R50/53 ECU reset question
ECU reset question
i've had my mcs for about a month and a half now, got it from a private owner and wanted to reset the ecu to adjust to my drving style. i have done some research prior to doing this and followed the instructions in the ultimate R53 guide thread that was posted on here
How do I reset the ECU?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ni-viagra.html
1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button with one hand, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first click) with the other hand.
2. The screen will have a number and the word “tESt”.
3. Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19 and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1,2,10,19)
4. The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again. You are now in the system.
5. Scroll through to 21. tESt and wait a moment. 21.0 rESEt will come up. Press the button once.
6. Your gauges will now make some sounds and movements. Once the lights come back on start your car. You have now reset your ECU and your MINI is now ready to relearn the new mods and your driving style.
and i did all the steps after getting to step 5. i didnt see the 21.0 reset but it after i pressed the reset button again, all my gauges did make sounds and movements for a little bit and i started the car as said up there. did that actually reset the ECU, or did i miss the step and it did nothing? didnt get to drive around yet to see if there is any difference yet. thanks so much for any input
How do I reset the ECU?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ni-viagra.html
1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button with one hand, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first click) with the other hand.
2. The screen will have a number and the word “tESt”.
3. Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19 and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1,2,10,19)
4. The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again. You are now in the system.
5. Scroll through to 21. tESt and wait a moment. 21.0 rESEt will come up. Press the button once.
6. Your gauges will now make some sounds and movements. Once the lights come back on start your car. You have now reset your ECU and your MINI is now ready to relearn the new mods and your driving style.
and i did all the steps after getting to step 5. i didnt see the 21.0 reset but it after i pressed the reset button again, all my gauges did make sounds and movements for a little bit and i started the car as said up there. did that actually reset the ECU, or did i miss the step and it did nothing? didnt get to drive around yet to see if there is any difference yet. thanks so much for any input
Many arguments on what this procedure does....many say it is a cluster reset, resetting the guages, but not the adaptations....if done right it certainly will not hurt, so the effort imo is worth it. You could disconnect the battery for a bit also....
Or just drive it...2 tanks of gas should be all it will take to readjust without the reset if I remember right.
Or just drive it...2 tanks of gas should be all it will take to readjust without the reset if I remember right.
yea i did read that some say it does nothing but some notice the difference, i will get to drive around in a little bit, cant wait to, and i might be able to tell. either way thanks, i just wanted to see if i did it the right way to get the gauges to flash and all that. thanks
There is no way to reset the DME (Engine ECU) in the vehicle. It must be done on the dealer diagnostic tester. The hard Kombi reset on function 21 will reset your instruments and recalibrate your gauges but is strictly for the instrument cluster. Also doing a hard battery reset by shorter the negative and positive battery cables together will not reset DME adaptions. It only clears module active memory. It will not clear check engine lights or any diagnostic troubles codes.
ahh i see, so the only way to reset the adaptations is to do it on a tester at a dealer, yea i was confused on the fact that some have seen an improvement as far as better acceleration and learning the way you drive, but thats good to know, any range on pricing as far as how much they would be? not sure if its worth it to go and pay since it can get expensive
gotcha, yea i just got the car about month and a half ago as i mentioned, and it does drive smoothly indeed, and im a noob when it comes to these things, but always good to know the reason to do it if necessary, if anyone else have any input as seeing the difference i would be glad to hear it as well like you said.
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Yeah, I think the large majority will not see much of an improvement if any when resetting the instrument cluster.
Im Canadian and I believe my dealer charges an hour for the adaptions reset. You also get a standard scope that will tell you if there are any diagnostic trouble codes and in that hour you could get some basic checks and diag for common problems (if there are any codes). The dealer could tell you its worth it to do the reset twice a year when the summer/winter fuel changes over but thats up to you. If your car actually does not run as smoothly or efficiantly as before it COULD be a real problem like a small intake leak, dirty throttle, etc...
There seems to be a myth that if your car runs poorly the first thing you do is reset control modules which is 99% NOT the case. Gauges that are slightly out of calibration can be reset but that is really about it.
Fuel adaptions should always be within + or - 1.5%... if they are out by + or - 5% or more you have a REAL problem. Most cars will show 0% or something like +0.1 or +0.2
Im Canadian and I believe my dealer charges an hour for the adaptions reset. You also get a standard scope that will tell you if there are any diagnostic trouble codes and in that hour you could get some basic checks and diag for common problems (if there are any codes). The dealer could tell you its worth it to do the reset twice a year when the summer/winter fuel changes over but thats up to you. If your car actually does not run as smoothly or efficiantly as before it COULD be a real problem like a small intake leak, dirty throttle, etc...
There seems to be a myth that if your car runs poorly the first thing you do is reset control modules which is 99% NOT the case. Gauges that are slightly out of calibration can be reset but that is really about it.
Fuel adaptions should always be within + or - 1.5%... if they are out by + or - 5% or more you have a REAL problem. Most cars will show 0% or something like +0.1 or +0.2
What a great post. One of the first things I read here was how some people were resetting the ECU and seeing such an improvement. Sure no mechanical person here but I definately had my doubts. I'm glad to read your information.
Thanks very much
so i went to the shop today and found out that reseting the ecu at the dealer, wont change much as far as responsivness goes or re learning the way you drive. too much mix up going on. but just thought i would share, thanks again
yea i did read that some say it does nothing but some notice the difference, i will get to drive around in a little bit, cant wait to, and i might be able to tell. either way thanks, i just wanted to see if i did it the right way to get the gauges to flash and all that. thanks
his really proves that my roomate cant drive. lol
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