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I'm sorry if this has been discussed before, but I've searched a bunch of threads and haven't had any luck.
I have an '02 MCS manufactured in August of '02. The car has 52k on it. The car sat for the last three years. As of a couple weeks ago, I'm the second owner.
The shifting is not great. It goes into all the gears, but it's not eager to do so. There's not a lot of slop, and the gears positively engage. But 2d to 3d is kind of vague, and it can mis-shift from 3d to 2d if I'm not mindful.
What's the deal? How do I fix it?
I don't necessarily want a short shift kit; I'm not unhappy with the reach or throws or even the effort, but so far the entire experience of rowing the gears kind of sucks. I have the white frame shifter.
Full disclosure: I've been driving standard for more than 40 years, and I had several Fox body Mustangs with absolutely world-class Borg-Warner T5. That was obviously a direct-connect shifter, but I've also owned cars that shifted by wire or by rod, like a Taurus SHO, a couple of Porsches, even an old Renault Encore. So, I understand that not ever transmission shifts like the T5, but the shifting here is just making me sad.
Yes, many topics related to this but seems likely related to worn and faulty shift cables used on pre-FL Gen1. If you haven't already, watch forum member @Mod-Mini 's tuturial video which shows the failed cable parts as well as process to swap in a FL version newer shifter box with cables. Several here have done that, so subsequent questions can easily be addressed. I have a low mileage FL box advertised but with the SSK installed, unlikely of interest to you. If you decide to do the complete swap, check ALLMAG and Redline for lightly used parts and perhaps contact them directly if nothing currently listed for sale.
As I've read over time = New replacement cables for the older white/pre-facelift shifter box are impossible to find. If indeed, @ 52k mi the cables or shift lever ball socket is cracked or cable ends are worn (hard to imagine), then I think your best option would probably be to source a good used facelift shifter box and go with new cables and be done with. Just my opinion.
Outside of upgrading to a facelift shift box and cables; You might want to pull the air box and inspect the shift weight bushings (located on top of the trans below the air box). When I began having issues with (stiff shifting) my shifter, I discovered my shift weight bushings were nearly completely worn down to nothing.
I replaced them and all was right with the world again.
That is of course until my transmission broke several months later (....but that's a whole other story).
Here's a link to the thread that may help give you a little insight as to what others have discussed.
You can skip down to post #39 to my reply in addressing my shift weight bushing replacement.
It may not be the answer to your issue but it maybe something to consider.
IMO - unless the least $$ "temporary" repair is intended - replacement with the OEM FL shifter box and new(ish) cables is the way to go for long-term reliability. I state this without objective of selling my own (modded) shifter box as the OP knows from PMs on this topic, but instead with belief the updated design is superior and worth additional cost and minimal extra labor. The FL shifter box has little to wear out, other than the injection molded plastic bearing/bushing which tends to embrittle and fracture over time. New OEM replacements for that specific part are no longer available but Cravenspeed's version is much more robust while also adjustable for friction tension from the topside (shift lever boot popped-up for access to screws) per personal preferences. I installed that during rebuild of the donor shifter box on mine, despite the OEM plastic part being reusable. With either the OEM or replacement bushing in combo with new FL cables, would likely outlast other drivetrain parts while not requiring hacking up the interior console as would the Coolerworx shifter (which seems to me an odd and expensive "upgrade"). Pics of my donor shifter before rebuild and install are shown for illustration, noting a new Viton "bump stop" o-ring is advisable along with caution to avoid breaking any bottom cover attachment tabs.
For the OP or others wanting to improve their Getrag 6-spd shifting while preferring OEM stock vs modified, I'd go with combo of a used 2004+ shifter box as in the linked eBay ad with new cables purchased from ECS Tuning or authorized genuine MINI parts retailer of your choice. I like this used shifter due to claimed low mileage plus fairly late 2006 model year production as indicated by the shown assembly build date. True, no complimentary cables included with that, however items 7 & 8 in the exploded diagram (2nd link) should be reusable to save a few $$. If purchasing a used shifter box, examine the white plastic (nylon?) bushing for signs of fatigue and/or replace that part with Cravenspeed's kit (also available from Way Motor Works), replace the overtravel o-ring (shift lever bumpstop) and liberally grease all all moving parts while easily accessible. When all done, essentially a complete new assembly for ~ $400.
$$$
