I was attending an event at my local Mini dealership and they were offering free inspections for everyone. So since I just bought my Mini last month I thought it would be a good idea to have a Mini dealership look at it.

Well they found that the drive belt is frayed and needs to be replaced ASAP. So I set up an appointment for first thing Monday morning.

I had a question about what belt they should use.

Does it matter that I have a Dinan S2 package on the car? Would this require them to use a different drive belt than standard?

The technician noted that the current belt is a Napa belt which I thought was odd since the previous owner had a stack of paperwork from the Mini dealership so it seemed he always had it serviced at Mini but the tech said Mini wouldn't use a Napa belt. True?

 

I would say its true. I think the PO went to the local NAPA store and bought the belt at a cheaper price than the mini dealer and installed it himself/herself.
There are many locations to buy the belt. However, I do not know if the Dinan S2 system has a specialty belt without researching it. I suggest you do the reseach and find out.

 

It would be best if you referred to this as the 'serpentine' belt.

 

hmmm.....the techs at the dealership all said drive belt and the tech report they gave me also says drive belt. So why do we call it the serpentine belt on NAM?

 

Unfortunately Dinan is closed on the weekends and their website does show a "serpentine" belt but doesn't say if its a special version or certain spec.

The Dinan package doesn't seem to be very popular on here so I am having trouble figuring it out. I filled out an inquiry on Dinan's website but they probably wont respond till Monday. I may just put off the service till I get an answer from them but I dont like the idea of driving around with a frayed "serpentine belt" for much longer.

 

I would not worry about the frayed belt. It is steel reinforced. You would be surprised on how many cars out there have frayed belts and run for years. I would suggest you take the belt out tommorrow and go down to the auto parts store and see if they have a replacement. Then you will know if its a special or not. There should also be markings on the belt to tell you the manufacturer and model number.
Yes, technically, it is called the serpentine belt because it is one belt that drives multiple components unlike in the old days when you could have up to 3 or 4 belts driving seperate components.

 

I could do that but I still wouldn't know if Dinan recommends or actually used a different type/spec belt. My guess is I can just use the regular belt since obviously the previous owner didn't seem to mind using a Napa belt or the mechanic he took it to used it without him knowing.

I would just feel better if I knew for sure that the regular MCS belt was fine to use.

 

A napa belt (or any other brand ) is used when a pulley (smaller sc reduction, most common poer mod on a s) cause a stock or jcw length belt will be too long, resulting in rapid wear, slipage, and failure id a stock bt is used.
Do a serch....with YOUR % sc pulley reduction, there is a specfic length belt.

 

Ps
The shorter napa belt is the proper belt.
The mini belt is the wrong belt. Simple.
Car is modded...stock parts are no llonger the right ones....
With the higher stresses on a modded car with a pullie, changing the bely every 2 years with a 15%, or every year with a 17% is a commonrecomendation.
Installing a new mini oem belt will usually work, but it will stretch in just a bit, resulting in squeeli g, horsepowerloss, and possible beltfailure.

 

The belt is fabric....it is NOT STEEL REINFORCED.
If frayed, and it brakes, big $$$ to replace the rennsioner and the crank pulley, due to the failure of a $20 belt...think $1000 in parts plus install, plus a tow......

 

I agree with Zippy. If the belt if frayed, remove it and pick up the same one from NAPA.

 

Everything that Zippy has stated is spot on. Also, get away from the dealer and find yourself a good independent MINI mech. Belt changes should not cost you an arm and a leg but it will if you let MINI do it.

 

daflake: I think you meant to say 'belt changes should not cost you . . ."

 

A belt change is MAYBE a 30 minute job...including paperwork and prep for a pro.
With the right tool, it is a 45 minute job tops in a driveway...mybe an hour with a scocket and praybar and a helper, no tool....
Paying mini somewhere around $350 for a $20-26 belt and 1/2 shop time is nutz....
As stated above, an indepent shop is a good move...
and get the same # belt you have....most any vendor ships a pulley with a napa belt....i don't want to suggest a specfic belt length cause i am not sure what the dininan pulley is...guessing it is a 15% (most common, but the website can tell you i bet).
Good luck, and imo PARK THE CAR, THEN DRIVE IT GENTLY DIRECTLY TO THE SHOP. Still risky....if the belt snapps, the spring on the tennsioner will spring back, breaking the tensioner, and nicking the crank damper...like i said above, $1000+, and a tow, plus install.
Hope we got you good advise before anything bad happened....

 

OK. Thanks Zippy. I will have to get the belt from Napa and postpone the service. The dealership is only charging $155 for the change. Doesn't seem too bad.

 

The Dinan S2 kit appears to have included a 15% reduction SC pulley as there are references to that in the S1 kit. If that is correct, the most recommended belt on this site for that is a Napa belt. There are tons of threads on this site covering which belt to use with a 15% reduction SC pulley so you should have no problem locating the recommended part number, if you cannot locate it on the belt you have.

 

Mini at one point did install some dinan stuff with the warrenty intact, but discontinued the relationship after dinian failed to warrenty items....so it is possible your dealer is familar with your kit. Most dealers can get napa parts....they deliver....so if the dealer does, just get the right belt. Early on, the jcw belt was reccomended for cars with a pully...
But it is still a bit long once it stretches on a car with a 15-17%....

 

LOL, lack of coffee and typing don't mix. Thanks!

 

How about 1/2 of that? Many places only charge 75 to 90.

 

Zippy is correct. The belt is not steel wire reinforced. My error.
To confirm, I cut apart an old belt I changed from my MC ( i keep the old ones for various odds and ends) and found it to be reinforced with some polymer based strands. Refer to the attached photo. I would agree that you should refrain from driving the car depending on the degree of fraying but be safe rather than sorry. Change the belt as soon you can and consider doing it yourself. Its relatively easy.

 

Anyone in the Bay Area with the right tool wanna help out a newbie? I could probably do it myself if I had the tool but it looks like a PIA without it.

 

Simplest thing to do...
Jack the car up, remove the passanger side wheel, and then wheel liner...
then use the tool...or if you don't have one..
use a socket on bolt near the tensioner, then take a prybar, and using the socket (no ratchet attatched) as a fulcome, compress the tensioner...have your helper lock the tensioner in the compressed poation with a small screwdriver or allen key by putting it through the hole...make not of belt routing....remove old belt, put new one one...do ot all in reverse.
The tool runs about 90$. Makes it a one person job...pays for itself in one use. Good luck!
There are a few guides with pics, with/without the tool..pics will make it make sense.

 

Oh, and if you don't want to use the Napa belt, you can also use the Goodyear Gatorback #4060537. It's great belt for a 15% and the sound is killer. I have done the swap three times in 6 years, and about 60k mile on the Gatorback.

 

The sound?

 

Yeah, I am with you on this one. There will be no "sound" change on with a different belt. At least nothing you can really hear. Both belts are good but I prefer the Napa myself. The choice is yours.