Well seeing how my transmission is just reaching 100K and never had a problem to my knowledge( 3rd owned). I decided that maybe its time to get the transmission fluid flush, of course I called over to find out that according to that dealer it has never been serviced for it? Well now im in debat do you guys think its worth shelling out $400 to change the fluid, considering its at 96k and given the reputation of a cvt

 

It should have been done at Inspection I, but you're still overdue -- $400.00 is a small amount if it helps in increasing the life of your CVT.

 

Yes

 

400 for draining and holding a funnel for a few. ????

sounds kinda expensive.

 

No...at 96K ...sell the car!

 

Yyrd: From what I've read here, there is quite a bit of labor involved in just gaining access; starting with removing the front bumper. The fluid isn't cheap, and there's also a filter module to replace. At least one special tool is helpful; a rubber hose with a transmission fitting on one end. Still, $400 sounds a bit steep.

We just left our CVT MINI at an independent shop for it's Inspection 2 service. I specifically asked them to change the transmission fluid, so maybe I can report what I paid for parts and labor in a few days. Considering the labor involved, my own initial guesstimate was somewhere between $200 and $250 for the fluid change. Of course, I didn't communicate that to them.

 

Hmm, well I mean has anyone figured out as to what or why they've been breaking,I havent been able to find anything. Im just worried that theres already damage and its a ticking time bomb. If i do go through this which i probably will, do you think Redline or the dealer fluid is better?

 

There have been many threads on the MINI CVT problems (not all of which are lethal), so you might do a search and read for a while. I'm fairly confident that some know what happens when they go lethal; including Mini/BMW, but don't expect to get the final answer from them. Rough usage, failure to change fluid regularly, and/or maybe just dumb luck might be involved.

I don't which CVT fluid is better; I told my independent shop that either the Esso or the Redline should be okay.

I know the feeling about driving a "time bomb." Another phrase used by those with over 50k miles is "living on borrowed time." Ours is beyond 50k miles, and still works great. Some have gone over 100k miles with no problems. Still, there's always that lingering fear that it will just suddenly go belly-up.

 

$400 is too much for this. My dealership did it for about $190 a year ago.

Here's the official BMW how-to:

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/07/40/64

Despite what people say, the change is not difficult. I opted to fill from the top plug since I don't have a pump which is necessary to fill from the front plug. I just had to remove the battery box to get to the top plug. It requires 5 litres (so buy 6 US quarts to be safe!). The above link describes the procedure of going through the gears after filling, which is pretty standard for all automatic transmissions. The level is correct when fluid stops coming out the level plug facing the front of the car after going through all the "gears" and the car on and in neutral. The bumper cover does not need to be removed, only the plastic undercarriage protector.

I'm currently using the Redline Non-Slip CVT Fluid, and low speed ratios are much smoother than on the 20k old Esso (as it should be). My guess is the Redline stuff is probably just as good or better than the Esso.

See below for how to reset the clutch and ratio adaptations.

Also, the recommended interval from ZF, the manufacturer of the transmission is 45000km or about 28k miles.

Now, changing the CVT filter...that's a pain!

 

Hi gknorr, does this mean when u filling the new fluid u keep the level plug open and when u see the oil coming out from the level plug than u stop and tighten the level plug?

Thanks

 

I just found how to do this, but it will still require the BMW diagnostic software that connects via the OBDII port. You can buy a cable on eBay that comes with software for about $50. I plan on buying on and giving it a try soon.

CVT adaptation
For adaptation of the CVT transmission, the following steps must be carried out as instructed; if necessary step I can also be carried out individually.

I. Clutch adaptation
Press the brake pedal in the following steps.

1. Start the cold engine. At increased idle speed, shift to N for 10 s, then shift to D for 10 s.

XP is indicated in the P position in the display.

2. Repeat the following ten times: Shift to N for 3 s, then shift to D for 3 s.

XP is indicated in the P position in the display.

3. Repeat the following ten times: Shift to N for 3 s, then shift to R for 3 s.

XP is indicated in the P position in the display.

II. Step-up ratio adaptation
1. Accelerate the vehicle to a speed > 80 km/h. Release the accelerator pedal and allow the vehicle to coast. The transmission adapts itself for 4500, 4000, ..., 1500 and 1400 rpm. P is indicated in the P position in the display.

2. The engine has now reached operating temperature. The idle speed is 800 rpm. Repeat steps 2 and 3 of clutch adaptation.

3. Turn ignition lock to position 0.

Important:

Wait for at least 10 mins. before possible disconnection from the battery and/or DME engine control module.

 

No, you want to keep that level plug in when you're filling from the top. After filling, tighten the top plug, replace the battery, and go through the gears as follows:

- Move selector lever to "P" position.
- Start engine.
- Apply foot brake.
- After 10 seconds of engine operation, shift through all drive positions, ensuring that the selector lever remains in each position for 5 seconds.
- Move selector lever to 'M' position.
- Release foot brake.
- Press accelerator pedal slightly (engine speed less than 2500 rpm) and manually shift through 1st to 6th gears.
Leave in 6th gear for approx. 3 seconds.
- Shift down to 1st gear and leave in 1st gear for 3 seconds.
Repeat this procedure twice.
- Apply foot brake.
- Wait for drive shafts to come to a stop.
- Move selector lever to 'R' position after approx. 2 seconds.
- Release foot brake.
- Accelerate gently (slowly increase engine speed to 2500 rpm and hold).
- Wait 10 seconds (for venting).
- Apply foot brake.
- Move selector lever to "P" position.
- Release foot brake.
- Wait 15 seconds (for venting oil cooler).
- Apply foot brake.
- Wait for drive shafts to come to a stop.
- Move selector lever to 'N' position after approx. 2 seconds.
Important!
Do not switch off engine.

Check transmission fluid level (only while engine is running).
- Connect diagnosis system and check transmission fluid temperature.
Transmission fluid temperature must be between 30 ° C and 50 ° C.
- Allow excess fluid to drain down to bottom edge of correction bore.
- Insert screw plug.
Important!
If a minimum of 0.3 litres of fluid fails to emerge from the correction bore, the transmission is insufficiently filled.

Hope that helps!

 

Well that is just ridiculous then, my dealer isnt very customer oriented either, perhaps there changing the filter too?

 

Hard to say - you'll just have to ask. From the dealer, the filter kit itself (filter, gasket, o-rings, new magnet) will be over $100. The Esso fluid might be about $100 too (not completely sure what they're charging for it these days). Labor is probably more than $200 for the filter since parts of the subframe have to be lowered.

I think they're just overcharging you for a regular fluid change. See if you can get them to tell you the cost of materials and cost of labor separately. Maybe try calling another dealer too, even if they're not close, and get a price quote - you might be able to talk your dealer down. It really shouldn't be more than an hour labor for them for just a fluid change.

 

Yeah thats a good idea, I would image the filter wouldnt need to be change anyway but I dont think it could hurt?

 

When I changed my filter, I noticed very few metal shavings, so you're probably right, but same as you, I figured with 121k miles, it wouldn't hurt to change it just in case and get every last mile I can out the transmission.

 

Thanks guys, I called the other dealer in hartford they said 170$ Then I called mini of stamford and they changed it to 295$ I must say I really dont care for Mini of fairfield county.

 

Unfortunately, many MINI service departments leave much to be desired for MINIs that are out of warranty. My dealer said I needed to replace the oil pan gasket when in fact it was my power steering that was leaking! The oil pan gasket still hasn't had a leak. They lost my trust.

You could try to find an independent mechanic to do it - it really isn't hard and doesn't require special tools if you fill from the top plug.

If you were closer to me, I'd help you with the fluid change...

 

I just had my fluid changed this week @ 98,600 miles as part of my Inpsection 1 service. My bill shows a unit cost for the CVT fluid @ $ 69.12.

Total labor for the Inpsection 1 service was $276.24

 

I am taking my MINI to the BMW dealer in Fort Wayne, IN. They don't have the special tool or the CVT fluid (since MINI buys it by the barrel). However, they can do the labor for it if I provide the tool and fluid. SO, I will be buying the 70 dollar tool from MINIMania.com and the Redline Non slip CVT fluid from Redline's website. So with the tool, labor and fluid it'll cost me around 320 dollars. And for every time after that around 250 dollars. I can handle that to keep my baby running. Thankfully I can take it there instead of driving all the way down to Indianapolis from Fort Wayne.

 

Wow I payed 350$ and that was without that part!

 

I am luck enough to have a BMW dealer that is willing to work on my MINI. Fortunately they access to the manual instructions and technicians that are capable and willing to work with me so I don't have to drive 150 miles for servicing and I get to keep the special BMW tool for filling my CVT!

 

I think that is a little steep. I just had mine changed last week at the MINI dealer as part of the Inspection 1 service. The fluid itemizes out at like $69 dollars. The entire service was mid $400.

I realize you don't have a local MINI dealer but maybe you can negotiate the BMW dealer down a bit.

 

The labor for the BMW dealer in Fort Wayne costs 165 dollars, the fluid is around 85 shipped to me and the tool is 70ish. So around 320, however, at the MINI dealer in Indianapolis it will cost me 416 and the cost to drive down there. I will take the 320 dollar cost I just want to get the work done by a competent individual at least some what associated with MINI brand...