Navigation & Audio Alpine HIFI retrofit 2013
#1
Alpine HIFI retrofit 2013
Been scouring posts for two days, I can't find anyone who has done this to a 2013 R56.
Anyone?
Also do the A Pillar trim with pods come with a grill??
Lastly, I can tell whether my car has cream or grey headliner.
Looks cream in one light looks grey in another, unless grey is dark
Anyone?
Also do the A Pillar trim with pods come with a grill??
Lastly, I can tell whether my car has cream or grey headliner.
Looks cream in one light looks grey in another, unless grey is dark
#3
The parts listing shows the color choices for the A-pillar as Carbon Black or Light Beige.
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...42&hg=65&fg=95
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...42&hg=65&fg=95
Those numbers don't exist, they are only available with tweeters.
#4
#5
#6
While Im waiting for my Alpine Retrofit kit, which arrives next week.
I just spent the last 4 hours swapping out the rear speakers with Alpine SPR-69
6X9 coaxials. Wanted a "surround" feel with high frequencies!
It's an improvement! But it was a lot of work.
Definitely tightened up the low frequencies, not as tubby anymore. The fronts now sound like crap compared.
I can confirm that the high frequencies are not limited on the rears, but the rears, as posted by IA, are heavily notched at 70hz, and every thing below that ramps off.
As i believe due to the cabin nodes.
While the panels etc were off I ran speaker cable from the boot down the left to the front kick panel connector, and 8 gauge marine power cable down the right from the boot to the battery. Might just get a sub later down the line!!
I just spent the last 4 hours swapping out the rear speakers with Alpine SPR-69
6X9 coaxials. Wanted a "surround" feel with high frequencies!
It's an improvement! But it was a lot of work.
Definitely tightened up the low frequencies, not as tubby anymore. The fronts now sound like crap compared.
I can confirm that the high frequencies are not limited on the rears, but the rears, as posted by IA, are heavily notched at 70hz, and every thing below that ramps off.
As i believe due to the cabin nodes.
While the panels etc were off I ran speaker cable from the boot down the left to the front kick panel connector, and 8 gauge marine power cable down the right from the boot to the battery. Might just get a sub later down the line!!
#7
Here is the kit,
Retrofit Kit For MINI HIFI / Alpine System part # 65412153318
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/65412153318/
&
Installation Kit for the HiFi Part # 65412167234
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/65412167234/
Yes it looks like the light beige are not available.
51432353305
51432353308
There is the carbon black and the light beige (that come with HK pods in them).
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51437236259/
&
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51437236260/
Here are the light beige with the Hk pods.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51437267690/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51437267689/
Thanks take some pics when you have it all done and installed.
Retrofit Kit For MINI HIFI / Alpine System part # 65412153318
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/65412153318/
&
Installation Kit for the HiFi Part # 65412167234
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/65412167234/
Yes it looks like the light beige are not available.
51432353305
51432353308
There is the carbon black and the light beige (that come with HK pods in them).
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51437236259/
&
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51437236260/
Here are the light beige with the Hk pods.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51437267690/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51437267689/
Thanks take some pics when you have it all done and installed.
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#10
Yep, that's what I was I saying, you cant get them with the tweeters.
Yea, love to see the before and install thread on this. Have a great weekend.
Yea, love to see the before and install thread on this. Have a great weekend.
__________________
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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#12
The dividing line of 2009 is HiFi vs HK, and black vs beige.
I replaced A, B and C pillars to black during the install.
#14
Is 2008 the most up to date version of these instructions? Sometimes connector plug position numbers change. I discovered this with a similarly old set of instructions for installing the autodimming mirror retrofit cable....for example the fuse panel position described in the instructions was no longer applicable because they'd shifted the circuits around in the fuse box. If so, then the position number in fuse panel connector may no longer be accurate. Also, the diagram doesn't say which position number the destination (20a) fuse is.
Last edited by komet155; 04-19-2015 at 06:38 PM.
#15
Is 2008 the most up to date version of these instructions? Sometimes connector plug position numbers change. I discovered this with a similarly old set of instructions for installing the autodimming mirror retrofit cable....for example the fuse panel position described in the instructions was no longer applicable because they'd shifted the circuits around in the fuse box. If so, then the position number in fuse panel connector may no longer be accurate. Also, the diagram doesn't say which position number the destination (20a) fuse is.
Per instructions:
"Connect branch A4, RT cable, to plug X11007 PIN 6. Connect plug X11007 to the fuse holder."
LAYMANS TERMS:
There is a pin connected to the end of the red power cable from the amp. See pic below.
Unplug connector X11007 from the fuse block.
Insert the pin that is attached to the power cable into the X11007 plug slot 6.
Then reinsert X11007 back into the fuse panel.
The 20A fuse is already in the fuse block, I can't remember which one it is at this time.
I think F6
As with any electrical circuit, verify that slot 6 is indeed an ignition on 12V source, and pull F6 fuse to see if power goes away.
As you can see, besides installing the speakers, the loom is simple, one plug to the amp, brown cable to the ground bolt under the sill plate, the dual plug intercepts the X3991 connector at the driver's kick panel, 2 tweeter cables (yellow and red), and the red power cable to X11007 at the fuse block.
Last edited by TVPostSound; 04-19-2015 at 09:54 PM.
#16
Yea thats the most up to date info in the pdf. TVpostsound also added some great info.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#19
My F6 fuse is 30a. The diagram shows an icon which looks kind of like a sunroof. F5 is 20a and shows an icon which appears like a radio.
I'm guessing that X11007 pin 6 may correspond to F5.
I know from my inserting a pin in X11002 (pin 38) last week that it corresponded to fuse F32, so pin numbers on connector housings don't necessarily line up with fuse position numbers.
I also have a 2013 (justa)
I'm guessing that X11007 pin 6 may correspond to F5.
I know from my inserting a pin in X11002 (pin 38) last week that it corresponded to fuse F32, so pin numbers on connector housings don't necessarily line up with fuse position numbers.
I also have a 2013 (justa)
Accurate enough for me to install on my 2013 S
Per instructions:
"Connect branch A4, RT cable, to plug X11007 PIN 6. Connect plug X11007 to the fuse holder."
LAYMANS TERMS:
There is a pin connected to the end of the red power cable from the amp. See pic below.
Unplug connector X11007 from the fuse block.
Insert the pin that is attached to the power cable into the X11007 plug slot 6.
Then reinsert X11007 back into the fuse panel.
The 20A fuse is already in the fuse block, I can't remember which one it is at this time.
I think F6
As with any electrical circuit, verify that slot 6 is indeed an ignition on 12V source, and pull F6 fuse to see if power goes away.
As you can see, besides installing the speakers, the loom is simple, one plug to the amp, brown cable to the ground bolt under the sill plate, the dual plug intercepts the X3991 connector at the driver's kick panel, 2 tweeter cables (yellow and red), and the red power cable to X11007 at the fuse block.
Per instructions:
"Connect branch A4, RT cable, to plug X11007 PIN 6. Connect plug X11007 to the fuse holder."
LAYMANS TERMS:
There is a pin connected to the end of the red power cable from the amp. See pic below.
Unplug connector X11007 from the fuse block.
Insert the pin that is attached to the power cable into the X11007 plug slot 6.
Then reinsert X11007 back into the fuse panel.
The 20A fuse is already in the fuse block, I can't remember which one it is at this time.
I think F6
As with any electrical circuit, verify that slot 6 is indeed an ignition on 12V source, and pull F6 fuse to see if power goes away.
As you can see, besides installing the speakers, the loom is simple, one plug to the amp, brown cable to the ground bolt under the sill plate, the dual plug intercepts the X3991 connector at the driver's kick panel, 2 tweeter cables (yellow and red), and the red power cable to X11007 at the fuse block.
#20
My F6 fuse is 30a. The diagram shows an icon which looks kind of like a sunroof. F5 is 20a and shows an icon which appears like a radio.
I'm guessing that X11007 pin 6 may correspond to F5.
I know from my inserting a pin in X11002 (pin 38) last week that it corresponded to fuse F32, so pin numbers on connector housings don't necessarily line up with fuse position numbers.
I also have a 2013 (justa)
I'm guessing that X11007 pin 6 may correspond to F5.
I know from my inserting a pin in X11002 (pin 38) last week that it corresponded to fuse F32, so pin numbers on connector housings don't necessarily line up with fuse position numbers.
I also have a 2013 (justa)
Follow the instructions, they are accurate. Ive been a year with no issues.
EIDT:
I just checked mine, it is F5, and the amp wire was inserted into the 2nd pin down on the right bank.
The fuse stays hot after ignition off due to accesorry delay timing.
Last edited by TVPostSound; 04-20-2015 at 08:50 PM.
#21
Yea, the HiFi alpine amp is here: 65412153319
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/65412153319/
The Hifi alpine retrofit cable harness was available on its own back in the day, now its not. Is nla.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/65412153319/
The Hifi alpine retrofit cable harness was available on its own back in the day, now its not. Is nla.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#22
Thanks TVPostSound!
Any tips on what path to take when running the cable across the inside of the dash? The instructions show it taking the lowest route, easily visible from the underside. I was concerned about crossing any components that the wire might get in the way of if/when they require removal somewhere down the line.
Any tips on what path to take when running the cable across the inside of the dash? The instructions show it taking the lowest route, easily visible from the underside. I was concerned about crossing any components that the wire might get in the way of if/when they require removal somewhere down the line.
Ok, shoot me!! I was trying to do this from memory
Follow the instructions, they are accurate. Ive been a year with no issues.
EIDT:
I just checked mine, it is F5, and the amp wire was inserted into the 2nd pin down on the right bank.
The fuse stays hot after ignition off due to accesorry delay timing.
Follow the instructions, they are accurate. Ive been a year with no issues.
EIDT:
I just checked mine, it is F5, and the amp wire was inserted into the 2nd pin down on the right bank.
The fuse stays hot after ignition off due to accesorry delay timing.
#23
Thanks TVPostSound!
Any tips on what path to take when running the cable across the inside of the dash? The instructions show it taking the lowest route, easily visible from the underside. I was concerned about crossing any components that the wire might get in the way of if/when they require removal somewhere down the line.
Any tips on what path to take when running the cable across the inside of the dash? The instructions show it taking the lowest route, easily visible from the underside. I was concerned about crossing any components that the wire might get in the way of if/when they require removal somewhere down the line.
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