I need sum halp, cuz I'm a n00b... okay I'm not that bad, but I do need some advice. Short story, I NEED TO CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER ASAP,what I would like to know is what does everyone recommend for the oil and filter they put into their 1st Gen's? I understand that everyone has a different opinion, which is why I would like everyone to answer these questions: what oil filter do you use, and why do you use that specific one? Same with just oil; what oil do you use, and why do you use it?

Also, for reasons that I have explained in my 1st Gear thread, which is here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-carolina.html, I would like to clear out the oil system. I have heard of the Kerosene method, which goes like this if you've never heard of it: Drain oil, replace with exact amount of Kerosene (same amount as the oil system will hold), idle engine for about one-to-two minutes, then drain, let rest evaporate out of the system for a while, then replace with new oil. Now I have heard that it cleans out the system very well, and even dissolves sludge at a good rate, however my dad thinks that he has heard of some bad things happening when someone did that. So my next question to you is this: Have you guys ever done anything like this, and if so, are there other, safer options for cleaning out the system?

Onto the next one. I will be needing to take the front bumper off to put a screw back into the driver's side fog light. It's the lower screw, so getting to it is a pain, and removing the wheel well doesn't seem like it would help much, if at all. Anyways, I checked the coolant today and discovered that it's pretty weak, maybe strong enough to handle temps down to 0 Fahrenheit? So while I have the bumper off, I figured, why not go ahead and drain the cooling system while I'm at it; you know, two birds, one stone type thing? And then it hit me, since I almost have the entire front end off, why not just go ahead and check the supercharger over? Heck, while it's exposed, go ahead and check the bearings and seals (if needed), change the oil in the SC, and maybe stick on a smaller pulley while I'm at it! So wait, that's... 2... 3... 4... 7 BIRDS WITH ONE STONE! True it will take me a while, but I have a place to store it and work on it, so it would seem like a no brainer. But what do you guys think? Too much work to be done at once? I would like to get it all finished in one day, but that might be pushing it...

Those are the only questions I have at the moment, so thank you to anyone who can halp :]

MrNintend0

By the way, my math is not wrong, I was counting checking the bearings and seals as two separate things.

 

1. Do Not put Kerosene in your motor !

2. Refer to the "SEARCH" option on this site for oil and filter changes, and removal of the front Bumper.

 

If your friends won't loose complete respect for you, try reading the directions. The owner's manual should tell you what you need to know about oil type.

Save you a little looking with this:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...th-pics-4.html

And, add this to your favorites:
http://soopercooperinfo.com/
It is a vast repository of links to all things MINI and Mini and it continues to grow.

BTW, a few hearty souls will forever change their own oil but there are too many ways to mess things up with these cars and the way the filters are housed. I get an oil change and full check up when needed in the neighborhood of $60 to $80 at an independent shop. 'Drather that than crossthread the can.

 

If you are going to do this yourself, here is an oil change kit with oil, filter and gasket. They are good with advice if you have questions too.

Detroit Tuned Oil Change Kit

I hope you enjoy your R53 as much as I do mine!

Motor On!
Chris

 

Do the oil change first, inspecting the oil filter and condition of oil BEFORE dumping anything into your crank case ! If you have no sludge on / in your filter good chance you don't have an issue.

And Kerosene is not the answer. I have read some threads on guys using other additives such as seafoam, but you do so at your own risk. And because that stuff thins the oil, you can't run the engine on that stuff for too long either. Read the cans directions.

As far as your air filter goes being an indication of maintenance. Some owners just forget about air filters more so than oil changes. I wouldn't get all worked up into a frenzy just yet.....And if you think the air filter was bad, check your cabin air filter Probably looks like a 7th grade science project.

 

Good advise from all.

 

I agree, thanks to all of you. I wasn't going to put Kerosene in it unless absolutely necessary and if, and only IF, it had no harmful side effects.

I guess I'll do more research, thanks for that soopercooper link by the way. Also, thanks gRay rAvEn, I'll be sure to check the cabin filter today. You're right about people forgetting to check the air filter. But what gets me, is that the previous owners took it to Jiffy Lube to get the oil changed. The worst part is that I still have the receipt from that visit and it says that Jiffy Lube replaced the air filter at the same time as the oil. So if the filter wasn't replaced, I hate to see what condition the oil is in...

By the way, does anyone know if they make any shorter torque wrenches, such as maybe a foot long, and could torque stuff down to say 10 or 15 ft/lbs?

 

If you want to clean the sludge out of your engine run Rotella T6 for 5,000 miles. It is a full syn oil with great cleaning properties. Much safer than other products.

 

On one of those head up me **** days, I bought a Craftsman torque wrench, threw away all the packaging so I'd be sure and not be able to return it, then discovered it was for inch/pounds. It's about a foot long and goes up to 250"/#. If I calculate that correctly it should be a little more than 20'/# and never been used. If you are interested, PM me an offer and we can make necessary arrangements.

 

Never heard of the "Kerosene" method. I'm not a mechanic, but it sounds rather strange/unwise to me. There are products on the market like the ones mentioned above, to do this job safely that have been made for that specific purpose.

The idea of using Kerosene as your engine's lubricant seems as illogical as removing all of your blood, and using ketchup instead.

 

I bet with an very old motor, with big clearances, running a bit of thinner oil (like kero) is the same as buying the engine cleaner from wallyworld....you pour it in...run for 2 min, then drain....the engine runs HOT....lack of lube...but it does remove some gunk ...but if destroy the motor...what have you gained....a clean hunk of junk, rather than a dirty running motor....running 100% fuel oil...boom!!
Another old school tecnique is to us a quart of tranny oil....
imo just do 2 or 3 fast oil changes....maybe a bit of seafoam or something....the chances of destroying a bearing by using an agressive internal cleaner to get nearly 0 benifits is dubious at best....
do a search....

Use oem filter, and a good syenthic oil.....and change/check frequently...most seem yo change 2x more than the computer says.

 

Ps just to make sure folks understand....with most internal methods, you Add about a quart of cleaner to the oil....run, then drain....running 100% cleaner...no lube is like running without oil or maybe worse!!! Using FUEL OIL AS LUBE IS CRAZY....using a LITTLE BIT TO THIN A THICKER OIL TO AID DRAINING is old school...but just a bit...100% is crazy!!

 

I would think that you could easily calculate the ratio between inches and feet. Twelve to one, as I recall.

 

I tried but all I came up with was a little more than 20.8. (Hope this site has a thick enough skin it can stand a little elbow in the ribs nudge nudge wink wink.)

 

Thanks all, I'll be ordering some OEM filters, and I'll probably stick with Mobil 1 unless someone changes my mind. And thanks thulchatt, I'll look into Rotella T6. Seafoam I have used before, but I used it in the intake instead, guess I'll do some research and see if it would be worth it or not.

Thanks, but I was looking for something in ft/lbs. I understand it's easy math, but I' really looking for a good quality torque wrench that can go down to around 10 ft/lbs. The size was just more of a "would like to have" type thing, instead of using the two-foot-long wrenches.

 

Depending on your location, O'Reilly Auto Parts puts Mobil 1 on sale every now and then at $ 4.99 a quart. Watch for the sales flyers or sign up on line to get email notices. . . . . . . . .

This is when I stock up instead of paying the $7.99 or $8.99 a quart.

Keep Motoring !

 

I only use and recommend the OEM MINI oil filters, I've seen too many problems from aftermarket filters like orings that leak, filters that are too tall or short and so on.

As for doing several things at once, thats a good idea it will save you time and money.

 

You're likely not old enough. It was a common enough method back in the days before detergent motor oils. But even back then, I'm sure it didn't do the engine much good. If I had a ratty 1948 Buick or something that wasn't worth anything, I might try it. Otherwise, no. Modern oils mean you don't have to do this kind of thing.

I would NOT put anything in your engine other than a quality oil. (And use Mini oil filters.) ANYTHING else and you're playing with fire. And in my humble opinion, Seafoam and other additives are just snake oil and often cause problems and generally don't solve or cure anything. (Regardless of anectodal information to the contrary.)

Just use a quality motor oil. Most oils nowadays are detergent types and will clean out or keep clean anything that does get in there. It's unlikely that there's any crud in your engine. And if there is some buildup here and there, you really don't want to be putting anything in there that's going to disolve it or break it up in any way as all that's going to do is create the potential of clogging up an oil line or something.

 

How fast should the oil changes be, for-granted I need to do that. Every 1000 miles? 500?

The "kerosene method" was what I had heard of, but did not use, nor even see it being used before, that's just what I heard and was curious if that would work. It probably will, but like everyone else has said, it would probably dissolve all of the oil in the system, causing problems after maybe 20 seconds of running it in there, and damaging the rest of the engine. You'll have a clean engine, but the engine will probably need a rebuild within the next few miles or so. The safest method is doing some fast oil changes to help rid of the contaminants that are left over in the system when you change the oil. Granted, the filter does catch them, but it can also let some by, especially if the filter and oil is saturated with contaminants.

I believe that wraps it up. I've already ordered 5 OEM filters (yup, I'm set), and a 36mm socket. Hopefully they will be here by the weekend so I can go and change the oil... I got a bad feeling it's not going to be pretty considering the air filter and the cabin filter... I am very glad I rescued this MCS from the previous owners...

 

Therein lies a tale....

 

Keep the inch lb torque wrench.
There are alot of torqued bolts on MINI that go by inch lb.
Just a suggestion.
Purchase the Bentley Service Manual.
It will show how to take apart the MINI and put it back together again.
I call it the MINI bible.
It's got lots of dirty pictures in it.

 

Already ordered... in fact... it should be here today

Yep, but I'm getting her back to her former glory!

 

Oil change is about every 5,000 miles. But synthetic can generally last until 7,000. I like things running cleaner so I stick with 5,000.

Here is a very important filter you are over looking, the fuel filter. Search for the DIY on here and you will be all set. The owner's manual does not say to change the fuel filter, but that is BS, mine was completely black when I replaced it.