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Hello all, my heater is not working. 2006 R50 with the automatic AC system. I have one related code (from inpa):
12 Engine Temperature Mixing Flap (short circuit to ground)
Does this mean what I think it means?
Well what do you think it means?
To me it means the temperature blend door isn't moving as expected. I suspect the damper motor that is supposed to move the door is faulty. I don't know about on Mini's but this motor can be a real hassle to get to on some cars but not on others.
For a no heat concern, I would verify your engine coolant level is correct and that it is flowing to and through the heater core. If that checks out, you will probably need to replace the temperature blend door damper motor.
To me it means the temperature blend door isn't moving as expected. I suspect the damper motor that is supposed to move the door is faulty. I don't know about on Mini's but this motor can be a real hassle to get to onsome cars but not on others.
For a no heat concern, I would verify your engine coolant level is correct and that it is flowing to and through the heater core. If that checks out, you will probably need to replace the temperature blend door damper motor.
yep that is what I was thinking. now I need to find out where it is. my luck, the entire dash will need to come out
weird that I search this code here on the forum and nothing. I'm the first one with this issue? JOY
Thought I would update you as I said I would on my thread. Took it to the shop today and apparently my blend door had popped off its hinges because of my own stupidity. :D I had installed the wire for my dashcam too close to the blend door, so the wire got caught on it, wouldn't let it move, and popped it off the hinge. That explains no error codes. Btw, if it helps you out, from what the mechanic showed me the blend door is in the left side footwell on the passenger side behind the glovebox. Doesn't seem that hard to get to
Last edited by imaslowdriver; Nov 18, 2020 at 12:16 PM.
Thought I would update you as I said I would on my thread. Took it to the shop today and apparently my blend door had popped off its hinges because of my own stupidity. :D I had installed the wire for my dashcam too close to the blend door, so the wire got caught on it, wouldn't let it move, and popped it off the hinge. That explains no error codes. Btw, if it helps you out, from what the mechanic showed me the blend door is in the left side footwell on the passenger side behind the glovebox. Doesn't seem that hard to get to
awesome news! Thank you 🙏
when I get to this I will post updates. Very pleased to hear the dash does not have to come out
I ran the diagnostic test on the automatic climate control unit, by pressing and holding the AC button and +fan speed buttons for 3 secs or so...more details on this if anyone is interested.
Anyhow I get error code FF 12. I have no idea what 12 means. The chart I have (from TIS I believe) only goes up to error 10. So thats a mystery. Anyone know what error 12 is?
I also ran the calibration. Still no heat.
So next, I took out the glovebox. The temperature blend door motor is in fact reachable with the glovebox out. Pulled the motor out with the plug still attached and tested. Not moving. Also there is a plastic connecting link or rod that was disconnected. That link runs from the motor to the temp door lever to open the temp door.
So now, I know the motor is not working, however I do feel a vibration or a buzzing / pulsing on the temp door motor when turning up the heat on the control panel.
But get this, I pulled the motor and applied 9volts and ground to two pins (I'll post a pic), and the motor / lever moves as expected. It appears to be working.
So maybe it is wiring at fault. I tested for volts on the same two pins on the motor plug. I get ghost volts, sometimes I get ground, and when I turn the heat up I do see 11, 12 volts. So not sure here.
Anyone want to take a guess? Thoughts? Anything appreciated.
You're definitely not the first person with this issue or something similar. I used to have a 2003 R53 and I bought the car used in the summer. Turned the heat on in September (never tested it when I Was buying) and no heat. It ended up being all the hinges and ahtnot that open all of the flaps behind the dash. I had to remove the whole dash and I hated every minute of it. I eventually got it all sorted, but is has happened and ECS sells the entire kit to replace all of the hinges. here: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/64116910916/
It sounds like this isn't your problem though and it's that motor for sure. I wish I could be more help. Keep us updated.
You're definitely not the first person with this issue or something similar. I used to have a 2003 R53 and I bought the car used in the summer. Turned the heat on in September (never tested it when I Was buying) and no heat. It ended up being all the hinges and ahtnot that open all of the flaps behind the dash. I had to remove the whole dash and I hated every minute of it. I eventually got it all sorted, but is has happened and ECS sells the entire kit to replace all of the hinges. here: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/64116910916/
It sounds like this isn't your problem though and it's that motor for sure. I wish I could be more help. Keep us updated.
thank you. Will def update.
really hoping it is the motor and not the wiring...
Found this video on the Automatic Climate Control secret screen.
May save you and others a lot of frustration and swearing when trying to troubleshoot this beast.
Thank you for this, Dan. I did find this in TIS.
Just fyi for people with "auto" and "defrost" on the top left toggle button. (rather then "auto" and "off") Press the *(snow flake) and the + fan button...the rest is much the same. I have an error code 10 or 12, can't remember now. I will edit this after looking at my prior post...
Edit: yes error 12. don't know what that means. anyone know?
The IHKA (Automatic Climate Control) troubleshooting guide starts at the bottom of page 24. There isn’t any reference to a code above code 10, but this isn’t the first time I’ve come across a guide with incomplete information.
Someday someone will find it really useful!
Edit: Re-reading this thread from the top, the first post mentioned Code 12, as found by the INPA software. I’d look closely at the wiring harness, you may find a bad connection in one of the connectors or a damaged wire.
The short circuit could be in the actuator itself, has your new one arrived?
Last edited by Dan_in_WA; Dec 14, 2020 at 11:19 PM.
The IHKA (Automatic Climate Control) troubleshooting guide starts at the bottom of page 24. There isn’t any reference to a code above code 10, but this isn’t the first time I’ve come across a guide with incomplete information.
Someday someone will find it really useful!
Edit: Re-reading this thread from the top, the first post mentioned Code 12, as found by the INPA software. I’d look closely at the wiring harness, you may find a bad connection in one of the connectors or a damaged wire.
The short circuit could be in the actuator itself, has your new one arrived?
Thank you for this reply.
code 12 is from the diagnostic test on the ac control unit.
inpa gave the error as in the snapshot above.
the new (used) motor has arrived. I have not tried it yet. I will def update!
code 12 is from the diagnostic test on the ac control unit.
inpa gave the error as in the snapshot above.
the new (used) motor has arrived. I have not tried it yet. I will def update!
make sure you try "helping" the blend adjust arm first it's a pretty common fault and will throw a code but usually it just needs some assistance once in a while
make sure you try "helping" the blend adjust arm first it's a pretty common fault and will throw a code but usually it just needs some assistance once in a while
yes sir. in my case the link that connects to the arm was not even connected at the motor...someone had been in there before...
Update: over the weekend I tried the new motor. I plugged in the new motor. Turned the key to position 2. The arm on the motor went from the down position (heat on) to the top position (heat off) and stopped. I thought, "damn skippy, I'm in business"! Movement!
no, no I am not in business.
I could not get it to move again. I started the car. put the temp setting up to "hi" and nothing. ran diag from the control unit, diag 1 outputs FF 01, and FF 12 still. Diag 2 fails to complete calibration still, and diag 3 does nothing when manually going from cold to hot...no movement on the motor.
So it does not appear to be the motor. Pulled on the wires at the plug a bit and traced them back as far as I could see and they look fine.
I thought I might take off the control unit and check the wiring on the back next.
Anyone have any ideas or things I could try? REALLY don't want to go to the dealer.
I'm attaching the wire diagram that I have for the HVAC system. Admittedly I am not the best with electrical troubleshooting. Looking for the next step here...what would be possible next steps?
I do have a multimeter and an understanding of the basics.
In the first post, INPA says there’s a short to ground.
With the car turned off and the key out, I’d try checking resistance between ground and each of the pins in the wiring harness connector as shown in post #7.
Then check those results against the other connector, for the other actuator door that is in good working order.
The resistance tests may point out a grounded wire at the connector. It may be a solid ground of around an ohm or less, or could be as high as a few hundred ohms. These computer modules can be sensitive that way. Comparing the resistance readings between the good connector and problem connector will hopefully point out whether there’s a problem or not.
One more thing to try, is to run diagnostics again with the plug out of the problem actuator, and see if code 12 goes away. Naturally there will be other codes come up, but I’m curious to see if code 12 disappears.
In the first post, INPA says there’s a short to ground.
With the car turned off and the key out, I’d try checking resistance between ground and each of the pins in the wiring harness connector as shown in post #7.
Then check those results against the other connector, for the other actuator door that is in good working order.
The resistance tests may point out a grounded wire at the connector. It may be a solid ground of around an ohm or less, or could be as high as a few hundred ohms. These computer modules can be sensitive that way. Comparing the resistance readings between the good connector and problem connector will hopefully point out whether there’s a problem or not.
One more thing to try, is to run diagnostics again with the plug out of the problem actuator, and see if code 12 goes away. Naturally there will be other codes come up, but I’m curious to see if code 12 disappears.
Ok, back to my Christmas food coma...
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
thank you for the reply here, Dan. This gives me some additional things to try.
I will update with results.
It may take me some time before I can get back to it. Will be traveling for the next week visiting some family...
I have a 2003 R50 It looks like the hot cold blend door motor just unclips, is this correct? and the later MINIs are held with 3 screws, is this correct?
