Yah the plate can be replaced. it cost $100. The last owner use to engine brake. So i think it came from that

I didn't see guide tube when i separated the two. Also the release bearing was broken.

 

Who messed up the forums

 

Hmmmm?



Not sure what you mean...

 

Someone got move happy. Moving threads around.

 

Took most of the engine apart. Two things holding me up. I can't find my Pulley puller guess ill have to go get one. 2 valve cover bolts look good, but the 8mm won't work on it. The short one is easy, the long one which requires and deep socket is the one i need some ideas.

Suggestions anyone. I have something i will try, but don't want to give my opinion to get fresh perspective. I don't care about the bolts. Will be either using once from my other engine or getting new once. So if your idea requires destroying the bolt and nothing else and not stripping the bolt whole, I'm all for it.

NOTE:
If i say rust in the following paragraph I mean surface rust.

The engine is really caked up with Oil/rust from your usual oil leak spots in this motor, which appear they neglected them. Since i never worked with an iron block before, I would like an idea on how to remove the oil/rust. I have used vinegar before on bolts and it worked with no problem, So i was thinking of getting a bin and about 10 gallons of vinegar and just throwing the block in there and any other rusted parts i had. Will this work?

I'm want to strip all the rust and then paint it or get it painted still haven't made up my mind. I guess it depends on how much it cost.

Any other suggestion, I would be more then happy to hear it. I'm going to work on the bottom end first, then focus my attention to the head.

Bottom End plan is the following
Re-use The Pistons/rods/crank. Will be replacing the Rings/bearing/Rod bolts, Clean polish anything that needs to be polish. Check the crank for balance and if it needs, balance it. If anyone has any other suggestions please I'm open just please give me a reason. (example: the stock pistons are known to break even if they are Forged pistons or cant handle X amount of power or the track use I want to put on it ect.)

What should the stock bearings size be, so i can measure the once that come out of this motor and see if i would require bigger once.




Here is pictures of the rollers on the SC






Here is what it looks like now

 

what's the problem you're having with the 8mm bolt? the socket is slipping off? I'm a little rusty on exactly how those are put together, but I think you can clamp some vice grips on the stud and crank them out that way. Of course with a generous soaking of penetrating oil. You could also try and hit the head with some heat to help loosen things up, but just keep it away from the stupid plastic valve cover.

 

ourch what did that SC eat?!?

did your stock header hold up? I was waiting to see what happened before I bought an ebay header, they have a couple designs now, and the obx 4/2/1 design

 

I dont think it ate nothing. It Seems to be the normal wear it gets.

As far as i can tell it did. Havent even looked at the car after it was dropped off. Focusing on building this engine. got the cover off waiting on the pulley tool to get the pulley out then going to clean it and take it to the machine shop do they deck the head and short block. Pistons look really dirty so guess i will need multiply Brass wheels to clean it good.



Try this but it didnt work so Option 2

 

None of my superchargers have the coating scratched off

 

Don't know. I will be looking at my other mini and see how it looks. Then making a decision which one i will be using.

I took off the pistons. The crank is looking very good so far so a Polish it all it needs. Going to clean the other parts while i wait for the Pulley puller.

Question why does the Crank have a gear wheel? I never seen that before lol.

 

I tried something i saw on YouTube and OMG it really works. Mineral Spirits really get oil off things. So guess more work for me tomorrow. Tested on the oil pan and it came out really nice.

















Some goodies came in Top and Bottom Gasket kit.

 

I may have missed it, but how many miles on this engine? The crank show more wear than mine did at 365,000 miles.

The gear on the crank is for the crank position sensor.

It was a fun project, but I don't miss it, not envious

Nik

 

That "gear" may be part of the crank sensor, kind-of like the "gear" that the ABS sensor uses on the wheel. Just guessing, though.

 

Hey, I guessed it...

 

 

That make sense now. The sensor sits right in that spot.

Your picture is showing the main journals. I was showing the rod journals, But the rod journals look good on my crank that will polish right off. Pulley puller will be here Friday/Saturday crossing my fingers that my Main journals look like yours or at least the Rod journals.

Car had 156k miles on it. If i remember correctly your are the sole owner of the car, so I'm sure you took good care of it the mileage you had on that baby is crazy but hey it worked.

I'm the 4th owner of that JCW based on Car Fax and the guys was using regular motor oil for the tranny fluid, just like the previous owner of The Racing Turtle. They used the green coolant which we all know it a no no for this cars (don't know if this was a desperate attempt to cure the overheating he was having, which turned out to be the fan not working). The normal oil leak areas on this engine are caked up, so it appears they never paid any attention or try to fix the problem. What he did do before selling it was replace the axles/rotor/pad/inner and outer tie rods and I'm going to assume after spending all that money he just didn't want to deal with the with other problem and only god knows what they quoted him to replace the fan.

 

Just saw this on your sig how has this helped you and does it come with instructions

Thumper AdjustED Cam Gear

I'm was going to take the Cams off my other car but I think ill just get new onces. Still looking. Focusing on the lower part of the engine for now.

 

Whoops, my bad. Here are my rod journals. Yeah, looks like yours was beat on a bit. I'm always curious to see how the wear is with regards to (1) type of oil, and (2) oil change frequency. I'm running RP with 22,000 between changes, couldn't be happier.

Have fun w/ the project!

Nik

 

Tank - reading back through the thread - Do you think, while it is all apart, that you should also check the weight of the rods and piston and make sure they are all the same (balanced?)?

And, I know it is just money, but why not replace the pistons? Those have 100k+ miles on them and changing them now seems to be an easy choice. And it seems that seating new rings on new piston should be better. Yes? No? I don't know; just asking.

 

Already ahead of you. Cleaning them today just to make sure the junk it had build up wouldn't throw the reading off. I ordered some books to see if they have specs for everything in the motor. It seems like no one blueprints the engine and just throws it back together. I will be checking the crank for roundness and i guess measure the bearings thickness. The info will be useless unless i can find what the tolerance are for this motor, which I'm hoping the books have or if anyone can point me to a factory service manual which is what i used last engine build.

Regarding the Piston you would normally change piston to forge pistons if the engine came with cast pistons or the piston got destroy or you need to oversize the bore. I think i will need to oversize the bore on the broken motor since i think C4 is gone. Wont know until i crack that engine open. R53 bottom even is all forged piston/rods/crank. If i was building a R50 then i would get piston and rods and maybe even a crank since everything is cast on that motor. Technically you can keep on using this pistons and rods forever as far as i know.

Cleaned Pistons Took about 2hr. This Mineral Spirits is the best thing ever for oil.

Before






After






Cleaned the Ringlands a little more




Here are the markings on the pistons

I will assume it indicating this is the 77mm piston


This I have no clue but maybe the weight


Have no clue about the numbers but the arrow is indicating front of engine there is also an f on the piston skirt.


The pulley puller showed up today. So i took it all apart now.









Main bearings look like they are in good shape




and the Head bolts showed up today

 

By any chance does anyone have access to this site.

https://www.minitechinfo.com/

I use to have access to the Hyundai tech site and that where i got all my detail on the engine build. Or does anyone know where i can get the PDF if someone already thought of that.

 

Nice job on everything. I've been running the same rotors as you have for about 5K miles and their performance on my JCW has been excellent.

ISAMIN

 

Yah the brakes are really good they eat pads like crazy lol.

Engine update. took the engine to machine shop Yesterday. He measured my pistons and weight them. So guess my budget caliper is not bad at all and my budget scale also gets a pass. Forgot the crank so took it in today. He said everything look excellent and he couldn't believe that crank was forged. Everything should be all done by Wednesday.

Going to place my order for the bearings and rings and then after that would be cleaning the Valve and replacing the seals.

Since today was so nice, I took it to remove anything and label and disconnect as much as i can before i go to swap out the engine. Didn't drain anything will do that when i swap.

Took out the injector and the injector in C4 had some shavings. So Guess something is no bueno there lol.

 

So I was thinking of reusing the Flywheel that came with the motor but after doing some search it turns out it going to cost more then a whole Valeo Kit. A new clutch, throughout bearing, and Flywheel Friction disc cost about $700 Vs a Valeo Complete kit, which cost around $380. So giving what this car is used for, does the Valeo kit work out or should i be looking else where, If it last 2 years track years i would be fine. I Don't drag race the car or launch it. As a matter of fact i never hard launched either of my minis. Just want some feed back on the Valeo.


Hopefully the machine shop is really done today (i wouldn't hold my breath they are always late) and i will try to get as much done as possible. I plan on using the same main bearings and just need to order the rod bearing and pistons. Cleaned mostly everything. Only things left is to clean the bolt and the thread and rust if any and i may clean the Intake manifold. Don't see too much oil on it. OO i forgot need to clean the transmission as well.

So i made up my mind. I will use this motor until it dies or until i finish building the other one.

Before and after

 

I had about 40k on my stock clutch before I replaced it and it looked fine. Lots of track days on it plus daily driving. I only replaced it because that is when I put in the Quaife so I figured why not. If you don't slip it much, it should last a long time.

Are there different options for the Valeo clutch, like a plus 1, etc?
Or how about:
https://www.waymotorworks.com/os-giken-clutch-kit.html
What the Hey, it's only money...