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Hello all, doing some upgrades and 100k service to my 2005 Mini R53s installing an ATI Super damper 2% pulley. Got old pulley off no problem, went to put new pulley on with Way motor works Allen bolt and new crank bolt. Cant for the life of me get new pulley on. Manual trans so put it in 6th gear, holding brake pedal down with stick, have 500ft/lbs impact on Allen bolt and it won’t budge. Do I need a larger impact gun ? Tried breaker bar but the rotors start to slip. Pulley seems to be the right model. Oiled pulley and crank, what gives? Thanks in advance-E
Someone correct me if I have the temp and time wrong but I believe you need to heat (in the oven) the crank pulley at 350 degrees for 15 minutes in order to expand it. It should then be easier to install.
The pulley didn't move at all, stopped moving after a little bit with the allen bolt, or will not go further with the new crank bolt?
The install steps are normally heat the pulley, install part way with a longer/allen bolt, then fully install and torque with the factory crank bolt. There's also a special tool to hold the crank pulley, but I'm not sure if it fits the ATI, or if an adapter would be needed. Putting it into high gear and pressing on the brake pedal as you did usually works.
This is how I did it. I did not need to press the brake pedal, but it might help if installation is tight. Degrease the pulley and crank shaft, as this might bite you in the *** later.
Ok thanks everyone! Is it agreed to heat the pulley to 350 degrees for 15 minutes? The ATI instructions said nothing about any of that ,they mainly talked about chevrolet engines. Nothing about Mini install.
You have something wrong then as I've installed hundreds of them and never had an issue once. Also I've never heated them up as I just cold press them on and it works. So maybe it's not straight or something else.
Well got crank pulley on straight, like everyone said didn’t go on too hard . But of course I had to keep going and do this ... such a dumb @ss!
Picture definitely worth a thousand words😐😐
any thoughts on how to get rest of bolt out? Drill center then easy out? Was all set and then gave myself hours worth of fun....
ugh, that sucks! I would say proceed with extreme caution. If you screw this up, you're looking at a new crank/motor. The method that I've had the most success with is using left handed drill bits and progressively larger drill bits. The first hole is the most crucial. you want it to be in the exact center, and the worst thing you could do is break a drill bit or eazy out in there.
Go slow with firm but not too much pressure on the drill and lube wouldn't hurt. I'm sure there's a special cutting oil, but I usually use wd-40 because that's what I have.
The other idea is to pull the pulley off and see if you can get a hold of the part of the bolt that's sticking out. just depends on if you think theres much sticking out and if you can get the pulley off.
remove the damper and drill it out with a reverse drill bit and bolt extractor.
buy the correct tool to reinstall the damper, and make sure you heat up the damper before you install it, the correct tool comes in timing chain kits, it's the tool that's on the left of this picture. they have the bearing nut installed backwards on this picture but that's the right tool
So after reading posts,I had the pulley on slightly crooked and once it was straight it went right on. I did heat it for 15 min to 250 degrees. Broke bolt by to much impact driver, should have used torque wrench. Here’s how I removed broken bolt:
1) used a 31/64” drill bit to put centering mark on the broken bolt, it broke where the threads start.
2) found a bushing ( it is a brake line fitting) wrapped it in electric tape slightly to make a guide for a 3/16” drill bit, drilled shallow hole
3) switched to 1/4” left hand bit and broken bolt came right out!! - 🤦🏻♂️ Miracle!!
Thanks everyone for all the help, hope won’t do something this dumb again! -E