R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 2006 R53 overheating questions

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Old Jan 2, 2022 | 05:50 PM
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2006 R53 overheating questions

Long story short... The T-connector that connects the overflow tank to the rest of the coolant system broke while my daughter was driving the Mini. I was away at work so I told her let it cool all the way down and nurse it back home - 2 miles - and stop and let it cool when the temp gauge peaked. I realize now that trusting her to do this without extensive overheating may have caused head and/or cylinder damage. Thus, after replacing the T-connector the car has been having an overheating issue. Today, I attempted to bleed the system. I was able to bleed from the 8mm bolt but, as I ran the car for about 20 minutes with the front bleeder at the radiator removed I didn't see any coolant pass through until I turned the blower on - and the some coolant showed. I am thinking this might be caused by a bad thermostat. Does anyone have knowledge about what might cause minimal coolant to flow past the front radiator hose bleeder?
I then attempted to connect my Motive Products power bleeder to the reservoir to pressure test the system. Unfortunately, I could not get past a leak between the bleeder's cap and the reservoir - I'd like to be able to test the system to see if the pressure drops and possible if this motor is done.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2022 | 09:56 PM
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BlwnAway
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From: Arnold, MO.
Originally Posted by BadMotoFo
I am thinking this might be caused by a bad thermostat. Does anyone have knowledge about what might cause minimal coolant to flow past the front radiator hose bleeder?
Usually either a closed thermostat, low fluid level / air in the system.

FYI, in high overheat situations you're normally looking at a head gasket minimum, and quite often Head work from warping. (first gen Mini Heads are fairly soft and warp easily) But not normally any short block work.
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Old Jan 3, 2022 | 02:59 AM
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From: Northern MA, USA
Try topping the expansion tank full up & squeeze the top hose to 'pump' the coolant around while you bleed it.
Reset the tank coolant level once you're done.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2022 | 07:18 AM
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ssoliman
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I was able to rent (free) a presure tester at autozone

The bleed process is specific and can be found in TIS or Bentley
 

Last edited by ssoliman; Jan 4, 2022 at 08:24 AM.
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Old Jan 3, 2022 | 10:41 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. Thermostats are relatively cheap so I will replace. And I will check my local O'reily for a pressure tester. I'm hoping for the best but prepared for the worst…
 
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Old Jan 24, 2022 | 06:35 PM
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Conclusion?

Originally Posted by BadMotoFo
Thanks for the feedback. Thermostats are relatively cheap so I will replace. And I will check my local O'reily for a pressure tester. I'm hoping for the best but prepared for the worst…
Have you resolved this issue yet?

I just experienced this on my way home from work tonight. I got away with an overheat issue (hose split open) 4 years ago with just replace that hose. I fear tonight's broken tee may mean head gasket and machine the head flat.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2022 | 05:36 PM
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Work is busy so my rate of progress is very slow. I replaced the thermostat but that did not resolve the issue. However, when I removed the housing, I captured the coolant and upon pouring the contents through a strainer there was sediment and small pieces in the cloth I used. I spoke to a guy at Pelican Parts and he said he'd seen similar when a OEM water pump let go. I removed the water pump but the plastic rotor is completely intact. I will install the water pump and if still the overheating/no coolant coming out of the front bleed screw I believe I will have to swallow my pride and take it to a shop.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2022 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by BadMotoFo
Work is busy so my rate of progress is very slow. I replaced the thermostat but that did not resolve the issue. However, when I removed the housing, I captured the coolant and upon pouring the contents through a strainer there was sediment and small pieces in the cloth I used. I spoke to a guy at Pelican Parts and he said he'd seen similar when a OEM water pump let go. I removed the water pump but the plastic rotor is completely intact. I will install the water pump and if still the overheating/no coolant coming out of the front bleed screw I believe I will have to swallow my pride and take it to a shop.
OK. Next Saturday (2/5) I will have my car in the shop to replace all (3) of those plastic tee's and most of the hoses. I pretty much ordered all the hoses and tee's for my car from FCP Euro since they are all original from 2003. I replaced my water pump, thermostat housing and radiator about a year ago when I replaced my supercharger.

I drove my Mini home about 3 hours after the overheat (it happened about a mile from home) and it drove fine. I have worked on cars that have overheated and they ran just fine until the engine got warm, so I'll road test my car once I replace the hoses, fill the coolant (I have a vacuum filler) and then pressure test the system before a road test of about 20 miles. If that road test is successful, I'll be cautiously optimistic that head work will be unnecessary.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2022 | 04:52 PM
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BlwnAway
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From: Arnold, MO.
Originally Posted by ghostwrench
If that road test is successful, I'll be cautiously optimistic that head work will be unnecessary.
Lol...
Now there's a phrase uttered by many a Mini owner...

A little luck never hurts, so good luck.....
 
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