Those black running-stripes are a nice touch, they look good, you figure the factory would be slapping those on! For what it's worth, DDM is having a moving sale and a lot of their engine bolt-on stuff is marked down really nice

 

thx for the heads up.. lol wish i coukd buy another ddm intake box but after trading the turbo kit and money for the tvs , the only money ille have this month now ( after I still pay off another 400 I had to borrow) is if I sell some parts or any local mini guys need some work done
but its SOOOOOO worth it to FINALLY be able to get a tvs.

 

Thx Mr cooper him self !!!!!
I got lucky A F !
I went to again , help someone out and on the way there the oil light came on. So I pulled over n **** it off and checked the oil and it was abit low so I put in another 1qt and the light went off.. buuuuut on the way home it came back on so now I started to panic.
no odd noises ect but an oil light is Always worrisome.
so I did use a junk stp filter and junk 5w30 oil so it could be one of those OR the sensor or failure of the oil pump.
so I got new oil , wix filter and a new sensor. I completely drained the oil amd removed the old sensor and put in new one and new oil AND THX COOPER HIMSELF the oil light was off the entire 30min test drive.
also NO cel for #2 missfire anymore either since getting in the newer style 380cc injectors and fuelrail spacers and again new ngkR's..
so the car is back to being able to be driven again... geez , what a scare.. now i gotta finish up my tvs install on my other mini and if the sprintex doesnt sell by the time i can afford to, i will send it out for a inspection and full rebuild and then toss it onto this car and pick up a quick 20-30hp...

 

Well , this cold weather has caused abit of an issue..
ANY HELP would be MUCH appreciated.
So here's the issue , then I will explain abit more..
either I have a p0302 occasionally or a consistent p1498 end eml light. Ille explain...
Either I run the car WITH the oilcatch can on and i seem to be getting an excessive build up of condensation in my purge hose going into my intake along with under the oil cap , it will then occasionally throw a p0302 code for cyl2 missfire. I changed plugs,coil and injectors and no change. Cleaned and even tried change both map sensors also no change. I also smoke tested the engine and found no leaks. Also tried a different throttlebody with no change. So I try removing the catch can and running stock vacuum line routing BUT as soon as the catchcan is removed and I start the engine the eml light is immediately on and it throws a p1498 code.. then if I do NOTHING other than reconnect the catchcan , the p1498 code and eml light goes off and I won't get a cel until the random p0302 comes up ,which only seems to cone up IF I let my car idle to warm up and give it NO throttle input. That's the only time I seen the p0302 code come up was at idle. It idles glass smooth too.
my vacuum at idle is 14-16hg and when in gear it goes into the 20s. Car also makes 17psi...
the OOOOOOONLY thing I can think of is I have a post lift ecu with a gp tune in this 04 pre facelift car.
I wonder if it has something to do with the ecu parameters not matching up with the 04 sensors or something... idk ????..
anybody got aby ideas ????
I got an entire new gasket kit , I will be redoing every gasket on up besides head gasket. I also got new fuelinjector Orings too so once I'm doing that I can further inspect vacuum line routing then too.. because it's just not making sense why I'm getting 1x code or the other. And idk why reinstalling my catch can would prevent the p1498 and eml code , you'd think those codes woukd come up WHEN I PUT ON the catch can , NOT remove it. Because that is am unmetered air code and I'm literally removing potential vacuum leaks by removing the catchcan but it's doing the exact opposite..

 

Could be one of the three tubes on the plastic intake tube. Thise red push locks have issues over time. I have a brand new intake tube if you need it.

 

I will keep that in mind if mine is cracked or if I had ported it and somehow caused the gasket to not seal or seat correctly..
Unfortunately a smoke test didn't show any leaks and I had a family emergency so I took the car to my dad's( lol got pulled over by hwy patrol chic and thxfully we got along very well and only got fixit warning ) but anyways the car didn't throw ANY codes the 300mile trip up buuuut on the way back a p2096 code came up so I wonder if the 02 spacer isn't doing its job..
buuuuut I didn't get the cyl#2 misfire code or eml light..
hhhhhmmmm.
I guess I'm gonna yank EVERYTHING off besides the head , redo gasket surfaces and install all new gaskets. I actually got new injectors too and ic boots ect.
I'm also gonna put in a new timing chain tensioner just to be safe too because I do have a full timing kit but it was for when I cammed the car. But it probably would be smart to replace the tensioner anyways just to be safe in the meantime. Exp since now I HAVE to register and make the car fully legit now. Awe well , I had to anyways with winter coming and this is when I will be using this car the most now because I won't bring out TheTroll in this weather..
so ille post back if I find any issues or anything..

 

On your p2096 check your boots on your intercooler. I was using the URO oem ones and they were leaking definitely on the hot side, and were probably leaking cold side, p01498 until they got warm, and threw p2096 after a 3 hour drive. I’m not a fan of my Alta boots, but they seem to be doing the trick for now. I bought all new OEM boots, new clamps, and hardware.

 

I did when I spoke tested it..I also will try my new boots if my issue I found doesn't fix the problem.

 

I was about to start putting on all new gaskets but I wanted to try my new injectors 1st , I actually had 2x new sets on hand ( jcw knock offs and skinny body style ) so when I was checking again for vacuum leaks or fuel leaks before I removed the injectors. I was priming the fuel system and I thiiiiiiiiink this noise you hear in the video was 1x or 2x injectors leaking down. I'm almost positive they were because I blew out the injector holes and it threw out A BUNCH of gas..
so I put in the new jcw style injectors and no longer heard that noise. But i went to start the car and it took for ever to get it started, then it ran terrible for a few min and once it cleared out all the extra fuel it began idling GREAT. the car prior ,at idle , the exhaust shook, almost violently and I thought maybe it was a exhaust leak or bad exhaust bushings so I replaced all those with 0 Change.. buuuuuut now , it seems the exhaust bouncing around has lessened ALOT and the engine seems to rock muuuuch less at idle too. I bet it was filling my cyl full of fuel and I'd only see the issue on numerous restarts which I barely done since it's barely been driven.
I will putz it around a few days and if the cel comes back I will then put on the gaskets.
I also dumped out my oil and put new oil in , AGAIN !!
I could smell fuel pretty strong in my crank case and in the bit of oil I dropped to inspect..
So far so good but I only drove ldrove5miles maybe 20min so it needs to be put through its paces and have all the emissions systems checks finished to see if the issue is fully resolved..
​I ALSO resanded amd repainted the front upper grill as specs of chrome were starting to show through.
Here's a video I took hoping you could hear the leak down.

 

Just a guess, but the colder weather may be over-pressurizing the system just enough to set off the EML, those sensors are sensitive. My experience on installation was the same after the first test drive, problem was too much ventilation (was running two breathers instead of one). In your case it might be just the opposite, since it's now running in cold conditions (boost increase), you may actually need to add a breather to the clean side. Also it looks like you're running an air/oil sep instead of a can, which is a lot smaller and can definitely create increased pressure on the dirty side. Nothing wrong with that, but it will send more oil vapors over to your clean side which could be the actual problem (p0302). You'll need a cap (Dorman 02254 with 3/4" iDiameter)for the intake tube and something like the Predator 12mm air filter for the hose, this goes right on to the existing connector. Amazon carries these but your local car parts store may have some on the rack. Definitely not a big deal, but not the sort of thing you want to ignore as it will only cause more probs over time.

 

Here's an old M7 diagram for reference sake...

 

So sofar now only code I'm getting is a p2096 lean code.
I do have a few post cat exhaust leaks but I wouldn't think they'd cause the code. But i will check the long and short term fuel trims and if theyre ok then its forsure an exhaust leak.
I am running catless headers BUT I don't have the p0420 cat inefficiency code socode02 spacer is working ( just like on my other mini ) but either there's an exhaust leak or possibly an intake leak still.
But i did smoke test AGAIN and again found no intake side leaks But I did find those couple exhaust leaks behind the cat but infront of the mufflers..
sooooooo I will do more looking into it tomorrow.
I'm also hoping to get a nice handheld diagnostic tool that functions like inpa and does similar stuff so I don't gotta keep running that because it's a pita and it's all in German so I'm limited to what I can understand.

 

So I checked my fueltrims after I got the cel to turn back on after the drive cycle I do. Judging by the fueltrims I CANT IMAGINE I have a vacuum leak , spark or fuel delivery issue causing the p2096 code..hhhmmm
so this time instead of just a full ecu reset i ALSO reset the adaptions too just encase they wernt clearing though ecu was being reset..
I slso attempted to fix the few LITTLE exhaust leaks down stream or the 02 sensors where the pipes clamp together. I removed the clamps , cleaned the pipes and then slathered muffler putty into any seams and under the clamps then put the clamps back on WITH my impact so I know the bolts are tight. There was a leak in the mid pipe and 2x rite in front of the mufflers , all leaks were leaking from past the pipe connectors so maybe p.o I got the exhaust from didn't seat the exhaust into its self far enough or didn't have the clamps tight enough.
I have noticed the code ONLY comes on after 2nd restart once in at freeway cruising speeds and like when I let off the throttle to slow down , I watch my afr peg lean as its cutting fuel like it should and that's EXACTLY when the cel and code pops up is when I'm on decel , off the throttle, at highway speed.. if I stay on the or perform abit different drive cycle and rather than get upto highway speeds 5min into drive and if I say get onto the freeway or a road when I can just continually give it throttle and not have to slow down to a stop. The cel will NOT come on , it ONLY comes on at a full deceleration coming to a stop from highway speed...
wtf ????
its not too big of a deal though since i registered the car upto my cottage so it doesnt have to go throygh emissions. I can also have adriancl tune that code out then too and keep cel off BUT it wouldn't pass emissions then even though the cel would stay off because the rear 02 sensor would be shut off in the tune. I wanna get it done the rite way , I hate doing stuff half asked and if I were to wanna sell or trade the car , I like to be able to have it pass emissions because it's kinda a tell of how well the car has been put together imo..
I'm gonna check later this morning and see if I have fixed the few little exhaust leaks just encase those were allowing air into the exhaust somehow and causing the lean detection code...
***** crossed the fix along with adaptions reset , i hope i got it fixed Finally..
again , not that it causes ANY issues or drivability problems what so ever , I just hate cel's.. and btw , to be honest , this car ACTUALLY feels Ppeppier and smoother than my other build , partial throttle and lower speeds youd swear this car is faster , idk why but it actually has better throttle response. Its odd because the 2x builds are very similar. I guess keeping the stock head and cam really help maintain that immediate zippyness. Its NOT near as fast as my other r53 but honestly the only tune you can tell it's not is when your full throttle and at speeds above 40mph..
Im really looking forward to seeing how well I can get this car to perform yet with stock head , supercharger and cam. Basically I wanna see how far I can take it on Boltons alone and them compare it to my other that has the performance head,cam and supercharger and then see if that extra 7000$ you spend on big valve head , cam and that aftermarket supercharger is worth it. Sofar dollar to dollar I think I'm much more impressed with this car.. I will post a detailed walk around and then a good pull like in my project Rice build...
so stay tuned guys , video coming soon !
iM gonna recheck fueltrims too rite after my drive cryle again because I just can't imagine those numbers being correct when I took the pic. They're literally PERFECT and I can't imagine the cars running THAT well , can it ? I mean it really is perfectly smooth but still , can that be rite ?

 

Well 70miles in , multiple restarts and type driving and sofar SO GOOD !
CEL is off so i will give it a few more drives befor i declare it fixed..

 

Awesome !!!! Cel is stating off , ive put on over 200x miles now , numerous restarts and drive cycles.. I will hook up my icarsoft and test that things ability out and what it can do and I will check if all the emissions monitors are ready and passed..
lol IM LOVING this winter or should i say , lack of winter. No snow yet lol though we got measurable snowfall in mid October , we've had none since. Matter fact the weather has been low 40s and drizzling most days but today it's abit chillier but atleast the sun is out so I think I'm gonna take the car in for a carwash because my hose is shut off for winter.
I ALSO FINALLY landed a direct flow intercooler for this setup so once it arrives or is enroute and i get an eta , i plan on custom molding the underside of the oversized hoodscoop I have to direct the air perfect through the dfic and I will be purchasing an exit scoop also so that it will funnel the air directly in and out the ic and I will even make under shielding/air path guide box also underneath. I will be using cardboard and fiberglass probably to make the custom molding. The dfic also comes with a built in ic sprayer so I will turn the rear wiper reservoir and pump into an intercooler cooler then instead.
I also found out that the rims it has on ARE oldschool enkei rims ! Lol , no wonder I liked them so much..that's actually my favorite brand rims , my all time fav is rpf1 actually. I did have knockoff rpf1's when I 1st got my other cooper and loved them but u had to upgrade to larger rims for larger brakes and had to sell them unfortunately. Maybe down the road I'd like to upgrade the brake on this car also to either the brembo or porche brembo brake swap and then get another set of 16or17in rpf1 or reps depending on which brake setup I decide on ( probably the porches brake swap so I can compare it vs the 4x pot brembo jcw calipers)..

 

Still running that factory HK head unit eh? I didn't have the heart to toss mine out when the amp blew, the steering wheel buttons are such a perfect fit to the driving experience, can't imagine them not being there The mild winter thing is here to stay for awhile. Until that longitudinal coronal hole closes up on the Sun's surface we're gonna flash between the two extremes of a mild/harsh winter; good news is the lack of daily road salt exposure to the chassis

 

amen to that brother !

 

Here's a walk-around and pull video for you guys. Its definitely not the fastest but it sure sounds DANG nice imo.

 

Had a little accident the other day.. coming around a roundabout, a truck on the inside drifter into my lane and I had to move over so he didn't sideswipe me and when I moved over my tires caught the snow ruts and slushy ice and pulled my car right , then I immediately tried to brake and because of the tires I'd had on , it just slid , and up the snowbank I went..
I destroyed the bumper but luckily the grills are ok i also think i wrecked a rim as it knocked the tire off the bead and took a little chip off the rim by the bead.
the car was spose to sell the NEXT DAY ! I was on way to dmv to get the title because they'd never sent it.
I grabbed a set of rotas and that have new tires on them so these tires are wayyyyyy better for weather. And OMG are the rims light WOW !! ALSO if the guy doesn't end up buying the car today , I'm taking it down for sake and repairing it fully.. ecs has a replacement bumper for under 300 so with paint , it cost like 500$ only to finish fixing it..

 

Sorry to hear about your mishaps. You've put a lot into this little Aero. Indeed a shame to see it like this.
I've always been fond of those rims you just put on!
I hope to purchase a set in 17's when finances allow.

I kinda agree with your sentiment - but I'll phrase it like this; "I too dislike idiots behind the wheel of a truck".

Best of luck to you with repairs and the sale.

 

Lame dude. Didn’t realize you drove yours in this weather.

 

I usually dont but thr buyer wanted to title asap and I had to get it from the dmv aaaaaand yaaaaaaa.
but the car has gone to a new home and I will be hopefully getting an r59 jcw that I've had my eyes on..

 

Thats front lower part of the aero grille is the hard part to find. If that breaks you have to find used or fix the old one which if snapped in half is no good. Hope you can get it back to what it once was.

 

I ended up selling the car... if all plays out , i actually might be selling my other built r53 then too and stepping ny game upto an r56 jcw..
though either way , tomorrow I'm going to check out an r58 jcw that's got some body damage from hail and other than 2x dents on the rear 1/4 pannel , the hood and fenders that have dents id replace with carbonfiber anyways and the roof has already bedn replaced..
it's currently wrapped so the dents ate hidden..
it's gonna be hard for me to pass this car up because the seller has offered me a great , almost can't pass up price.. car only has 110k too.

 

You will regret anything other than possible a late model 56. To much bmw in anything else