Ok, bought an 03 on the cheap needing a clutch replacement, had the car torn down for a few weeks while doing that, suspension parts, radiator, and other goodies, back together rode great for a few weeks, then needed a little heat. No love.

Found the heater core clogged with stop leak (I hate that crap) replaced. Put everything back together, all good, but the damn thing blows so much air it actually bends the cheap plastic actuator rod going to blend door, and allows blend door to open.

Aside from pinning this arm in place so that I have great heat (right now its ok) does anyone have any thoughts on why this would blow so much air it actually forces the blend door open to the cool position? In order to get nice hot air out of vents I need to only have blower at setting 1. If I turn it up it forces that blend door open and the hot air becomes warm. I can manually hold the door closed, but that doesnt make for an easy drive.'

I dont see a provision for where a spring may have gone. So I am lost as to how/why this would happen. Should I try to have a metal arm fabricated?

 

Use this link and see if you can possibly find a missing part that could cause your heating issue:

https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/e...53/HC/RE33/64/

 

Do you have the auto or standard ac? I believe you are talking about the temp mixing door. The air blend door is the outside / inside air control or recirculation

 

I am familiar with those explosions as I use Realoem.com, which is set up the same way ETK was when I worked for bimmer years ago. There is nothing missing that I can tell.

 

Tomato tomato,,,, hmm that doesn't work that well typing it out now does it. I've been in the parts business since 97 with an aftermarket import specialist, and OE companies, including Toyota, BMW, Buick, Gmc, and now Freightliner. We have always called the temp door the blend door as it blends hot air and cold air, the door for fresh or cabin air, called the recirc door, and the door that controls defrost, face, feet, the mode door. I say the recirc door cant be a blend door, because it doesn't really blend anything. Its either fresh air or recirculating cabin air, there is no in between, no blend. That being said, I am speaking of the temp door.

When the blower is set to anything above 3, it pushes too much air forcing the temp door to open combining (blending) the hot and the cold air.

I have auto temp on this rig, as far as I can tell it doesn't matter much, as the parts kit they sell (doors rods gears bimmer part #64 11 6 910 916) is the same whether its auto temp or manual temp. So the same cheap plastic rod will be there no matter what.

The actuator completely closes and opens the door, but when the high blower setting is used the actuating rod bends and allows the door to open a little allowing non heated air into the cabin as well.

 

Is the temp controlled by an electric **** or a manual ****? There are two different AC systems in the minis...

the standard system, as they call it is actuated by a physical cable. The automatic system is actuated by a motor and a plastic link...

in any case, the door should not open on its own without the cable or link being loose.

do you see the temp **** move as the air forces the door open?

 

As stated previously I have auto temp.

I am aware the door should not open on its own, that's my damn problem. The blower is moving sooo much air it is forcing the door open, not a lot, but enough to make a noticeable difference. This is my issue this shouldn't happen, only thing I see holding it is the cheap plastic rod running to the actuator, and it is bending on High blower setting causing the door to open slightly and allowing the ambient air in with the hot air.

 

Two videos, one is actuating arm off, so that you can see even at setting 1 the blower moves the door open. I don't understand what I am missing, in the closed position, max heat, temp HI (auto temp) the door is closed but when you turn up the blower even to 1 it opens the door.

Translate that to video 2 with actuating arm on. At setting 1 blower it can hold the door shut, but as you increase blower speed, it opens up the door slightly. This causes ambient air to blend with hot air, thus bringing my heat down.

 

And no videos..... not sure what I am doing wrong on this.... will have to figure it out and post them later.

Upload button doesn't seem to do anything, just closes the window,,,,, probably not enough posts yet?

 

Thanks for the link!

I have been using this one > https://mini.7zap.com/en/mini/r53/cooper+s/

 

roger that. Ok some videos might help when ur able...

the only other thing I can imagine is that the door is damaged. I’ve not seen the door but maybe it has rubber flaps (or similar), for sealing, that might keep the door from moving wo greater force (only moves with the motor). That’s a guess

 

Trust me Ive had this thing torn down. There is nothing broken in the heater box.

 

hmmmm, photo works, lets try those videos.

Appears I wasn't waiting long enough.

Seems as though I've deleted the video without the rod attached. For time purposes and I don't feel like going out again, with the rod off, the blower just opens the door right up. Something just seems wrong about this.

 

can't open wmv on my Mac or iPhone :/

 

Well thats not helpful. LOL

What kind can you view Ill try to convert tonight?

 

i want to say .mov and .mpeg work on a Mac. Although, I thought QuickTime supported wmv files, damn apple lol

 

I recently fixed my heat issue, as you noticed. In my case it was electrical. However when I removed the glove box the first thing I noticed was the the link arm was completely detached from the motor / actuator.

also tried removing and replacing the motor first...turned out to be the control panel.

I think your issue is physical

 

Now I can’t remember, did you run the calibration on the control panel?

there are three diagnostic modes from the control panel...

 

LOL, I found the calibration screen thing while browsing youtube. Performed calibrations, and all performed perfectly, everything moves as it should. Of course windows movie maker apparently will only make in .avi or mpg4 the latter of which will not upload to here. So I will try to find another program to convert the files. Unfortunately with moving 3 times in thed last 4 years, cash is tight and we are on a 10 yr old laptop with win7, so finding programs to work with this and not downloading a virus is getting challenging.

It is physical, and oddly what I noticed today driving home from work in 61 degree weather and heat off, was that it was actually letting hotter air in than if I had the heat on.... GAH!

 

am I the only one that can’t view the video?

based on your last statement I’d say the link is disconnected from the arm at the motor or the door. Or something similar.

does the link move freely?

mine was completely disconnected when I first looked at it. With it disconnected the door would fall down (cold) and the ac was working. Door up (link up) is hot

 

Yes everything is connected, I wont lie, when I reassembled the dash I did leave a few things disconnected, drove me batty for a couple hours, but that is not the case now.