Hello all,
My AC blower motor stopped a few weeks back on my 06 mini S with auto AC. I checked the power to the blower motor via volt meter and no volts coming out of the connector going to the ac blower motor. I took it into the local mini independent shop and said it was the blower motor and would be $2100. I know you have to remove the dash but that was high. Not convinced it was just the motor I hooked up 10 gauge wire with an inline 30 amp fuse directly to the motor from the battery and it worked but the fuse started to melt after 30 minutes of driving. The ohms seemed high on the ac fan at 1.6 so I bought a new oem motor but I was still not getting power to the motor with all fuses on the inside cabin being good. I then bought a used OEM Mini Cooper AC Blower Motor Resistor but still no power to the motor. What else could it be??? What are the symptoms of the auto ac controller going bad?

 

Try to replace K4 relay, located on fuse holder left side or left footwell.Hade same problem last year.

 

We tested the k4 relay and was bad but mine is built into the fuse box so I had to get a used fuse box. It's on the way so we will find out in a few days. Thanks for the help.

 

I don't have any relays in the left floor panel. I do have the 30amp fuse. It looks fine. I even changed it. I have a manual coupe. I think I will add 12V power directly to blower plug to see if it goes on.

 

Hi All,

First time poster. Just found the site and it looks like a good one. Hopefully someone can steer me in the right direction.

My daughter's 2006 R53 is having this exact problem. There is no airflow from the blower. During the summer this has been ok as she can go without A/C. It is now starting to be winter and we have already had 6" of snow. This problem is now moving into a safety hazard since she does not have defrost. I'm at wits end trying to find the solution. Any advise would be greatly appreciated for both me and the prior posters. Below is what I have done so far.

1. Volt meter shows no voltage at the blower motor pig tail.
2. I can jump power to the blower and it works.
3. I have installed a new final stage resistor to see if it was faulty and not passing voltage to the blower motor, but no luck. It does have full voltage.
4. All fuses including the high current fuses under the fuse box have been checked and verified good.
5. The relay in the engine bay fuse box has been tested and verified good.
6. IHKA control unit was replaced with a tester, but the problem was not fixed. It was an older model IHKA and mine is the redesign. Not known if the tester would work since it is a different model.
7. IHKA self diagnostic was run and shows an FF 09 fault (air distribution servo motor) or ADS for short.

I have literally tried everything I can think of so far. Just the last few days I have wondered if the ADS motor fault could be the cause. I was wondering if the the power for the blower has to first flow through the ADS. I have looked all over, but have yet to find anything to confirm this. I called our local Mini dealer to see if the could answer the question and they did not know either. The cost of the ADS motor is only $108 including tax and shipping, BUT they have to order it from Germany and it will take 4-6 to get here. They said it is not a common failure item that they have seen. Started to search for other solutions and aftermarket parts tonight instead.

My search came up with multiple hits for these forums. Others that had the FF 09 fault on the IHKA used a coat hanger as the solution to get heat to the floor. It worked for many people. The problem for me is that means their blower is working, mine is not. Does this mean if the ADS motor is replaced my blower still will not work?

I have also seen the suggestion to replace the K4 relay. In my Mini it is hard wired into the back of the fuse block and you would have to replace the entire fuse block. Not sure I want to do that just to see if that would work. How can I test it to know for sure? If the final stage resister is down stream from the K4 which I believe it is, I get 12 volts there so K4 must be good?

When I run the car on INPA it shows the following IHKA error: "Fan control voltage short circuit to ground fault currently present". This makes me wonder 2 things:

1. Is there a bad ground somewhere? On a ground point, or it could be within the IHKA unit.
2. Is the IHKA faulty after all?

As I type this I'm now thinking the most likely culprit is the IHKA unit. Since I'm not getting voltage to the blow, if the unit is shorting out, the circuit will not close allowing the voltage to reach the blower. The switch is open.

I'm really at a loss here and need to find a solution fast. The weather is already below freezing in the evenings. Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

I suck at electric issues but I can send you the wiring diagram if it helps?

I thought there were some with relays built in to the back of the fuse panel...

is it possible to test for volts at the blower?

 

I still haven't figured it out. If you do. Let us know. Thanks!

 

Anyone have an update on this? Been trying to find a thread that hasnt gone cold.

 

Hello i have the same issue no blower power and Fan control voltage short circuit to ground fault currently present any luck ?? thanks Doug

 

I tried replacing the the control panel and still no power going to blower motor. I will try pluging in a 30.00 blower motor from Autozone and see if it goes on. If not I can afford the 30.00 loss.

 

I tried replacing the the control panel and still no power going to blower motor. I put direct 12v to blower plug and Blower works.. I will try pluging in a 30.00 blower motor from Autozone and see if it goes on. If not I can afford the 30.00 loss.

 

check this thread out if found it very help full

1st Gen Mini heater blower fan diagnostics (2005+ with auto AC)

 

Our fuse box did not have the relay as pictured in the above diagram. It is incorporated in the the back of the fuse box and it is not replaceable. I dismantled the fuse box to try and solder in a new relay, but there is no chance. It is 2 layers and 100+ solder point to get them apart.

We replace the fuse box with one from a salvage yard and the a/c works again just like it should. As long as the one you purchased is "good" it will fix your issue as well.

 

If you jumped power to the blower and it worked, it can only be the fuse box, or the switch (IHKA) itself. If you bought the fuse box from a salvage yard, it may have been bad.

 

Here are some photo's of my fuse block. The connection point on the back that is horizontal (3rd down from the top, dead center) is the one for the blower. If you look close on the last picture you can see where the failure was. It's the black marks dead center of the block. From picture 3 however you can see there is just no chance of replacing the relay without a TON of work. Way cheaper to just buy another one. I got mine from a salvage yard for $40. It works fine now.

 

Thanks A TON! Im on my way not to a salvage yard. What do you thing would cause this to fail?

 

I have a similar problem, but I have a IHKR/IHKS (resistor/simple) aircon system.

1. Volt meter shows no voltage at the blower motor pig tail.
2. I can jump power to the blower and it works.
3. I can ground the relay trigger and the relay clicks and I get 12V at the blower switch

It seems that BC1 is not triggering the relay. Does anyone know when and how this trigger occurs.

Cheers,

Dave

 

hey Dave did you ever get any resolution to this? My hvac blower recently quit I’ve replaced it itself the hedgehog resistor and still nothing just checked for the signal from bc1 and nothing

 

Hi,
Sorry, no resolution.
I ended up hot-wiring the fan trigger at the fusebox. Only problem was that the fan kept running after the ign was turned off; so I ended up adding a relay.

 

dang, thanks for the reply…I have done a test I think was on another thread but it showed how to check to see if the bc1 was communicating with the fuse panel and there was no indication that the bcm was sending a signal. So I’ve considered two options, to 1 either deal with it considering it’s almost spring or 2 there is a website called ecu pro and you send your bcm in to get tested for faults and repaired so I may end up doing that idk. There is an upsetting lack of information on the internet regarding this issue

 

Hi,
Whilst investigating the issue I found that the two bottom connectors to the BCI had a bit of water damage. I was hoping that this was the cause of the heater fan issue, but despite cleaning the connectors as best I could, but issue remained. Maybe you could check your connectors, if you haven't already.