Well after almost 2 years of owning my car it's been a pure miracle I haven't lost my 1x key I have that came with the car.. its time to FINALLY get that normal key. I think I only have the spare as it ONLY locks the doors and has no other button options on the key.
what is the most economical ( cheapest route) to obtain a new , fully functional key and to finally be able to have my spare key be an actual spare not my cars only life line.
please don't say the stealership us the only route because they're ridiculous on their pricing but if I gotta I gotta.
plz chime in and educate this Foo !

 

A few questions-

Year?

Key type- how many buttons? Pic could be helpful.

With most Gen1 keys, there are 3 separate and distinct systems:

1. The metal blade of the key- that's easy.
2. The transmitter in the fob for lock/unlock
3. The immobilizer chip that is read by the car to allow the starter to work.

Your spare key that you say locks/unlocks the doors- does it do that with the transmitter, or with the metal blade? Can you use that spare key (metal blade)in the ignition, and if you do, will it start the car? If it does not start the car, is that because the metal blade does not mechanically operate the tumbler assembly, or because it can, but the car won't turn over? In the second case, bring your primary key in close proximity to the spare that's in your ignition- does the car start then? If so, that means you have 1 immobilizer chip available to you.

Those chips are difficult to replace. In fact, it's my understanding you cannot, you need to buy new key(s) and code the ECU(s) to the new ones. A workaround (and this is what I'd do) is to remove the immobilizer chip from your key shell and securely fasten it to the car in close proximity to the ignition switch. Yes, it will compromise security somewhat. But it ALSO means you're only buying an additional metal blade- and that's cheap.

 

I only have the blade attached to the plastic housing wich has just a lock button on it and that's it.. it still starts my car thankfully.
so I could take out the transponder and put that in the ignition area and then just have metal blades cut ? I don't fear my car getting stolen

 

Look closely- it should have 2 buttons at least- one has Mini wings,(yes, that's a button) the other a lock symbol.

Or you have a 3 button key- one in the center and another above and below.

Year??

Do either successfully actuate remote lock/unlock?

 

I will take a pic later when I go to check on my car but it only has 1x button and it's a lock button that's to the top left of the mini logo . I'm pretty sure it's a courtesy key aka spare

 

I paid less than $150 shipped from minipartsdirect.com (dealer subsidiary)

It was pre cut, pre programmed and ready to use ... original BMW/MINI part.

I still think these are a bit pricey ... but I thought worth it in the scheme of things for reliability....

 

I will check them out,thx. 150$ isn't bad .
here's my key btw

 

I believe your '05 key is different from the 2-button key he has, yes? You have a 3-button?

 

That key looks like a two button to me.

 

Yes, mine is the 3 button ( My 53's are only LCI ) ... I believe the 2-button costs less.

https://parts.miniofkennesaw.com/oem...er-61317072104 $145.00

https://parts.minipeabody.com/p/4947...317072104.html $145.00

https://www.oempartsource.com/oem-pa...er-61317072104 $135.00

You need to provide them with ID and ownership doc (images) before they will finalize your order.


Good write up here on NAM..
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...tton-keys.html



Your key lanyard is a bit spooky if read the wrong way...
.

 

Mine were both 2-button like the photo. Have not lost one yet since 2003, but would be nice to know how much one of these 2-button keys costs complete.

 

how do you see 2x buttons? Unless I'M missing something That's the mini logo and just a lock button on mine.

 

The MINI logo (your key is missing the emblem) is the unlock door/hatch button. On the later 3 button remotes it’s the lock button along with the door/hatch unlock button and a hatch only unlock button.

On the 2 button remote, holding unlock can pop the hatch and on the 3 button it can open the windows and sunroof. The holding option can be de-activated in the BCM for both types of remotes. The additional hatch button gives power to the button on the hatch, but does not pop it if held. The hatch will relock after closing or after about 15 seconds if the hatch is never opened.

 

I believe replacing the pre-facelift (2 button) key also requires taking it to a dealer and paying to have the functionality of the key programmed. The nearest dealer to me in SoCal charges $195 to this.

 

If you order from any of the links I put above... the key arrives ready to use on your car... NO trips to the dealer or other programming needed 🤙

 

Three dealers have told me otherwise. I'm awaiting call back from one of the parts places in the links you provided.

The following post in the thread link you previously provided also indicates that dealer programming is needed to make the lock/unlock feature work on pre-facelift keys but not on facelift keys:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4367124

 

The remote locking on the 3-button keys can apparently be programmed with the chicken dance as outlined in this very informative document: https://sites.google.com/site/miniandlandroverremotekeys/ One can buy a fob with the transmitter from an aftermarket source and make it work as a remote locking, but it will only work to start the car if the proper chip is installed.


BUT!

The 2-button keys cannot. They need to be programmed by the dealer in a far more expensive manner.

 

On my two-button keys, the wings button rolls down the windows when held.

 

Haha seriously the logo is a button ????? Lol REALLY !!!! I FIND THIS OUT OVER A YEAR LATER . HAHAHAHA eat this one up guys...