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They're almost exactly like the canton BUT have the viewport for coolant infront like it should be. Fitment was good but did have to extend powersteering lines abit and a coolant hose. But for 1/4 the price of the canton , I'd do it again.
my viewport is abit different as mines a see through glass plug and I'd get my kind as those rubber middle hoses tend to leak. I think mine were abit cheaper too exp because I put in a lower offer and seller accepted it.
are you talking about the see through hose to check coolant level?
My thought is if it leaked, seller should make it right...my opinion
Bryan
I mean they leak over time... I doubt an ebay seller is gonna replace a product 6+ months later.. I'm not saying they leak rite away but sometimes over time they can. I was just told to avoid that kind so that's why I got the kind I did with a glass viewport.
I'm sure it would be fine , I bet they leak alot from improper install anyways and then the product gets blamed not the user.
OK, I'll be the contrarian - why not just go with OEM replacement tanks? Early Gen1 coolant tanks failed but were subsequently improved in later years. Seems to me, a plastic tank letting go from excessive pressure elsewhere makes it "fusible link" vs the radiator or cylinder head gasket. Not the bling of polished aluminum or chromed steel but so much more practical, IMO...
Seems to me, a plastic tank letting go from excessive pressure elsewhere makes it "fusible link" vs the radiator or cylinder head gasket. Not the bling of polished aluminum or chromed steel but so much more practical, IMO...
I’ve seen someone else mention this opinion here as well, but isn’t that the point of a radiator cap?
I have a Canton tank that I scored for cheap and will let it go for what I paid which is $75, let me know if you're interested.
It's in rough shape though and needs a thorough refinishing.
I was going to do it the same way Tweedbean does in the video below, but in the end I just decided to keep my Forge-style tank and not refinish the Canton, so it's just been sitting in my parts pile.
I've been running a Canton tank for 2+ years now, probably closer to 3. Never had an issue, and don't see the need for a sight glass. I've read of issues with leaks from other designs with the sight glass, but have no first hand knowledge.
I'm familiar with Canton, and while it definitely costs more I'm willing to pay for quality. Ebay knock offs may or may not meet the quality standard, but also are ripping off the company that did the R&D.
I personally like the old school pressure cap over the plastic design-the fail safe is the cap and the nipple in the neck (which allows me to run a hose down below the engine so any pressure release doesn't happen in my engine compartment). I've never had it overflow, but I know what to expect.
I've been running a Canton tank for 2+ years now, probably closer to 3. Never had an issue, and don't see the need for a sight glass. I've read of issues with leaks from other designs with the sight glass, but have no first hand knowledge.
I'm familiar with Canton, and while it definitely costs more I'm willing to pay for quality. Ebay knock offs may or may not meet the quality standard, but also are ripping off the company that did the R&D.
I personally like the old school pressure cap over the plastic design-the fail safe is the cap and the nipple in the neck (which allows me to run a hose down below the engine so any pressure release doesn't happen in my engine compartment). I've never had it overflow, but I know what to expect.
The coolant viewport or tube allows you to 100% verify your pumps pumping coolant as well as be able to see coolant level without having to remove the cap to check..I see a need for them on an aluminum tank.. lol even the stock ones over times get so yellowed you can't see the coolant level in them.
and if your running a fully modded engine id absolutely upgrade the coolant reservoir, that sure would suck to have the oem split durring a race or road run session and cook the engine and or atleast douse your engine in coolant.. imo better safe than sorry. I'm the person where that 1/10000 will happen to.
and I don't know if stock rad cap allows a boil off a spefic psi or not like the aluminum ones do encase your coolant system goes kaput.
I mean they leak over time... I doubt an ebay seller is gonna replace a product 6+ months later.. I'm not saying they leak rite away but sometimes over time they can. I was just told to avoid that kind so that's why I got the kind I did with a glass viewport.
I'm sure it would be fine , I bet they leak alot from improper install anyways and then the product gets blamed not the user.
I sent the seller a message asking about the warranty if the sight tube started leaking at any time after installing it on the car.... will see what he says about it
I got an answer from the seller of those two tanks I asked about....he says warranty is one year from date of purchase for anything that happens to them, cracks, leaks, etc......he also said that I would have to contact Rev9 for warranty claims...
I'm still on the fence here, I can't afford the big money some of these aluminum tanks go for...yet I still want piece of mind knowing that my plastic tank is out of my engine bay. The two that I originally posted are about all I care to spend on these items....I just don't want or need any issues down the road
I got an answer from the seller of those two tanks I asked about....he says warranty is one year from date of purchase for anything that happens to them, cracks, leaks, etc......he also said that I would have to contact Rev9 for warranty claims...
I'm still on the fence here, I can't afford the big money some of these aluminum tanks go for...yet I still want piece of mind knowing that my plastic tank is out of my engine bay. The two that I originally posted are about all I care to spend on these items....I just don't want or need any issues down the road
Bryan
Get the one I have then.. you could even just put in a bolt instead of the viewport..
Mine doesn't have a plastic tube , it's literally a bolt on view port... I've run mine now almost yr , 0 isses. Ille go snap a pic... I also have my old coolant reservoir with a dang near new cap.. p.o put the tank on 1yr befor I'd gotten the car because old one split on him so it's about 4yr old tank by now.
Seems that adding a bunch of unnecessary weight to a low powered car is counterintuitive !
After all, it takes more horsepower to haul more weight.
Yeah, the aluminum tanks additional weight is small, but...adding oz's here, and oz's there, all of a sudden add up to pounds. A coupla pounds here, and a coupla pounds there...NOW...NEED MORE POWER..!
Beside, what does an aluminum tank do that a plastic tank cannot ? Well, beside maybe (once in a VERY great while) breaking the bonded seam . Doesn't help you go faster, doesn't help you corner faster (see sentence above), doesn't give the engine more power...all...no.
Brighter/shiny, some think it's cooler looking, race cars have aluminum tanks, can be painted, can be polished (the original post...they ARE polished, NOT chromed), can have a sand blasted finish, all to look cool, or pretty.
Yeah, my JCW still has the old low class, factory plastic.
I'm trying to avoid a problem before it happens....last thing I need is to be out somewhere in the car and have the plastic tank break open on me.....mine isn't leaking yet either, I am glad yours is still holding up...but there are many that have not
I also don't need it to go faster, I don't need it to corner better, I just want a little peace of mind when I take the car out to drive. But thank you for your valuable comments which had nothing to do with my original post
I’ve seen someone else mention this opinion here as well, but isn’t that the point of a radiator cap?
This, in a nutshell.
Nothing at all wrong with the metal tanks as long as you realise that you don't have the added protection of the tank failing before the radiator. Simply treat your cap as a maintenance item, and replace it as such.
It’s not a matter if the plastic tank will fail, it’s a matter of when it will fail. Hence the reason I preemptively changed to a metal tank. I also carry a spare cap. If one puts a pencil to it, the miniscule investment in a metal tank and spare cape far out weighs the major inconveniences and associated repair expenses of a tank failure in the middle of no where USA, at night, in a snow storm. A mere ounce of prevention in this matter is worth far more than a pound of cure.
Seems that adding a bunch of unnecessary weight to a low powered car is counterintuitive !
After all, it takes more horsepower to haul more weight.
Yeah, the aluminum tanks additional weight is small, but...adding oz's here, and oz's there, all of a sudden add up to pounds. A coupla pounds here, and a coupla pounds there...NOW...NEED MORE POWER..!
Beside, what does an aluminum tank do that a plastic tank cannot ? Well, beside maybe (once in a VERY great while) breaking the bonded seam . Doesn't help you go faster, doesn't help you corner faster (see sentence above), doesn't give the engine more power...all...no.
Brighter/shiny, some think it's cooler looking, race cars have aluminum tanks, can be painted, can be polished (the original post...they ARE polished, NOT chromed), can have a sand blasted finish, all to look cool, or pretty.
Yeah, my JCW still has the old low class, factory plastic.
Mike
when you have over 10k or so into an engine. Why would you skimp out on upgrading the prone to splitting 2x piece stock tanks?? It only takes 1x time.... and imo for the price and how MUCH NICER they make the engine bay look.. imo it's a must do mod..
Are you running a spoiler ? That too is pretty much just for looks on our cars but we all run them.. and alot of us put bigger ones on.. why ? Because it's our car and we like it..it doesn't always need to " make it go faster " in order to be enjoyed.. lol 3/4 of my mods do nothing but I love how it now looks and runs..
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Oct 12, 2022 at 12:03 PM.
I'm trying to avoid a problem before it happens....last thing I need is to be out somewhere in the car and have the plastic tank break open on me.....mine isn't leaking yet either, I am glad yours is still holding up...but there are many that have not
I also don't need it to go faster, I don't need it to corner better, I just want a little peace of mind when I take the car out to drive. But thank you for your valuable comments which had nothing to do with my original post
Bryan
let is know how install went and post a few pics plz..
If I didn't already have the very same set-up, I'd buy Oldboy Speedwell's CANTON and cap. That's a good deal! The standard flange on the CANTON allows you to use a standard coolant system pressure tester whereas the OEM plastic tank requires an adapter that most testers don't come with. Also, the overflow fitting on the neck of the CANTON, allows me to attach a clear plastic ketchup/mustard dispenser with a length of clear tubing as a "catch tank". So many folks have coolant burps because they overfill. I use a piece of wooden dowel marked about 1 inch from the end as my gauge. When cold, that's the proper level in the tank.
The two new metal tanks arrived today.....they look good....won't be installing them for a while, but I will post pics when installed
Bryan (I did not buy the two tanks in my first post at the top, I bought the ones that MiniManAdam bought and provided the links to purchase)
nice....
Btw I fill my tank just enough to cover the sight glass so you know if you've lost coolant or something and its not too full then either..
Goodluck !!!!
I have had the black (round) ebay one for a couple of years. I get overflows sometimes, and think I am going back to a new stock one so that I can more easily assess the coolant level.
I have had the black (round) ebay one for a couple of years. I get overflows sometimes, and think I am going back to a new stock one so that I can more easily assess the coolant level.
how much are you filling it ? They should only be filled halfway max just like the stock so there's room fir expansion.
