R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Catalytic Converter/Emissions Test/Check Engine Light

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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 07:28 PM
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Catalytic Converter/Emissions Test/Check Engine Light

Hello,

I'm moving from Nebraska to Arizona next month and bring my Mini on my new adventure. About 3 years ago my check engine light came on. My mechanic told me it registered as a failed catalytic converter. He told me I would fail an emissions test, but since we don't have those in Nebraska I had nothing to worry about and he would clear the check engine light and save me a $2,000 repair.

Now I'm trying to prepare for my first emissions test - changed spark plugs and wires, oil change, and air filter recharge. I'm wondering if my mechanic turning off my check engine light is going to make the process any harder for me? By that, I mean will the mechanics in AZ be saying "no, it's not showing a failed converter, so let's do all of this other emissions tune up work" not realizing it had previously showed the converter failure?

Hopefully that makes sense...any insight is appreciated!
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 07:39 PM
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ZippyNH
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Automatic fail....
when you reset a light....you cannot test the car till the computer has completed a drive cycle...or it is an automatic FAIL. initially when you start driving after a reset...there will be a number of "monitors"...as you drive, each one will complete its "test" and say I'm ok for testing...when ALL the monitors say OK..THEN the car can be tested...when a monitor fail...the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT will be lit.
Simplest thing...have a universal cat welded in with a new o2 sensors (strongly suggest OEM)...universals are not perfect...but much cheaper than an OEM...and you can use them in every state except CA and NY I think....
few folks might have other tips..but they are IFFY at best for getting a pass...
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 07:41 PM
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ZippyNH
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From: Southern NH
PS the "tricks to pass" ONLY work if the car is tested with plug in only...if a SNIFFER and or dyno test is used...it will fail...
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 07:45 PM
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Thanks for the info. I think my plan was just to fail the test (just to be sure), take it to the dealership for the new cat converter, and then retake the test.

How long of a waiting period or "drive cycle" after i get the new converter before I can re-test?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 08:26 PM
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ZippyNH
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From: Southern NH
Not sure what the "drive cycle"is on the MINI....but about a weeks worth of normal driving....a mix of short and longer trips...some warm starts..some cold starts...I would plan on a full tank of gas if you do not have an ODB reader to plug in to check it...the cheap $40 ones from harboutfreight can check the monitors and reset codes.
I think you might have a heart attack when you see the $$$$ of an OEM cat.....serious. NOT CHEAP...best option IMO..but pricey.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 08:28 PM
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So...I might as well just go get it done now before I move so I can just pass and get it registered without waiting?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 08:33 PM
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What year car...
The emissions warranty is MUCH longer than the rest of the warranties....10 years (might be 8, not sure the miles limit)... I think...you might be able to get it done under warranty....
Not sure how hard AZ is to pass....
at minimum, they LOOK for a cat, and plug into the odb port...some do more...
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 08:34 PM
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It's a 2004 Model year. I'm sure I'm just outside the 10 year warranty.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 01:19 PM
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Check Engine Light happened to come on yesterday. Stopped by AutoZone for a free read. P2096 came on. The guy said it's the same code that previously popped when a (non-mini) shop told me i needed a new cat converter. AutoZone (for whatever it's worth) told me it could be a number of things but rarely this code alone means I need a new cat.

Searched the forums and it looks like it can be an utter nightmare getting rid of 2096 and figuring out what actually triggered it. Heading to the dealer on Saturday morning. I want to cry. Honestly thought about getting rid of the poor thing. Don't have the funds to pour several thousand in with my upcoming move.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 02:07 PM
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If you don't have a lot of money then why go to a dealer? That will guarantee that you spend money. An independant would be better value.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 02:10 PM
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As I said, the independent I went to recommended a $2,000 cat converter, which based on my research isn't necessarily going to fix the issue. Their recommendation was based solely on the 2096 code read. This independent I went to is the only shop in town I could find that would even look at my Mini. Hence I'm driving an hour to Omaha to see a dealer...who I assume is more familiar with it.
 
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