Alright guys, I hate asking these noob questions, ESPECIALLY since its something as simple as an oil change. I followed the direction from Pelican, but what I'm confused about is the small copper ring that comes in the oil filter element. What is that used for/where does it go? I absolutely HATE asking this, but I gotta know since I'm still in the midst of doing the change. My Fumoto valve ended up being defective so I'm awaiting that exchange to finish it off.

Good think I have my Fiesta ST to hold me off/drive until the Mini change gets done and going for the Spring/Summer again.

Thanks in advance guys, and I am so so SORRY for asking such a noob question. Just didn't see it mentioned in the write up for the oil change. Unless I'm blind and missed it/read too fast.

 

Are you sure you have the proper filter? R53 filters only comes with the filter and the cartridge o-ring. The newer MINIs does have that copper gasket. Had a mix-up once and got the R56 filters, so that's why I know.

 

It fit everything just fine, and the filter housing went on fine/o-ring fit perfect. Think maybe they just package them all together now to avoid confusion? I'm a bit less worried now knowing that.

 

I just did my first ion my R52 and It was just the filter and ORing.

 

GEN1 filter left ... GEN2 right

as mentioned GEN2 comes with a copper crush seal


GEN1 does not as the plastic seal is built into the bung and the bung should be new each time . . .

note - these are both OE filters

 

Perfect. That was my filter that I got. I knew I wasn't that dumb lol.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help/confirmation.

 

I was changing mine out the minute you posted that question, actually. Had a small panic attack when I saw the copper washer as well.

 

Are you sure it isn't just a new gasket for the oil drain plug??

 

Yeah, the oil drain plug is thicker and not made of metal. I also asked around if these needed to be replaced. General consensus was "no."

 

The Gen 1 OEM MINI drain plug has a rubber gasket integrated into the head.

 

+1 its in the screw , i replace Mine every time as the rubber tends to get smooched a bit on the flange side. Just watch not to damage it and use 1/2" size box end wrench.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lug-tight.html

 

So.... I finally got my replacement Fumoto valve. Had the filter element and casing already back on the car. Put the drain in, oil up the car, and turn it on! I back the car off the ramp only to notice a ridiculous amount of oil spilling out of my car at an alarming rate!! I am guessing it came from the filter side of things, but feeling around the casing I noticed nothing. It sat for a couple days until my pops and I could investigate, but again I still didn't see/feel any excess oil around the filter casing. Need some help here guys as I have NO clue what happened. Oil dipstick shows that the car lost all the oil, and there is no CEL for anything.

 

Either the oil filter o-ring broke on install or the Fumoto valve is open.

You need to excessively lube the o-ring prior to install otherwise it breaks.

 

The oil filter housing is kind of notorious for cross threading. I'd pull it off and check the threads, if they're ok, I'd try it again. Sometimes the housing cracks where it it mates up with the engine and has to be replaced. Though I would think if that's the case you would see/feel oil around the filter.

 

Bet the o-ring on the filter cap split....
Buy a new filter....to get a new o-ring...remove and replace...lube and reinstall...
I have a spare filter cause if this...and no o-ring leftover from when it happened to me ..
I bought by oil filters in a 6 pack to save $$.

And one tip...
Start the car on the ramps next time to do your leak check!!

 

Funny thing is I did start it on the ramps lol. I was thinking about it when I posted this but forgot to mention, would over tightening cause the O ring to fail? I feel like I may have done so. I'll get it pulled off to make sure it didn't crack the housing and go from there. Thanks for the quick responses everyone.

 

Overtightening WILL cause the cap to crack....or get stuck. Should be Firm....but not crazy tight...
If it is spit, you need to find a used one, or but an entire new housing.

 

We have used caps if need be, give us a call if you end up needing one.

586-792-6464

 

dealer can sell you just the o-ring .... to even up the odd number of filters .... been there

VERY EASY to pinch the ring and/or not get the cap on right. Best I can offer is the more you do it the easier it becomes . . .

if the Fumoto was open everything just runs out ... the valve is on the bottom of the pan ... if the leak didn't happen until you ran things it is the cap ... cap itself or the o-ring.

Been there and done this ..... when I broke an o-ring I did a run check and everything looked good ... so I drove around the block and when I got back to my driveway I noticed that a steady oil run had marked my around the block drive starting about 1/2 way across my lot ... and continued all the way back into my drive. By the time I shut things off I had a big mess on the garage floor. I lost about 2 quarts . . .

I guess it takes longer to fill the filter up than I'd realized . . .

 

Good news! Looks just a busted ring. I'll have to give the dealer in Omaha a call and see if I can get some spares. With lost oil, and possibly a new filter, it was only a slightly expensive mistake to learn lol.

 

Thanks for the update. So the main o-ring going sliced o the filter install ?

Part number for the O ring itself. 11427562249

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11427562249/


Filter kit w/ o ring : 11427512446

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11427512446/

 

yup! must have just tightened it too much and split the ring. noticed it as soon as i pulled the housing off and the o ring fell into two different pieces.

 

Most of us have done it...lol...good you caught it fast!!
Fastest fix is buy a filter locally....and order an o-ring to put iwith the filter next time ....
I have found some brands of filters have o-rings that are a bit different...
I always used MANN (one of the OEM makers) filters....but know my mechanic thought their o-rings were thicker and more likly to tear so he would use his house brand or OEM .

 

my 2 cents

when putting the can back on ... press down firmly ... you are fighting a spring and usually a filter element that fits tight on its own ... I press down firmly while turning and can feel when the o-ring begins to engage .... I can feel the smooth metal on metal change to a little "bounce" as the rubber slips ... I continue to press and turn until I can't turn by hand anymore (wearing a rubber glove helps the grip)

now I feel around the cap ... if it is flush to the mount you'd want to torque it .. but IME it never is flush and I need to wrench it a bit to close the gap ... this usually requires sufficient force that I don't sweat the torq' ... it AIN'T coming off. (I always need a wrench to get it off ...)

For me, the firm press is the key .... this seems to cut down cross threading and I've never pinched the o-ring with this method .... my 'experience' with a leak was my second DIY change on my 02, WAY back ... I still work on 'em for folks in the area . . .

 

Capt bj gives good advice. I "pre-condition" my filter by pushing a socket just a little larger in diameter than the filter opening into the opening to enlarge it, thus making it a little easier to install. Don't forget to always coat the o-ring with oil before installing. After engaging the threads, I use an inspection mirror to check the can and o-ring interface with the housing.