe. I can see that the ear that holds the charge pipe onto the supercharger gave way and the charge pipe has disconnected slightly.

Right now I'm in the middle of tearing everything apart. Replacement charge pipe should be here the middle of the next week, so I'll tear it apart now - wait for the part - then reinstall everything.

We'll see how everything shapes up over the next week or so.

John

 

Good luck with the fix!

Those M45 charge pipes are a woefully flimsy, finicky, and unreliable design.

Harrop TVS900 uses this heckin' chonker:


Smoothed out the inside for better flow. Was as rough inside as out!


It's getting TimeSerts pre-emptively installed in the throttle body flange, then, off to the powder coat guy to match my intercooler horns....


I also have a manifold log waiting on me getting the extra tap for the boost/vac gauge done, then more powder coat to match....

 

Wow - that is a heck of a SC! Looks awesome - and the charge pipe is beefy.

I looked at the TPE Precision products but can't swing the cash at the moment. The charge pipe and the intake are on the list though.

FWIW, here they are: TPE Precision R53

I don't think I'll do a BVH anytime soon and as long as the Eaton SC runs well, unlikely for a Harrop kit either. Time will tell though and it'll depend on how much I race this year.

Often so, but still so true "The road to more power is strewn with cash" and I have other projects going. I've ticked off a couple of the projects (like my new drum coffee roaster), but the camper AC, the buildout of the bathroom in the basement (last item on the basement remodel) and the upcoming (potential) house move take priority.

The current plan is to get the MCS running well before I add anything more. Though I do have a 60mm TB ready to go on from WMW, the plan is stay with the stock TB until I get add the TPE Precision charge pipe and intake manifold when finances allow. Maybe even a Harrop and BVH down the road.

However, the $ choice between Harrop and TPE parts isn't as bad as I thought. At ~$3k for the TPE parts and ~$4.1k for the Harrop kit, it makes me wonder...

John

 

Why not both? You don't need *two* kidneys, right? :D

 

So here is the offending charge pipe. There should be an extension on the charge pipe for a bolt. Mine is broken.



When putting it back together, be sure to pull the green gasket from the charge pipe and install onto the SC, then press on the charge pipe and bolt it up. If you try to put the gasket in the charge pipe and then on the SC, it's a no go. The edge of the green gasket against the SC is plastic hard, the edge/side that goes on the charge pipe is sort of squishy and it will attach quickly.


I didn't have longer bolts for the service mode. I had a Home Depot tote that I turned upside down. When the car is on jack stands, the radiator only needs to be lifted ~1/4" (at my jack stand height) and it sits on the tote without putting any stress on the radiator hoses.


Lastly, I went on Amazon and bought one of these (down below). Getting to the bolt on the charge pipe is crazy tight without removing the radiator. Using this tool made it cake and pie (piece of cake / easy as pie.



BTW, two of my inner fender liner (plastic) attachment screws broke during disassembly. Amazon had them in stock and they'll be here tomorrow morning along with the impact ready offset extension wrench.

FWIW, I haven't attached the new charge pipe as it arrives tomorrow. Once I put everything together, I'll start the car to see if all the vacuum issues are gone. If the vacuum leaks go away after the charge pipe reinstall, the car goes back together. If they don't go away, the car is already apart to start figuring out where the other leak/s are. I already purchased the vacuum line that goes to the BPV, so that'll go in too along with new plugs (all purchased from WMW).

Hope this all helps!

Cheers,

John

 

That tool looks really useful. The crate, too.

Given the missing/broken tab on the pipe, a replacement is a solid idea. At that point, it's down to the difference in price between a new factory pipe and the TPE one. I have chosen upgraded parts nearly every time in that sort of repair scenario. Race car parts on the cheap, because a big part of cost is ameliorated by the repair cost with stock parts....

Sometimes, the race car part ends up being le$$ expen$ive than $tock Cooper $ part$....

 

Yep, I get it - that's normally my course of action too - lots of parts replaced and where I could, I upgraded.

The stock part is $499 new, used was $280.

TPE part is $500 and 2-3 weeks for delivery. I reeeeaaallly wish I could have waited for the TPE part.

Given how (relatively) easy it was to put the car into service mode and remove the charge pipe, I'll probably replace the charge pipe with the TPE part when I buy the TPE intake.

Regardless both are on my upgrade list and I'll probably do both when funds allow.

John

 

I've had my eye on their intake for a while, but want to get the BVH and intake at the same time, so I don't have to drive around with the ported intake on a stock head waiting for BVH money.... I opted to get the 3D printed cone filter lid for stock airbox made by a friend who needed a bit of work to earn some $$$ to get on his feet in his new apartment. Still waiting for delivery. For what I gave him, I could have gotten the TPE unit. I am getting to the point where I would rather help a complete stranger that I am likely never to see again than help someone I know....