R50/53 R53 Low Compression, Low HP but Good Boost Pressure. HELP.
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From: Manchester
R53 Low Compression, Low HP but Good Boost Pressure. HELP.
Today I took my R53 to the tuning shop for a custom map.
R53 Spec:
• ported & polished Cylinder
• 550cc injectors
• ph4 Newman cam
• 17% pulley
• bigger intercooler
• full milltek manifold & exhaust decat
• Denso colder spark plugs
onto of these prior to today, 0 miles ago it’s had:
• new timing chain kit
• new starter motor
• full service
• new snoot boots
• cylinder head gasket
• oil sump gasket
• rocker cover gasket
• auxiliary belt
• new crank case, oil pump seal, water pump seal, super charger seal/service.
•New exhaust and intake manifold gasket.
it is running good boost the shop says ‘no boost leak’ however the car is running about 30-50hp less than they expected. “However it runs very smooth”.
They’ve done a smoke leak test and a compression test, results were:
“Smoke test shown a leak at the PCV, and a small leak at the bypass and intercooler boots as well as in supercharger inlet. The boots are very common and such a small leak doesn't normally cause the larger issue we have. I've reseated the PCV pipe and that has stopped leaking. The inlet is a pain, even with a new seal these can leak, in the past we've used a sealant as well as the gasket.”
”Compression test shown 130/130/145/140 as 1/2/3/4. Which is on the low side, a good healthy one should be 150/170 all across. Both the low compression and HP loss might still point towards a timing issue.”
Apologies for the long post just want you to have the most informed guess at my potential problem.
All ideas that could fix this welcome! And thank you in advance for your help!
NathanR53
R53 Spec:
• ported & polished Cylinder
• 550cc injectors
• ph4 Newman cam
• 17% pulley
• bigger intercooler
• full milltek manifold & exhaust decat
• Denso colder spark plugs
onto of these prior to today, 0 miles ago it’s had:
• new timing chain kit
• new starter motor
• full service
• new snoot boots
• cylinder head gasket
• oil sump gasket
• rocker cover gasket
• auxiliary belt
• new crank case, oil pump seal, water pump seal, super charger seal/service.
•New exhaust and intake manifold gasket.
it is running good boost the shop says ‘no boost leak’ however the car is running about 30-50hp less than they expected. “However it runs very smooth”.
They’ve done a smoke leak test and a compression test, results were:
“Smoke test shown a leak at the PCV, and a small leak at the bypass and intercooler boots as well as in supercharger inlet. The boots are very common and such a small leak doesn't normally cause the larger issue we have. I've reseated the PCV pipe and that has stopped leaking. The inlet is a pain, even with a new seal these can leak, in the past we've used a sealant as well as the gasket.”
”Compression test shown 130/130/145/140 as 1/2/3/4. Which is on the low side, a good healthy one should be 150/170 all across. Both the low compression and HP loss might still point towards a timing issue.”
Apologies for the long post just want you to have the most informed guess at my potential problem.
All ideas that could fix this welcome! And thank you in advance for your help!
NathanR53
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From: DFW, TX
What is your max measured boost? 30-50hp is HUGE on a 1.6L. What are their and your horsepower expectations from this build? Given your mods and the small displacement of this motor I would have you at 250hp max which is ~90hp over stock.
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Yep - let's see the dyno plot please.
I ran Gollum I back in the day - a healthy STX Works R53. At 59k miles when the car was in peak form (~205 hp) I had Mini of Peabody run a compression test. It came back 150, 145, 145, 145. That same motor had at various times returned higher numbers - later in it's life!
I've noticed very significant differences in compression test results depending on who does the test, and when. When I was doing my own work I always did wet and dry, which seems not to be ubiquitous for some reason.
Consequently I pay close attention to inequality across cylinders, but not so much to the absolute numbers if they're at least reasonable.
But my initial reaction to your tale is just to want to determine the extent of the problem by looking at the data.
Cheers,
Charlie
I ran Gollum I back in the day - a healthy STX Works R53. At 59k miles when the car was in peak form (~205 hp) I had Mini of Peabody run a compression test. It came back 150, 145, 145, 145. That same motor had at various times returned higher numbers - later in it's life!
I've noticed very significant differences in compression test results depending on who does the test, and when. When I was doing my own work I always did wet and dry, which seems not to be ubiquitous for some reason.
Consequently I pay close attention to inequality across cylinders, but not so much to the absolute numbers if they're at least reasonable.
But my initial reaction to your tale is just to want to determine the extent of the problem by looking at the data.
Cheers,
Charlie
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From: Manchester
Dyno printout.
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From: Manchester
Yep - let's see the dyno plot please.
I ran Gollum I back in the day - a healthy STX Works R53. At 59k miles when the car was in peak form (~205 hp) I had Mini of Peabody run a compression test. It came back 150, 145, 145, 145. That same motor had at various times returned higher numbers - later in it's life!
I've noticed very significant differences in compression test results depending on who does the test, and when. When I was doing my own work I always did wet and dry, which seems not to be ubiquitous for some reason.
Consequently I pay close attention to inequality across cylinders, but not so much to the absolute numbers if they're at least reasonable.
But my initial reaction to your tale is just to want to determine the extent of the problem by looking at the data.
Cheers,
Charlie
I ran Gollum I back in the day - a healthy STX Works R53. At 59k miles when the car was in peak form (~205 hp) I had Mini of Peabody run a compression test. It came back 150, 145, 145, 145. That same motor had at various times returned higher numbers - later in it's life!
I've noticed very significant differences in compression test results depending on who does the test, and when. When I was doing my own work I always did wet and dry, which seems not to be ubiquitous for some reason.
Consequently I pay close attention to inequality across cylinders, but not so much to the absolute numbers if they're at least reasonable.
But my initial reaction to your tale is just to want to determine the extent of the problem by looking at the data.
Cheers,
Charlie
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Arnold, MO.
With those compression numbers, did you try and check them with a different compression tester?
Because as you stated, a healthy, well sealed engine will range from 155-165 depending on whether it's still warm or not.
While the loss may be timing related, it may also be an unwanted byproduct of that Cam as well. (I'd do a little research on that, before I started tearing into things)
But....
Those HP numbers aren't actually that far off, depending in the type of Dyno.
If I'm reading your first post correct, you've basically got, exhaust, cam and pulley (the injectors are only there for safety with those mods, and pump gas)
Porting and Polishing the Head may give you a little better flow, but without oversized valves, you're still choking the engines capability to make the kind of power you're looking for.
Plus the combination of that Cam and the larger intercooler may be losing you a little boost with the M45 S/C, due to any extra volume of air that has to be moved.
Honestly, you probably won't see much more than an honest 215-220 WHP without a BVH, and 240-245 with one, without an induction change and on pump gas.
You do realise, that depending on which Dyno that is, you are actually seeing +45-50 WHP over a stock 210 JCW car.
Because as you stated, a healthy, well sealed engine will range from 155-165 depending on whether it's still warm or not.
While the loss may be timing related, it may also be an unwanted byproduct of that Cam as well. (I'd do a little research on that, before I started tearing into things)
But....
Those HP numbers aren't actually that far off, depending in the type of Dyno.
If I'm reading your first post correct, you've basically got, exhaust, cam and pulley (the injectors are only there for safety with those mods, and pump gas)
Porting and Polishing the Head may give you a little better flow, but without oversized valves, you're still choking the engines capability to make the kind of power you're looking for.
Plus the combination of that Cam and the larger intercooler may be losing you a little boost with the M45 S/C, due to any extra volume of air that has to be moved.
Honestly, you probably won't see much more than an honest 215-220 WHP without a BVH, and 240-245 with one, without an induction change and on pump gas.
You do realise, that depending on which Dyno that is, you are actually seeing +45-50 WHP over a stock 210 JCW car.
Last edited by BlwnAway; Feb 21, 2025 at 11:55 PM.
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From: Manchester
Reply
With those compression numbers, did you try and check them with a different compression tester?
Because as you stated, a healthy, well sealed engine will range from 155-165 depending on whether it's still warm or not.
While the loss may be timing related, it may also be an unwanted byproduct of that Cam as well. (I'd do a little research on that, before I started tearing into things)
But....
Those HP numbers aren't actually that far off, depending in the type of Dyno.
If I'm reading your first post correct, you've basically got, exhaust, cam and pulley (the injectors are only there for safety with those mods, and pump gas)
Porting and Polishing the Head may give you a little better flow, but without oversized valves, you're still choking the engines capability to make the kind of power you're looking for.
Plus the combination of that Cam and the larger intercooler may be losing you a little boost with the M45 S/C, due to any extra volume of air that has to be moved.
Honestly, you probably won't see much more than an honest 215-220 WHP without a BVH, and 240-245 with one, without an induction change and on pump gas.
You do realise, that depending on which Dyno that is, you are actually seeing +45-50 WHP over a stock 210 JCW car.
Because as you stated, a healthy, well sealed engine will range from 155-165 depending on whether it's still warm or not.
While the loss may be timing related, it may also be an unwanted byproduct of that Cam as well. (I'd do a little research on that, before I started tearing into things)
But....
Those HP numbers aren't actually that far off, depending in the type of Dyno.
If I'm reading your first post correct, you've basically got, exhaust, cam and pulley (the injectors are only there for safety with those mods, and pump gas)
Porting and Polishing the Head may give you a little better flow, but without oversized valves, you're still choking the engines capability to make the kind of power you're looking for.
Plus the combination of that Cam and the larger intercooler may be losing you a little boost with the M45 S/C, due to any extra volume of air that has to be moved.
Honestly, you probably won't see much more than an honest 215-220 WHP without a BVH, and 240-245 with one, without an induction change and on pump gas.
You do realise, that depending on which Dyno that is, you are actually seeing +45-50 WHP over a stock 210 JCW car.
It was mapped on 99 fuel, haven’t looked into any other injection sources yet, probably won’t depending on cost.
I would have thought the engine was warm when the garage did the tests due to it being on the dyno that day, but I wouldn’t be able to say for sure.
I’ve looked up the cam info on Newmans site but as far as compression and what not I’m clueless.
I don’t know what type of dyno it was their website says it is a V-Tech 4x4 dynometer (state of the art).
If there is 15psi difference alone in the cylinders on their gauge hot or cold, it seems strange to me that it couldn’t be an issue as the figures should be relatively consistent to each other?
The remap place said boost figures were good and as expected.
What induction changes would you recommend, and I presume you’re talking about meth. I’ve never done it but what figures would I be looking at do you think?
Last edited by NATHANR53; Feb 22, 2025 at 03:42 AM. Reason: More info
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From: DFW, TX
Your dyno is showing ~215hp at the wheel which is ~247hp at the crank. To get much better than that you would need (as BlwnAway says) much better breathing that equates to much more cash spent and then your gains would only be minimal. Your engine's small displacement will carry you only so far.
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From: Manchester
Your dyno is showing ~215hp at the wheel which is ~247hp at the crank. To get much better than that you would need (as BlwnAway says) much better breathing that equates to much more cash spent and then your gains would only be minimal. Your engine's small displacement will carry you only so far.
BlwnAway said 240-250WHP with a BVH which would go with what the dyno guys were saying. That’s what I’m trying to understand alongside the top end ticking they were hearing and the low compression, they said it could of been the timing chain rattling or I thought it could be the rocker arm dampeners either seized or not gapped properly. Not sure what the gap is supposed to be I can’t find manufacturer specs for this. But I could quite easily check chain tension by just taking the rocker cover off if it’s not that then checking the rocker arms but my main wonder was what else could it be? Apparently it gets louder and more pronounced when it’s running at higher revs.
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From: Arnold, MO.
Thank you for your comment, Apologies yes it does have BVH, springs, intercooler and cold air intake box mod.
It was mapped on 99 fuel, haven’t looked into any other injection sources yet, probably won’t depending on cost.
I would have thought the engine was warm when the garage did the tests due to it being on the dyno that day, but I wouldn’t be able to say for sure.
I’ve looked up the cam info on Newmans site but as far as compression and what not I’m clueless.
I don’t know what type of dyno it was their website says it is a V-Tech 4x4 dynometer (state of the art).
If there is 15psi difference alone in the cylinders on their gauge hot or cold, it seems strange to me that it couldn’t be an issue as the figures should be relatively consistent to each other?
The remap place said boost figures were good and as expected.
What induction changes would you recommend, and I presume you’re talking about meth. I’ve never done it but what figures would I be looking at do you think?
It was mapped on 99 fuel, haven’t looked into any other injection sources yet, probably won’t depending on cost.
I would have thought the engine was warm when the garage did the tests due to it being on the dyno that day, but I wouldn’t be able to say for sure.
I’ve looked up the cam info on Newmans site but as far as compression and what not I’m clueless.
I don’t know what type of dyno it was their website says it is a V-Tech 4x4 dynometer (state of the art).
If there is 15psi difference alone in the cylinders on their gauge hot or cold, it seems strange to me that it couldn’t be an issue as the figures should be relatively consistent to each other?
The remap place said boost figures were good and as expected.
What induction changes would you recommend, and I presume you’re talking about meth. I’ve never done it but what figures would I be looking at do you think?
By induction change I meant, upgrade in S/C or turbo swap.
While W/M could be beneficial, without real confirmation that everything else is as it should be, you'd just be adding another possible problem to the mix.
And your right, if one cylinder were considerably more than another, at least it would point you somewhere. That being said, if it were me, I'd do a cylinder to cylinder leak down test comparison, it should help to confirm or deny piston ring blow-by.
As far as a timing issue, absolutely could cause this, that's why I mentioned the Cam, I don't know it's specs. And if it possibly could have a slight bit of overlap or simply not allowing the valves to close properly. That being said, with all the Head work that was done, was the Head Decked? (Shaved to make it flat) Under normal circumstances, this will loosen the chain just slightly, and not really be much of an issue do to the tensioner being able to take up the slack. But a very aggressive Cam can change this, esp at RPM.
With that ticking noise you're experiencing, the first thing I'd do (before I pulled the timing cover) is replace the tensioner and add a tensioner spacer, this should take up any slack that could be there. Won't have any negatives if this doesn't fix the issue.
Good Luck, chasing gremlins is extremely frustrating after time and money has been spent.
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Joined: Jul 2018
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From: DFW, TX
Timing chain rattle (chain slap against the guides) is quite a bit louder than a "ticking" so that's probably not what they're hearing. If it was me I would (Step 1) first check the hydraulic damper (black rod) on the belt tensioner (unless you've replaced it). Over time the bushings at both ends can dry out, crack and fall out allowing the rod the vibrate against the attachment bolts at either end. Access is easy through the passenger-side wheel well once the liner is removed. If that's not it, then (Step 2) I would remove the serpentine belt, start it and either identify or eliminate the accessories/pulleys, etc. Both the steps above won't cost you anything but time if nothing is replaced. If that fails then you're probably correct that it's drivetrain noise and you're in for additional cash outlay for gaskets, parts, etc.
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From: Manchester
Thanks for the additional info, your concerns make more sense now.
By induction change I meant, upgrade in S/C or turbo swap.
While W/M could be beneficial, without real confirmation that everything else is as it should be, you'd just be adding another possible problem to the mix.
And your right, if one cylinder were considerably more than another, at least it would point you somewhere. That being said, if it were me, I'd do a cylinder to cylinder leak down test comparison, it should help to confirm or deny piston ring blow-by.
As far as a timing issue, absolutely could cause this, that's why I mentioned the Cam, I don't know it's specs. And if it possibly could have a slight bit of overlap or simply not allowing the valves to close properly. That being said, with all the Head work that was done, was the Head Decked? (Shaved to make it flat) Under normal circumstances, this will loosen the chain just slightly, and not really be much of an issue do to the tensioner being able to take up the slack. But a very aggressive Cam can change this, esp at RPM.
With that ticking noise you're experiencing, the first thing I'd do (before I pulled the timing cover) is replace the tensioner and add a tensioner spacer, this should take up any slack that could be there. Won't have any negatives if this doesn't fix the issue.
Good Luck, chasing gremlins is extremely frustrating after time and money has been spent.
By induction change I meant, upgrade in S/C or turbo swap.
While W/M could be beneficial, without real confirmation that everything else is as it should be, you'd just be adding another possible problem to the mix.
And your right, if one cylinder were considerably more than another, at least it would point you somewhere. That being said, if it were me, I'd do a cylinder to cylinder leak down test comparison, it should help to confirm or deny piston ring blow-by.
As far as a timing issue, absolutely could cause this, that's why I mentioned the Cam, I don't know it's specs. And if it possibly could have a slight bit of overlap or simply not allowing the valves to close properly. That being said, with all the Head work that was done, was the Head Decked? (Shaved to make it flat) Under normal circumstances, this will loosen the chain just slightly, and not really be much of an issue do to the tensioner being able to take up the slack. But a very aggressive Cam can change this, esp at RPM.
With that ticking noise you're experiencing, the first thing I'd do (before I pulled the timing cover) is replace the tensioner and add a tensioner spacer, this should take up any slack that could be there. Won't have any negatives if this doesn't fix the issue.
Good Luck, chasing gremlins is extremely frustrating after time and money has been spent.
The tick is also apparent at idle just even more pronounced at rpm apparently. I’ve seen that bigger cams can hit the spark plug cylinder and they need tapping abit to give clearance. (Only rocker cover off to see if it is touching while manually cranking it)
The tensioner was new when I did the timing chain, was a full kit. I could put a spacer in there, any suggestions on thickness not to go past? I know it’s spring loaded but would think too much tension could cause weak points on the chain. But I could get varying size washers and work up n try running after each adjustment. (Not a costly fix option)
I can send a link to the manufacturers site n a picture of the specs, maybe you would understand what it’s showing. Surely there’s a point where a cylinder is completely closed for combustion? Can you manually crank for a compression test or not really possible? I’d have to get a gauge either way as I don’t have one.
i don’t know the history of the head properly I bought it with the car just not fitted it came with brand new injectors and leads, and didn’t look like it had been ran as it was pristine. Not sure on whether it was decked though. They did a smoke leak test and nothing came from around the head but did from the intake manifold (apparently quite common, garage said to use some sealant aswell as the new gasket.
PH4 Newman Cam
I appreciate your replies it giving me thinks to research and look into. I pick the car up Monday to bring it home and hopefully get to the bottom of things just don’t want it being another 6months until I drive it again😂.
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From: Manchester
Timing chain rattle (chain slap against the guides) is quite a bit louder than a "ticking" so that's probably not what they're hearing. If it was me I would (Step 1) first check the hydraulic damper (black rod) on the belt tensioner (unless you've replaced it). Over time the bushings at both ends can dry out, crack and fall out allowing the rod the vibrate against the attachment bolts at either end. Access is easy through the passenger-side wheel well once the liner is removed. If that's not it, then (Step 2) I would remove the serpentine belt, start it and either identify or eliminate the accessories/pulleys, etc. Both the steps above won't cost you anything but time if nothing is replaced. If that fails then you're probably correct that it's drivetrain noise and you're in for additional cash outlay for gaskets, parts, etc.
Auxiliary belt wouldn’t cause compression issues though would it? I have a video of the noise if you would like to hear it? Might give you some context. I heard the noise when I ran the car on stock injectors. And we identified it as top end. Didn’t seem to be coming from the belt tensioner but noise can be confusing and seem like it’s coming from somewhere else.
Only way to share the video…
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Joined: Jul 2018
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From: DFW, TX
Your spark plug tubes should have been altered to allow for an aftermarket cam as the tolerance between the cam lobe and tube is very small. That's accomplished by slightly denting them (old school) where the cam lobe may hit. ModMini on YouTube has an excellent cam installation video that details how this is done. That's especially critical with a high-lift cam like your Newman Ph4 with taller lobes (intake 0.472). If the tubes weren't dented I would want to know as soon as possible. As an aside, the cam you highlighted on your chart is for a non-supercharged engine and has the highest lift of any Newman cam listed. Is this correct?
On a personal note, I would love for you to post an audio of your exhaust with the engine running with a cam lift that high. My neighbor has a '67 Mustang with a 347 stroker and his high-lift cam makes it sound amazing.
On a personal note, I would love for you to post an audio of your exhaust with the engine running with a cam lift that high. My neighbor has a '67 Mustang with a 347 stroker and his high-lift cam makes it sound amazing.
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From: Manchester
Your spark plug tubes should have been altered to allow for an aftermarket cam as the tolerance between the cam lobe and tube is very small. That's accomplished by slightly denting them (old school) where the cam lobe may hit. ModMini on YouTube has an excellent cam installation video that details how this is done. That's especially critical with a high-lift cam like your Newman Ph4 with taller lobes (intake 0.472). If the tubes weren't dented I would want to know as soon as possible. As an aside, the cam you highlighted on your chart is for a non-supercharged engine and has the highest lift of any Newman cam listed. Is this correct?
On a personal note, I would love for you to post an audio of your exhaust with the engine running with a cam lift that high. My neighbor has a '67 Mustang with a 347 stroker and his high-lift cam makes it sound amazing.
On a personal note, I would love for you to post an audio of your exhaust with the engine running with a cam lift that high. My neighbor has a '67 Mustang with a 347 stroker and his high-lift cam makes it sound amazing.
I can definitely record a video of the exhaust for you haha.
The PH4 is for the supercharged engine, the notes are for the above cam. Notes for the PH4 is “developed for the track”
could you explain each of the columns and what the numbers mean please so I know for future reference. I’m clueless on it atm.
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I am not knockimg tour tune or tuner capabilities but i am wondering if you would benefit from a tune revision by adriancl on this forum . He has been known to have looked over some well known tuner files and had to adjust them. Just an idea.
. What are your afr readings at higher rpm? Those 550cc if not tuned properly can definetely cause power issues, but then again you may have had engine code show up.
I myself installed the newman ph2 cam on stock head and I had to dent the plug tubes a tad in order to clear the lobes . So I am quite sure yours would.definetely need some dinging also due to the higher lift . I remember doing some leak down tests and.my numbers were quite low , but was told quite a few times that the higher overlap lobes can affect the leak down tests also .
. What are your afr readings at higher rpm? Those 550cc if not tuned properly can definetely cause power issues, but then again you may have had engine code show up.
I myself installed the newman ph2 cam on stock head and I had to dent the plug tubes a tad in order to clear the lobes . So I am quite sure yours would.definetely need some dinging also due to the higher lift . I remember doing some leak down tests and.my numbers were quite low , but was told quite a few times that the higher overlap lobes can affect the leak down tests also .
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From: Atlanta, GA
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From: DFW, TX
Simple explanation is lift is a measure of the cam lobe height. The higher the lift the longer the valve stays open. Duration is the amount of time the valve stays open. Both combine to allow more oxygen to either enter or exit the cylinder depending on whether it's an intake or exhaust stroke. An engine, at its most basic, is simply an air pump. The more more air you can move through the engine, the more fuel is required (hence your larger 550cc injectors needed because there is more air flow with that cam), and the more power it makes. Power band simply indicates the RPMs where the cam is most responsive. In your case, the PH4 cam is meant to maximally operate and create the most power between 4,500 and 8,250 RPMs which is where it would be most beneficial on a track.
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From: Atlanta, GA
Yeah, Orranje lists the PH4 as an R50 cam. It’s probably better to verify with Newman themselves, but that’s what I thought I remembered from when I bought my PH2 (which is still sitting in a box because life happened). You should probably also figure out whether you actually have a PH4 or a PH3/4.
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From: Manchester
Thanks for the additional info, your concerns make more sense now.
By induction change I meant, upgrade in S/C or turbo swap.
While W/M could be beneficial, without real confirmation that everything else is as it should be, you'd just be adding another possible problem to the mix.
And your right, if one cylinder were considerably more than another, at least it would point you somewhere. That being said, if it were me, I'd do a cylinder to cylinder leak down test comparison, it should help to confirm or deny piston ring blow-by.
As far as a timing issue, absolutely could cause this, that's why I mentioned the Cam, I don't know it's specs. And if it possibly could have a slight bit of overlap or simply not allowing the valves to close properly. That being said, with all the Head work that was done, was the Head Decked? (Shaved to make it flat) Under normal circumstances, this will loosen the chain just slightly, and not really be much of an issue do to the tensioner being able to take up the slack. But a very aggressive Cam can change this, esp at RPM.
With that ticking noise you're experiencing, the first thing I'd do (before I pulled the timing cover) is replace the tensioner and add a tensioner spacer, this should take up any slack that could be there. Won't have any negatives if this doesn't fix the issue.
Good Luck, chasing gremlins is extremely frustrating after time and money has been spent.
By induction change I meant, upgrade in S/C or turbo swap.
While W/M could be beneficial, without real confirmation that everything else is as it should be, you'd just be adding another possible problem to the mix.
And your right, if one cylinder were considerably more than another, at least it would point you somewhere. That being said, if it were me, I'd do a cylinder to cylinder leak down test comparison, it should help to confirm or deny piston ring blow-by.
As far as a timing issue, absolutely could cause this, that's why I mentioned the Cam, I don't know it's specs. And if it possibly could have a slight bit of overlap or simply not allowing the valves to close properly. That being said, with all the Head work that was done, was the Head Decked? (Shaved to make it flat) Under normal circumstances, this will loosen the chain just slightly, and not really be much of an issue do to the tensioner being able to take up the slack. But a very aggressive Cam can change this, esp at RPM.
With that ticking noise you're experiencing, the first thing I'd do (before I pulled the timing cover) is replace the tensioner and add a tensioner spacer, this should take up any slack that could be there. Won't have any negatives if this doesn't fix the issue.
Good Luck, chasing gremlins is extremely frustrating after time and money has been spent.
I am yet to do a leak down test however have confirmed low compression myself. Cylinder 1&2 Both 105-110psi 3&4 110-115psi. Will do a wet compression test in the coming days when i get time to confirm piston rings. I don’t have a compressor for a leak down test currently but I do have a leak down test kit lol. But just think that it’s going to be CAM caused personally. I can stick my old stock cam in to compare compression figures.
I also compared length of chain tensioner and put a few washers to make the distance the same as the Kavs extended tensioner bolt length…
I am just about to do a supercharger service, Water pump, thermostat n aluminium housing replacement and a new radiator fan as car keep blowing coolant at idle.
Ive just been looking into W2A charge coolers specifically the one by GRS. Alongside M7 4% crank pulley and lowering my 17% pulley to 16%. What do you think? As I’m kinda thinking my intercooler which was already on the car is a Chinese nock off n isn’t efficient. So pay alittle bit more to go charged than A2A IC.
Last edited by NATHANR53; Mar 15, 2025 at 11:22 AM.
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 38
Likes: 7
From: Manchester
I am not knockimg tour tune or tuner capabilities but i am wondering if you would benefit from a tune revision by adriancl on this forum . He has been known to have looked over some well known tuner files and had to adjust them. Just an idea.
. What are your afr readings at higher rpm? Those 550cc if not tuned properly can definetely cause power issues, but then again you may have had engine code show up.
I myself installed the newman ph2 cam on stock head and I had to dent the plug tubes a tad in order to clear the lobes . So I am quite sure yours would.definetely need some dinging also due to the higher lift . I remember doing some leak down tests and.my numbers were quite low , but was told quite a few times that the higher overlap lobes can affect the leak down tests also .
. What are your afr readings at higher rpm? Those 550cc if not tuned properly can definetely cause power issues, but then again you may have had engine code show up.
I myself installed the newman ph2 cam on stock head and I had to dent the plug tubes a tad in order to clear the lobes . So I am quite sure yours would.definetely need some dinging also due to the higher lift . I remember doing some leak down tests and.my numbers were quite low , but was told quite a few times that the higher overlap lobes can affect the leak down tests also .
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 38
Likes: 7
From: Manchester
Yeah, Orranje lists the PH4 as an R50 cam. It’s probably better to verify with Newman themselves, but that’s what I thought I remembered from when I bought my PH2 (which is still sitting in a box because life happened). You should probably also figure out whether you actually have a PH4 or a PH3/4.
Hi Mate, thanks for your comment, apologies for the late reply.
Ive just put an updated comment of where I’m at as a reply to @BlwnAway if you could read that, maybe help you advise me more haha, thanks for all the help! Nathan
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