Navigation & Audio My audio system
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Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,472
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From: Sterling, VA
My audio system
I resolved to upgrade the audio in our shop MCS. In anticipation of that, I didn't get any kind of OEM audio upgrade, so it's the "Boost" head unit with no hi-fi anything.
We have worked closely with Polk Audio in the past, and we went to them again for equipment on this car. I assembled the following equipment:
- Polk SR6500 6.5" separates up front
- Polk db 6x9's for rear fill
- Polk C400.4 4x100 amp
- RoadsterSound sub box with Earthquake 12" sub
- Rockford Fosgate 360.2
I had the folks at Myer Emco put the hardware together. Then I mostly tuned it myself, although I'd like to get back there and check myself against a real-time analyzer. I think it sounds pretty good, though.
The front two channels of the amp drive the front separates. The rear two are bridged to drive the sub. The 6x9's are run off the rear speaker outputs of the factory head unit. I don't like a whole lot of rear volume, so they're never taxed.
The amp happened to fit nicely in the well under the rear floor, where my jack would have been if I had got one with the car. I put the remaining tools (tiny wrench and screwdriver) in a bubble envelope and stuck them in the side panel of the boot. I was worried it might overheat under there, with the sub box sitting on top of it, but it hasnt' been a problem so far.
The sub box has a little compartment intended for an amp, but since I didn't use that, it's now a little hidden storage area.
Here's the sub:
I put the tweeters for the front separates in OEM pillar pods from the Hi-Fi upgrade. My car didn't have space for the tweeters. I got the tweeter-capable pillars from my local parts counter. The 360.2 unit itself went in the "secret compartment" in the upper passenger dash.
There's a HUGE amount of bass now. I was worried that the little flat subwoofer in the teeny (0.625 cubic feet) enclosure would suck, but it's not a problem getting the car to pound. In fact, I keep dialing it back. The 360.2 has a convenient **** that you can use as a sub level control.
The 360.2 is just amazing. It functions like the Cleansweep, in that you put in a test tone CD and then it flattens the OEM head unit equalization. There's a hitch to that on this car, by the way, and that's the fact that on many cars the EQ curve varies by volume level, and on this car you don't KNOW the volume level -- there's no real reference like, say, **** at 3 o'clock, or volume level 10. So you sort of have to give it your best shot and set it at a volume level you think you'll use for listening.
Anyway, the 360.2 flattens the factory head unit signal, but then it has a complete equalizer of its own. You can dial in any kind of tone control you want, even down to the individual speaker. You can delay any speaker. You can change the levels of each speaker. It's really amazing. And all this is done from your Palm or Pocket PC device. I used my Palm Treo 650 phone. It's a great conversation starter!
I have a couple of little issues I'm still trying to deal with. One is that the power for the system is wired into the body control module, not into the stereo system itself. So if I turn off the engine, my amp shuts off, although the rear speakers keep going since they're run off the head unit.
The other issue is turn-on thump. The 360.2 seems to send a pretty harsh pop when it powers on. There are some complex instructions about wiring the amp using the 360's own remote turn-on output. My installers say that IS how they wired it. I'm going to have to investigate. There are some circumstances when the body module has already been on, when there's HUGE turn-on thump. Ow.
Otherwise, though, the system sounds sweet! I'm very happy with it.
--Dan
Mach V
We have worked closely with Polk Audio in the past, and we went to them again for equipment on this car. I assembled the following equipment:
- Polk SR6500 6.5" separates up front
- Polk db 6x9's for rear fill
- Polk C400.4 4x100 amp
- RoadsterSound sub box with Earthquake 12" sub
- Rockford Fosgate 360.2
I had the folks at Myer Emco put the hardware together. Then I mostly tuned it myself, although I'd like to get back there and check myself against a real-time analyzer. I think it sounds pretty good, though.
The front two channels of the amp drive the front separates. The rear two are bridged to drive the sub. The 6x9's are run off the rear speaker outputs of the factory head unit. I don't like a whole lot of rear volume, so they're never taxed.
The amp happened to fit nicely in the well under the rear floor, where my jack would have been if I had got one with the car. I put the remaining tools (tiny wrench and screwdriver) in a bubble envelope and stuck them in the side panel of the boot. I was worried it might overheat under there, with the sub box sitting on top of it, but it hasnt' been a problem so far.
The sub box has a little compartment intended for an amp, but since I didn't use that, it's now a little hidden storage area.
Here's the sub:
I put the tweeters for the front separates in OEM pillar pods from the Hi-Fi upgrade. My car didn't have space for the tweeters. I got the tweeter-capable pillars from my local parts counter. The 360.2 unit itself went in the "secret compartment" in the upper passenger dash.
There's a HUGE amount of bass now. I was worried that the little flat subwoofer in the teeny (0.625 cubic feet) enclosure would suck, but it's not a problem getting the car to pound. In fact, I keep dialing it back. The 360.2 has a convenient **** that you can use as a sub level control.
The 360.2 is just amazing. It functions like the Cleansweep, in that you put in a test tone CD and then it flattens the OEM head unit equalization. There's a hitch to that on this car, by the way, and that's the fact that on many cars the EQ curve varies by volume level, and on this car you don't KNOW the volume level -- there's no real reference like, say, **** at 3 o'clock, or volume level 10. So you sort of have to give it your best shot and set it at a volume level you think you'll use for listening.
Anyway, the 360.2 flattens the factory head unit signal, but then it has a complete equalizer of its own. You can dial in any kind of tone control you want, even down to the individual speaker. You can delay any speaker. You can change the levels of each speaker. It's really amazing. And all this is done from your Palm or Pocket PC device. I used my Palm Treo 650 phone. It's a great conversation starter!
I have a couple of little issues I'm still trying to deal with. One is that the power for the system is wired into the body control module, not into the stereo system itself. So if I turn off the engine, my amp shuts off, although the rear speakers keep going since they're run off the head unit.
The other issue is turn-on thump. The 360.2 seems to send a pretty harsh pop when it powers on. There are some complex instructions about wiring the amp using the 360's own remote turn-on output. My installers say that IS how they wired it. I'm going to have to investigate. There are some circumstances when the body module has already been on, when there's HUGE turn-on thump. Ow.
Otherwise, though, the system sounds sweet! I'm very happy with it.
--Dan
Mach V
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: Pickens, SC/ Vermillion, SD
The CD changer power supply cord is back behind the secret compartment, it works like the line guys are using for the radar detectors in that it powers up when the door is opened or what-not and powers down about 15 minutes after the car is left alone for the night. I recently moved the power supply for my XM receiver, DVD player, and carputer to that line so they would stay on when I turned the engine off but was still listening to the radio. Not sure it's rated for a lot of current, but might work as a better trigger supply to at least get around the rear speakers being on and rest off issue.
Use red/Yellow for +12V and brown for ground.
Use red/Yellow for +12V and brown for ground.
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Dan,
Do you mind if I ask what the system cost without labor? Thanks. I am trying to get a feel of going with hifi, or going stock and replacing speakers and adding a sub like you did.
I like the sub solution!!
Do you mind if I ask what the system cost without labor? Thanks. I am trying to get a feel of going with hifi, or going stock and replacing speakers and adding a sub like you did.
I like the sub solution!!
Last edited by goosefraba; Dec 19, 2007 at 08:57 AM.
OVERDRIVE
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,233
Likes: 127
From: San Francisco
Dan, suggest you look at this, which suggests it is better to get inputs for a sub from the front channels: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=120789
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Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 2
From: Sterling, VA
--Dan
Mach V
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Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 2
From: Sterling, VA
Hmm...MSRP on the hardware:
- Polk SR6500 $899 (street price $500-$750)
- Polk db690 $179 (street price about $100?)
- Polk C400.4 $449 (street price ??? I think this is a discontinued model)
- Sub box & sub driver MSRP $480, but currently on sale.
- Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2 $699 (street price $500-ish)
You could go quite a bit less expensive on hardware and still get great results. I think the Polk db's are fine speakers; I had them in my last car.
If you're cross-shopping the OEM HiFi upgrade -- there's no comparison. The OEM system (even the HiFi) has nowhere near the clarity, and certainly not anything like the bass of this system. Nor the volume.
--Dan
Mach V
- Polk SR6500 $899 (street price $500-$750)
- Polk db690 $179 (street price about $100?)
- Polk C400.4 $449 (street price ??? I think this is a discontinued model)
- Sub box & sub driver MSRP $480, but currently on sale.
- Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2 $699 (street price $500-ish)
You could go quite a bit less expensive on hardware and still get great results. I think the Polk db's are fine speakers; I had them in my last car.
If you're cross-shopping the OEM HiFi upgrade -- there's no comparison. The OEM system (even the HiFi) has nowhere near the clarity, and certainly not anything like the bass of this system. Nor the volume.
--Dan
Mach V
Trending Topics
the last car I did....I think I did 100 sq ft 
but, yes, a little behind the speaker is better than none at all 
Thread Starter
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Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 2
From: Sterling, VA
--Dan
Mach V
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland
I resolved to upgrade the audio in our shop MCS. In anticipation of that, I didn't get any kind of OEM audio upgrade, so it's the "Boost" head unit with no hi-fi anything.
We have worked closely with Polk Audio in the past, and we went to them again for equipment on this car. I assembled the following equipment:
- Polk SR6500 6.5" separates up front
- Polk db 6x9's for rear fill
- Polk C400.4 4x100 amp
- RoadsterSound sub box with Earthquake 12" sub
- Rockford Fosgate 360.2
I had the folks at Myer Emco put the hardware together. Then I mostly tuned it myself, although I'd like to get back there and check myself against a real-time analyzer. I think it sounds pretty good, though.
The front two channels of the amp drive the front separates. The rear two are bridged to drive the sub. The 6x9's are run off the rear speaker outputs of the factory head unit. I don't like a whole lot of rear volume, so they're never taxed.
The amp happened to fit nicely in the well under the rear floor, where my jack would have been if I had got one with the car. I put the remaining tools (tiny wrench and screwdriver) in a bubble envelope and stuck them in the side panel of the boot. I was worried it might overheat under there, with the sub box sitting on top of it, but it hasnt' been a problem so far.
The sub box has a little compartment intended for an amp, but since I didn't use that, it's now a little hidden storage area.
Here's the sub:
I put the tweeters for the front separates in OEM pillar pods from the Hi-Fi upgrade. My car didn't have space for the tweeters. I got the tweeter-capable pillars from my local parts counter. The 360.2 unit itself went in the "secret compartment" in the upper passenger dash.
There's a HUGE amount of bass now. I was worried that the little flat subwoofer in the teeny (0.625 cubic feet) enclosure would suck, but it's not a problem getting the car to pound. In fact, I keep dialing it back. The 360.2 has a convenient **** that you can use as a sub level control.
The 360.2 is just amazing. It functions like the Cleansweep, in that you put in a test tone CD and then it flattens the OEM head unit equalization. There's a hitch to that on this car, by the way, and that's the fact that on many cars the EQ curve varies by volume level, and on this car you don't KNOW the volume level -- there's no real reference like, say, **** at 3 o'clock, or volume level 10. So you sort of have to give it your best shot and set it at a volume level you think you'll use for listening.
Anyway, the 360.2 flattens the factory head unit signal, but then it has a complete equalizer of its own. You can dial in any kind of tone control you want, even down to the individual speaker. You can delay any speaker. You can change the levels of each speaker. It's really amazing. And all this is done from your Palm or Pocket PC device. I used my Palm Treo 650 phone. It's a great conversation starter!
I have a couple of little issues I'm still trying to deal with. One is that the power for the system is wired into the body control module, not into the stereo system itself. So if I turn off the engine, my amp shuts off, although the rear speakers keep going since they're run off the head unit.
The other issue is turn-on thump. The 360.2 seems to send a pretty harsh pop when it powers on. There are some complex instructions about wiring the amp using the 360's own remote turn-on output. My installers say that IS how they wired it. I'm going to have to investigate. There are some circumstances when the body module has already been on, when there's HUGE turn-on thump. Ow.
Otherwise, though, the system sounds sweet! I'm very happy with it.
--Dan
Mach V
We have worked closely with Polk Audio in the past, and we went to them again for equipment on this car. I assembled the following equipment:
- Polk SR6500 6.5" separates up front
- Polk db 6x9's for rear fill
- Polk C400.4 4x100 amp
- RoadsterSound sub box with Earthquake 12" sub
- Rockford Fosgate 360.2
I had the folks at Myer Emco put the hardware together. Then I mostly tuned it myself, although I'd like to get back there and check myself against a real-time analyzer. I think it sounds pretty good, though.
The front two channels of the amp drive the front separates. The rear two are bridged to drive the sub. The 6x9's are run off the rear speaker outputs of the factory head unit. I don't like a whole lot of rear volume, so they're never taxed.
The amp happened to fit nicely in the well under the rear floor, where my jack would have been if I had got one with the car. I put the remaining tools (tiny wrench and screwdriver) in a bubble envelope and stuck them in the side panel of the boot. I was worried it might overheat under there, with the sub box sitting on top of it, but it hasnt' been a problem so far.
The sub box has a little compartment intended for an amp, but since I didn't use that, it's now a little hidden storage area.
Here's the sub:
I put the tweeters for the front separates in OEM pillar pods from the Hi-Fi upgrade. My car didn't have space for the tweeters. I got the tweeter-capable pillars from my local parts counter. The 360.2 unit itself went in the "secret compartment" in the upper passenger dash.
There's a HUGE amount of bass now. I was worried that the little flat subwoofer in the teeny (0.625 cubic feet) enclosure would suck, but it's not a problem getting the car to pound. In fact, I keep dialing it back. The 360.2 has a convenient **** that you can use as a sub level control.
The 360.2 is just amazing. It functions like the Cleansweep, in that you put in a test tone CD and then it flattens the OEM head unit equalization. There's a hitch to that on this car, by the way, and that's the fact that on many cars the EQ curve varies by volume level, and on this car you don't KNOW the volume level -- there's no real reference like, say, **** at 3 o'clock, or volume level 10. So you sort of have to give it your best shot and set it at a volume level you think you'll use for listening.
Anyway, the 360.2 flattens the factory head unit signal, but then it has a complete equalizer of its own. You can dial in any kind of tone control you want, even down to the individual speaker. You can delay any speaker. You can change the levels of each speaker. It's really amazing. And all this is done from your Palm or Pocket PC device. I used my Palm Treo 650 phone. It's a great conversation starter!
I have a couple of little issues I'm still trying to deal with. One is that the power for the system is wired into the body control module, not into the stereo system itself. So if I turn off the engine, my amp shuts off, although the rear speakers keep going since they're run off the head unit.
The other issue is turn-on thump. The 360.2 seems to send a pretty harsh pop when it powers on. There are some complex instructions about wiring the amp using the 360's own remote turn-on output. My installers say that IS how they wired it. I'm going to have to investigate. There are some circumstances when the body module has already been on, when there's HUGE turn-on thump. Ow.
Otherwise, though, the system sounds sweet! I'm very happy with it.
--Dan
Mach V
What is the Polk C400.4 4x100 amp powering??
Did you replace the 3.5" in the door as well?
Does the front two channels of the amp drive all six front speakers?
Thanks.
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Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Sterling, VA
Originally Posted by Mach V Dan
The front two channels of the amp drive the front separates. The rear two are bridged to drive the sub.
Did you replace the 3.5" in the door as well?
Does the front two channels of the amp drive all six front speakers?
--Dan
Mach V
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: Chicagoland
Your mini head unit connects to the 360.2 via the speaker wire out of the head unit, the 360.2 then connects to the C400 via RCA cables, one channel going to the fronts and one channel going to the sub, then all of your speakers are connected to the C400 except your 6x9 which are coming off the head unit...right?
One more question about the 3.5 size speaker, did you have to do any modifications to get the tweater component to fit?
Thanks for your patience.
the stock 3.5" mid was left in place to seal the cavity, but disconnected. The Polk SR6500 tweeters snap perfectly into the OEM A-pillars....a bit of hot melt to ensure they stay put and no rattles.
Thread Starter
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Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,472
Likes: 2
From: Sterling, VA
Your mini head unit connects to the 360.2 via the speaker wire out of the head unit, the 360.2 then connects to the C400 via RCA cables, one channel going to the fronts and one channel going to the sub, then all of your speakers are connected to the C400 except your 6x9 which are coming off the head unit...right?
--Dan
Mach V
2nd Gear
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Fenton, MO
What is the largest tweeter you can get into the A pillar? The Diamond HEX component system I am looking at has a fairly large tweeter (2.25") total diameter. Would it fit or should I just custom fit it to the 3 1/2" upper?
poyzin
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Former Vendor
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From: Sterling, VA
--Dan
Mach V
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