R50/53 Early R53 Clock Wiring
Early R53 Clock Wiring
Can't seem to find an answer to this in Bentley or anywhere else...
Trying to determine which wire is which for the early R53 roof clock. I can guess, but I thought someone may know for sure...
Edit - wires are:
Red/Green = 12v
Grey/Red = DCU
Black/brown = gnd
Trying to determine which wire is which for the early R53 roof clock. I can guess, but I thought someone may know for sure...
Edit - wires are:
Red/Green = 12v
Grey/Red = DCU
Black/brown = gnd
Last edited by exocet; Feb 2, 2014 at 12:06 PM. Reason: Determined wire polarity and use
I don't have a wiring diagram but if I had to guess one would be 12V+, one would be ground and the third would be a signal from the instrument cluster to adjust the backlight brightness. With a multimeter, it should be easy to figure out which is which.
Thanks. No exposed wire there and can't get the multimeter into the connector. Brown is the gnd. I assume gn/rd is the 12v - bmw seem to associate gn with 12v sometimes...
When changing from map lights to the clock?
Edit - wires are:
Red/Green = 12v
Grey/Red = DCU
Black/brown = gnd[/QUOTE]
in changing the map lights back to the clock what colours do you connect to as the wiring loom to the map? Light are now slightly different colours? What colours cables go to what?
Red/Green = 12v
Grey/Red = DCU
Black/brown = gnd[/QUOTE]
in changing the map lights back to the clock what colours do you connect to as the wiring loom to the map? Light are now slightly different colours? What colours cables go to what?
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Ancient post, I know, but I can't let this go.
Never stick anything into the front of a connector unless it's the same size as the male terminal intended for that connector or smaller.
Female terminals are extremely fragile and it is very easy to damage them. If you have to test, use a "nail" (sewing needle works well) inserted from the backside of the connector. You can still damage some terminals this way but you're almost guaranteed to cause a loose/intermittent connection issue by cramming test leads into the front of a connector.
If you want to be super fancy, one can buy assortments of jumper leads that have different species male and female ends on one end and standard banana plugs for your multimeter test leads at the other end.
https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Specialties-149-Universal-Connector/dp/B078X1CR8T/ref=asc_df_B078X1CR8T/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw= g&hvrand=16807588235187068914&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqm t=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015310&hv targid=pla-2281435177418&psc=1&mcid=66adeae267cb3fe281db1b21a d317290&hvocijid=16807588235187068914-B078X1CR8T-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1
Never stick anything into the front of a connector unless it's the same size as the male terminal intended for that connector or smaller.
Female terminals are extremely fragile and it is very easy to damage them. If you have to test, use a "nail" (sewing needle works well) inserted from the backside of the connector. You can still damage some terminals this way but you're almost guaranteed to cause a loose/intermittent connection issue by cramming test leads into the front of a connector.
If you want to be super fancy, one can buy assortments of jumper leads that have different species male and female ends on one end and standard banana plugs for your multimeter test leads at the other end.
https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Specialties-149-Universal-Connector/dp/B078X1CR8T/ref=asc_df_B078X1CR8T/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw= g&hvrand=16807588235187068914&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqm t=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015310&hv targid=pla-2281435177418&psc=1&mcid=66adeae267cb3fe281db1b21a d317290&hvocijid=16807588235187068914-B078X1CR8T-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1
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Good call...

