not sure if this would work or not but. i had an idea while searching and reading a lot of the posts on flushing the coolant effectively. the idea comes from the use of the Flush kit that uses a tee and garden hose attached to the heater hose (which i couldn't find for the life of me) and running water through the whole system till its clear, well I like distilled water better and thought maybe if you remove the thermostat from the the housing, replace the housing then remove the return hose to the reservoir so that while the engine runs it drains through the return hose into a receptacle while you are adding distilled water to the reservoir till it runs clean then add coolant till you see coolant running out, then turn off car, replace return hose, replace thermostat and bleed the system and top off as needed. any thoughts? just to make things clear, this does NOT use the tee valve or tap water. just not sure if this theory would work.

 

Wow, hadn't thought about this in a long time.

I worked in auto parts for some years in the 70's; you could buy a Prestone kit that would put that "T" in your heater hose, undo the radiator cap, put your heater on "full", and let 'er rip. Or, some suggested, undo the lower radiator hose for less mess (and capture the toxic-to-animals coolant vs. flushing down the storm drain / floor drain <shudder>).

Geez. They still sell these!

http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AFKIT.../dp/B000CCFY5W

Wasn't much of a challenge to splice into those long heater hoses on your '72 Chevelle, very easy to get to. More challenging these days for sure.

Some of the xpress-lube places use (or are supposed to) a flushing machine that has a similar concept: they connect one supply hose to an "inlet", and a draft hose to an "outlet", fire it up, drain/flush all the old stuff, and then flow in the new stuff. Supposed to work and need no air-bleeding, since no "air" ever enters the system.

No, I wouldn't trust my MINI to them (without the service agent being a family member or something...maybe not then even).

 

yea thats why i thought about removing the thermostat to do this because obviously it would stay closed due to the constant introduction of cool water. and you wouldn't have to cut a hose, although i wouldn't think twice about doing it that way if I could find the right hose to install the Tee, but I also like the idea of using only distilled water. only the best for my Mini , anyways, so do you think my idea would work? also I have never tried replacing the thermostat so i'm not sure if that will be a lot of work or not, i know the intake has got to come out, no biggie, its an Alta so R/R is easy. any heads ups, or additions to the idea are welcome.

 

well since im not getting much feedback on this idea, i'm going to take a plunge and do it and replace my thermostat at the same time (has 75k miles on it, while im in there, might as well) and i'll try to take pics and if remember try to do write up on how to and my experience in doing it. still up for ideas if anyone has any.

 

I'd try to come up with a way to install a T and fitting so that you don't have to take the thermostat out. If that's possible.

And excellent that you're only using distilled water.

 

Does anyone have an idea of a location for the T fitting like the one that comes with the prestone flush kit. I'd use it if I knew where to cut. I'd also be using an electric water pump to pump in distilled water, if i get this right i'll be able to flush the system with straight distilled water and water wetter for non freezing months and switch to 50/50 + water wetter for winter. but i need to know where to cut, can't seem to find the right place. Found it on several other cars like mustangs and f-150s but not on a MINI.

 

Kinda suggest using more than just water and water wetter (unless the car will be used in a track that prohibits coolant)during the summer months...mostly to get the corrosion protection package and the lube from the coolant and additives..

Suggestion...do a flush...about 50% of the water will be stuck in the block...add a 50% mix of coolant more or less to get to 30% or so mix using a tester...so ypu have s bit boilover protection...when fall comes , drop the lower rad hose...this will drain about 50% of the system...then add more 50% mix...will get you to about the usual 50% mix (with a bit of tweaking for the tester to get it right...huess, add a cup more stright coolant...then come summer, drop the lower line...add distilled water...
Once the system is matained, and clean from the first flush if neglected, just doing your change over will keep it fresh...more than needed, but accomplish what you want for less work!!

 

Yea your right about the benefits of the coolant vs. straight water and will probably use 50% mix and not worry about an 8 degree difference. BUT, the person who had the car before me seems to have neglected the coolant/brakes/belt etc.....for 75000 miles. so I want to get everything out if possible and clean it up. maybe run some kind of cleaner through it prior to flushing it. I already dropped the bottom hose and removed a gallon of fluid and replaced with 50/50 but after that the fluid in it is still a opaque brown color. so i want to flush 100% and not have to drop the hose, refill, drive for a bit drop the hose again and again and again...kinda annoying and has to be easier.

can anyone tell me which hose is the right one for the T fitting? otherwise i think i'm going to go the route of removing the thermostat for a flush with engine running.

any suggestions on a detergent to run through the cooling system to help clean it out?

 

Or just use the hose to really flush things out and then make sure that you do a complete flush with distilled water to get all the tap water out.

 

of course that would work too...but i still don't know where to install that "T" fitting. there isn't an obvious location that i can see unless there is one under the vehicle i need to use. I'd still like to use the T if possible, but will go the empty thermostat way if I can not find the correct hose to splice into.

 

I'm a fan of distilled as well, but was a bit more pedestrian in my approach. Dump the rad, fill with distilled, repeat until all is clear, then add coolant.
I'd never run tap water through it. Our local water is very 'hard'. I don't want what I see on my shower head to be in my engine block!

 

I'd have to look into it further, but if you look at the parts diagrams at Real OEM, it appears that there's a connection on the thermostat housing that bypasses the thermostat. Perhaps that's one place to tap into. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...90&hg=11&fg=35

And if you look here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...33&hg=17&fg=05 , there appears to be a T with a vent that could be replaced with something else to tap into the system. Just be sure to maintain the ability to vent at that point so that all the air can be purged from the system.

There are likely other points that you could tap into as well. You may have to have some custom parts made. Maybe take that T vent and modify it if the material is suitable.

 

If the color of the coolant is odd, i bet you have a witches brew of differant coolants in there....
i'd flush it a few times...get the crap out...tap water if needed for the flush...
Then pour a few gallons of demileralized/distilled water to finish....this is one case that sheer volum of water to get the crap out would imo outweighed the benifits of no minerals....afterall the minerals must preticipate out from evopration to be deposited....flush, and then a rinse with mineral free water, and all should be fine. The possible mix and ph issues if the prior owner mixed dex cool (orange) in there worries me....just get it out...be sure to let the car idle, heat on a time or two...tgat will allow the thermostat to open...snd ensure the heater core is changed over too....

 

hi guys,

i am hoping one of you pro's might add some light if this works.
i want to do a flush and the intention is to even remove the stuff in heater core without taking it apart.
what if i run the car with heater max, fan low for a minute or more and shutdown.
i am assuming the thermostat opens when I turn on heater and stays open for a brief time after engine shut down.
now since engine ran only for a brief time coolant is not too hot and when i remove the lower rad hose, every thing from rad,engine block and heater core should now be in my catch pan.

Is my assumption correct. if wrong can you please explain.

Thank you
pavan