I haven't received my amp, speakers, etc. yet but I am trying to make sure I have the install down to a science when I get ready to do the install. I am getting an Alpine 5-channel amp (MRX-V60) with high level speaker inputs. I plan to tap into the x9331 connector for the fronts and since my amp will be in the boot I plan to just tap into the rear speaker wires for the rear channel. The amp processes the subwoofer signal from the 4 speaker level inputs so I don't have to do anything but hook up the speaker wires for the sub. My question is how should I tap into the x9331? Should I use t-taps? Should I cut the wires? Which side of the connector? I have read a few threads on here about this subject but haven't really gotten my answer. I know I can fish the new wiring in with the door jamb connector, but is there room to run 4 speaker wires and forget about the x9331?

One off topic question, should an 18awg speaker wire be good for a 75watt rms amp?

Thanks for all your help! I am not a car audio noob, but I am not an expert either and it has been a while since I have done any car audio work.

 

There is a device here I do not have the link where you can
buy the part to hook up to that connector. I don't mean
device I mean both ends of that connector, and you get the little pins.

I am not sure what to say about the other wiring. The signal to the
rear speakers is truncated. People have measured the front and rear
and they are very far from the same.

I have an alpine amp I have not put it in yet. But when I do I am
doing it under the passenger seat.

 

They make this connector:

http://www.newministuff.com/new/shop...uctshow&id=469

Which gives you speaker leads to run to your amp without having to tap into anything. It is just a molex connecter bypass. The problem with this though.... the price! $150 USD for this thing is crazy. I would love to have the one with 4 RCA connectors but I am looking at $160 for that....

My amp accepts Line and Speaker level inputs and while speaker level would be easier IMO, the stock HU can send some serious voltage down those lines so I opted to put a LOC inline to drop the voltage down to line level and run shielded RCA's to the amp instead.

Like you my system is in it's starting phases. I gutted the car and when I get home today from work, all my parts will be sitting on my doorstep.

Originally I was going to use posi-taps to tap into the speaker wires at the x9331. http://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Conne...=pd_sim_auto_2

I now will most likely strip and solder a new wire in-line and heatshrink the cables. My LOC will sit in the footwell somewhere near the X9331 and I will run my RCA along the drivers side of the car under the passenger seat to my amp.

I would like to tap right before the OEM amp in the boot, but there will be a lot back there and adding a LOC to the mix back there when I don't need to might be the better option.

I am running all new speaker wires (16awg) to the speaker locations and disconnecting the factory wires.


-z

 

I did some research on the amp and the max input voltage for the speaker level inputs seems to be 10v. zcast, I saw your thread about this topic and read the response saying that the input voltage from the head unit can be up to 21v. Is that a typo? Does anyone know if 10v input on the amp is sufficient? If not, what sort of LOC do I need?(BTW I have the standard Boost stereo, no amp) Oh, and please be kind to my wallet, I am on a strict budget here lol. I plan on calling Alpine directly tomorrow to get some real specs from their experts. Hopefully they can tell me something other than what's in the brochure about the input voltage.

 

Just did some searching and came up with This. I logged into crutchfield chat and gave the rep some specs and he says it should work, but I consider the NAM community to be the experts on all things MINI. Whatcha think?

 

Trust me, i thought it was a typo as well. Truth be told, I won't believe it until I stick a meter on it and do it myself. Which I plan to do here in a while. It makes sense though, that since the stock HU is spitting out speaker level outputs for non hi-fi rigs and the hi-fi amp takes speaker lvl inputs for those of us with the hi-fi rig, voltage "could" get pretty high. 21v high? Is that at full output with a ton of distortion? I don't know. I know with my listening habits, it won't get anywhere near that; and it's not the correct way to set your HU to an amp anyway with the HU at full.

That being said I tossed and turned trying to decide which LOC to get. I went with a similar LOC. A 4-ch one like yours.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...che-SLC-4.html

I am still teetering on the idea of using a Re-Q5. Technically since I am only sending full-range to my fronts, I could go with the standard Re-Q (3 channel unit), but in the end, I think I will try the 4ch LOC first and see how well the amps' xover handles things.

Ideally where I am going to start is to send tone through my HU and meter the voltage coming down the speaker lines. I will get a level of what "full" is (when the voltage stops increasing at a constant rate, meaning its starting to distort) and from that level, back it off 20%. That will be my HU level.

Then I will tap into the x9331 and into the LOC. I will meter the LOC outputs and adjust the gains on the LOC so my voltage coming into my amp is right around 6v which is recommended for my amp.

Then I will adjust the gain levels on my amp to the correct voltage based on the ohm rating of my speakers to give me maximum RMS watts, which I believe for me is around 14v for 75w @ 4ohms. (I have to look at my numbers again).

Anyway, that's where I am starting from and assuming my voltages are all good coming INTO the amp, the only adjustments I need to make will be from the amp.

My concern now is will I need a noise filter or not....there's always something else...

 

Sounds like you have it all figured out; that's good I hope I can apply some of the information you've given me. I'm not going to worry with a Re-Q or anything. I will be the only one listening to it 90% of the time and I'm not an audiophile. I just like to listen to my music loud, without distortion, and with clarity. I never really had to worry about "muddy" sound until the MCS. The Charger I had before this had a Boston Acoustics stereo and they had it set up from the factory just the way it should be. It wasn't the greatest thing in the world, but it was by far one of the best sounding stock stereo's that I have heard without tweeters or sub. I never upgraded it because I was able to live with it and wanted performance over sound. With the Mini, I feel like there is a lot missing. I knew it was going to be lacking when I bought the car, but after having it for a few months now, it is driving me nuts. Good luck with your install and please share when you are done!

 

I got that connector from this site a couple years ago for $15. I just can not remember where.

 

I don't think the connector kit is the right option for me. As long as the finished product works safely and can be tied up and hidden then I'm happy. Anyone have advice on where to actually tap for the front signal? Also if the amp is going in the rear then is it ok to tap the rear speaker wiring for the rear channel going into the amp?

 

I think I would still tap right at that connector under the dash and run the
wires back along the driver's side then over to where you want it.

I don't think you should run your power wire beside it though.

It is my understanding that if you get the source from the rear speakers
it can be disappointing due to not getting the full spectrum of music.

 

Your currency conversion is WAY off.

 

Ok so I think I've made up my mind. The amp does accept high level inputs, but not high enough based on the numbers posted here on NAM. I am going with a good 4-channel line output converter to safely drop the voltage down and I am still going to use the speaker level inputs on the amp. Using the speaker level inputs means the amp gets a signal for the 5th channel (subwoofer) from the other 4 channels and filters the signal all on it's own. I hope that doing this and using a bass **** will yield the similar results to having an aftermarket HU with sub pre-outs. I'm going to tap into the front channel at the x9331 and tap for the rear channel at the rear speakers to avoid having a rat's nest in the front kick panel. I'm going to tap both channels instead of just the front because even though I don't mess with the fade much I want to keep the option open if I have to squeeze someone in the back seat.

The speakers run at 4Ω front and rear so they will have 50 watts from the amp. This should allow me to run 18awg speaker wire to the front and rear speakers which will make it much easier to run the new wire through/beside the door jamb connector. The sub is wired at 2Ω so it will get 300 watts. I have some 14awg(I think) Monster speaker wire that I will use for the sub.


Any of you experts that see this please let me know if that sounds right or if there are any precautions I should take note of before I go ripping into my car. Thanks!

 

FYI - when an amp has high level inputs that means it has an LOC built in already. There is no way you're getting 21 Volts out of the HU. After the amp, maybe, but not after the HU. 21 Volts is 110 Watts on a 4 Ohm speaker. If you were actually getting that much Voltage you wouldn't need to upgrade and your new amp would be making, literally, half as much power.

Shielded RCA cables are the biggest farce in car audio. Any cable you get will be fine as long as it's solidly constructed.

I have never, in 21 years of doing car audio, ever seen an LOC that gave you speaker level outputs. You're going to HAVE to use the RCA inputs. This isn't a problem however since the amps will still get signal to all channels nyou just have to set the signal routing switches correctly.

Don't use the rear outputs unless you're doing a channel swap since it's filtered at 100 Hz and you'll get no bass if you use them on the sub channel input. Run the front output to the rear input on the amp and the front output to the sub input. Then your fader can be a sub level control. Of note, there is a remote bass **** available (RUX-****) that you can use to control the sub level and then use your fader as normal.

Your planned speaker wires will be fine. Monster isn't necessary but if you already have it, you might as well use it.

I think I hit all of your questions but let me know of you Ned anything clarified or have more questions.

 

Ok I have all of my equipment on order now. I already have the front stage speakers and the bass ****. 6.5" Type S components for the doors and 6x9" Type S coaxials for the rear. I bought those from a local stereo shop. I am going to have the same shop make fill plates to mount the tweeters in the space for the factory 3.5". The amp, speaker wire, amp kit, and sub are all on order and should be here by the end of the week. I have decided not to use a line out converter and I am just going to use the speaker level inputs on the amp. As of right now I plan to tap both front and rear channels but I may just use the fronts depending on the sound I get when it's all put together. The amp I am getting will take 4 channels from speaker level inputs and get a signal for the sub from that. It will also take just the front channels or just the rear channels and make 5 channels from 2. So depending on how the amp handles the frequencies I may end up just running everything off of the signal I get from the front.
BTW anyone have a suggestion on where to mount the bass ****?

I will start a new thread when I get it all together and I will try to get some pics along the way. Thanks again for all the help!

 

Item + Shipping = 86 GBP

86 GBP = $136 USD

Off yes, but not way off. When I did the original conversion, the USD currency value may have been lower.

Either way, way too expensive for what it is IMO. But then again, I am a DIY type.


Side note, I know the OP has the base system, but those of us with the HiFi system have full range on front and rear I thought correct?

Also, would a base system output more voltage from the HU to the speakers than a HiFi running to an amp? I am using a 4ch LOC to feed my amp and had planned on using the rears to goto my sub via my amp w/ LPF, as I had thought it was full range on the HiFi. Is that the case?

-z

 

When you originally posted the rate was even better but I agree that you can MAKE a harness for considerably less. I'm going it for less than $40 shipped.

It's still filtered on the rears from what I remember. Take a look at the sticky at the top of this sub-forum, but I'm pretty sure ALL of the OEM systems are filtered.

I'd have to look again but my guess is no. IIRC the HiFi and HK systems accept the OEM HU's high-level inputs.

I would just use a y-adapter from the front output of the LOC and if your amp has a remote level input use that to control your sub level.

 

Did some more research. Looks like you're correct with the HiFi still cutting off the rear channels at 100hz. Which sucks for me as I am putting 6.5" woofers in the rear panels.

I would swap my F+R channels but my bluetooth phone calls will sound like crap coming out of those woofers....

So now the plan is this. Grab the front channels from the x9331 and tie them into my LC6i processor. It has 3 ins/outs. I will have the unit duplicate the one input into 3 individually leveled outputs. CH1 output is being sent to the rear for a potential sub (future). CH2 is my INPUT1 on my amp which are for my 2-way fronts. CH3 is INPUT2 on my amp which are my 6.5" woofers in the back. CH3 on the LC6i is remote-level controlled via a panel mounted ****.

So like your advice, since I lose my fade because of the shitty 100hz loss, using a remote level control for my rears essentially gives me the same thing. Since I am not using full-range speakers in the rear, this essentially gives me my bass control vs fading to control how much bass. My hopes are that I won't need a bigger sub, but that's why I am feeding a line to the rear for a basslink I have sitting around if I so choose to install it.

I could have gone with an LC2i instead and used the RCA outs on my amp for the sub line. But I guess on the LC6i I can set a volume from it and not worry about adjusting level controls for the rear 6.5" and it affecting the sub. Even though the amplified sub has it's own.

Is there really any need for me to use the rear signal?

-Z

 

So nobody in the USA is selling this adapter? I just want to add a Kicker Hideaway powered sub and would like the simple plug and play of this adapter, but you are right at $136 shipped that seems quite high!