i've got $350-$400 to spend, what're some of the options out there for speakers? any recommendations? i've got the stock stereo setup. i like clarity with sharp bass. doesn't have to be loud but rather crisp.

thanks,
nirmit

 

polk db

 

Try ADS components. 5.25 or 6.5's if 6X9 Pioneers or MB Quarts.

 

infinity, MBquart, Pioneer REV series speakers, Don't expect a lot of bass from the speakers in the factor location- the 6.5 and 6X9 if you want them to last a long time.

Here's an Idea get a bazooka tube, and a pair of inexpensive interior speakers,
like kenwoods, or 2 way pionners for the front. That should sound clean.

 

Alpine SPX 137r (5.25) or SPX 177-r (6.5)
Internet pricing between $200 -- $279...they list much higher.

 

All good suggestions above.

However, if you're really into SQL, give Focal a looksee.

I have been using Focals for 6 years now, and I'm still amazed at their clarity.

FWIW...
You're not going to get alot of bass unless you install a sub. That said, there is a shortcut. Find a pair of very sensative 6x9 separates that will do at least 92db @ 1 watt. Install them in the rear factory openings without the tweets and with a 100 or 125hz lowpass filter. Now your 6x9s are effectively subs... they won't be loud because the factory radio can't push them, but they will balance well with the front speakers, and extend your frequency response down much lower than before. Use your fader to fine-tune the balance.

Later if you decide to replace the headunit and add amps, you can take the filters off, put the tweets on, and run them as mains without a lot of effort.

 

I had been thinking about doing that very thing, and you've just pushed me over the edge. I just ordered a pair of JBL 6x9s, which have a 94dB sensitivity rating. Now I'm trying to figure out how to implement the lowpass filter. What's the cheapest/easiest way to acheive that? Does anyone sell a filter that can be plugged in-line, downstream of the amp? Something like this, but designed for speaker-level signals?

Is there any trick to removing the tweeters from a 2-way car speaker? Can I just snip the leads going to the tweeter, or do they have to be "bypassed" in some fashion?

-Dave

 

Dave - build your lowpass filter/crossover yerself. Have a look at this link:
http://www.bcae1.com/passxovr.htm

Once you calculate the values of your components, visit: www.partsexpress.com Quality caps, resisters, inductors, designed specifically for audio quality... cheap too.

Building your own passive crossovers with with decent quality parts ALWAYS sounds much better than store-bought.

If you do this, then you won't even have to clip the leads to your tweets. The filter will only pass frequencies below your designed cutoff, so the tweets won't have any signal to play.

If your JBLs end up being a too weak to keep up with your front mains, you could even add in a small cheep amp with a line-leveler to drive the rears. I did this and ran it for nearly two years before I finally decided to get a headunit and amps... I wanted a DVD player that would do MP3 so would only have to carry around 3 DVD with my entire music collection

If you get stumped, give a hollar.

 

Just to let know that both my Kicker 61/2 for the front and MBQuart 6x9 for the rears came out to a little over $400 with tax.

 

Thanks for the info. I was thinking that I would check out one of those "Build your own loudspeaker" places, but you beat me to it.

I actually have a cheapish amp gathering dust in my garage. One of those Blaupunkt digital "T-class" amps that I found on clearance way back when. I put two into my wife's car, and they sound good. Since I'm in the process of deleting my back seat, I certainly have plenty of room to mount the amp. Hmmm.... You're tempting me again! What's this line leveler of which you speak? Is that the thing that allows you to drive the amp from speaker-level inputs? (I think the Blaupunkt may be able to do that right out of the box. Yep, see page 6 of the manual.)

If I use the amp, I won't have to build any crossovers, and I'll have power to burn. On the other hand, I'll have to run a few more wires. Would you recommend that I cut the existing (rear) speaker wires at the head unit, and run my own wires from the head unit, back to the amp? (Rather than trying to "extend" the existing rear speaker wires so that they can feed into the amp?)

I don't suppose the stock (2003) head unit has a "turn on" wire that I can use to trigger the amp to turn itself on, or does it? If it doesn't, how do I switch the rear amp?

One final question, and I apologize for having so many: Ideally with this setup, I'd like to limit the bass going to the front speakers, which would allow them to play a little louder even when driven by the teeny head unit amp. Would it work acceptably well if I used the head unit's "Bass" control to turn the overall bass down to 30% or so, and then use the amp's crossover and level controls to still get loud(ish) bass out of the back speakers? It's a bit ghetto to be attenuating and then boosting in the same signal chain, but that might be the only way to "move" the bass into the rear speakers.

Thanks for giving me all these ideas.

 

Yep, line leveler converts speaker level output down to amp input levels. Using the amp's speaker level inputs would be simplier than installing a line-leveler... and then you can use the amp's built in crossover too... no need to build your own.

Actually, I would recommend you cut and use the existing speaker wires. They are large enough gauge to handle what you'll be running through them, and they are routed well enough to deter interference and distortion. When I did this, I made the cut near the rear speakers. It was an easy area to work in.

Surprisingly, there is a 12 volt lead on the factory HU than can be used to switch on the amp. Pin #13 is a white wire for power antenna. See this pic for help: http://www.mini2.com/galleries/data/..._hu_pinout.jpg

Its always a good idea to lessen the load on the stereo's internal amplifier. As you've surmised, reducing bass output to main speakers is how its done. Turning the bass down through the stereo's tone controls will have some effect. Howerver, tone controls modulate broad frequency bands, cutting sound that you'll want your front speakers to produce... and still, those lower, high current, bass frequencies will be generated and sent to your front speakers, just to a lessor degree.

The ideal method for doing this, is to install a high-pass filter/crossover on the front speakers (see the link in previous post). This will cut all signal below, lets say, 80hz from the fronts. You would then use your new rear subs to fill in everything below 80hz. Low frequency sound waves are omni-directional to our ears-- we can't localize where they are coming from, so our brain is fooled into believing the low bass is coming from the fronts, if your phase wiring is correct.

I'd recommend using an 80hz highpass crossover on the fronts, then use your amp's internal crossover at set at 80 to 125hz.

When you're all done, and if you're pushing about 100watts to those JBLs, you should be able to buzz your review mirror... not earth shaking bass, but you'll certainly feel it. Frequency response should be decent down to about 35-40hz.

 

Go to best buy, tweeter, or a local store with a good selection.

Test out as many speakers as you can. Determine which ones you like best, then go online and see where you can get them cheapest.

 

thanks all. i checked out a locals setup and was surprised how well his polk coax and infinity basslink sounded so i ended up getting an infinity basslink and read some research online and decided on polk db 6500 components for the fronts. i was able to pick both of these for $280 so I've got some $ left over to pick up some CDs and an MP3 aux connector.

BlueMiniMe
I would so try to build my own, but unfortunately I have no technical savvy

 

i just realized that the "local's" setup shukes was referring to
was my car. (ie DB525 and BassLink)

anyone have issues fitting the Polk tweeter behind the factory
tweeter grills? (mine is a 525 coax and want to do components).

 

I have JBL GTO 6.5"s up front and 6x9"s in the rear. They are great and I still use the stock head unit. They are crisp and clear with enough bass. I am going to be installing a set of ten inch subs just so I can get the punch that I want and to be able to actually feel the bass...you know have your chest feel the boom...but over all I am extremely happy with them and with out a sub set up. I did change the fuse from 5 to 10...maybe I'll go back to a 7.5 though for safety.

 

the question was whether people had issues with installing their polk
tweeter behind the factory tweeter grill or not.


polk tweeter's housing is mounted in a one piece unit...can't take it apart.

 

ive got JBL GTO936 6x9s in the back, they get very loud, and theyre clear and have pretty decent midbass output. i like them, and they were only 77 bux shipped new

ive got boston acoustic pro60's up front.

 

still haven't excecuted the 5250's yet.... 525's sound pretty good
so not sure if the 5250 will be worth the $129 or something over at
crutchfield.

 

for the hell of it, i ordered the db5250's today to replace the 525's
and planning to install them on Friday night.

 

got the 525's out of the doors, wiring is partially done... just waiting
for the 5250's to come in tomorrow. still deciding whether i should
wire up the 525's to the rear...

wat do you think? I have a basslink in the boot.

 

got everything wired up. initial tune resulted in much clarity but having
a tweeter in the rear (db525) might sound alittle too bright. will take it
out for a drive this morning to see how it goes.

the adapter and harness crutchfield included in the package at no charge
was a really nice touch.

factory HU
db5250 front components
db525 rear coax
basslink

 

hummmm... just got back from my drive. the sound is on the
bright side but not bad. on the HU, i have everything set in the
middle except for the bass +1.

the rear coax's add a HUGE difference in total sound clarity...
might even recommend toning down the rear tweeter if you can.

total cost was well under $500.

 

the rear db525's were making the sound too bright and it sounded like schit,
so i went back to the stockers for the rear.

5250's on the front
factory on the rear
basslink

much better.

 

I have db6500's components in the front with db 690's in the rear with an Alphine 4x75 amp with a very cheap 10" subwoofer.

The guys at Car Toys who installed my amp were surprised at how well it all sounds.

I'm still thinking about replacing the HU with either Alpine 9383 or 9385.

Not sure it I will gain that much for the expense since I already have the amp.

 

i just got back from my drive again with EQ set flat, fade to center.
i think i like this setup for now.