I have been lurking around for a bit, but I cant seem to find what I am looking for.

I have 2 10" Infinity Kappa Perfect DVQ subs that I wanted to put in, but I will probably just start with one.

My real question is, where is everyone getting the signal input for the sub on the system? Are you just tapping into the amp in the rear of the car, or are you wiring in everything from the front headunit in the speedo for this?

Any information I can get would be greatly appreciated. I am used to doing audio with aftermarket headunits, but nothing like this.

TIA

 

X9331. Search for threads on this connector. On the HIFI, it has full range signal for all speakers, and is easy to access.

 

so I found a picture of it. But where exactly does that plug into? and I assume thats the inputs that would go into the amp for the sub, yes?

 

The connector is located behind the panel just in front of the drivers door. This is the best and easiest place to tap into to get a signal to run a sub from. This works for both the HiFi and the Standard. Just be ware that in a Standard with out HiFi the signal to the rear speakers has a 100 roll off.

ALso on the HiFi the OEM amp MUST remain in place and connected. the computer system in the car requires it to be there. If you are going to use another amp to drive the speakers in the car just disconnect the OEM wires to the speakers and run new wires. The wires for the OEM speakers are really not substanial enough to handle the power of the OEM much less the power of a aftermarket amp.

 

For him, since he has the HIFI system, the easiest way is to tap the signal at the stock amp as the wires come in. You only have to remove one panel to get to it, and then a few nuts to remove the amp.

You can use the following link for the wiring diagram of the lines coming in: http://www.roadstersound.com/other_f...0MCS%20R56.pdf

 

High-five on the write up and intall! Undertaking the spkr swap this weekend. Just to clarify, If I am intalling an amp (4-ch and JL 3-way comp.), I should use the OR/GR (orange and green I'm guessing) pin 18 for my remote turn on lead....? I have the non-HiFi system, from what I have read it seems that the wiring should be there minus the fac. amp. and I should be able to tap in to the wires in the front and rear of the mini?

Also, planning on using the front Lft and right spkr leads to plug into the Audiocontrol LC6i, due to the fact that the rears roll off at 100htz. Concur?

Thanx for any advice

 

I just want to clarify before I hack wires up on my first new car EEK. Which wires would I splice into on the Hifi near the amp? I assume since its just a signal before the amp I can just tee off it it, per se?

 

sorry for the Hijack

 

I can't take credit for writing that up, a fellow nam'r did that.

since you have the "non-HIFI" system I can't really give good advice, but there is a sticky that gives a very good set of instructions on how to tap the connector by the driver's door. As far as getting a remote lead for the amp, you could do what I did and get a line level converter with a signal sensing remote lead built in. Then, in your case, tap the front leads. The only draw back is that you have to connect that type of converter to 12v power. The other option for a remote lead is to use the rear cig lighter socket, as it's only on when the car is on.

Yes you can just use T-tap connectors and the colors to tap are as follows

rear right
Pos Neg
brown - orange yellow - red

rear left
pos neg
blue - brown blue - black

 

Oh ok I thought for some reason I would be splicing into the wiring for the front speakers becuase i thought the rears had a cutoff for the frequency. Unless I am getting them mixed around

 

If you have the HIFI you can use the rears

If you have the standard system you have to tap the fronts to get full range

 

You obviously did not read the write up if you think you only have to take one panel out. In reality you have to take 3/4 of the rear of the car appart to get the one panel off.

To get that rear panel off you have to remove the following:

rear boot latch cover.
rear boot floor cover drivers side
rear driver side seat.
rear c pillar cover
rear window sill cover
Now you can remove the panel that needs to be removed to get to the amp.

This will take you the first hour then it take another hour to put it all back. All that time to find that the wires are way to short and twisted together to tap into as explained below.

Now the problem with taping the wiring at the amp is that the wires are tow short to be pulled out very far, also the sires are twisted pair wires that will need to be removed form the connector to untwist them far enough to get a wire tap on them. Then when you do get a wire tap on them they are now to short to put back into the connector as the wiring is so tight.

Now it would be much easier (and many here will agree) to tap the signal at the X9331 connector and just run the wires to the back of the car by stuffing them under the panels as you go with our having to remove the panels.

I know this as i have done it a number of times. By taping at the X9331 connector you could have the whole project done in less than one hour. Unless of course you are changing the rear 6x9's and then you have to take all this stuff off any way.

But still the wires at the amp are to tight and to small a gauge to handle any power that then new amp will push.

 

No if the car does not have the HiFi system the wiring harness for the stereo system is different than if you have the HiFi system.

The X9331 connector in the front drivers foot well connects directly to the speakers in a Non HiFi car. So there will be no signal to the rear even if the connector is there for the amp. Which i doubt it will be as it has not been there for Non HiFi cars in the past.

 

i said you only have to remove one panel, because i did it only removing one panel. it took me all of 10 minutes to remove it to get to the amp and another 20 min to remove the amp, tap the wires, and put it all back together.

the twisted wires are easy to overcome by simply cutting back the wrap and untwisting, and the gauge of those wires matters little when you are using a line level converter so that there is only .5-4watts going to the new amp.

 

I am gutting the car anyhow, need to visually see how much room there is where the factory 6x9s sleep. I friend of mine is a DLS dealer, would like to drop in their 6.5 drivers for bottom end vs adding a sub, want to save space and weight.

Thnks for letting my use your thread and for all the advice

 

Turns out the Audiocontrol LC6i has a built in "turn on trigger". When the unit picks up signal from the speaker leads it acts as a remote turn on and switches the unit on, you can piggy back that to your amps too....should be an easy install

 

mini I have an Audison BitOne i'm not using.....Doesn't even compare to the LC6i.. Check out the reviews, let me know if you're interested!

 

Let me looking into that, don't know to much about the One Bit

I've already installed the lc6i, not many options w/ regards to tuning, it does sounds pretty good though. What would you sell for?

 

I paid just under $700. haven't even opened the box. I'll do $600 plus shipping.. You can tune anything and everything with this unit...