Does anyone have pictures of what they use to remove the oil filter cover with. I have a cut down 36 mm socket and a 1/2” breaker bar, but it is a pain in the butt. There has to be a better way.

 

This is the best way:

Many makers, but this is what it should look like!

 

On my '02 ' R53 a very fine-toothed ratchet or a slim air wrench helps.
There's no room to swing a big breaker bar.

 

I use basically this same thing with a 3/8" breaker bar, that is about standard ratchet length. The above looks like an impact socket, which is what I use. Mine came from working on a Volvo wheels hubgs and axles. Super happy to have a at least two uses for this socket. I would be concerned about how much of a pain it is to get that housing off. It hasn't been that hard for me and I am not using a real "breaker bar" again standard ratchet should work. I would also be concerned about the threads. Since it is aluminum you may have chewed up threads causing the issue.

 

This is the one I use:

 

I use the Schwaben one.

https://www.ecstuning.com/News/MINI_...006_2007_2008/

 

36mm socket with a short wobble extension works great.

 

I have the Schwaben shown in the ECS post. Works great with a Craftsman 3/8 drive ratchet. If you think that its a pain in the rear to get it off, wait till you try to put it back on with a new filter fitted. Sometimes I find it easy peasy, other times it is a right royal PITA. Be careful not cross thread the cap on the housing. I always use a small dentist-style mirror to check that it is going on evenly. Torque to 18 ft/lbs.


https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ilter-cap.html

 

pro-tip right there

 

I originally tried it with a 36mm and wobble extension, still was harder than it needed to be. I just ordered the specialty socket, easy peasy... .

 

At my first change interval I order the "First Oil Change Kit" from Way. Came with a similar socket as shown above... and +1 (or 2) on it being easier to remove than reinstall.

 

ah, the memories ..... bought my first S in 2002 and hence became one of the early birds to DIY oil changes and went thru the "what the heck will fit" dances

First bought a socket of the correct size and a new driver cuz the big socket only came in 1/2 drive ..... qickly learned loosing the cap enuf to do much, had the socket and wrench wedged against the firewall

So no problem ..... I cut down the socket .... still didn't work. Back then the word came out that the SEARS / Craftsman socket would work but I hadn't believed the brand would make a difference but broke down and bought one and it DID allow for the cap to get loose and still leave room to get the wrench and socket off.

Today's sockets like the Schw' pictured are better yet .....

Having been doing GEN1 oil changes since 2003 for myself and others I'll offer a couple of hints / lessons learned

when removing the cap .... first, pack the area around the cap with rags or paper towels to catch any potential spills. It is nice to keep spills away from the control arm bushings especially if you still have rubber. Long term exposure of rubber to oil & heat is not a great thing .... then get the cap loose enuf to break the o-ring seal but let it sit for a minute before you actually remove the cap ... this allows oil caught in the filter to drain down - there is usually a vacuum lock holding oil in the filter can (if you don't do this you can get a mess spilled out of the cap hence the rag pack)

when putting things back together I find a firm grip helps and that cap is smooth ... wearing a disposable rubber glove gives me a much better grip. Then when you get the cap (and filter) situated and begin to screw it on PRESS DOWN FIRMLY. The assembly fits tight and resists going together but I've found that firm down pressure while turning the cap gets it seated easy and then I can feel when the rubber o-ring begins to engage ..... and then I can never seem to get the cap fully seated without applying a wrench (contrary to the usual rule of thumb for an oil filter being just hand tight)

IME more torque then the recommended # is usually required just to get the cap flush to the housing so I'd be cautious about pulling that out too soon in the process.

Even tho I don't own a GEN1 anymore I have friends that do and have opened my garage and tools to folks not so fortunate (apartment dwellers mostly) so I still play with a few . .

 

My last oil change (only my second on the R53), I struggled getting the housing to go down far enough to engage the threads at all. What helped is taking the filter element and pushing *cough*forcing*cough* it down on to the feed tube on the engine first, then pulling it if and inserting it into the housing as usual. It stretched the fabric of the filter’s hole enough to allow it to go on a little easier. I was surprised that the hole was so small, and posted a question about whether I’d gotten the right filter. It was really hard to put into the engine, and into the housing. Doing a little “pre-stretching” helped.

As for removing it, I’ve done it was both the shallow sockets shown above, and using a pliers-type oil filter tool (my preferred wrench after many years of using others) and the socket was by far the easiest.