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Oh yeah, and it's running strong. I just bough it less than a month ago and I've personally put ~2000 on it.
Had it in the shop for a once over and only had the control arm bushings and Axel replaced (because of the CV boot, may as well just do the whole axel) and that's it! It's got a new clutch, so that's good.
Just planning some other "upgrades" that will be mostly preventative such as Strut Tower Reinforcements and the upgraded bypass valve and a new CAI as the current one that was added has seen better days.
with that mileage you might have deformation , so before you install, you will have to hammer down flat the towers. What CAI , M7 , K&N ?
I've already bought the Craven Speed ones, putting them on next week. It has surprisingly very little deformation, I did a test fit with the reinforcements and they fit right on there. I'm just going to snug the bolts up every now and then until they are flat.
I've already bought the Craven Speed ones, putting them on next week. It has surprisingly very little deformation, I did a test fit with the reinforcements and they fit right on there. I'm just going to snug the bolts up every now and then until they are flat.
I'm getting the GTT CAI.
Be careful with that. Somehow I misread the torque specs on the stock strut studs to 50 ft. lb. They are supposed to be 25 ft. lb. They snap somewhere around 40 ft. lb. Learn from my mistake. It is no fun trying to hold a bolt from under the strut plate and tighten the nut at the same time! (I went with the under tower indurators that go between the strut plate and the mount.)
Be careful with that. Somehow I misread the torque specs on the stock strut studs to 50 ft. lb. They are supposed to be 25 ft. lb. They snap somewhere around 40 ft. lb. Learn from my mistake. It is no fun trying to hold a bolt from under the strut plate and tighten the nut at the same time! (I went with the under tower indurators that go between the strut plate and the mount.)
Oh yeah, I saw that the torque was 25ftlb so I got that. I'm not gonna torque over that, but just make sure they stay snug.
However, I know all about the snapped bolts. I just had my front strut mounts replaced and when I get home to put on the tower defenders one of the bolts is snapped off! No top of the bolt, no nut nothing. So that's why the tower defenders are on hold.
I was going to get both the underside ones and the top mount ones, but after talking to the guy a Way Motor Works, he said the underside ones are kinda pointless. He said just stick with the top ones, they do the same thing, are easier to install, and don't raise your ride height.
I've already bought the Craven Speed ones, putting them on next week. It has surprisingly very little deformation, I did a test fit with the reinforcements and they fit right on there. I'm just going to snug the bolts up every now and then until they are flat.
I'm getting the GTT CAI.
This worked for me. I torqued them to 27-28lbs and would re-torque them after a long drive, or a few short drives until they stayed torqued. It took a couple of months, but I only drive it about 300 miles/month.
This worked for me. I torqued them to 27-28lbs and would re-torque them after a long drive, or a few short drives until they stayed torqued. It took a couple of months, but I only drive it about 300 miles/month.
Cool, good to know that just the top mount ones fixed them as well. I'll probably torque them to the 25 to be safe and see if that moved them at all before tightening them more to make them.
This is how the plates sat without bolts. The initial install doesn't really pull the towers into place too much. They just seem to gradually settle into place when driving, and the nuts barely move when re-torquing. My plates sit nice and flush now, but I still check the torque periodically as part of my oil change interval. They haven't move at all lately, so I think everything has settled into place.
I would have kept re-torquing them even if I pounded them down first. You might go too far and the same would happen with the nuts losing torque over time.
50055, besides battery, thermostat housing and driver's side power window module all is still original.
This year, I am thinking of replacing the tires due to age…. I think they are 2007 date coded but have very low miles on them and still look new, no cracking.
50055, besides battery, all is still original. Yes, she is pampered.
I did Madness under Tower plates with Tower brace on top. Replaced studs with longer and higher torque to hold sandwich of three metal layers together. Put TSW "X" brace underneath. Whole package is solid with no cowl shake on R52. Also, no Tower bulge.
135,500 with the following items replaced due to failure. Arm rest sliding cover (warranty). Driver side ceiling switch to map lamp (warranty). O2 Sensor at 99,960 (covered under warranty). Right motor mount. Center brake light assembly. Right side bright light bulb.
Spark plugs and serpentine belt at 100,000 miles. Front brakes and rotors at 85,000 and rear brakes and rotors at 115,000.
Fourth set of tires all OEM. Still on the original clutch and hoses.
135,500 with the following items replaced due to failure. Arm rest sliding cover (warranty). Driver side ceiling switch to map lamp (warranty). O2 Sensor at 99,960 (covered under warranty). Right motor mount. Center brake light assembly. Right side bright light bulb.
Spark plugs and serpentine belt at 100,000 miles. Front brakes and rotors at 85,000 and rear brakes and rotors at 115,000.
Fourth set of tires all OEM. Still on the original clutch and hoses.
Very cool! Thanks for the repair info and mileage markers!
You havent replaced the crank pulley yet? Mine went at 44.5k miles (same day Michael Jackson passed away) and then again at 89k miles.
Agreed, the ATI Super Damper is a great alternative/upgrade to the existing crank pulley. I wonder what has an impact on the stock pulley and when it dies...
It is no fun trying to hold a bolt from under the strut plate and tighten the nut at the same time! (I went with the under tower indurators that go between the strut plate and the mount.)
