R50/53 DSC Light and CE Light on P0340 Code HELP
#1
DSC Light and CE Light on P0340 Code HELP
I have done a ton of research on this forum and others and it seems people have had similar issues with there r53s but no one seems to actually share how it was fixed.
I have been complaining about the cold start problem recently and some people said its this and that blah blah blah but nothing. Recently I had the same issue and it set off the DSC and Check engine light at the same time. After starting and restarting a few times the code goes away but I had it checked today at autozone and they said it was the P0340 code for camshaft sensor. Could this be causing the issue? OR are they unrelated. Also how much will this cost me to fix, where do I start. Please help!! Thanks!
I have been complaining about the cold start problem recently and some people said its this and that blah blah blah but nothing. Recently I had the same issue and it set off the DSC and Check engine light at the same time. After starting and restarting a few times the code goes away but I had it checked today at autozone and they said it was the P0340 code for camshaft sensor. Could this be causing the issue? OR are they unrelated. Also how much will this cost me to fix, where do I start. Please help!! Thanks!
#3
With the P0340 code, symptoms can include:
Hard starting or no start
Rough running / misfiring
Loss of engine power
This with more information and possible solutions can be found here. After this, if you believe the camshaft sensor is the culprit, part here. There is also some good info in this thread here on NAM, which includes some instructions on the replacement.
Hard starting or no start
Rough running / misfiring
Loss of engine power
This with more information and possible solutions can be found here. After this, if you believe the camshaft sensor is the culprit, part here. There is also some good info in this thread here on NAM, which includes some instructions on the replacement.
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
The following users liked this post:
BernieCoop (10-03-2019)
#4
With the P0340 code, symptoms can include:
Hard starting or no start
Rough running / misfiring
Loss of engine power
This with more information and possible solutions can be found here. After this, if you believe the camshaft sensor is the culprit, part here. There is also some good info in this thread here on NAM, which includes some instructions on the replacement.
Hard starting or no start
Rough running / misfiring
Loss of engine power
This with more information and possible solutions can be found here. After this, if you believe the camshaft sensor is the culprit, part here. There is also some good info in this thread here on NAM, which includes some instructions on the replacement.
How would i even get in there to check the connections and plugs? Sucks now that I moved from a house to a apartment but ill have to make due.
#5
Super easy to get at the Crank sensor, #8 in this picture. It's directly below the fuel lines on the front of the engine side, between the engine mount and head. You would only need a 10m wrench to change it out.
Sorry after looking at it would be much easier and quicker to remove the mount first, so 16mm, 18mm and a 10mm. You would also need a jack for under the motor, so a few tools but not many.
Sorry after looking at it would be much easier and quicker to remove the mount first, so 16mm, 18mm and a 10mm. You would also need a jack for under the motor, so a few tools but not many.
Last edited by Finhead; 09-10-2015 at 02:56 PM.
#6
You're very welcome. Not having a garage and tools does kind of make things a bit more difficult, but hopefully they don't quote too much. It is, however, fairly easy to access, but you do need to support the the engine. Otherwise, you might be able to look around the area and visually inspect things. (I hit the camshaft sensor electrical harness connector in the photo for you to see).
Here is the part if needed: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg2.htm#item9
Here is the part if needed: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg2.htm#item9
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
Last edited by PelicanParts.com; 10-17-2016 at 08:36 AM.
#7
Super easy to get at the Crank sensor, #8 in this picture. It's directly below the fuel lines on the front of the engine side, between the engine mount and head. You would only need a 10m wrench to change it out.
Sorry after looking at it would be much easier and quicker to remove the mount first, so 16mm, 18mm and a 10mm. You would also need a jack for under the motor, so a few tools but not many.
Sorry after looking at it would be much easier and quicker to remove the mount first, so 16mm, 18mm and a 10mm. You would also need a jack for under the motor, so a few tools but not many.
You're very welcome. Not having a garage and tools does kind of make things a bit more difficult, but hopefully they don't quote too much. It is, however, fairly easy to access, but you do need to support the the engine. Otherwise, you might be able to look around the area and visually inspect things. (I hit the camshaft sensor electrical harness connector in the photo for you to see).
Trending Topics
#9
Sounds like from the link Pelican provided it cold be either or maybe both. It lists as both could be at falt.
The Crank shouldn't be that much harder if you have a jack/stands you could get away with just moving the rad forward rather than draining and taking it out. Would require a philips screw driver and one torx screw driver a 8mm and 14mm and 16mm (I think for the bumpercarrier) socket/ratchet extentions. Bumper and bumper brace can come off in 20min easy. Then just edge the rad forward and you can get the crank sensor with a 10mm.
Up to about 5min in this video is where you would have to be. Little more work than a mount but not a crazy amount, and fairly basic really.
The Crank shouldn't be that much harder if you have a jack/stands you could get away with just moving the rad forward rather than draining and taking it out. Would require a philips screw driver and one torx screw driver a 8mm and 14mm and 16mm (I think for the bumpercarrier) socket/ratchet extentions. Bumper and bumper brace can come off in 20min easy. Then just edge the rad forward and you can get the crank sensor with a 10mm.
Up to about 5min in this video is where you would have to be. Little more work than a mount but not a crazy amount, and fairly basic really.
#10
Sounds like from the link Pelican provided it cold be either or maybe both. It lists as both could be at falt.
The Crank shouldn't be that much harder if you have a jack/stands you could get away with just moving the rad forward rather than draining and taking it out. Would require a philips screw driver and one torx screw driver a 8mm and 14mm and 16mm (I think for the bumpercarrier) socket/ratchet extentions. Bumper and bumper brace can come off in 20min easy. Then just edge the rad forward and you can get the crank sensor with a 10mm.
Up to about 5min in this video is where you would have to be. Little more work than a mount but not a crazy amount, and fairly basic really.
Front End Service mode 2002-06 MINI Cooper/radiator/bumper removal howto - YouTube
The Crank shouldn't be that much harder if you have a jack/stands you could get away with just moving the rad forward rather than draining and taking it out. Would require a philips screw driver and one torx screw driver a 8mm and 14mm and 16mm (I think for the bumpercarrier) socket/ratchet extentions. Bumper and bumper brace can come off in 20min easy. Then just edge the rad forward and you can get the crank sensor with a 10mm.
Up to about 5min in this video is where you would have to be. Little more work than a mount but not a crazy amount, and fairly basic really.
Front End Service mode 2002-06 MINI Cooper/radiator/bumper removal howto - YouTube
Pelican - Are you suggesting I try the connection first, then replace the CAM if need be and clear codes, then last resort an code still pops up then try rhe CRANK??
#11
Thank you both for the information. That is something I think I could definitely do on my own. I was under the impression that on my 2006 r53 the sensor was on the front of the engine block behind the radiator. I feel stupid now. So is this the CAM we are talking about and the CRANK is the one I was thinking?
So, from the link I posted it suggested there could be wire issues or either of those sensors have failed. Since you don't have the tools and space to perform a full diagnosis you could try to see if any of loose connection or damaged wires, if not, then replace the cam sensor and see if that resolves your issue. You could also wait until Saturday for your appointment and have them confirm it's the cam sensor. However, from the thread I linked to it sounds like the cam sensor could be your culprit. From most of the threads I've run across with that code, the cam sensor fixed it.
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
#12
Correct, the cam sensor is located on the passenger side of the engine and the crank sensor is located towards the front and requires a bit more effort to get to.
So, from the link I posted it suggested there could be wire issues or either of those sensors have failed. Since you don't have the tools and space to perform a full diagnosis you could try to see if any of loose connection or damaged wires, if not, then replace the cam sensor and see if that resolves your issue. You could also wait until Saturday for your appointment and have them confirm it's the cam sensor. However, from the thread I linked to it sounds like the cam sensor could be your culprit. From most of the threads I've run across with that code, the cam sensor fixed it.
So, from the link I posted it suggested there could be wire issues or either of those sensors have failed. Since you don't have the tools and space to perform a full diagnosis you could try to see if any of loose connection or damaged wires, if not, then replace the cam sensor and see if that resolves your issue. You could also wait until Saturday for your appointment and have them confirm it's the cam sensor. However, from the thread I linked to it sounds like the cam sensor could be your culprit. From most of the threads I've run across with that code, the cam sensor fixed it.
#13
Ok that sounds like a good plan. I appreciate all the help you have been giving. I checked the wires, and plug today and it seemed like it was all good. Just to see if it was exactly what I was dealing with over the last month I unplugged the sensor completely and started the car up. EXACT same issue so I am thinking its a faulty sensor or wire harness. I plugged all back in tight, had autozone clear the code, and reset the ECU on my own. And nothing yet, I am going to drive to the dealer tmrw about 2.5 hours and ill see if the light or anything comes on. If not I might just have them run a test to see if it came back but so far I am pretty confident it is the CAM sensor.
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
#14
#16
The steering angle sensor is basically steering wheel position. In order for the DSC to operate correctly, the vehicle must know where the front wheels are pointing.
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
#17
Is your tire indicator on as well? Good quote about the steering angle sensor from this thread here.
Some really good info about the steering angle sensor issue here, which was indeed the culprit and once replaced the issue was fixed. See if your issue sounds the same as it might be a good place to start.
Some really good info about the steering angle sensor issue here, which was indeed the culprit and once replaced the issue was fixed. See if your issue sounds the same as it might be a good place to start.
What's the right why to support the engine for the sensor swap? I don't want to crack an oil pan or something.
#18
Steffen was getting a P0340, which indicated a CAM sensor issue. Are you getting this code as well? You're specifically getting a steering angle sensor fault so your issue may not be the same as Steffen's, but I could be wrong. Most of what I am finding about the steering angle sensor issue is combined with a tire pressure indicator light, but I did find this thread here and he didn't have that indicator one as well. Ended up being the angle sensor for him.
For the cam shaft sensor, there is a step by step process including where to jack it up in this thread here. Linked directly to the post.
For the cam shaft sensor, there is a step by step process including where to jack it up in this thread here. Linked directly to the post.
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
#19
#20
Ok, just checking! Also, the runflat is noted in those threads as a symptom if the angle sensor is bad.
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
#23
As to the engine mount question- if you look at the whole engine, there are two beefy engine mounts (aluminum castings) that hold the main weight of the block+tranny assembly from each end (left and right). Then there are two lighter weight mounts (high and low) that resist the torque reaction of the engine. It is one of these lighter mounts that is in the way of the cam sensor. You can remove and replace it (just two bolts) without supporting the engine --as long as you don't run the engine--. If you needed to take off the beefy engine mount (4 bolts + a nut) on the end of the block, you would definitely need to support the weight of the engine.