Factory is a clutch type and a huge advantage in autocross I run one without and one with the amount of wheelspin difference is huge it is at least a second off a lap

 

mine behaves identical with stock jcw spring/inserts and with jcw springs & FSD, both will snap oversteer, one wheel lifts, something that was bound up will will shift and poof traction lost and snap oversteer. I take that bar off for trackdays and it fixes it. It might be the bushings in front of the arms, or the swaybar itself but mine is greased and moves freely when unbolted.

I run at least 2.5 in rear I need a better gauge and probably 3 in the front as much as I could get, it's a wonderful feeling when you start to turn in and you can feel the car shift and the tires go nice and horizontal on the road and grip

 

Just some info.

I had thought they ran a Torsen (gear) type LSD, same as the Ford ST (same tranny) or the Quaife but your comment got me to do some digging and I found this:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...s-w-lsd-2.html

This is probably the best post I found on the subject and I thought I would share. It describes the factory LSD as being a cone friction type, which is different from a clutch type (eg: OS Giken), but similar. That is a new one on me.

Maybe Tank will tear down that tranny he has and let us know for sure.

I also found a number of post about the percentages that the various LSDs have and generally the stock was was thought to be around 30%, the Quaife was anywhere from 40 to 75%. Not sure if anyone knows for sure.

 

Sounds like you are way ahead of me here.

It also almost sounds like one of the sway bar arms is hanging up on something but, obviously this is just a wild a** guess. Hope you get it figured out; let use know if you do.

My issues were not that pronounced. Mostly the car felt "soft" in transitions with the FSDs. I also didn't have enough rear camber and may have been rolling over onto the tire sidewalls. I would not say that it would snap, but the tail would want to come around when that inside wheel would lift. This was most pronounced in esse turns where there is a lot of dynamics going on.

That said, on the street I found the FSDs to be really nice.

 

I've only heard 30 % for factory, and yes cone type I thought that was the same as clutch, but I believe both are friction based instead of gear based

we can use the same diffs as the focus use, so you can get an mfactory helical too, another cheaper option

 

So today i started to take off everything to pull engine. Everything is disconnected and









READY FOR PULL.

Eddie if i remember when we were talking you mentions that the JCW rotors are not 12" but it actually bigger it a 12.44" (316mm) for the R56 Brembos.

 

So engine is out. Need to separate the trans from engine. Guess ill start by cleaning it. it pretty dirty LOL. Got some help from a friend.







Strapped to a Dolly

 

Those JCW rotors are a pretty decent size.

And you work crazy fast!

Any ideas of what you are aiming to do with it?

 

I kind of quoted the following
Rods
Pistons
Bearings
studs (Head/Rods)

Open to suggestions at this moment. My plans is build it and make real bulletproof engine. I'm going to clean the outside of the engine and separate the transmission and engine and clean everything. I don't expect to have any surprises since the engine was running and running strong Unlike my last engine which had to get it bore bigger, due to a broken ring land. I went from 86mm to 86.5mm. I really don't want to do to much machine work. so that would save m $600.00.

 

With about 300 whp?
Just kidding,

I saw a JCW this weekend that was dyno'ed at about 250 hp. Sounded stock...go figure.

I think I posted some links for you of some other engine builds on gen I engines. Hopefully they gave you some ideas.

Any thoughts on clutches and flywheels?

 

I mean from what i head the only thin the JCW head has is ported Exhaust ports someone can correct me if I'm wrong. I was readying asn the S comes wtih Forged Pistons and rods already. If this is the case don't really see what other brand forged pistons and rods will do that the stock can't do lol.

is that a R56 JCW?

 

Not sure about the head but I think you are right about the rods and crank.

That was a 2006, Gen I JCW. Very sharp. I was told it had a tune, modified head, headers, and pullies.

 

exhaust ports opened up & pocket porting. They did a little work on the intake & exhaust throats under the valves too. The head bench flows 11 % better The pulley is 11.4? % smaller to match.

 

Swapped the tires and wheels. Going to the track this weekend. Also a little bit of mods. Made myself a Glove box, since i don't have one anymore and mounted a power bank to the bars to keep the cameras charged.






Glove box


No more door panels. had to secure the lock rod.


Wheels from the JCW. I took my RS3 and put them on the BBS wheels and the Conti DSW on the Sparco wheels i had

 

Got to love zip ties.

Have fun on the track.

 

Best ways to make a mount. I put some double sided tape and zip. No way that is going anywhere even if the worst happens.

 

Take a guess what failed at the track today LOL?

 

Oh, no, not the zip ties!

Track today? I thought it was Sunday?

Any rate how'd it go?

 

Did two days Sunday and Monday.

The flex pipe again LOL. seems like this affordable headers cheap out on the flex pipe and they cant take a heat. I didn't want to repeat of what happen at WGI so i called it a day with two session left. I'm going to Palmer this weekend coming up again for a double header. So I'm just going to throw the Stock headers back in and go with that. I figure it will quite the car and well. I think I will leave them on there for ever lol. let just hope that doesn't fail too.

 

Damn if those eBay headers failed again then yeah stock or super high-end is the only way to go. Keeping the car budgeted is wise so great choice with the stock headers .

Is it possible for you to just cut out the old flex and weld in a higher quality one?

 

I was thinking of doing welding on a better Flex, but cant seem to find anything that i think will hold up. I have seen JDM cars use some kind of flange with a spring on both sides of the Flange. I maybe that will work since it will allow it to flex. The only draw back from that is that does this you normally have to Cut them off after they rust up.

The Stock on i have I'm not sure, but it seems to have a a little black on one spot about 3mm diameter. So Starting to think this is a leak it has or had. At this moment i have no choice and will be taking my chances. Going later to get a bung put in and need to cover a hole it has by the flange that i put there when trying to take it off. since the fire didn't work when i was removing it from the other car. Will see if i can come up with some kind of shield just in case. I'm looking forward to the exhaust getting quiet as well and being able to hear the Supercharger noise.

If you can point me in the direction of a good Flex pipe I'm willing to give that other shot. I wont be doing much in the winter to this car. Just preparing for next season. I guess i will have to pony up for the Super expensive once and for the price does better not fail.

 

Vibrant Seems to make one that looks like what the stock uses. I cant seem to find a picture of what the insides looks like, but they describe it as a bellows type.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...GG18QXPYPJZ1GT

Also found this and it seems to be the only picture which shows the inside, but this looks like the hose you get at the auto part store to patch it and i think is really thin.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-25-ID-x-4-...1X-dN9&vxp=mtr

This Mesh looking flex will not work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Flex...dWq9me&vxp=mtr

 

What motor and trans mounts are you running now? Excessive movement from the engine rocking back and forth can cause the flex pipes to break. The extreme acceleration and braking at the track might be too much for your current mounts.

 

Tank - It may not exactly be the flex pipe that is the problem

I may be going off the deep end here. You say that you think that they can't stand the heat, which may be true. But you may be heating them more than a stock engine would because of the camshafts you have. If I remember right, your engine has aftermarket performance cams in it. These usually have more overlap between the intake and exhaust lobes to ensure all of the exhaust gasses get out and fuel/air gets in. This can cause excess fuel/air to exit through the exhaust. This burns in the exhaust manifold, making it hotter than it would normally be.

Think the flames that top fuel drag car send out but a little less extreme:

Mazda rotor engines have header problems because of this.

You may need to be extra picky to solve this problem. Maybe need to think of 2 flex connectors to keep the bending down.

 

I think this is what is happening. I Swapped out the Header for the stock that came with the JCW. so if this fails (the cat or flex). I would be convince.

I would more then likely make it solid and put a flex in the Catback part.

Love the sound it make and it quiet. I can actually hear the Supercharger now.