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Thank you very much for this picture, it explains why the exhaust sound drones so much. The rubber flaps are perfectly visible in this picture (the 2 bumps). I have been battling this, see > https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4581341
Thank you very much for this picture, it explains why the exhaust sound drones so much. The rubber flaps are perfectly visible in this picture (the 2 bumps). I have been battling this, see > https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4581341
Just a quick update, I was able to get the A/C compressor issue resolved and installed back on the car. Lesson to myself and others, a cordless impact is likely better than an an driven impact when tightening the bolt... :(
The X-force header is expected to arrive tomorrow so I figured I might as well get the old stock garbage out of the way. Once pulled out, it literally just fell apart at the pre-cat where it had been previously welded very poorly.
The header bolts were quite easy to remove, and the gasket was not a stock steel shim like I expected. That is good though as I'll just spray it with Permatex Orange Spray on both sides and reuse.
I've done some readings within the forum, and I found out where the engine stampings/labels were located that tie the drivetrain to the VIN. The pad on the engine block is flat out not readable, but I didn't take another look at the label on the back of the rocker cover. Obviously, it could have been swapped at some point but the numbers on it don't match any part of the VIN as expected based on my reading. I'll also check the trans for it's label when I swap out the brakes just for my own information. It doesn't really matter, but I do wonder if the engine could have been swapped since the internal were in such good shape for over 200K miles.
The second line is what should match the VIN in some way based on my undestanding.
Ok, header off and waiting on X-force to arrive. Once it's installed and hooked up to the tailpipes, I should be able to put the front of the car back together.
Well, today was a good day. The X-Force header delivered!!!
Out of the box, I'm impressed with the quality. The flange is quite thick, and with a straightedge it's nice and flat so it should seal perfectly with the included gasket. I'll still spray the gasket with Permatex Orange spray, but I'm very pleased with the 4-2-1 header.
Once installed, I'll figure out the space I have to build a test pipe for the track and a cat for road use.
Here is the header with the included gasket and donut connection with bolts.
Working on the header install today, but I also got a few final items ordered that should finish up this phase of the build.
I reached out to ECS tuning for the following because they support the site!
Fuel filter, because it probably need its...lol
Wheel stud conversion kit to eliminate the bolts
Shock mount replacement (undecided on new struts yet)
Redline MTL to service the trans
Cabin filter replacement
I got the rear O2 soaking now so that I can hopefully get it out later today. Once that is complete and the header is in, I'll start cutting the cat down so I can fit it back into the exhaust.
Another great day in the garage, I was able to get a temporary test pipe between the header and exhaust until I can get by a muffler shop to have the original cat shortened and fitted. It doesn't have a rear O2, but I'll deal with the light in the short term.
I'm very pleased with the X-Force header. It went right it in, and everything lined up perfectly. It's hard to get decent pictures once installed, but I do like that this thing is basically hidden from view.
Once that was done, I got the radiator support back together after pulling it apart to replace the fan resistor. I checked the fan by giving it 12V just to make sure all was ok and it spun right up. Once that was confirmed, I fitted the hoses back on the radiator. Added some water and I was about ready to fire up the Roach.
Right before trying to start I got out the new C110+ to pull and clear any codes so I had a clean starting point. I found out which ABS sensor was bad so that I can replace when I swap the brakes. I also reset all the throttle body codes since it had been disconnected when I got it and idled terribly. I wasn't able to reset the Airbag light, I would clear it and then it comes right back. I hope the new 3 spoke steering wheel isn't causing a problem....
The start up went great, it settled into an idle around 800tpm and once warmed up sounds stock at idle but has a little growl with the header when revved. I bled out the coolant system and PS pump so both are good to go now.
The only problem I had was the engine fans didn't turn on with temperature. I initially thought the coolant temp switch was faulty, but the PS fan worked perfectly so i kinda ruled that out. I started checking fuses and relays trying to find the problem. I spent a while looking and researching only to see something a couple hours later that should have been more obvious to me.
The prior owner had replaced the relays for the low and high speed fans. Most likely trying to get them to work, but in reality the fan resistor was junk. What I didn't notice initially was that the relays were not the same type. They had pins 86 and 30 swapped so the relay is not getting power to kick on the fans when directed by the ECM. I got codes P0691 and P0692 so it was trying to turn them on. I'll have to stop by the dealer or other shop to pick up the correct relays and hopefully that should fix it.
The replacement relay with the pins 86 and 30 swapped.
Here are the two types, on the left is what the Mini should have.
This was my first time diving into the R53 to this degree, it wasn't bad once I got into it and overall isn't really terrible to work on. I'll finish up these last few details, and then it's time to move on to radio wiring and brakes.
Problem solved, it was indeed the wrong relays for the fan circuits.
I picked up a couple of the correct Type A relays, and the low speed kicks on and off as required based on them. The high speed never came on, but that's only because it never got hot enough though I'm confident now it's works and I'll validate later once the A/C is working.
I should have looked earlier to verify when I saw they had been changed, but I gave the prior owner the benefit of the doubt. After some of the other things I've found and fixed, I shouldn't have....lol On a positive note, my box from ECS arrived so I'll finish up putting the exterior together and start on the brakes as my next big project!
Problem solved, it was indeed the wrong relays for the fan circuits.
I picked up a couple of the correct Type A relays, and the low speed kicks on and off as required based on them. The high speed never came on, but that's only because it never got hot enough though I'm confident now it's works and I'll validate later once the A/C is working.
I should have looked earlier to verify when I saw they had been changed, but I gave the prior owner the benefit of the doubt. After some of the other things I've found and fixed, I shouldn't have....lol
On a positive note, my box from ECS arrived so I'll finish up putting the exterior together and then change the trans fluid before moving to the interior again for the radio wiring and filter. Then, I get to start on the JCW Brake Swap!!
Been working on less exciting stuff this week as I get time. I got the wiring connections resoldered for the replacement radio plug and the existing wiring. As I was finishing, it became obvious I missing some speaker wires. It's seems I don't have any to the front speakers so they must have been cut somewhere between the door and center stack. I hooked up the rear speakers for now to check the amp, and I'll just worry about the front speakers later if ever
With my box arriving from ECS, I was able to change the cabin filter. Gross is the word. I spent a while with a vacuum cleaning up after pulling the old one out. The new filter went in easily and it should make a big difference regarding the air quality.
Tonight I'll change the trans fluid and add the Redline MTL, should he a simple thing. I'll get the strut mount and fuel filter swapped in time but I need to finish getting the front of the car back together so it looks like a car again. I guess I should have vacuum checked the A/C lines for leaks, but I'll cross my fingers.
I knocked out the transmission fluid change tonight. I must say this is the easiest one I've ever done. Both the drain and fill are very accessible so no complaints at all.
The trans was low, not even a quart was pulled out so I'm glad it hasn't been driven alot. The old stuff was pretty dirty so the new Redline MTL fits the bill perfectly.
My view under, easy to find and plenty of room to work.
Old stuff coming out, not really ugly thought it smelled bad likely due to overheating since it wasn't filled correctly.
Time to put the bumpers and all back on and call the drivetrain work complete. I'll start on the rear brakes this weekend since I don't have the spacers yet for the front.
Easy indeed! But I had previous owners who overtightened the plugs. I replaced them straight away with the fluid change. Should be tightened at 43Nm / 31 ft lbs
Easy indeed! But I had previous owners who overtightened the plugs. I replaced them straight away with the fluid change. Should be tightened at 43Nm / 31 ft lbs
Fortunately, I didn't have to deal with plugs overtightened. I can only imagine why not since I've fought them at other areas on the car....
That's a good idea though, next time I change it I'll probably throw some new plugs at it just because.
I do that with almost all my cars, especially in the suspension department where the elements do all their nasty stuff to the important nuts and bolts. I once even got a nice discount at my alignment shop, because he was done way earlier than planned because of all the new nuts and bolts (which he didnt have to fight hehe)
I do that with almost all my cars, especially in the suspension department where the elements do all their nasty stuff to the important nuts and bolts. I once even got a nice discount at my alignment shop, because he was done way earlier than planned because of all the new nuts and bolts (which he didnt have to fight hehe)
You definitely got a point. I haven't started the suspension yet, but I'll be doing the same. I'm doing a brake swap this weekend, and those fasteners are badly corroded.
Last night was spent swapping all the support parts over to the new radiator support. The old one was broken in two places so it was bring held together with zip ties...lol
I know have two horns, and the fog lights came out much easier than expected. It's back on and coolant has been topped off until I start it later today to bleed the air out.
The new support looks so much better! Now I'll probably need to buy new fender liners since they look so old against it...
The weather is calling for sporadic rain so the rear brakes may have to wait until tomorrow. That's ok, just means I now have time to swap the fuel filter.
I ordered a few more parts that I needed which should arrive early to mid next week:
- JCW style grill since original damaged- New front ABS sensor- Stoptech Sport brake pads
Now that I think about it, I probably need to get my spray gun out and start looking at paint materials.
Not much time today as expected so after bleeding the coolant system I install the replacement hood latches. It took a little bit to line them up correctly, but now the hood closes and opens like butter.
From there I reinstalled the crash tubes and the bumper support. I was going to start on the fuel filter, but I wanted to do a test drive first before putting the bumpers on.
Overall, all the work done was a success. The Roach is running on four cylinders, and the engine feels quite strong. The brakes are junk and the suspension is shot so they are next of course. The temporary test pipe leaks, but that's not a worry right now. The trans shifts much better now so the new RedLine is doing its job.
Two other things to address. It appears my chain tensioner isn't as solid as I thought. Definitely some noise from a lack of tension. I'll add one to the next order for FCP.
Second is the throttle body or TPS, it's idles fine at 2-3% but is really lazy taking much more throttle than expected to take off from a stop. When I roll harder into the throttle, it seems to max out at around 26%. Plus it's a slow rise to that 26% and it doesn't increase with the rate of my right foot dropping so I'll try a adaptation reset first. If that doesn't work, I'll have to try another throttle body. I cleaned it while it was off the car so I know it's not dirty.
I'm still getting a pre-cat O2 sensor fault so I think I'll swap the pre and post O2 sensors and see if that makes a difference.
Nonetheless, it was great to run around the block a few times. Still more work to do, but a drive is a great boost during a project like this.
I did order a couple of front wheel liners as the new radiator support made them look worse than they already did.
Rear brakes tomorrow and I'll get the fuel filter in at some point this week. I may bleed the clutch as well once the brakes are done to push out to old brake fluid in it. No doubt it's been contaminated with moisture by now.
Well, the install of the R56 JCW rear brakes didn't go quite as expected. The bolts for the carrier bracket came out fairly easy, but the rotor retaining screw had been stripped long ago...
I ended up.drilling out the retaining screw as upon disassembly of the old brakes I discovered the rear hub bearing were bad. It want real noticable yet when moving,. It with the tire/wheel off the hubs didn't apin freely and smoothly. It felt like the bearing had sand in it as it it had a noticable grind feeling too it as I turned it. I sure don't want to use my new studs and brake parts on these, so I threw in an order for both sides just to make sure I'm covered.
When the complete job getting a pass, I instead focused on clearancng the arm for the R56 brake hose. It really wasn't a bid deal, just time consuming to make sure it didn't look like a hack job.
So rear brakes are on hold until later this week when the hubs arrive, but I still need to address the lazy throttle and fuel filter so I'll stay busy
Sounds familiair, my rear brakes also were long due for replacement. In the end I made the decision to also replace both the rear wheel bearings, as they looked (and performed) horrible. You made the right decision.
Sounds familiair, my rear brakes also were long due for replacement. In the end I made the decision to also replace both the rear wheel bearings, as they looked (and performed) horrible. You made the right decision.
Agreed, just one of those shoulda deals rather than just assuming they were ok. I'll probably go ahead and buy front hubs and swap them too when I'm up there just to avoid the hassle.
This morning I got the rear hubs ordered today along with new StopTech brake pads since I somehow forgot to order them with the front.
All the parts should be in Wednesday, but I'll likely spend a few days shooting CRC on the bolts so hopefully they come out much easier.
For the chain rattle, I ordered a new chain tensioner from Detroit Tuned. I guess I should have swapped it just because already, but it's not yet all together so it's all good.
So much for my table if parts being empty, I'm starting to fill it up again...lol
It's been a while since my last update, but I finally got the parts in that I ordered as part of my brake swap. Just to say it up front, this is been a PITA!
Alol the bolts for the hub and caliper bracket were seized up and corroded. After spending over a day messing with it, I decided to just pull the entire trailing arm out so j could have better access. That didn't make the bolts easier,. but it did move me to make a last minute call to upgrade to the R56 aluminum arms. I might as well replace them with something better, plus the CA yards are full of non corroded parts with like new bolts!
I made a run after work on Saturday, and scores a complete pair of arms with all mounting bolts, ABS sensors, and all the caliper/hub bolts to replace mine. It only cost me $61 which said I should have done this sooner to avoid wasting the time earlier.
Old vs new....
From there is was just matter of doing some quick cleaning before installing the alum arms with new parts.
I really like the StopTech pads. I've been running them on another I'd my track cars and they work great. Maybe mot for the hardcore driver, but I like them.
Once the new arms were in, everything bolted up easy. Due to the last minute change, I was able to connect the shocks as I need the bushing adapters. I'll get those ordered tomorrow and hope to have them by end of week.
I Still need to get the rear brakes bled. Due to a bad line I ended up making a new brake line for the right caliper. All is good now, but I'll need to bled them this week so that I can start on the fronts next weekend.
I got the new front hubs in on Friday, figured I might as well swap the fronts too just for peace of mind. The brakes look good, and I can't want to see the larger front brakes!
BTW, I could not find a plug for the pas wear sensor. Was this not available on early 2003 MCS? I looked all over and not even see see cut wires so I left the pad sensor disconnected for now
I learned today that brake pad sensors were not added until 3/03. My Mini was built 12/02 so I don't have that feature.
It doesn't worry me for the use of this car, but I didn't know that so I figured it was worth posting in case anyone else was searching a similar question.
No pics, lol, but I got the rear brakes bled and a good pedal again. The old brake fluid was nasty, very contaminated, so I was happy to get that junk out of there.
I ordered the R53 shock adaptors for the R56 arms from WMW. Just hoping they get here by Saturday at the latest so I can put the wheels back on and focus on the fronts.
BTW, the Harbor Freight pneumatic brake bleeder is awesome. I used it for my other track car when I updated brakes, and it makes the job so easy. Get one if you don't have one!
The shock spacers from WMW arrived a day early so I had to get out in the garage to finish up the back side.
With those in hand, it didn't take 15 to hand thread them in and then torque all the bolts before reinstalling the wheels. Very excited to get this done, here's a quick pic with the rear caliper seen through the R105 spokes.
I definitely like the new studs over the wheel bolts. Makes things much easier!
I moved to the front end and got it in the air, pulled the wheels, and then the wheel liner since I'll be swapping the bad strut mount. I'll be replacing both liners since the originals were cracked, plus it will clean things up nicely under the hood.
Actually, this might be the perfect time to throw in the chain tensioner since there's more room and I can see it easily now.
I figured while I was out there, I might as well check out the bolts on the front. Surprisingly, they looked pretty good without all the corrosion I fought on the back. I grabbed my wrench and easily got all the hub bolts and caliper bracket bolts loose. I then move to the driveshafts, and both of them broke loose without any fuss.
With things going so well I decided to call it a night. My luck was running high, and I wanted to leave the garage on a high note....lol
Tomorrow after work the old stuff comes off, and then after some cleaning the new stuff with start getting fitted.
Are you aware of the potential issue with stripping out the lower shock bolt from that rear aluminum control arm? I had this happen on my R56, as to a friend. MINI uses self tapping bolts on the factory assembly and they use a really high torque value in that initial assembly that, in part, goes into the bolt cutting the treads. But, MINI doesn’t have torque value for a reassembly, when the treads are already cut into the control arm. As a result the thread may be stripped out upon reassembly when using the MINI torque value. There is also a potential issue with that self tapping bolt maybe not threading in quite right and damaging threads... I expect that yours has come out ok as you were able to torque them up. Just though I would mention this as it could be a problem if doing this again in the future...
