R50/53 Simply deplorable!!
Do the things suggested in your other thread. Do a compression check and leak down test. If all is good there, it's possible condensation accumulated in there if the car sat for a long period of time or the engine was not brought up to operating temperature and maintained there for a sufficient amount of time to burn off the condensation. This happened to a friend of mine with a car that sat at the body shop for 6 months just getting started to move it around. After 3 oil changes he finally got rid of the milky oil.
+1 K5Cruiser
That nasty yellow stuff under the cap and the brown sludge on the filter is an emulsion. Caused when sufficient water is mixed with oil and heated up. Kinda like the way you make mayonnaise.
The reason Lippy saw it in his GTi in the winter was because of condensation. Damp air in the block/oil pan cooled and the moisture condensed out of it onto the metal surfaces. Usually a good, brisk drive cooked the moisture out of the system.
In rynegold's case, waaay to much moisture to be cooked out of the system.
Gotta be coming from the cooling system.
Must do: compression test, leakdown test, test for oil in coolant.
That nasty yellow stuff under the cap and the brown sludge on the filter is an emulsion. Caused when sufficient water is mixed with oil and heated up. Kinda like the way you make mayonnaise.
The reason Lippy saw it in his GTi in the winter was because of condensation. Damp air in the block/oil pan cooled and the moisture condensed out of it onto the metal surfaces. Usually a good, brisk drive cooked the moisture out of the system.
In rynegold's case, waaay to much moisture to be cooked out of the system.
Gotta be coming from the cooling system.
Must do: compression test, leakdown test, test for oil in coolant.
Not to be harsh here, but shouldn't you have checked the cap and dipstick before buying the car?
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Before you worry to much, drive it around a bit. Make sure it gets good and hot and see if it boils any residual water out of the system. Don't push it right away (let it warm gradually) in case there is a problem.
IF it is a big coolant leak, the damage is already done so you're unlikely make a repair more expensive.
What's more likely (and it's already been mentioned) is that you got condensation in the system because it's been sitting around for a while. Happens with my motorcycle when it sits, and although I prefer to change the oil right away, if you run it for a while and let the system get nice and hot it clears it out pretty quickly.
So go ahead and drive it around for a few days. If it's a coolant leak you'll start to see the issue again pretty quickly. If it's was just condensation then it shouldn't return and you're ok.
IF it is a big coolant leak, the damage is already done so you're unlikely make a repair more expensive.
What's more likely (and it's already been mentioned) is that you got condensation in the system because it's been sitting around for a while. Happens with my motorcycle when it sits, and although I prefer to change the oil right away, if you run it for a while and let the system get nice and hot it clears it out pretty quickly.
So go ahead and drive it around for a few days. If it's a coolant leak you'll start to see the issue again pretty quickly. If it's was just condensation then it shouldn't return and you're ok.
Looks like the filter was not the correct filter for the MCS. The correct filter has a plastic cage inside the filter to provide support to the paper element so that it does not collapse. The filter does not look like the Mini or Mann filters that I have used in my MCS.
Does this car have an oil catch can?
If so, it is probably installed incorrectly.
See these posts for possible solution............
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hlight=mustard
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hlight=mustard
If so, it is probably installed incorrectly.
See these posts for possible solution............
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hlight=mustard
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hlight=mustard
Oil Problem
If you are mechanically saavy, I'd go ahead and begin the process of tearing into the MINI provided you have the Bentley Manual. Having the manual will ensure you have all your ducks lined up during the tear-down process. I think a leak-down test isn't necessary, you have already identified that you do have water getting into the engine.
I would take photos along the way to document what you did and what you find. Hopefully it is something as simple as a blown head gasket. While the head is off, take it to a machine shop that can check the head surface to guarantee it is not warped; mill head as necessary.
Inspect the cylinder walls carefully to ensure there is no abnormal wear (i.e. galling or cracks in the cylinder). I would also think about possibly pulling the oil pan off to see if any metal is stuck to any residual goo coating the oil pan interior while the head is being looked at. I would also clean as much goo out of the engine as possible.
Once you get the head back, clean it well and remove any carbon buildup and reinstall it using a NEW head gasket and torque according to the Bentley Manual. I would pick a head bolt torque that is half of maximum and torque all bolts, and then repeat retorque the head bolts adding an additional 10-15 ft/lbs each time until maximum torque is achieved. This insures a more even seating of the head (I owned several MGs previously and I never had any coolant/oil leakage by doing this...which is an accomplishment if you know anything about MGs).
Do an engine flush and change the oil and filter again (I recommend just using Castrol Syntec because you will want to do another flush and oil change in about 1000 miles to ensure all of the goo is cleaned out of the engines oil passages. Once you've done this, replace the filter and put in the oil of choice (i.e. Royal Purple, Mobil 1, AmsOil, etc.).
I would then go and have the cooling system flushed and coolant replaced.
I'm not saying I am right and everyone else is wrong, but this is what I have done in the past and what I would do if this were my MINI.
Good luck and please keep us posted on how things go. Please feel free to send me photos if you decide to start doing the work your self; I will be more than happy to offer my viewpoint on what you find.
Cheers-
I would take photos along the way to document what you did and what you find. Hopefully it is something as simple as a blown head gasket. While the head is off, take it to a machine shop that can check the head surface to guarantee it is not warped; mill head as necessary.
Inspect the cylinder walls carefully to ensure there is no abnormal wear (i.e. galling or cracks in the cylinder). I would also think about possibly pulling the oil pan off to see if any metal is stuck to any residual goo coating the oil pan interior while the head is being looked at. I would also clean as much goo out of the engine as possible.
Once you get the head back, clean it well and remove any carbon buildup and reinstall it using a NEW head gasket and torque according to the Bentley Manual. I would pick a head bolt torque that is half of maximum and torque all bolts, and then repeat retorque the head bolts adding an additional 10-15 ft/lbs each time until maximum torque is achieved. This insures a more even seating of the head (I owned several MGs previously and I never had any coolant/oil leakage by doing this...which is an accomplishment if you know anything about MGs).
Do an engine flush and change the oil and filter again (I recommend just using Castrol Syntec because you will want to do another flush and oil change in about 1000 miles to ensure all of the goo is cleaned out of the engines oil passages. Once you've done this, replace the filter and put in the oil of choice (i.e. Royal Purple, Mobil 1, AmsOil, etc.).
I would then go and have the cooling system flushed and coolant replaced.
I'm not saying I am right and everyone else is wrong, but this is what I have done in the past and what I would do if this were my MINI.
Good luck and please keep us posted on how things go. Please feel free to send me photos if you decide to start doing the work your self; I will be more than happy to offer my viewpoint on what you find.
Cheers-
Last edited by lawmann; Aug 7, 2008 at 08:57 AM.
I wouldn't jump the gun on it being a coolant leak just yet. You said the car had sat unused for 2 months. If it was only used for very short trips especially in cold weather that could cause the sludge you are seeing. What did the oil look like that you drained? Like oil or like what is on the underside of the car?
The first thing I would do is find a mechanic that can pressure test the cooling system. If it holds pressure you have no coolant leak. Then you can assume with certainty that it's sludge & then deal with that issue. If it won't hold pressure then you will need to narrow down where the leak is. Most likely a head gasket. I hope it's just sludge.
EDIT*** My wifes Audi A4 1.T sludged up & it looked just like what you are seeing. We were lucky it was a lease car that was under warranty. Free Audi maintenance of oil changes every 10,000 miles using dino oil in a turbo motor.
The first thing I would do is find a mechanic that can pressure test the cooling system. If it holds pressure you have no coolant leak. Then you can assume with certainty that it's sludge & then deal with that issue. If it won't hold pressure then you will need to narrow down where the leak is. Most likely a head gasket. I hope it's just sludge.
EDIT*** My wifes Audi A4 1.T sludged up & it looked just like what you are seeing. We were lucky it was a lease car that was under warranty. Free Audi maintenance of oil changes every 10,000 miles using dino oil in a turbo motor.
Last edited by Crashton; Aug 7, 2008 at 11:49 AM.
An 8 mile drive would bring the engine to operating temperature, condensation is usually a winter/cold weather issue combined with short drives.
But I would be concerned about the amount of goo/sludge in the oil filter; that is not normal under any circumstance. I would open it up to inspect it and clean out the head and bottom end along with inspecting the cylinders.
One thing that could give valuable info is to pull all of the plugs (mark what cylinder they come out of) to see if there is any difference in their appearance. That could possibly tell you what cylinder(s) is/are affected, if they are affected.
Rynegold,
Do what you feel comfortable with. Pulling plugs is not invasive and quick (do not over torque on the reinstallation it they are OK) and may tell you a lot; start there.
Keeping our fingers crossed for you.
lawnmann you are correct, that filter is a mess.
I'm wondering how long that filter had been in that MINI.
While it is warm out now & has been for a good while. That sludge could have been done last winter.
I still think a cooling system pressure test is in order. They can also test the coolant & check for hydrocarbons.
MINI's have a common issue with leaking thermostat housings. If the OP is lucky that may be where his coolant is going.
Pulling & reading the plugs may show if it's a head gasket. A good idea.
If that was my car I'd drop the oil pan clean it out & especially the oil pick up screen. It may be pretty plugged up.
I suggest a long highway flog to get the MINI good & hot. That will help get any residual moisture out of there. If it's not an internal leak.
I'm wondering how long that filter had been in that MINI.
While it is warm out now & has been for a good while. That sludge could have been done last winter.
I still think a cooling system pressure test is in order. They can also test the coolant & check for hydrocarbons.
MINI's have a common issue with leaking thermostat housings. If the OP is lucky that may be where his coolant is going.
Pulling & reading the plugs may show if it's a head gasket. A good idea.
If that was my car I'd drop the oil pan clean it out & especially the oil pick up screen. It may be pretty plugged up.
I suggest a long highway flog to get the MINI good & hot. That will help get any residual moisture out of there. If it's not an internal leak.
You are correct Crashton, a pressure test will tell you if there is a leak into the engine, but based upon my personal experience, I would already say that is a fact based upon the photos.
I personnally wouldn't take the MINI out for any long highway flogs until the 1) source of moisture has been determined for certain via leak-down test or dissassembly, 2) the oil pan has been dropped and cleaned along with cleaning the oil pump pick-up screen as you suggested, and 3) the motor has had both an engine oil flush (at least twice) and the coolant system flushed as well.
I think it is best to err on the side of caution because making assumptions that this is a condensation issue could cost rynegold an engine. The less the MINI is driven the better until the cause is identified.
I think pulling the plugs would be a good start. If rynegold has a OBD II code reader, I would download/read the codes to see if there were any codes thrown due to collant being introduced into the cylinders and hindering the combustion.
It is easy for me to just jump in and do maintenance on my own MINI, but when it comes to someone else's baby I think it is best to expect the worst and invoke the highest degree of caution as to not exacerbate the problem. If it is something insignificant then no harm-no foul.
I suggest a long highway flog to get the MINI good & hot. That will help get any residual moisture out of there. If it's not an internal leak.
Sorry if I'm confusing people with my attemts to help.
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