Posting this looking for assistance and another set of eyes.

So as of Friday I have a new issues loss of power along with rough idle and visible soot being blown out of the muffler. If RPM's are under 3K I have a difficult time getting above 30MPH also suffering from a random misfire.

So far no codes were generated!!!

Now for the back story, Its a 2011 with 98,000 miles on it and for the past six months I have had codes P0599 for the thermostat control circuit, and a p0420 for a catalytic system below threshold. Car is also suffering from the normal BMW/Mini issues i.e. coolant leaks from water pump.

Yesterday I did some checking and plugs were covered in soot (surprise!!) these were changed around 85,000 miles due to a random misfire.

Did some running evaluations with the scangauge and running issues and visible carbon was only occurring during closed loop operation.

Checked catalytic converter with an infrared thermometer and exhaust tubing was showing 540-600 degrees prior to catalytic converter and about the same right after catalytic converter.

Also Pulled pre catalytic oxygen sensor and discover it was packed in carbon as well.

Ran both plugs and oxygen sensor through a ten minute ultrasonic bath with denatured alcohol.

Upon reinstall and 2nd round of testing had about 5 minutes where car was running with rough idle, visible carbon, and misfire then cleared.

right now car is running at 90% still have a slight loss of power but no carbon and no misfire. I am also able to do well over 30MPH with no issues


At this point I am suspecting a faling pre catalytic converter oxygen sensor along with the catalytic converter being nonfunctional.

What's your thoughts and any other ideas probably will order a pre catalytic oxygen sensor. Also planning on addressing the coolant leak and thermostat issues as well.

Will also say I do love this car but not really thrilled with pretty much all of the exhaust emissions parts failing at this low of milage!!!


Chris

Adding VIN in hopes that the next potential buyer will find this info WMWSU3C54BT182709

 

How is the oil consumption?

 

not bad as i can tell 1.5 quarts per 7500 miles

Also will add for the past two years my commute is only 10 miles one way.

 

Then it doesn't seem like the soot is coming from oil blowby. As you have mentioned radiator fluid leaks, perhaps dealing with those might help although if they were directly causing a power loss there would be codes.

The plugs put in at 85k, they were exactly the right ones for the base model?

The only other thing I can think of is clogged exhaust, and you mentioned checking the cat temps but I am still wondering about that because of the power loss.

*Perhaps loading the tank with some upper cylinder lubricant/fuel system cleaner and going for a 300 mile highway trip might help?

 

See replies in Blue

 

Well, get the leaks fixed and go for a long spirited drive, that much heat over a prolonged period might reveal the issue or fix them.

 

Thanks RockAZ,

Planning on a highway run soon along with running 3m injector cleaner and a tank of cleaner.

Anyone else have any ideas or suggestions I know this is a bit of new territory as most 2011+ cars are not this high on milage.


Chris

 

Well, just one more thought from me - you started off stating 30% power loss on the butt dyno with uneven idle - that is significant that you brought back the idle and some of the power with cleaning the plugs and sensors. But 10% power loss on the butt dyno is subjective, (on a justa you are talking about, what? 12hp?) hard to nail down without more science. I mean you could lose that much from a sticking brake caliper. For instance, a full compression test on the cylinders might give you some numbers.

I still would fix the leaks and go for a long drive with some cleaner in the tank, maybe you just picked up some bad gas a few times?

 

Update,


Issue reoccurred today with no codes again. shutdown car and disconnected MAF with no change in operation. drove for another 5 miles then reconnected MAF and disconnected pre catalyst oxygen sensor still no change in operation, and NO Codes!!


don't know if in the global parts bin the ECU/DME is shipping from China, Russia, or India but really should be giving some sort of code.




Car is now at Mini of Mt Laurel awaiting evaluation. Time to hold onto my wallet!!

 

Friendly bump,

Expecting to hear from dealer today so keeping fingers crossed.

Also was digging through old post and about three years ago has a similar issues at 45K and turned out to be the VANOS system believe repair cost was north of 2000.00

 

just got off the phone with the dealer


Oxygen sensor is no good, expected that

bad news is there finding actual liquid oil in exhaust and have not identified the source, compression on all cylinders is good however?

 

2nd call back

There unable to diagnose any further without replacing the thermostat and pre catalytic oxygen sensor at a cost of 1k

There's still a good chance for another 1500.00 to 2500.00 in repairs

 

Anyone?

Dealer is saying might be at the point car should be replaced.
As much as I would love to get a newer car seems like overkill.

Also don't wanna throw $$ at it and still not resolve the base issue.

 

Why you want to pay dealers insane prices is a mystery, not a good way to hold on to your wallet! It takes ten minutes to change out an O2 sensor and you can more than half the price for the thermostat housing install at a Mini independent specialty shop. Your oil could be coming from the valve guides, that would require a rebuilt head, get a second opinion because most don't trust dealers! Most are dishonest and over priced!

Of course they want you to buy a new car, so they can fix up and sell it. They won't give you hardly anything for the trade-in, so they can fix up your car and sell it for a larger profit than they make selling new cars. Walk away and don't look back!

 

Anyone else,

Not a fan of the dealership myself would much rather do my own repairs. However some issues like what I am dealing with at the moment are over my head and to be honest time available. My local mechanic is not really a fan of working on the mini because let's face it the car is quite a PIA to work on due to space, layers of components, and BMW specific tools.

 

I understand not everyone lives near qualified mechanics at an independent shop, I find I must drive out of my area to get competent mechanics for working on Mini's. Even worse is when you only live near a dealer that doesn't have mechanics qualified enough to be working on your car. This is grounds for not even buying a Mini if you don't have access to competent mechanics.

 

no competent mechanics for Mini Coopers around my area either. I do all my own mechanic work. good way to learn about your car. of course, I have been working on cars for 30 years and not afraid to tackle challenging cars...

 

Bringing to a 2nd mechanic this weekend and also looking into autotrader as there offering 4800 for the car as is.

If my mechanic thinks the car can be repaired this list below is what Im planning on having him address

1. coolant system refresh (pump, thermostat, ridge tube behind block, expansion tank, all hoses and cap)
2. oxygen sensor
3. repair oil leak (from sensor )
4. do the justa's have a vacuum pump? and is it an issue might replace this so the motor wont kill it's self after doing all this work


Chris

 

Just got off the phone with the mechanic 2nd op and confirmed what the dealership has said roughly 2k and will still have outstanding issues. Looks like I will be moving forward with replacing the car. Kicking and screaming the whole way in!!!

 

My suggestion is to fix it yourself, for way cheaper than a mechanic, or the cost of replacing the car. You will learn quickly that not only is the dealer the most expensive possible route, but there is no guarantee of quality work just because they have a Mini sign.

Those issues are very fixable in your driveway with basic tools and a weekend, especially with how many DIY videos and guides there are these days.

 

+1 on DIY. With lots of great DIY threads on here coupled with what we have with our articles here, you'd just be out on parts and your time. Can search for your parts HERE to compile a list to see what pricing would be and if you decide to do this you can use COOPER promo code at the end for select OE brands to help save you money. Otherwise, if you decide to trade it in for a new one, good luck and hope you get into another MINI!

 

So had a conversation with my mechanic and DIY or paying him opinion is still the same. The N18 motor is a pain to support and is still suffering its fair share of issues.

Coolant system issues, Valve Cover issues ( both leaking and breathing issues )

Electrical issues why is my car having a failing O2 and MAF @ 4.5 years and 98K miles these are issues that will arise on an older car but not both at the same time.

Vanos issues leaking actuator 2nd time for issues with this system.

So in the end the car is more along the lines of a 10 year old car and he thinks it will be a $$ pit going forward.

Also as to keeping the car if these problems are so minor and easy to fix why has there been no interest in buying my car via the forums. because no one knows the long term durability of this motor yet.

If no one is willing to buy my car here for 3500.00 its another strike against this car.

Love this car brand ( till about three weeks ago ) and you guys but i must move away from the family think my days of owning European brands are over too much cost in keeping them on the road. Even the new BMW 1.5 triple's have been puking oil before even hitting there first service.


Will be taking the car this week to a wholesale car buyer to see what they will give me. After that thinking Honda Fit, or Mazda 3 hatchback Grand Touring.

 

O2 sensors are only good for 100,000 miles and your at 98,000, close enough. The MAF going bad is a fluke and not common, Bosch makes high quality sensors. Mini's are not the best car to buy in my opinion. You have fared pretty well compared to others.

 

So After having two professinal opinions on the car I have decided to move forward with a replacement Mini.

I traded in this past Friday for a 2015 F56 and I will say it was a bittersweet moment because this car was the first one I was truly happy with until the issues noted here started.

I wish whoever gets the car is able to bring her back, If your finding this thread please PM me as I would love to see what you do. For me it just came down to time, its been a crazy year with buying a house/remodeling/fixing stuff for everyone/work.

To everyone here in the 2nd gen forums thanks for your help and hope to see you soon.

#SaveTheWave

 

I realize this post is quite old but I hope someone still comes here as I did. I have a 2010 with 120k it came in the shop today because the check engine light was on, the only code was coolant temp probability or something and the level was low enough to not have a working heater. I'm not sure what's up with the coolant yet that's not why I'm here. I noticed the low power, rough idle and low rpm missfires. I really wish I would have stayed late and checked it out to have an answer right now but I'll post again tomorrow when I figure it out. My first test will be volumetric efficiency. And one last thing NOTHING with direct injection benefits at all from fuel additives promising upper intake cleaning, the injectors are after the intake valves and minis are the worst carbon builders of the bunch. I'll have an answer and how I got there tomorrow