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The rear speakers sound bass heavy on the first gen HK systems because the rears are woofers only with mids and tweets up front and the 6 channel amp filters the signal to each driver electronically instead of using passive crossovers.
Mixing aftermarket radios, amps, or speakers can be done with the HK optioned cars, but it’s tricky and many often go with an entire aftermarket system wired from scratch.
The issue I think Eddie07S is referring to led to a mod reversing the front and rear speaker wires on the R56 (non-HiFi system only?) to reduce a lack of bass. The rear channels have some of the lower bass frequencies filtered out so the front and rear wires are reversed to give the larger rear speakers a full(er?) signal and have the filtered rear signal go to the front which helps reduce distortion from the smaller speakers.
The rear speakers sound bass heavy on the first gen HK systems because the rears are woofers only with mids and tweets up front and the 6 channel amp filters the signal to each driver electronically instead of using passive crossovers.
Mixing aftermarket radios, amps, or speakers can be done with the HK optioned cars, but it’s tricky and many often go with an entire aftermarket system wired from scratch.
The issue I think Eddie07S is referring to led to a mod reversing the front and rear speaker wires on the R56 (non-HiFi system only?) to reduce a lack of bass. The rear channels have some of the lower bass frequencies filtered out so the front and rear wires are reversed to give the larger rear speakers a full(er?) signal and have the filtered rear signal go to the front which helps reduce distortion from the smaller speakers.
Based on the bass and low frequencies out of the rear speaker, that part of the system is working. I found some DIY tips online to verify the speakers and wires are ok before diving any deeper. I did find that I'm missing a lower speaker in the left door, but that shouldn't keep the other front speakers from working.
I do have Nav in this car, and the screen is currently not working for some reason. I don't know if that has any direct affect on the front speakers so I'm just checking everything at this point.
Wow, I didn't realize it's been a month since my last update. The Roach has been running well so I've been driving it everywhere. That said, I have collected a few parts that will be installed in the next couple of week.
DDM Works CAI with a dry and wet filter
Not sure it will give me a HP boost with my limited mods, but it should help with IAT's pulling more air at the cowl
Nav Screen
Replacement screen I pulled from a parts car with the know/button that was missing off my non-working original
It will be a surprise as to what miles show up when I get it installed...lol
Hotchkis H-Sport Rear Arms
These are part of my plan regarding a suspension refresh
I've been looking hard into the various brands of coilovers, and it seems I'm 95% sure I'm going with AST 5100s. They are out on vacation until the end of the month so I wasn't able to get all my questions answered, but it definitely seems they check all the boxes on my list for a track part that I could still drive on the street as desired.
Well, nothing done on the car yet but I did have a good trip to a local Pick-N-Pull. I went to grab some facelift Xenon headlights, but they were already gone.
Upon looking around some more, I did find the same car had a Milltek exhaust system on it. The mid pipe was trashed since they torched it to get the cat off per CA law, but the catback was in great shape though dirty
As luck would have it MCS4FUN had some pre-facelift hangers for sale in the marketplace so I was able to pick them up. I'll custom build the mid-pipe as I have a cat behind the flex pipe off the header.
I installed the replacement screen last night, and unfortunately still no display. I checked the Nav plug again going to the screen and it is getting 12 volts.
I took apart my old screen and I didn't see any bad capacitors, broken wires, or anything wrong. I put it back in and still not working. Not even a background light.
I'm at a loss regarding what the problem is so I'll just move on for now and maybe mess with it again later. Hmmm....
Just touching base on what's occurring in the background.
I'm still debating on a mid pipe so I can install the Milltek exhaust so no movement yet there. I've ordered new tie rods and bushings to rebuild the front end so I should have those by next week. I will also be picking up a nice set of Facelift Xenon headlights this weekend to replace my PFL Xenon's where I have one out.
I've also been communicating with AST on a set of 5100 series coilovers for the Roach. After much research online and speaking with folks on track, I decided they were the best option for my intended use. I'll get the lower adjustments ***** for easy tuning at the track, and they will set them up with custom valving and springs. I'm excited to get them on the car, but it may be several weeks before I get everything together to install.
Another quick update, I was able to pickup a pair of FL Xenon headlights locally that have been Joey-modded. This was necessary since I had an ignitor go out in my originals, and as we all know the P-FL ignitors are not replaceable..
My stack of parts in the corner is getting bigger by the day so I need to start scheduling some time with the Roach for the various installs.
They will need a good sanding, 2K, and polishing to look perfect so I'll do all that prior to install.
Well, my stack of parts is getting larger so I'm going to have to plan an install weekend soon. Due to time I decided not to build my own mid pipe so a new Milltek non-resonated mid pipe is in the mail and should deliver on Monday. I'll try to swap out the exhaust next weekend along with the DDM intake just for kicks.
I'm still working with AST on coilovers so they are still a few weeks out most likely. After finishing the exhaust I'll probably go ahead and sand/paint the subframe so it's ready to build.
I'll be moving at the end of October so hopefully all the parts arrive and I can get them installed before I have to leave. I won't have a garage anymore so I need things to fall into place...lol....like that ever happens..
Not a lot of time this weekend, buy I managed to get the new Facelift Xenon headlight installed. This was one of those have to do things since only on worked.
Swapped the washers,l and trim rings. I'll probably paint the headlight rings at some point, but not today. It definitely gave the car a different look.
I'll give them a quick polish for the short-term, but them I'll come back later to sand/2K like I did the originals to get the lense perfect.
The Milltek mid-pipe delivers tomorrow so I hope to get that in next weekend. Very excited to get the new exhaust on, and I may thrown the DDM intake in as well.
Well, the order for AST is finalized and it should take around 6 weeks to get the coilovers in hand. All my new ball joints and such will just have to sit in their boxes for a little while longer. No reason I can't go ahead and install the DDM intake and Milltek after my vacation.
I was doing a wheel swap on my C5Z and planned to get the truck, but then figured those should fit in the Roach. I can say they did fit...lol
Other than that, I got the new Xenon lights adjusted so I can see past 4 feet at night.
Very excited to see the suspension coming together. I can't wait to sign up for track days this winter!
For a long time I would take my “track” tires in the boot, along with tools and whatnot. Crazy lot of space back there.
What track are you looking at going to?
Eddie, what are your thoughts on springs? AST suggested 5k/4k, but I'm thinking that is just too soft. I'm considering bumping that one step to 7k/6k. The lower spring in the rear will promote understeer, but I figure I can use the rear bar to move it neutral. Thoughts?
While in CA for the next couple of years I want to hit several. Tracks on my hit list are Thunder Hill, Buttonwillow, Willow Springs, Sears Point, and it will be awesome if I can run Laguna Seca before I leave.
Eddie, what are your thoughts on springs? AST suggested 5k/4k, but I'm thinking that is just too soft. I'm considering bumping that one step to 7k/6k. The lower spring in the rear will promote understeer, but I figure I can use the rear bar to move it neutral. Thoughts?
While in CA for the next couple of years I want to hit several. Tracks on my hit list are Thunder Hill, Buttonwillow, Willow Springs, Sears Point, and it will be awesome if I can run Laguna Seca before I leave.
Hopefully, my math is right; I think better in “lbs and in” than kg. 7k/6k is 391/335 lbs/in and 5k/4K is 280/223 lbs/in. I am more familiar with the Ohlins than the AST. I have a friend who used the AST in the past, though; great coilovers. The 7k/6k is more in line with the Ohlins; the 5k/4k is more inline with the MINI stock S shock (someone may know better than I do) and I think it is lighter then either the base JCW black springs or the optional JCW sports red springs. I would go with the 7k/5k springs, given what I know about the Ohlins and how well they work on a MINI.
As for setup...
It sounds like you would like it to be slight understeer to neutral; a conservative setup for the track... I like your thinking. This is pretty much what I have on my R56 S.
Sorry if I missed it, but what do you have for a swaybar? With an adjustable rear bar I would suggest starting with it on the softest setting and the front shocks set at 2 clicks from full stiff and the rear shocks 2 clicks from full soft. If there is too much understeer, I would soften the front by 1 click and stiffen the rear by 1 click and see what happens. If that didn’t make too much of a change, then try 2 clicks front and 2 clicks rear, soften and stiffen respectively. My guess is you will find a nice balance with that.
If you end up at about full soft in the front and full hard in the rear, then reset the swaybar up one notch and reset the shocks to about the halfway point all around with the front a bit stiffer than the rear. I think working with the shocks set around the mid point +/- a few clicks would be best. This will allow for easy future adjustments for either balance and/or compliance. Also, I am not a fan of running valves almost full closed as it may damage them.
As for ride height, set the difference in ride height front to rear with measurements from the hub center to the edge of the wheel well molding to be the same for the coilovers as it is with the stock MINI shocks. Understeer/oversteer is more easily set with the shocks and sway bar than with changes to ride height. Also, I think you will find that the MINI height difference front to rear to be reasonably conservative.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Eddie07S; Sep 29, 2021 at 11:22 AM.
Reason: Edit
Hopefully, my math is right; I think better in “lbs and in” than kg. 7k/6k is 391/335 lbs/in and 5k/4K is 280/223 lbs/in. I am more familiar with the Ohlins than the AST. I have a friend who used the AST in the past, though; great coilovers. The 7k/6k is more in line with the Ohlins; the 5k/4k is more inline with the MINI stock S shock (someone may know better than I do) and I think it is lighter then either the base JCW black springs or the optional JCW sports red springs. I would go with the 7k/5k springs, given what I know about the Ohlins and how well they work on a MINI.
As for setup...
It sounds like you would like it to be slight understeer to neutral; a conservative setup for the track... I like your thinking. This is pretty much what I have on my R56 S.
Sorry if I missed it, but what do you have for a swaybar? With an adjustable rear bar I would suggest starting with it on the softest setting and the front shocks set at 2 clicks from full stiff and the rear shocks 2 clicks from full soft. If there is too much understeer, I would soften the front by 1 click and stiffen the rear by 1 click and see what happens. If that didn’t make too much of a change, then try 2 clicks front and 2 clicks rear, soften and stiffen respectively. My guess is you will find a nice balance with that.
If you end up at about full soft in the front and full hard in the rear, then reset the swaybar up one notch and reset the shocks to about the halfway point all around with the front a bit stiffer than the rear. I think working with the shocks set around the mid point +/- a few clicks would be best. This will allow for easy future adjustments for either balance and/or compliance. Also, I am not a fan of running valves almost full closed as it may damage them.
As for ride height, set the difference in ride height front to rear with measurements from the hub center to the edge of the wheel well molding to be the same for the coilovers as it is with the stock MINI shocks. Understeer/oversteer is more easily set with the shocks and sway bar than with changes to ride height. Also, I think you will find that the MINI height difference front to rear to be reasonably conservative.
Hope this helps.
Great information, and very helpful!
I do like the suggestion of 7k/5k. I am also used to lb/in from my other cars, but I'm trying to learn the language...lol
I will likely be running a 22mm adj rear bar or something similar. It's not bought yet so I can say which one specifically.
The goal isn't about lowering as the current ride height works for me. I may lose a little which is ok, but I do want to maintain as much suspension travel as possible whe4e value added.
I guess I've been having to much fun so updates have slowed down....lol
I got the Milltek exhaust installed. I planned to build my own mid pipe, but in the end time forced me to buy a non-resonated pipe so I could get it on. Sounds great at idle, but with no resonator and cat it is LOUD when wide open. Stupid loud so I've got a new cat on order to calm it down
The DDM intake was installed as well, and that was a pretty simple install. I don't know if it's a good thing or not, but I can actually hear the blower whine over the loud exhaust so not sure what to think about that..
The AST coilovers are finally on order, but it will take 5-6 weeks for them to deliver. So the front end rebuild will be on hold for just a little longer.
Finally, my appointment arrive dand the windows are not tinted. Much better!!!
Finally, my appointment arrive dand the windows are not tinted. Much better!!!
The not tinted windows are great....
Your MINI is looking really good. MINI are really touchy with exhausts. They easily become boomy inside. It will be interesting to hear how you make out with quieting yours down. As for CAIs, the Gen I MINI worked out the best with them. It should be a good move to have it.
Your MINI is looking really good. MINI are really touchy with exhausts. They easily become boomy inside. It will be interesting to hear how you make out with quieting yours down. As for CAIs, the Gen I MINI worked out the best with them. It should be a good move to have it.
Jeez, I should do a better job proofreading before I submit...lol
Hopefully the cat is enough, but it's weird that it's not bad at idle to around 2500rpm. After that, it's just stupid loud ...haha
2500 rpm may be where the boost of the SC really starts to kick in. Also, in the old days small highly tuned performance engines would “come on cam”, which would include a jump in power and a change in the exhaust note. That may also be happening here, too, with your car.
I'm still waiting on my coil-overs to deliver, but I've got a couple of small things done in the meantime.
I got almost new control arm bushings, and they are pressed in the arm ready to go.
I also swapped out my dual pod gauges for a pair from a facelift car. I like the face of them much better, plus I have the OBD working now. The only thing that is weird is that my cruise light turns on the high beam, and high beam activates the left turn signal. I guess they moved some things around, but it's not a big deal and I'll get used to it.
What is unusual is that my airbag light came on when I plugged these in. That seems to be unrelated since that light is on the center dial so I'll investigate further this weekend in case I had a wiring harness come loose
Next thing on the list is to have a new cat installed in place of the decat pipe. I'll have it flanged and removable, but I picked up a 400cel hoping to keep the CEL off and quiet it down some since the header and Milltek exhaust is rowdy. I sure don't want CA police to stop me and get nosy....
New cat installed this morning, and the sound is now much more to my liking. It's still there with a throaty burble, and it's tame unless you kick it hard and then it comes alive with only a modest noise increase. Very pleased, plus the SC whine from the DDM intake may be heard which is a plus!
Still playing around with the FP dual pod gauges. I'm wondering if I can disassemble them and swap around the light identifications so all matches. Not really a bid deal, but it's keeping me busy until the AST coilovers arrive.
