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Hello. I'm wondering if any immediate maintenance (mainly preventative) items need to be addressed? I'm trying to learn what I can, but I'm just not very familiar with these superchargers (2005 S JCW). I'm very familiar with the BMW e46 world and much of the pm is the same. Here is a list of things done since 95K on the clock. I bought at 125K and now have 130K.
Stuff done....Replaced belt tensioner, serpentine belt, spark plugs, crank position sensor O ring, oil pan gasket, oil dipstick O ring, VCG and 1 vacuum hose. Oil change 5W30 Full synthetic, complete coolant flush, transmission flush, oiled super charger, air/cabin filter replaced. Tightened super charger bolts. Installed new M control arm bushings, power steering pump, right motor mount, inner/outer ball joints. Replaced left/right intercooler boots. Replaced rear brake pads and sensor. Replaced vibration dampener. Replaced oil pressure switch. Replaced passenger axle boot. Replaced oil cooler gaskets. Installed new expansion tank cap. I'm under the impression the PO did most of this as preventive.
Does anyone see anything that jumps out at you that needs to be looked at? Thanks for the input.
Hello. I'm wondering if any immediate maintenance (mainly preventative) items need to be addressed? I'm trying to learn what I can, but I'm just not very familiar with these superchargers (2005 S JCW). I'm very familiar with the BMW e46 world and much of the pm is the same. Here is a list of things done since 95K on the clock. I bought at 125K and now have 130K.
Stuff done....Replaced belt tensioner, serpentine belt, spark plugs, crank position sensor O ring, oil pan gasket, oil dipstick O ring, VCG and 1 vacuum hose. Oil change 5W30 Full synthetic, complete coolant flush, transmission flush, oiled super charger, air/cabin filter replaced. Tightened super charger bolts. Installed new M control arm bushings, power steering pump, right motor mount, inner/outer ball joints. Replaced left/right intercooler boots. Replaced rear brake pads and sensor. Replaced vibration dampener. Replaced oil pressure switch. Replaced passenger axle boot. Replaced oil cooler gaskets. Installed new expansion tank cap. I'm under the impression the PO did most of this as preventive.
Does anyone see anything that jumps out at you that needs to be looked at? Thanks for the input.
Nice to see another E46 owner! Looks like you've covered most of the major stuff. One item that gets overlooked is the timing chain tensioner. At that mileage I would recommend swapping it out as a safety measure. It takes about 10 minutes to do, and can be accessed from the top of the motor (you'll be working blind) with one bolt to remove and it pops out.
Nice to see another E46 owner! Looks like you've covered most of the major stuff. One item that gets overlooked is the timing chain tensioner. At that mileage I would recommend swapping it out as a safety measure. It takes about 10 minutes to do, and can be accessed from the top of the motor (you'll be working blind) with one bolt to remove and it pops out.
OK! Thanks. Is that the tensioner that takes a special tool? Kinda like the "fan clutch" tool on the e46?
Vibration dampener you mean the crank pulley? If so, good
Radiator might leak on the joints of the flange (bolted on with O-rings). Also O ring behind the flange on the engine where the water pump connects. But also the water pump, the thermostat + thermostat housing, the plastic dip stick, rocker cover gaskets, PCV valve
No, the timing chain tensioner is accessed on the back of the engine block near the oil cooler. Uses a socket and it helps to have a short wobble extension. You'll also most likely need a breaker bar or pipe extension because these things are in there very tight.
No, the timing chain tensioner is accessed on the back of the engine block near the oil cooler. Uses a socket and it helps to have a short wobble extension. You'll also most likely need a breaker bar or pipe extension because these things are in there very tight.
No, the timing chain tensioner is accessed on the back of the engine block near the oil cooler. Uses a socket and it helps to have a short wobble extension. You'll also most likely need a breaker bar or pipe extension because these things are in there very tight.
Would *hope* he would have addressed hoses when doing the cooling system flush, and replaced the expansion tank with aluminum and a new cap but probably not. Some people also preemptively replace the water pump, thermostat and housing around 100K, and install a brass burp valve on the upper hose connector (to replace the crappy European recycled plastic one from the factory) as well.
Replaced vibration dampener.
Good move, unless he replaced it with factory grade, in which case you have about 50K-60K miles before you should do it again safely. It was a built-in weak point, along with the coolant expansion tank. Next time get an ATI or PRW. Good time to go 2% oversized while you're at it if that's your thing.
Last edited by user 7389739; Nov 18, 2020 at 05:22 AM.
Would *hope* he would have addressed hoses when doing the cooling system flush, and replaced the expansion tank with aluminum and a new cap but probably not. Some people also preemptively replace the water pump, thermostat and housing around 100K, and install a brass burp valve on the upper hose connector (to replace the crappy European recycled plastic one from the factory) as well.
Good move, unless he replaced it with factory grade, in which case you have about 50K-60K miles before you should do it again safely. It was a built-in weak point, along with the coolant expansion tank. Next time get an ATI or PRW. Good time to go 2% oversized while you're at it if that's your thing.
You can possibly use a flashlight and look beneath the belt tensioner from the top of the motor. If not, you can pull the front passenger wheel and remove the wheel well liner to see if the crank pulley is original style or not.
ATI Super Damper:
Original MINI rubber damper:
If you have the ATI from the top you may be able to see the timing marks. Essentially the ATI or PRW are the long-term solutions whereas the OE rubber pulley will be a failure point again.
Mine went at 50K, suspect the previous owner tracked the car hard and I live in SoCal where rubber has about half the life as other geographic locations. YMMV but when it goes, it goes BIG. Hard limp home mode, no alternator charging, no AC, nasty smell of burning rubber. Major day ruiner. Get the ATI now and forget about it.
