I apologize if this is redundant information, however in the past I was never able to find a good amp turn on source. When reading the instructions for Integral Audio's new sub box (http://www.integralaudio.com/install...tion_Guide.pdf) it mentioned an amp turn on wires in the bundle for the HiFi amp or in a wiring harness in the back for the with the Base system.

Over the weekend I hooked up my amp and Bass600 to the Hi-Fi amp wire and it does work correctly. When I unlock the car they come on and then they turn off after a delay when the car is locked or if the car is turned completly off even if unlocked.

 

Yes in addition to the amp on HIFI/HK models, the amp-on signal can be found on the connector in the back of the head unit it is Pin 13, black wire.




The PDF above states the signal can also be found in the hatch bundle (that would be for the antenna diversity power supply):

Locate the two small gauge solid black wires in the wiring bundle running up the right edge of the rear hatch opening. Install a 3M T-tap on either of these (both carry the same signal). Cut the 18AWG White Turn-on Lead wire to length, strip both ends, crimp a ¼” Insulated Male Disconnect on one end, and attach to the T-tap.

 

Yes, all three of the above listed locations are correct (HiFi/HK amp, back of head unit, and hatch bundle).

Additionally, for anyone who is looking for a switched 12v signal, it appears (in both the WDS and in all of our experience with the R56/7) that all 0.5mm (22ga) solid-color black wires carry the RAD_ON signal. Can't say that for absolute certain, but it does appear to be the case.

When (or if!) I can find the time, I will be putting together an "Audio Upgrade Guide" for both 1st and 2nd gen MINIs. In the meantime, feel free to ask any questions - whether you are buying our products or not - and I will do my best to answer them if I can.

 

When using the amp turn on wire in the MINI, does the amp stay on even when the radio is off? I was thinking this might be the case since we use the audio system for alert/info gongs and such.

If the amp does stay on, then is there an advantage to using the amp turn on wire versus tapping into a switched 12v source, like the accessory port in the boot?

 

Yes the amp will turn on and off for alerts. Also, when you don't have the FOB in you can turn the radio on, if you use a switched source like the port that won't come on.

 

Excellent, thanks!

 

Ok, I rewired my amp turn on from the cig lighter in the back to the radio on black wire. What I found is that since the radio on signal gives the amp power as soon as you unlock the doors when you start the car you will most likely experience a turn on thump. I wired it back up to the cig lighter source.. I see it this way, I am running about 1k watts to my sub so it is better if the car is running to power it anyways. the cig lighter gets power when you start the car and then it won't thump because most amps have a short start up delay anyways but not enough to unlock the doors and get in to start it without the amp already being powered.

An overall better option is the MTX Req like the one in my wife's car. The Req will give you the amp turn on lead and turn it on once it receives signal from the speaker leads of the source.

 

FYI the Rad_On is in the X15 connector just behind the X9331 connector in the Drive Foot well. This was discussed a year ago in this post

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post2912319

Of this thread

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...a-circuit.html

Ad a few other threads over the past year.

This would be the easiest place to pick it up while picking up the audio from the X9331 connector.

 

but once again, it turns on when you unlock the door. (not good IMHO)

 

I will totaly agree with you on that. Not only does it turn on with unlocking the doors it does not turn off until aprox 15 minutes after the engine is turned off so it leaves the amp on and playing if you have not turned the radio off manually. Thus causing a large drain on the battery from some amps depending on the class of amp.

 

As long as you are using the factory head unit and are running an unfiltered signal to your amp you should have no problems with turn-on "thump" using the RAD_ON signal - unless there is a problem with your amplifier, and in that case you are going to get it regardless of when the amp is turned on.

The RAD_ON signal is present when you unlock/open the doors because the radio is actually turned on then - to play the "gong" sounds - even though the display is blank. Using the RAD_ON signal ensures synchronous turn-on of all devices, and all input and output muting FETs will do their jobs at the same time. Using the cigarette lighter as your turn-on will actually increase the odds that you end up with turn-on "thump" because you have asynchronous turn-on, especially if you were using a cheaper amp that didn't have muting FETs at the input and used cheaper capacitors.

Also, because the cigarette lighter is ignition-switched, if you use that for a remote turn on your subwoofer won't work with the ignition off or the key FOB out.

 

Running a Digital Designs SS1a amp. I have a LOC at the x9331 and with the Rad-on signal it thumps on start up because of the amp already being fully powered. The deck cuts signal for a second while the car starts and then releases signal (this is when it has the thump) with the Cig lighter the car is started and then the amp turns on and no thump. Best option for most people I think is still the Cig lighter.

 

This will probably sound surprising, but your "thump" is likely being caused by your LOC in this setup. What LOC are you using?

Every setup is a bit different, and if the cigarette lighter works for you I'm certainly not here to argue with you - there is nothing wrong with using it with the setup you've described. But since the remote turn-on in the MINI is an issue that comes up time and again, I just want to make sure others reading this thread know that using the RAD_ON signal is more than viable for any 2nd Gen MINI.

 

My LOC is a Partsexpress "nameless" one that is completely passive. I have never had any issues using this type. I may end up switching to a MTX ReQ though.