R50/53 P1688 snapped serpentine belt
#1
P1688 snapped serpentine belt
2006 R53 with 70k miles went into limp mode on the freeway. Checked the codes and it threw a P1688 and upon looking underneath the engine it was clear the belt snapped.
I have a tensioner tool on the way so that I can get the belt off and check to see if anything else was damaged.
If the crank pulley has gone bad, will it be pretty obvious?
I'm not used to belts just letting go, so wondering what else I need to check once I get in there. Best case just put a new belt on, worst case...?
I have a tensioner tool on the way so that I can get the belt off and check to see if anything else was damaged.
If the crank pulley has gone bad, will it be pretty obvious?
I'm not used to belts just letting go, so wondering what else I need to check once I get in there. Best case just put a new belt on, worst case...?
#2
If the crank pulley is the culprit, it probably would've separated, as the hard rubber portion can detach from the metal, rendering the pulley useless. Also on a failed pulley, the inner portion can make contact with the timing cover, gouging it..
In addition to a failed crank pulley, it could also be a failed belt tensioner. As to which is "worse case," neither is too big a job, with both equally laborious. If it were my car and either the pulley or tensioner had failed, I'd replace both, since removing the tensioner will be much easier (out the bottom) with the crank pulley removed.
In addition to a failed crank pulley, it could also be a failed belt tensioner. As to which is "worse case," neither is too big a job, with both equally laborious. If it were my car and either the pulley or tensioner had failed, I'd replace both, since removing the tensioner will be much easier (out the bottom) with the crank pulley removed.
Last edited by AoxoMoxoA; 04-18-2016 at 03:37 PM.
#3
Have you ever replaced the belt before? Definitely inspect the harmonic balancer and the belt tensioner. Inspect them closely and anything else in the area for damage. Also, make sure to get the correct replacement belt for your MINI. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item3
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#4
Have you ever replaced the belt before? Definitely inspect the harmonic balancer and the belt tensioner. Inspect them closely and anything else in the area for damage. Also, make sure to get the correct replacement belt for your MINI. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item3
#5
If the crank pulley is the culprit, it probably would've separated, as the hard rubber portion can detach from the metal, rendering the pulley useless. Also on a failed pulley, the inner portion can make contact with the timing cover, gouging it..
In addition to a failed crank pulley, it could also be a failed belt tensioner. As to which is "worse case," neither is too big a job, with both equally laborious. If it were my car and either the pulley or tensioner had failed, I'd replace both, since removing the tensioner will be much easier (out the bottom) with the crank pulley removed.
In addition to a failed crank pulley, it could also be a failed belt tensioner. As to which is "worse case," neither is too big a job, with both equally laborious. If it were my car and either the pulley or tensioner had failed, I'd replace both, since removing the tensioner will be much easier (out the bottom) with the crank pulley removed.
#6
I'd inspect the belt more regularly once you get everything fixed up. I typically inspect it every time I change my oil and try to replace it before signs of wear as preventative measures. Always inspect it closely as cracks will usually occur on the inside of the belt. Let us know what you find and if you need anything just let me know.
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#7
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#9
#10
Lots more need to be done to a mini or most modern cars beyond changing the oil to keep them reliable.
#11
There are several replacement pulleys that are better AND cheaper than OEM...
PRW branded is cheapest, and is fine, the ATI is bit nicer, but functionally similar, but more $$....then the OEM...
I would suggest you steer clear of the solid "lightweight" units....not a good plan IMO. Can cause some longerterm issues.
PRW branded is cheapest, and is fine, the ATI is bit nicer, but functionally similar, but more $$....then the OEM...
I would suggest you steer clear of the solid "lightweight" units....not a good plan IMO. Can cause some longerterm issues.
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