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NEXT MOD , electric WP... anyone who's done it chime in plz
Looking at my engine once I get it all running correctly, which I think I'm almost there I wanna then do an electric wp.
but I have a few questions.
I wanna use my stock sc still , is it ok to just remove the pto gears and can this be accomplished without taking apart the sc ? Or is it a simple job ?
Does anyone sell an adapter for the block? Or do I have to take that part off my sc and have a extension tube welded onto it so a hose can attach to it ?
since id be removing the stock wp couldnt i then mount the electric wp in that area, I have no problem finding the rite bend of hosing needed, I can just browse in the back of all our local parts stores as they all know me.
does the pump HAVE to run for awhile after turning off the car , I DONT want that and I don't feel it needed but correct me if I'm wrong and can just have it run with ignition on not engine on SO during races I coooooould cool it better possibly while parked.
what the pump you guys are using ? Whats the best one and whats the most cost efficient one ( I budget build )
I tried reading as many articles i could but they all are all over the place ..
I did it last winter. You will have to get an extension welded on the water pump flange. Check my thread out - the Indi Blue Original Owner thread. I think I put quite a bit of detail in there.
I did it last winter. You will have to get an extension welded on the water pump flange. Check my thread out - the Indi Blue Original Owner thread. I think I put quite a bit of detail in there.
Did mine in the spring. Check my build thread. I have a parts list, and breakdown of how to do it. It's basically a how to. If you have any issues give me a shout. If you really get in a pinch I can PM you my number
For mine, I got the Sprintex fittings, but it's not really that cheap of an option... but I'm also a bit lazy so!!! The water pump is the Davies Craig DC8005.
Sadly for me, I didn't get to drive the car for the full last month before storing it due to the mistery misfire being still present (pretty sure it's a burnt valve at this point). But for the 5-6 days after putting it all back together, the needle never moved past the middle. As for the wiring, I have a 12V distribution box in the car that's powered by the ignition via a relay. My boost gauge and wideband sensor are already on there, so I just used one of the free spot for the water pump.
For mine, I got the Sprintex fittings, but it's not really that cheap of an option... but I'm also a bit lazy so!!! The water pump is the Davies Craig DC8005.
Sadly for me, I didn't get to drive the car for the full last month before storing it due to the mistery misfire being still present (pretty sure it's a burnt valve at this point). But for the 5-6 days after putting it all back together, the needle never moved past the middle. As for the wiring, I have a 12V distribution box in the car that's powered by the ignition via a relay. My boost gauge and wideband sensor are already on there, so I just used one of the free spot for the water pump.
bummer I just FINALLY got my car running perfect after my head n cam..few kinks worked out n sensor needed replacing but OMG SHES A MONSTER NOW. My culprit was a knock sensor.
Sooooo, back onto this electric waterpump again now that my cars running perfect again.
so, where can I get an adapter that will fit into the block where the stock water pump does ??? I came across these things for carburetors and they look like they could be used to fit an adapter pipe in without welding ...
but do they sell the part im looking for or do I need to have one custom made to do my electric waterpump I wanna do
The plastic one is garbage. It's the one that came with sprintex which is also garbage. But man I just gotta say you sure know how to hook your car up.
AGAIN PLASTIC DAVIES GARBAGE METAL GOOD! If you want to do it right get the tvs900 setup and get the water pump for free.....or just get the setup that comes with the tvs900 if you're gonna cheap out lol. I am sure people will now come in and say why the plastic one is a good unit. But your call. Again way to hook up your ride!
Seriously though if you are serious and actually want to do it right have a pipe made for it. Shouldn't cost you more than a 100 bucks to have the pipe made.
Here is the manual for the tvs install. You can see the water pump setup here. You want to do that. Might be able to actually contact Harrop USA and get the pipe. You will NOT NOT NOT be able to get it from Douche bag at RMW so dont even waste time with that. But Harrop USA maybe.....Just tell them yours split a weld or something. Tell them you want the T pipe as well.
I did one on the ram... it did not last. Something like 14k miles is all I got out of it before the motor was trashed. There was another guy on there who did the davies pump... he pulled his as well iirc
Hey Akumazeto , couldn't I just unbolt that inlet for the water pump from the block to have a tube welded onto it ? There's an S at my local salvage yard so I could go snag that off of it.
They run at a constant speed - not engine-related speed. One of the big benefits with an EWP is that the near constant overheating experienced in a supercharged Mini when in stop-start traffic is done away with. Another benefit is not driving the water pump with engine power. Less drag on the engine=more power to the wheels. No idea how much, but mine felt peppier after the conversion.
I didn't use the plastic one - I went with the 8040 aluminum-body model. It's also a bit higher flow. Since installation, my radiator cooling fan hasn't needed to come on (that I could hear). A bigger coolant tank is definitely in my future - the larger pump creates a vortex in the overflow tank if the coolant level gets too low (below half). I think I will end up getting one of the rectangular aluminum coolant tanks.
Last edited by jcolletteiii; Dec 10, 2020 at 06:55 AM.
Hey Akumazeto , couldn't I just unbolt that inlet for the water pump from the block to have a tube welded onto it ? There's an S at my local salvage yard so I could go snag that off of it.
That's what I did. The welding job was kind of ugly, but it was pressure tested by the machinist who did it. I think my machinst charged me $20 bucks. I sourced the aluminum extension tube with the proper hose end and length. The aluminum alloys ended up being different and that was why the welding was tough going. I have details in my remod thread somewhere.
That's what I did. The welding job was kind of ugly, but it was pressure tested by the machinist who did it. I think my machinst charged me $20 bucks. I sourced the aluminum extension tube with the proper hose end and length. The aluminum alloys ended up being different and that was why the welding was tough going. I have details in my remod thread somewhere.
There was a controller offered from them as well. I control mine via link software. While I can surely always have it full blast and honestly I do it can have set points. I also have it running after the car is off for 120 seconds.
The controller is a throttle and controls the speed of the pump, or just an on-off timer? Mine is on the relay and runs for 2 minutes after power off as well.
The controller is a throttle and controls the speed of the pump, or just an on-off timer? Mine is on the relay and runs for 2 minutes after power off as well.
I like the idea of that though not 2min , I feel just 1min would be good for mine and its occasional street use.
looks like ille have to be heading back to my playground ( salvage yard ).. o well , I have fun even just walking and looking and the wrecked cars and stuff and accessing damage ect, lol I'm such a car nerd.
It's much simpler to wire the same as the Sprintex wiring instructions.
Simple relay, with power on from a specific pin in the ECU, W/P runs for an extra 5 min and shuts off when the ECU does.
No timer or controller needed.
Mine has run for many years like this.