Hi all. Sorry for my first post to be a help thread... But I do need help!
I "inherited" an 06 mini Cooper s last fall, and drove it for a month back then. It sat in my driveway until now.
It did because it had a shifting issue, which I've since fixed (cables replaced and rust removed from the shift arms outside the transmission and new tranny oil.. Good to go.
Unfortunately as of today now that I took it for a test drive the cluster no longer works. The chronograph package (I think it's called) with the gas oil temp/press and water temp gauges all work (center dash). The cluster tach/speedo and all associated lights and displays on the column do not. I've checked every fuse in the car, no diagnostic codes on obd2, and all other functions appear to work (radio, heat, lights, signals, wipers, mirrors, seat heaters, etc). Ac does not appear to cool but the fan/temp/recirculation controls all work but that may be unrelated... Not sure.
Any help is appreciated. I have a hard time believing the cluster just died.. But.. Maybe it did.
One likely related fact, while the car sat th tube for the sunroof disconnected and the drivers side (lhd) footwell had 2 inches of water. It did not get to the electronics above the center tunnel or as high as the fusebox. I lifted the carpet and let it dry with desiccant packs and so on for weeks. Everything appears. Normal.. But I didn't look nor notice if that's when the cluster stopped working.
Possibly unrelated fact 2: 5A fuse F40 (I think that's parking sensors?) was blown. I don't think the car has parking sensors. I'm pretty certain of that.
Possibly unrelated fact 3: I had to Jumpstart a car to get it out of my way in the driveway. Did it blow. Something and if so, what? And can I borrow one of those or have it scanned somehow somewhere?

Question 2: ideas on the pinout for the cluster connector (yes it's firmly seated) so I can see if power is there and if the can bus signals are there?

Thank you all... So want to get this thing on the road it's so fun!

 

When I had a similar problem o found water in my trunk shorting out the cd changer connector under the carpet, maybe check for water in other places. This problem seems to always be associated with water. Dry the front with a hair dryer to be completely sure?

 

Could be the body control module, gets wet and needs replacement.

 

I let the car dry for weeks as best I could. The foam that makes up the floor carpet is like a sponge that never dries... but I think at least 95% of the moisture was gone.. no more sitting or standing water as far as I can tell... so yes, I think overtly, stuff is as dry as it could be.

Where is the body control module? I thought (maybe incorrectly for US cars) that it was on the passenger's side - which never got wet...
Thanks guys..

 

If it was the BCM somehow - what else would be "acting strange" ? I got the impression that if everything else worked (windows, wipers, lights, etc that its unlikely to be BCM.. no? Any feedback is helpful and thank you!

And by the way is anyone in Long Island/Queens area and have a cluster I could try or a car I could try my cluster in? Just want to try swapping to see if my cluster works in another car or if another car's cluster works in mine..?
Happy to buy lunch or something

 

I believe it is on the driver side above the fuse box.

Yes it is on the massenger side by the hood release. Maybe your locking system would be acting funky too, mine would unlock itself instantly after I would try to lock it. Something similar to that is also mentioned in this post. https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/cooper-non-s/251331-tachometer-not-working.html
Before doing any expensive repairs maybe you can try drying the inside of the computer, I have heard that ANY moisture whatsoever can ruin one of these.

 

So I had this exact same issue in my 03 MCS. Here is what fixed it for me:

1. There is a 42 pin male/female connector by the driver's side fuse panel. The way they routed that if water from the disconnected sunroof drain is present it goes right into the connector. I undid that connector and several pins were so corroded they brokeoff in the sockets. I ended up cutting out the 42 pin connectors and soldering the wires together and using marine-grade shrink tubing. That harness has all the BCM controls in it as well as that secondary inst. cluster.

2. After I got that done I had to disconnect the battery for a long time (in my case I went on a week long business trip). 5 minute resets or "viagra" resets did not work.

 

Thanks a bunch, I'm going to go look at the BCM to make sure and that 42 pin connector you mention.. sounds like that might be a culprit. I'll come back soon with new info I hope!!
Thanks!!

 

Oh yeah. That 42 pin connector is it for sure. Corroded to high heaven. Many contacts gone. One wire just do connected. I'm going to have to redo the whole thing. Any ideas on replacements?

 

jradcliffe thank you!
why did it have to be 42 pins instead of 4 LOL
I'm going to have to rewire all the contacts in a new connector.. off to search...

 

Glad you were able to pinpoint the issue. Keep us updated

 

Looked at this connector yesterday trying to track down my issue. Looks like a IDE cable from a HDD to me. You would have to check the spacing but just a quick look looks like the same plug to me.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/44-Pin-2-5-IDE-Female-Ribbon-Cable-Connector-2-pieces-/270621531030?hash=item3f024cdb96

 

It probably is... Except IDE connectors are 40 instead of 42 pins... So you'd have to re wire the pins at the end after extracting them. But. I've decided. To use 2x 24 pin ATX connectors. Slow. Painful. But positive locking, disconnect able, and repairable. Ide generally is 26-28 awg so I. Worried the wires in that harness (which appear to be up to 18 awg) will. Become a fuse. There's a reason some are larger..

 

Actually if you open the link I posted it's for the 44 pin variant, you would need to eliminate 2 pins. Pretty easy if it worked.

 

I missed that it was 44.. You're right enough contacts for sure.. But the gauge issue still exists.. And unfortunately the male side is really the largest issue (its the bottom). Yay BMW...

 

Any chance that it could just be a grounding issue?

 

Definitely not. Most of the contacts in the connector were corroded. If only that connector weren't located right in the path the water drains. Sigh. All fixed now. Then of course the o2 sensor died (post cat) and then the passenger airbag (occupancy sensor) light is on. But she's good to go otherwise.

How much do you guys expect I'd get if I sold vs hold on to it? 06 s with 51k, good shape but not perfect. I need to chose between the mini and my Mercedes slk (which of course I have aa payment on)...

 

Isn't there possibly a recall on that passenger occupancy sensor? you might be able to get that one resolved for free....


I think I may be having a problem with my BCM...when I wash the car the hatch won't open for about a day then it works fine after that.....I need to check mine as well...

 

" passenger airbag (occupancy sensor) light is on "

Should have gotten a letter in the mail on the recall. Check with your local MINI dealership.

 

Hi guys sorry to reserect this thread but would someone please show me a pic of the 42 pin connector can't find it on my r53 thanks!!

 

just on the start topic of this tread, about r65u

2 weeks ago i bought from a autosales a mini one 2004 (january vin 160 000km ) , i tested good all the front gears, 1,2,3,4,5 and they works perfect and well, fast changement, no problem on syncros, no bearings noise.......

so...when i engage the reverse gear the car slap, the gear engage well, so i hear from the gear box a CLA CLA CLA CLA like a woodpecker bird in my gearbox, and when i increase the speed, the noise increase the speed , more fast, and a cltuch bad smell....

this JUST with reverse box, i tested the first 1th gear, and i dont hear any splap or claclacla sound, just the reverse....

i bring my car to who sell me the car, its a mechanic, he want to pull down the gearbox the next week , to find the problem.

He talks as who knows these gearbox units (midlands ) so i havent full trust in him,
parts or rover parts...sooo....who knows........
.


well,anyone can help me to undertnd waths the the problem on gearbox and if u ve to sell the parts to fix the gearbox (reverse gear?) ,



used unit here are expensve more than new (crazy italian marked full of after crisis bloodsuckers)

so i can found very cheap rover r65u and pegeout MA gearbox unit, i can use the parts inside those units to rebuild my gearbox?

thanks