My throwout bearing came apart and the clutch has been slipping anyway so I decided to try to it myself . I installed the Valeo clutch kit after watching mod mini's video numerous times as well as pelican parts write up . After installing the clutch ,new throwout bearing and flywheel it was time to put back the transmission and man has that been a PIA . After three days of struggling I was able today to feel it slip in and I loosely install 4 bolts . Everything appears to be good to go however its refusing to go the last 1/4 inch . I wiggled this thing up down side to side and it just wont go that last little bit . It feels and sounds like its hitting something but I checked carefully around the entire bell housing and nothings in the way . I tie wrapped the clutch arm back like pelican parts recommends so I know its not that the throw out bearings slipped forward .

A little advice ...if your over 65 and by yourself do not try to install a clutch . Pay a mechanic !!!

 

Sometimes they just don't want to line up. I've had that happen and I just have to walk away for awhile and come back and just wiggle it until it does. Once it's lined up it will slide all the way up to the block.

 

Thanks for the advice .So if I understand , your saying the splines arent aligned yet ? I thought it was already in since it slid in to within 1/4inch .... That would certainly explain it . I was worried Id have to pull it back out and start all over .

 

When you get the splines lined up it should slide all the way to the block not just a 1/4 inch short

 

Thank you Way . On wed. I'm going to get a friend wiggle it while I turn the flywheel from underneath

 

Did you use the friction disk centering tool? Did you note the markings on the friction disk regarding which side is the "gear box side?"

 

Yes ..centering thing came with the clutch kit and the side of the disc that bulges and says "gearbox side " is towards the trans

 

There is one thing I'm confused about . The pelican parts write up says to line up a mark on the flywheel with a mark on the crank shaft but mod mini says to rotate the flywheel until the bolt holes line up which is what I did . Hope that wasnt a mistake

 

So I spent 2 hours this morning trying to get the trans to slide in . The belts off so I would turn the crank a bit and wiggle the trans etc etc . No luck .
Im concerned bec when I take the weight off the trans and let it float so I can wiggle it the bottom of the transmission tilts all the way in flush but the upper section acts like its hitting something solid .I checked carefully and theres nothing outside of the trans thats blocking it . Im concerned that something shifted or ?? . I thought Id ask if this sounds normal or ,God help me, should I take the trans back out and see whats up. (took two days of struggle to get it this close )
I hate to admit that I may be getting too old for this **** ..Arghhh

 

In 17 years and 160K miles of R53 ownership I have done virtually everything by myself, but I'm drawing the line at a clutch change; going to my independent mechanic in a few weeks for that.

 

quick tip for you, trans not going in because is in an angle, go to hardware store get some 4inch long 12mm bolts to use that as a guide will made this job easy. get 1 for the bottom, 1 for the top and 1 back side at the starter. I have did many clutch job on Mini and it work great.

see pic this just for general idea.

 

Thank you Ill get some bolts today however I have a transmisson jack under it so what Ive been doing is lowering the jack and using a piece of wood to lift the rear between the jack and the rear of the trans so its straight and not at an angle and its refusing to go in .Im going to have to wait a few days bec Ive got bruising on my right arm and my right knee is swelling a bit . First time in my life Im feeling my age ..sucks

ordered a 9inch 12mm threaded rod from amazon . Ill cut it in half and use it with the other one I bought b4

 

My neighbor and I tried again to get it in and its refusing . Feels like its hitting something solid so tomorrow Im taking it back out to inspect everything . Im thinking maybe when I was trying to install it I may have somehow shifted the clutch disk too far out of alignment .We shall see

 

My first thought is that the throwout bearing is improperly seated in the fork. The throwout bearing tabs slide onto the fork and don't just sit on top. Sometimes during install it can slide out of the fork and sit on top of them. Is it the proper bearing for the kit?...some kits have different height bearings.That is the only thing that I can think of that would hold it up by 1/4". Try moving the clutch slave arm before you take it down...with 1/4" to go, it should have some play in it....probably at least 1/4".

When installing...don't bother turning the crank or flywheel. Best way to fully seat the input shaft is to 1--make sure the trans is in a gear (not neutral) 2--insert the D/S axle (or an inner axle stub if you have an old POS one that you can take apart) and turn the diff....this works much better than turning crank or flywheel...at least for me.

If you can get it to within 1/4", it's not likely the disc alignment...don't think the input shaft actually come in contact with the crank...there should be a gap.

BTW---check the fork for cracks or if it is bent!!

Hear you brother on the age thing..was installing my trans to the engine today..out of the car..and the F'bombs came out...these are a PITA.

 

Thanks for the help . I just checked the clutch arm and theres 1/4 in of play so that's good .The throw out bearing is the one that came in the Valeo kit and the old one was destroyed so I have no way to be 100 percent sure it's the right one . I was very careful to seat the bearing correctly and check the movement . I also tie wrapped the clutch rod back during install as per pelican parts suggestion . Im wondering if maybe I recieved a mislabeled kit . I installed a new clutch fork bec the old one looked bad due to the exploded throw out bearing.I'll pull it out tomorrow and double check everything.

 

Have you tried tightening the 2 bolts with guide pins...with a hand wrench to see if it will suck it in??

 

I was soooooo tempted but afraid I'd break or bend something . Almost seemed like the guide pins were what was blocking it though

 

You will be able to tell by feel if you are doing anything wrong...just don't crank on them...sometimes just a few gentle turns and the resistance will go away...if you have a stubby ratchet (4" handle) use that...hard to do any damage with that length of wrench.

 

I'll give it a try tomorrow morning . Thank you for your help

 

Good luck...mine is on...it's the one job that I dread when you put my race car back together...everything else is a piece of cake.

 

I changed the ball joint and LCA s , also gasket matched what I could , intake paths (polished insides)and the exhaust manifold as well . I changed all the seals and installed a screaming demon coil with brisket racing plugs . Already have a 15%pulley 2%ATA crank CAI and WMW exhaust . Cant wait to start driving it again. Stupid &$*#* clutch

 

When I did the clutch on my R50 the first time, I took me nearly 2 hours of fighting with the trans before I got it lined up properly and slid home. I quite literally quit for the night, went to bed and the next morning started on it again. Later when I swapped the 5 speed to a 6 speed, it literally took less than 5 minutes of trying before the transmission slid home. The guide bolts are a great idea that I employed as well. I did something slightly different in that I cut the hex head off the bolt and cut a notch in the top so that I can use a flat head screwdriver to back them out when done. I also screwed them in on the left and right side where the dowels are as the transmission holes on those locations are slightly larger and give more room to wiggle the transmission around. I would also advise against using the all thread for your guide bolts. The threads are going to make it more difficult to slide the transmission back and forth and will also grind away at the aluminum in the bolt holes as you do slide it back and forth.

With the clutch disc alignment tool, that is really only useful for holding the clutch plate in place while securing the pressure plate. Since the crank doesn't use a pilot bearing, there is no centering function that the tool is designed for. What I did (as well as many others) is to feel around the edge of the pressure plate to see if the clutch disc is flush with the edges. If the disc is flush with the edges on the 3 sections where you can get your fingers in there, then the disc is centered and you can torque down the bolts on the pressure plate.

 

Thanks for your help .I decided to let it be fir today . I'm too sore physically and mentally .

 

I was about to give up and pull the trans when I remembered a poem about not quiting because you never know how close you might be so I backed out the trans a bit took out the bolts and put on the threaded rods ,spun the flywheel a bit and 5 min later I'm dancing like I hit the lotto. Much gratitude to all who helped