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I am currently in progress (90%) done with a replacement/reproduction oil bypass valves. I know this is somewhat of a common problem, and the parts are unavailable unless you purchase the oil filter housing in completion (and hope that it includes it ). I have the model finished and the prototype is on the way. I plan on running my car on it for some miles as a test dummy, but it will be made of nylon and the properties should be able to withstand the environment that it will be in (if you know what a factor of safety is, I set mine to 1.5, a typical FoS in the automotive field from what I know).
I personally have dealt with two broken valves, one when I first purchased it, and this one when I received it and barely wiggled it, it broke. A couple times I have read about other peoples valves breaking and having to purchase a oil filter housing either brand new ($200+) or buying one on Ebay and hoping everything is included (still $100+).
Thanks for reading, and hopefully anyone who runs into this issue again can work through this!
Last edited by Tanner Stinson; Mar 26, 2018 at 02:10 PM.
And if you wan to start selling them, let me know as can get you in contact with the IB sales folks, or, get you with some current vendors to see if you can work a deal out with them.
Just got the prototype. No issues with it, other than the hooks on the "top hat" part are a little small, so I have to make a slight adjustment to them. I am going to soak it in engine oil for a few days, then by Wednesday I am going to throw in the new oil filter housing when I change the fluids. Springs fit just fine!
Final models will be black. White was cheaper and quicker for the prototype.
Both sets of hooks are also much more flexible than the original. I can touch the opposing sides to each other and they do not snap. On the three hooks for the housing, I can touch all three together without any breaking.
90% correct. "Selective Laser Sintering," essentially 3D printing but with powder and lasers.
For a somewhat low-volume production such as this, it makes much more sense than injection molding with a mold, especially because of the very complex shape.
A mold would require 6 different parts to it, and would cost over $5k. 5K would make a lot of parts!
Update: I am now 300 miles in and I have no engine light, so that's good!
I plan on getting it to 500 miles then pulling it to see if there is any pitting/signs of chemical change. It has been hitting triple digits here in the Phoenix Valley so my engine is getting pushed at the high side of temps!
I have made up some poster boards for our MOTD Tent. I have one board that highlights three threads each by different member. You are the "Raised on Social Media" post. Have a Raised on Color TV and Raised on B&W TV as well. Figured these were more catchy than Young, Middle Age and Old . . . . . .
Update: I am now 300 miles in and I have no engine light, so that's good!
I plan on getting it to 500 miles then pulling it to see if there is any pitting/signs of chemical change. It has been hitting triple digits here in the Phoenix Valley so my engine is getting pushed at the high side of temps!
Sounds good- if you would like a place to sell it online we may be able to work with you - after confirming that the part is holding up with the heat cycles and exposure to oil, etc.
From: Portland, OR *currently in a temporary email address
Dude, I'm so happy you ran with it. Also huge props to Outmotoring for picking up a project like this. I saw the valve the site a while ago and I had a feeling Tanner was somehow involved. Now I know for sure, so rad!!
Anyways, v proud of you dude, you literally modeled & produced a thing that now allows the entire community to deal with a very costly replacement for a very reasonable price. 10/10 would buy,
Side note: requesting creative credit for the idea
Dude, I'm so happy you ran with it. Also huge props to Outmotoring for picking up a project like this. I saw the valve the site a while ago and I had a feeling Tanner was somehow involved. Now I know for sure, so rad!!
Anyways, v proud of you dude, you literally modeled & produced a thing that now allows the entire community to deal with a very costly replacement for a very reasonable price. 10/10 would buy,
Side note: requesting creative credit for the idea
hey! Long time no talk. Meant to message you but new phone, didn’t have any old numbers. And yes, creative credit goes to you sir, let me know when and I’ll buy you a beer/bring one over!
I presume this valve comes into play when you change oil filters and the cansiter.
what is the statue of it?
Correct. More than rarely, the valve will break if the filter is put in at an angle or aggressively, mainly from the brittleness of the material BMW used. There are a whole slew of posts about this oil pressure issue, I know I personally posted one, and this is a much more time/cost efficient manner of fixing it
So I have a 2002 R50 with the spring and basket in the canister.What is the process to switch using your valve and where can they be purchased?
Thanks
Fred.
It should be the same process as a non-canister. As far as switching it, I’ve only done mine when it has been broken, so I’d you are adamant about switching it, I’d say break it?? If you don’t want to break it, I’d say either hold off or just keep one on hand until one of the tabs breaks.
You should be able to buy one on OutMotoring. Go ahead and go to this address:
From: Portland, OR *currently in a temporary email address
Originally Posted by Tanner Stinson
hey! Long time no talk. Meant to message you but new phone, didn’t have any old numbers. And yes, creative credit goes to you sir, let me know when and I’ll buy you a beer/bring one over!
For sure! Sun Devil Motorsports will be at the Homecoming parade this weekend. You should stop by!
Tanner,
Want to thank you for what your doing. This is really needed.
I have a 2002 MINI S, and mine also broke. I was not happy. I was able to get an oil filter housing from scrap yard. I took a saw and cut close to the valve, and removed it. I then placed in my MINI.
Several things I've learned about this bad design:
1. It is too small in physical size, thus has limited strength, and too hard a material, thus easy to break.
2. The filter itself bears against the valve, thus as filter cap is installed the force excessively compresses the valve.
3. As filter cap is turned the filter also turns, thus introduces shear to the valve, compounded by the downward force.
4. I learned that FORD Power Master trucks use the same type valve. FORD recognizes this and offers replacement at auto part stores, about $20, made with plastic. I purchased one. I installed this and it fit neatly into the scap MINI housing. Checking the clearance shows that the FORD part is too short to match the MINIS's valve height, thus too much oil will flow back into engine, thus reducing flow and/or pressure. The FORD part will work if a small plastic piece can be "glued" to the top of this valve, to gain same stroke as MINI part.
My point is that MINI screwed up. Part is poor design and they need to offer replacement, and offer parts via a parts store, FORD does it. Reference DORMAN 904-261, FORD POWER Master truck, 2003-2009.
My point is that I believe that not offering a correction, and that the number of people who've had to replace their oil filter base is totally unfair to us owners, so much so, that MINI must offer a correction at no cost. Of course the issue is how to make them do that. I hate to say this, ..... but file a class action suit. Stating they made a serious error that compromised the safety of the engine, added concern and stress to owners on how to replace, and required owner to purchase an expensive part to repair that require several hundred dollars to fix, and negated the value and enjoyment of having this car.
Given this, and if an owner we have is a lawyer, then we file a class action suit stating the above, MINI offer corrected part, and return payments to those who've had to pay such costs, citing that FORD has this part via local parts stores.
I myself would pay $50 for this part, just not to have to deal with removing the oil assembly, for doesn't coolant need replace too?
I'm an engineer, but not mechanical. My above points would need to be validated.
MINI messed up, knows of it, and doesn't want to pay for its error. I want to state my findings. Please review my comments.
John
In my opinion, constant message board attention to the issue stands the greatest chance of a satisfactory solution, although it may not result in an admission of error by Mini. Take for example my sticky post from 12 years ago, "Low speed fan resistor - we need solution." As of today (10/30/18) it has been viewed almost 600,000 times. I suspect that it was instrumental in development of the relatively inexpensive replacement resistor also sold by Dorman.
JAB,
I've had mine since March 2003. I had same issue with low speed resistor, forced to make updates.
I do see that Outmotoring offers this, which is very good. I agree about admission of error by MINI, so why should they? What may catch the attention would be class action suit. To my understanding only three people are needed to start such a legal issue, but I'm not a lawyer. Even so, MINI should and must honor its customers.
TY
John
). I have the model finished and the prototype is on the way. I plan on running my car on it for some miles as a test dummy, but it will be made of nylon and the properties should be able to withstand the environment that it will be in (if you know what a factor of safety is, I set mine to 1.5, a typical FoS in the automotive field from what I know).
If you don’t want to break it, I’d say either hold off or just keep one on hand until one of the tabs breaks. 
