Yes i've replaced clutch and flywheel and throw out bearing. I don't know what the sleeve is.? a

 

This is the sleeve that the throwout bearing goes onto.

 

I have the same problem how did u bleed it did u buy the special tool the compreses the slave cylinder all the way in then u hook up all the lones after then u release it?

 

Sometimes over time, the pressure plate may warp or the fingers or diaphragm may become uneven. The only fix for this is to replace it, have the flywheel turned and replace the clutch. Expensive to say the least and a ton of work to do it.
If the clutch is not releasing all the way, it will be hard to disengage and get into a gear, if sitting still. I have noticed many Minis' have this and guessing it may be a design flaw, as so many have this issue.

 

Hello Jose,

I had to replace the clutch fork as it was bent all the hell, as well as a new clutch kit. Luckily my pressure plate was in great shape.

 

I'm sorry I didn't tell you how they ( I say they because you need more than 1 person to bleed the slave ).
This is a good example on what to do:

 

Ha ! As far as I can tell this thread never gets around to solving the posters problem of stiff shifting.

The cause is the "set, weight shift" pivot is seizing. A single hex head bolt through a washer and a nylon sleeve with a steel inner shaft is seizing due to heat. In the morning shifting is easy and then 15 minutes of driving heat causes this to seize. The replacement part is $100. It sits on top of the gear box and to gain access you must remove the air box. You will find the shifter cables connected to the "shift selector" which can also seize up. It also costs around $100. Anyway to replace your "set, weight shift" you will need to remove the "shift selector". First pop off the shifter cables but be careful because old "press fit" bushings might not be snug like new and you don't want the bushing to fall out of the shifter cable end. ( If this happens, there is a good video on the internet. Shifter cables cost $75 - $150. The work involves removing the exhaust system and exhaust heat shields and shifter box so you have to get the car up in the air or work like a reptile ), Anyway, removing your "shift selector" and "set, shift weight" you need a 13 mm socket and a lot strength and patience because the hex head bolts are thread locked from the factory. Make sure the socket is squarely on the head and be prepared to apply a lot of torque while maintaining a secure fit. The thread locker will make it difficult and make you thing you are Hercules twisting off the head of the bolt. Be patient. Even when you have managed a 1/4 turn of the bolt it will never spin freely because of the thread locker. Go slow and steady. If you are concerned about damaging the bolt, loosen a little and screw back in a pinch. Back and forth, back and forth until the bolt is removed.

 

Glad to have stumbled upon this old thread!
I've had the same identical problem as the OP = Shifts super smooth when cold - not so much when warm/hot.
I've been bewildered by this reoccurring shifter problem for too long now (at least 3years), with nary a solution or fix... (besides having to replace the clutch).
The best, affordable and necessary thing I could do was to preform a complete and thorough hydraulic brake flush and clutch save bleed.
It worked great in regaining a better clutch pedal feel. No doubt - but the symptom continues to exist after a long, stop and go, or spirited drive.
I am going to have to try @BRG 's solution/recommendation and have a look at/replace my shift weight.

 

I'm glad I came across this revived thread. @BRG 's solution is something I'll have to look into when my daughter goes off to college this Fall and her Mini is sitting around more - that will give me time to thoroughly go through the whole shifter/pivot mechanism.

This sound similar to a repair I did on a 2001 VW Jetta's manual transmission a few years ago. It involved replacing the shifter pivot bushing with a Delrin replacement, after tacking some fine-grit sandpaper to the opening in the shifter pivot housing where the bushing sat. The corrosion on the aluminum shifter pivot housing would squeeze the OE bushing and pinch the pivot point, resulting in very stiff shifting. Once I completed that repair, the shift lever was smooth and easy to shift again.

 

Before I took mine apart, it was really hard to get into first gear and I had to push the pedal all the way toy eh floor for each gear change. My linkage on top of gear box looks good, hopefully the new clutch flywheel and throw out bearing will fix this. I’ve never done the bleeding before. I’m still a few weeks away from starting it up yet.

 

I just discovered this discussion last night; so I haven't yet had a chance to pull the airbox to get a closer inspection. I had also purchased the Cravens peed shift lever bushing but have yet to install that as well. So, Yeah - I hope BRG's shift weight advice in addition to the new lever bushing will solve the issue once and for all.
I already had an indy Mini garage replace the clutch disk but not the pressure plate or TOB @79K (now @95k), and claimed everything else was good.
If this doesn't do the trick. ...It may look to be another COMPLETE clutch replacement.

 

Yeah - I would definitely do a thorough hydraulic/brake fluid flush and clutch slave bleed.
It really made a world of difference in my clutch pedal feel and travel...even with my currently installed clutch slave and (old 95kmi) pressure plate.
Since I had no one I could call upon to push the pedal - I used a pressure bleeder (best invention known to man...besides a foot), and bled the heck out of it (6oz+/-).
It was super easy even for a first timer (like myself), working on a modern car.

 

I had the same symptoms, but mine was caused by the incorrect orientation of a new aluminum hot side intercooler pipe that was physically obstructing the shifting mechanism at the transmission.
Reminder to always eliminate any potential problems caused by recent changes before assuming that you have a new standalone problem.

 

I found the price for a new replacement shift weight assembly ($150 - $200 +), to be a bit egregious to be honest. I ordered and received a shift weight bushing repair kit from a seller in Belarus.
It's just the central pivot sleeve/bushing alone without the "thingamabob" looking weight....$46.60


Taking preemptive measures (while I'm in there), I also resourced a few other items just in case I encounter any unexpected surprises or parts that appear worn or should be replaced...


Above: Shift weight bushing, polyurethane shift cable bushings and a Cravenspeed shift lever bushing kit.

I plan on first installing the shift weight and work my way down the parts/replacement list.
I'll update my results with the shift weight bushing installation and if it has solved my stiff shifting issues due to hot temps.

 

Looks good.
I made my repair to the set, shift weight in June 2020 and there has never been any stiff shifting.

Important : Remove the negative cable from the battery before you start removing the air filter box.

The air filter box also houses the "engine ecu" and you will be unplugging two connectors and gently setting aside. Then the whole box comes out with the ecu attached.

Its not as serious as it sounds. The two connectors sit on top of the ecu. First you have to slide back the locking tabs and then you pry up the multi-pin connectors. I have done it so many times and nothing has broken. They are fairly robust and not like other parts on the car.

 

@BRG

 

Exciting!

I can't remember if you have a LCI or PreLCI R53, but my old R53 had the earlier shift cables and shift box, and shifting feel improved significantly when replacing all the cables, but after a year they had started to get a bit harder to shift and it was due to the design of the cables - they were open to the elements. My GP has the later design of the shift box and cables, and I've felt no degradation over the years since i changed them out. I have had issues with side to side play, which I think is now due to flex and wear in the actual shift box, but I gained a big improvement by replacing the shift weight and the worn out teflon piece.

 

Forgive my Mini ignorance = "LCI"?
I'm not sure of that acronym but my 04 R53 is pre-facelift (10.03). However it seems a bit bizarre; from what I can see it appears that I have the black facelift shifter box installed from the factory. I've never had the shifter box replaced since I owned the car new....

 

For whatever reason, I never really see people use LCI (life cycle impulse, IIRC) with the first gens like they do with other BMWs. I'm not sure if it was used internally or not, but I've never run across it in any of the literature I've looked at.

 

So I'm in the middle of R&Ring this thing (shift weight), and find myself a bit confused.
Circled in Red = Where the @#!% does this (little black square) THING go?...
I never saw one fall or come out of the shift weight assembly when I removed it.


In the image above: The old central nylon pivot bushing had minor slop but the inner brass bolt sleeve looked pretty good with no slop within the bolt/brass sleeve.
Contrary to that- It is very obvious that the nylon rectangle shaft guide had broken at the edges and is considerably worn down.

So far it is yet to be seen/felt if either one were cause for the stiff/difficulty engaging in gear(s) after a spirited run, heavy stop & go traffic or hot engine conditions.

But back to the question: Anyone know where that little black plastic square goes???

 

...Never mind....

Damn . Some of these cars are so rusty, I couldn't even recognize it from the pics online!




Thank You Detroit Tuned!

 

I replaced my cables and shift weight and never came across a small black clip like that. I own a 2005 R53 Facelift built after July 2004. Picture of my old shift weight which I originally tried to repair but it kept seizing so I replaced the whole damn thing.

 

New shift weight bushings installed.

Having only replaced the bushings as shown in the above post - #39...
I had hoped to try to be brief by first saying that as easy as the procedure may seem; it was not without it's challenges.
First off; Access from under the air filter box can appear to be sufficient...Until you try to wedge both hands in there.
Removing the central 13mm shift weight pivot bolt/bushing can be accessed with a swivel head ratchet and deep well socket - But I found that a 1.5" stubby extention with regular 1.5" socket on a common ratchet works best.
As @BRG had stated (para-phrased) - Be prepared for the fight of your life. That bolt is on there tight!
The factory uses some space age locktite and some serious impact device to secure that beast. Take your time and work that bolt back and forth a little at a time. It will come.



Having seen many pics within the depths of other owner's rusty, dirty, grimy cars; I am fortunate that my Mini is always surprisingly clean for a 19y/o car. Much more satisfying to work on.
I stuff a rag under the area I'm working on. Not because of grime - Just so nuts & bolts don't go falling into a parallel universe. = never to be seen again.
.



With my shift weight removed - The potential problem was self evident.


New bushing repair kit in place and ready to install...

Then I noticed this...

New pivot bolt bushing / Left - factory bushing / Right. The new nylon bushing has a bolt sleeve that is steel instead of brass.
The bore is also sightly larger than the factory diameter 13mm shanked bolt size.
Though this didn't sit right with me - there was only just a micron play in the bolt within the steel sleeve/bore. Having come this far in the R&R - I conceded to move forward with the installation.

Next came the unexpected [sorry no pics] -
The gear selector guide shaft would NOT slide into the new rectangle nylon bushing!
However, the bushing by itself (not inserted on the shift weight) slid onto the shaft with absolutely no effort.
But try as I might; I could not even come close to getting that shaft to slide through the rectangle bushing while inserted on the shift weight...The bushing had flexed inward enough to make it impossible.
After almost an hour, finally having to remove the left front wheel to try to better access from underneath, while weaving a tapestry of vulgar obscenities - I finally gave in to my last resort. I removed the rectangle bushing from the weight and proceeded to ever so slightly Dremel the inside of the shift weight (bushing) opening with a small drum sander attachment. After doing so and reinstalling the bushing - the shaft slid right through with only a slight drag.



All lubed up, thread locked and installed. Mission accomplished!

Epilogue:
What I expected / that should've been a 3 hour R&R turned into an all day event.
Having test driven the Mini for a short spirited run (to get it hot), I did notice a positive difference.
Although very smooth and still a bit notchy through the lower gears it definitely glides into gear much nicer.
Reverse is still a little hard to (find) engage after driven hot but not nearly as hard as it was before the refresh.
The original shift cables look and work well. I suspect the shifter box rubber support mount may be flexing when attempting to move the shifter into reverse. I also have the new CravenSpeed shift lever bushing in which I will eventually replace my original.
It may make a difference as well.

In my opinion (FWIW): The shift weight bushing repair kit is not a bad alternative to buying a new entire shift weight assembly. I think it made a difference at a considerable cost savings. Although there were a few unexpected differences to the OEM, I also noticed that many (if not all) of the new shift weight assemblies being offered, also have the same steel sleeve (oppose to brass) and (possibly) the same issue with the shift lever shaft not playing nice with the new rectangular bushing.

Your mileage may vary.

 

Great job and thanks for the detailed write up with pictures.

Your mechanicals look really clean ! I presume you inspected other parts and found everything in good order.

My 2005 R53 is subject to a lot of moisture and salt spray so in addition to the seized set shift weight ( definitely the main culprit for my stiff shifting ), I decided to replace the selector lever which is what the cables attach to. The cables were disengaged so I could move the lever but I was so fed up having to work on this area a second time that didn't want to go back a third time to replace a selector lever. Therefore I bought and installed a new one $94.91. Ever since my gearbox has been heaven to use.

The number one issue I find with these cars is the high heat in the engine bay which really wears parts out.

 

Hey @BRG - I had intended to write a big THANK YOU! to you for reviving the thread that you suggested replacing the shift weight.
In my case - you were dead on in diagnosing and remedy for my particular stiff/hard shifting issue.

Although as I had posted above; I only replaced the shift weight bushings. I inspected as many associated parts as I could see or assume "while I was in there".
The shift cables and pivot/ball joint bushings were in great shape, greased, no rust, no grime and moved freely, tight, without slop or apparent wear.
The cable boots appeared debatable as I wasn't sure if the ends of the boots had worn off their (nipples) as shown on the new ones in one of your pics.
The little black square (where the @#!% bushing?) - aka: the transmission guide bushing,was still square, had no discernible wear, had lube, glided freely and worked well.
I didn't pull the shifter box. I only pulled the interior shift lever boot to inspect the shifter ball bushing. No cracks and was lubed well with lithium. My shifter always had great spring rebound and only .5" - .75" of play in xyz. No slop.
Strangely enough, I did however discover my early pre-facelift '04 came with the updated facelift shift box installed when I bought it new back in late '03 !?!.
I also took a moment to inspect my transmission/gearbox support bracket and bushing. I couldn't determine much visually. The car is almost 19 y/o. Bushings don't get better with age - I have a new powerflex replacement that is due to arrive tomorrow. All the engine support bushings on my Mini have been replaced with powerflex. So I've got the transmission support bracket bushing planned to R&R this weekend.

One thing I should note regarding my reverse gear issue after replacing the shift weight bushings: There is no issue with the shifter. It didn't take long for me to finally realize that it was all due to muscle memory .
I've been so used to moving (if not forcing) the shifter in effort to find/engage reverse for so long with those worn out bushings that I now find myself having to break that (unnecessary) habit and re-learn to just move the lever into reverse as I did when the car was new.

It really does shift like a brand new car now!

Thanks a million @BRG AND to @Oldboy Speedwell for their keen insight and posting the source for the shift weight bushings.