R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Oil drippage all over

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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 02:26 PM
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Oil drippage all over

Jacked up the car today to do the supercharger pulley, and I find that the car is dripping oil and is soaked all around the edges of the oil pan into the lower engine mount. I thought that it was power steering fluid, but since I had the hoses replaced it's definitely oil seeping out from somewhere. I changed the lower engine mount since one of the rubber bits was torn, and both long bolts were soaked in oil on the threads.

I have a new crank position sensor seal ready to go in, but maybe the oil pan gasket is leaking as well? I just changed the oil too around 600 miles ago so maybe I'll wait till I have to change it again to do the oil pan gasket.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dayman
Jacked up the car today to do the supercharger pulley, and I find that the car is dripping oil and is soaked all around the edges of the oil pan into the lower engine mount. I thought that it was power steering fluid, but since I had the hoses replaced it's definitely oil seeping out from somewhere. I changed the lower engine mount since one of the rubber bits was torn, and both long bolts were soaked in oil on the threads.

I have a new crank position sensor seal ready to go in, but maybe the oil pan gasket is leaking as well? I just changed the oil too around 600 miles ago so maybe I'll wait till I have to change it again to do the oil pan gasket.
I'd recommend cleaning as much of the oil off as you can. That way you can watch exactly where the oil is coming from. How many miles on the car? At some point many of the gaskets will leak and need to be changed. Common ones that make a mess all over the bottom of the motor are: oil filter housing, oil pan, oil cooler o-rings, and apparently the crank sensor o-ring leak can blow back on the bottom of the pan.

Take a look at the journal thread in my signature for some pictures on all these jobs (except the crank sensor o-ring).
 
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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 07:38 PM
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Cam position sensor also a common leak. First step, CLEAN 🧼
 
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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 07:46 PM
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Check the back of of passengers side of the valve cover gasket...
 
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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tej98
I'd recommend cleaning as much of the oil off as you can. That way you can watch exactly where the oil is coming from. How many miles on the car? At some point many of the gaskets will leak and need to be changed. Common ones that make a mess all over the bottom of the motor are: oil filter housing, oil pan, oil cooler o-rings, and apparently the crank sensor o-ring leak can blow back on the bottom of the pan.

Take a look at the journal thread in my signature for some pictures on all these jobs (except the crank sensor o-ring).
It has 155k and some change on the odometer. So those gaskets are most likely due for a change. I figured it was the power steering fluid that was the majority of the leak, but apparently not.

I changed the valve cover gasket recently too.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dayman
It has 155k and some change on the odometer. So those gaskets are most likely due for a change. I figured it was the power steering fluid that was the majority of the leak, but apparently not.

I changed the valve cover gasket recently too.
Yeah, makes sense. I'd clean the bottom of the motor off first and investigate what is actually leaking to help prioritize the work. Then you can decide how many of the other seals you want to change preventively.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 09:45 PM
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Yeah, that stinks.
I noticed my first oil leak the other day. My 05 only has 20,0483 miles on it, and something's now leaking.

Mike
 
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Old Nov 8, 2020 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by OCR
Yeah, that stinks.
I noticed my first oil leak the other day. My 05 only has 20,0483 miles on it, and something's now leaking.

Mike
Honestly might just ignore the oil pan leak, and keep adding oil as needed because I've already put so much money into this car as it is.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2020 | 03:41 PM
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Is this your daily driver? If not, seals aren't very expensive, and if your handy with tools it's a good experience to get to know your R53 on a personal level. When I first bought mine, I replaced practically all the gaskets and hoses, minus the head gasket. Not a single leak since. They are a money pit, and I knew this going into it, but its so much fun to drive. I get most of my adrenaline rush on my bike, but this is the best thing on four wheels for street fun.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2020 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jk6672
Is this your daily driver? If not, seals aren't very expensive, and if your handy with tools it's a good experience to get to know your R53 on a personal level. When I first bought mine, I replaced practically all the gaskets and hoses, minus the head gasket. Not a single leak since. They are a money pit, and I knew this going into it, but its so much fun to drive. I get most of my adrenaline rush on my bike, but this is the best thing on four wheels for street fun.
Yeah it is. It's just difficult to find time to work on it, I might just end up having my local shop put the new gaskets in place once I get all of them. I wonder if it'd make sense to replace the oil pan itself since it's so old.

I noticed that it seemed a little wet on the passenger side valve cover gasket, where the cover dips down for the cam (I think?) even though that gasket is pretty much brand new. Maybe I didn't tighten the valve cover bolts enough, but they are on very tight already.

EDIT: Anyone know what the correct seal is for the oil cooler? Or a P/N?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 08:02 AM
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I might just end up having my local shop put the new gaskets in place once I get all of them. I wonder if it'd make sense to replace the oil pan itself since it's so old.
Oh get ready...

Maybe I didn't tighten the valve cover bolts enough, but they are on very tight already.
Or they were over- or unevenly tightened. Should be 9 ft-lb / 12N-m.
EDIT: Anyone know what the correct seal is for the oil cooler? Or a P/N?
Is this what you're looking for? If not they (and other vendors) also have the other ones - filter housing to block, filter cover gasket.etc.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/11427509261/
 

Last edited by user 7389739; Nov 9, 2020 at 08:07 AM.
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by RedSky455
Oh get ready...


Or they were over- or unevenly tightened. Should be 9 ft-lb / 12N-m.

Is this what you're looking for? If not they (and other vendors) also have the other ones - filter housing to block, filter cover gasket.etc.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/11427509261/
I was tightening down one of the (new) long valve cover bolts to the correct spec, when the torque wrench just started moving loosely. Turned out the lower half of the bolt snapped and is now stuck in the engine. This was a brand new genuine mini part from FCP. Now I have a snapped bolt in my head.

I ran the car for a few minutes and no leakage from the valve cover. But still that god damn bolt is stuck in there.

 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 01:51 PM
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Yikes, thread might had gunk in their and not clean. Try to tap it out and clean the threads? Can you reach it with a tap out?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 02:23 PM
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I’ve heard people say a left drill bit... Drill it out
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning
Yikes, thread might had gunk in their and not clean. Try to tap it out and clean the threads? Can you reach it with a tap out?
Im not even sure how to extract a broken bolt, I saw harbor freight sells a screw extractor/left hand bit set. I guess I would just drill into the bolt, but then what after making a hole? Thread another drill bit in and unscrew it?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 04:34 PM
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they say the bit will eventually bite and back the bolt out. I've not tried it.

YouTube is your friend here, brother. take your time. you will get it out
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 01:22 AM
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Which bolt???

Some of the valve cover bolts can be pushed through (strange design). Take a look and see if it is one that you can feel the bolt from below. If not, extractor or drill and tap is your next best bet.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 03:05 PM
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Upper right bolt

Originally Posted by aboveliquidice
Some of the valve cover bolts can be pushed through (strange design). Take a look and see if it is one that you can feel the bolt from below. If not, extractor or drill and tap is your next best bet.
Its the upper right bolt (next to the air intake), I took it to the shop today to see if they can get it out. It was definitely too deep in there for a tap, hopefully they’re able to get at it...
 
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Old Nov 11, 2020 | 03:15 AM
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not sure if this will help but i went thru this last year... busted exhaust manifold bolt on rear of block.

https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads...ifold.2507463/
 

Last edited by steve05ram360; Nov 11, 2020 at 05:43 AM.
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Old Nov 11, 2020 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by steve05ram360
not sure if this will help but i went thru this last year... busted exhaust manifold bolt on rear of block.

https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads...ifold.2507463/
Thanks for the help, my mechanic was able to get it out so all is good now. Also he pointed out that the oil pressure switch is leaking, so I think that's at least one culprit in the oil leakage.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2020 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by dayman
my mechanic was able to get it out so all is good now
Care to share how he got it out?
 
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Old Nov 12, 2020 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by RedSky455
Care to share how he got it out?
He didn't really say, but he had a Snap-on center punch tool in the engine bay so I assume he was able to tap it out somehow with that tool and back the bolt out.

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Cent...er-Punch/PPC4A
 
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Old Nov 12, 2020 | 09:43 AM
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A left hand drill will usually pull it out... assuming you can get a pilot hole drilled so it can bite on something. When I tried this my problem was the drill would loosen the chuck and the bit would become loose.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2020 | 10:51 AM
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there's a correct tool for every task


set includes strengthened bits to drill the pilot hole (a center punch helps start things)

and the tapered extractors are left twist with socket ends in case you needed extra UMPH to break it loose .....


Amazon $14
 
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