I planned on installing an ATI damper this past weekend.

While removing the old pulley i had about a 1/8 a turn of elastic movement with both front rotors locks with screwdriver in the veins and the gearbox in 6th. I got angry an just bought an electric impact wrench and took the old pulley off. i then realized that i was going to have the same trouble installing the new pulley. I tried anyways, now i have the new pulley on maby a 1/5 the way and i can no longer apply enough torque to the bolt.

It is on stands in a friends garage and i would like to get it out as soon as i can.

Is there some other way i can keep the crank from moving?

Can i get a Grade 8 M12 x 100mm hex bolt and use the impact wrench to install the pulley?

Can i install the new crank bolt with an impact wrench if back it off and torque it near the end?

I am just super frustrated right now, it seems every time i try to fix something it becomes a struggle. Everything seems easier when you read about it on the internet

-Jonathan

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...oem-tools.html

Best bet would be to get a crank pulley puller, like a crow's foot and check out what the OP did on the link I posted. That's how I did my ATI damper. Picked up a crow's foot at an autozone and bolts at a hardware shop.

 

Yeah i did that. I have the old one off.

i cant figure out why my crank is still moving though. I have to be missing something

 

To install the pulley I used a three step approach. 1. I heated the center of the pulley with a heat gun. 2. I used the bolt provided with the ATI pulley (longer than the OEM bolt) to start the pulley onto the crankshaft. The pulley went on relatively easy. My son just pressed the brake pedal to keep the crank from tuning. I then backed out the pulley bolt with son pressing brake pedal. 3. I installed the OEM bolt and and torqued it down with my son pressing hard on the brakes. I do have large rotors and 4-piston calipers so maybe that helped apply more torque to keep everything from spinning.

 

Stomping on the pedals should hold the thing in gear, try reverse (No clues if it helps) worse comes to worse you can use an air gun. Lord knows any garage would. Don't believe me? Ask them where the torque wrench is and it will take them 5 mins to find it. I doubt one out of ten shops use a torque wrench on any customers car.

I have gotten pretty good with my air gun. I put wheels on with the gun, and tighten the last bit with the wrench. Last weekend I had all just shy of 82 ft lbs on 7 of 8 and only one over by about 4 lbs. For my gun, once it stops spinning fast, and starts to hammer, the outside has to move about 1/10th of a turn. That's how I do it by watching the rotation.

 

6th gear and applying the brakes should definitely hold the crank pulley in place. I've done that for the ATI damper and also when I was taking off the timing chain for a headgasket change.

 

I did mine over the w/e and thats how we did it, just have someone stand on the brakes, while it's in gear.

I would use the impact as a last report, if something isn't quite right it will be harder to catch, mine went on with no heat at all.

 

I did mine back in October. Didn't have any problems getting it back on. Used the same sort of home made tools that are in the link that kenshin posted. Had a friend stand on the brake pedal while I torked it down. That installer that is in that link was a life saver.

 

Detroittuned has the pulley removal / install tool available for rent for $30. I used that with a breaker bar while my wife stood on the brakes with transmission in 6th. Was still a pain in the ***, but it got the job done.

-Mike

http://www.detroittuned.com/shop/?productID=427

 

You don't need to heat it to press it on. I never heat them up, just use the long bolt install tool and press it on. You can just use the long bolt that comes with the ATI, or just use the original bolt, then take it out and use a new bolt once you have it pressed on.