Tigger 2.0
#76
11-26-2014, 04:55 PM
So, IYO if one is building a track/road race car, a 3" DP connected to a 3" exhaust would be preferable as long as bottom end performance was not an issue?
Are you using a single machine shop for all your machine work?
I also would like to do an motor and would love to have a shop with proper experience handle the machining.
Are you using a single machine shop for all your machine work?
I also would like to do an motor and would love to have a shop with proper experience handle the machining.
#77
11-26-2014, 06:05 PM
So, IYO if one is building a track/road race car, a 3" DP connected to a 3" exhaust would be preferable as long as bottom end performance was not an issue? Are you using a single machine shop for all your machine work? I also would like to do an motor and would love to have a shop with proper experience handle the machining.
#78
11-26-2014, 06:08 PM
3 - 4 years ago, when AccessPort was popular, Jeff Perrin did my dyno tunes at 14 - 17PSI and 17 - 20PSI. With subsequently added mods, he did remote tuning to 25PSI. These were linear tunes. July 2014 I travelled to Ziptie Dynowerks near Salt Lake City for another AP dyno tune with 28PSI. Don't know if they can tune without the AP. Chart is attached. Note it's a non-linear curve --- awesome performance when boosting. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...werdynepc2.pdf
Gotta agree with Doug tho, a good dyno tune over 22PSI is ALMOST impossible to find now.
Last time I heard from Thumper was in August, this year. I swear by his work on my N14 head. I used the following email to contact him --- thumper460@hotmail.com
Gotta agree with Doug tho, a good dyno tune over 22PSI is ALMOST impossible to find now.
Last time I heard from Thumper was in August, this year. I swear by his work on my N14 head. I used the following email to contact him --- thumper460@hotmail.com
#79
11-26-2014, 07:28 PM
Comp ratios...
Great post, as one who loves power...23+ lbs of boost is a bunch! I've kitted my 10.5:1 Mayfair S and had the ecu retuned (17+ lbs boost on the gauge at "normal speeds...80 or so) with the kit...runs well and will build a 375 HP motor in 2016 when the warranty runs out...maybe sooner...
Tigger 1.0 was great fun but due to the limitations of the factory engine it was time for a new build. I didn't initially plan on doing a build thread till it was pointed out that others might benefit, so here it is. Before I start though I have to thank ra2fanatic and thepenl for their great build threads. I'm sure there are others I am forgetting but my brain cloud is acting up. You'll see some similarities and some differences in regards to this engine build. Personal preferences, design philosophy and compromises all figure in to my choices and your own may differ significantly.
PISTON CHOICE:
My first decision was which aluminum alloy to use, 4032(M142) or 2168, and what static compression ratio to run. There are pros and cons for both alloys and the same goes for static compression. 4032 pistons (Mahle & Supertech) expand less with heat and so have tighter bore tolerances. This means no piston slap and less blowby when the engine is cold. (Irregardless of piston choice never beat on a turbo charged engine till its warmed up.) 2168 alloy pistons do expand more with heat and so are more likely to experience the above, but they have one very large offsetting factor in their favor. The base alloy is more flexible than 4032 and that's a very good thing. I'll draw an analogy from the wing spars of aircraft which are also aluminum. Manufacturers could choose a strong rigid alloy like 7075 but instead choose a 2024 aluminum. The reason being is the more flexible 2024 allows the wings to flex without cracking. Just the same with pistons. Under extreme loads or detonation a 2168 piston will flex rather than crack. So at this point I was really leaning towards a 2168 piston.
Next was choosing a static compression ratio of 10.5:1, 10:1 or 9.5:1. Higher static compression ratios have greater thermal efficiency when means more HP, fuel efficiency and crisper throttle response off boost. The problem in turbo applications like ours is dynamic compression ratio. As air density increases due to boost, the effective or dynamic compression ratio rises. Beyond a certain point severe detonation becomes inevitable and results in catastrophic engine failure. In our direct injection application a dynamic compression ratio of 15.6:1 appears to be a generally safe upper limit on 91 octane fuel. So without resorting to water/meth injection or very rich AFR's max boost would typically be 18 psi for 10.5:1 pistons, 21 psi for 10:1 pistons and 25 psi for 9.5:1 pistons. Each full point you drop compression will reduce max engine power by 3% but each psi of additional boost puts 3.4% more more air/fuel into the engine. I've attached a spreadsheet for calculating dynamic compression ratios as well as other variables. It comes loaded with JCW numbers but feel free to play with it.
The only 9.5:1 pistons available do not have the distinctive tear drop shape machined into the top of the pistons which optimizes atomization in our direct injection application. I'm a firm believer in efficiency and elegance in design so that's out. The 10.5:1 piston is also out since I plan on running boost over 23 psi. That leaves my choices as Mahle 10.25:1 or Supertech 10:1 pistons both of which are 4032 alloys. Hmm...what to do? What to do? I guess it's 10.5:1 pistons after all. Here's some comparison pics of the stock Cooper S 10.5:1 piston to the CP 10.5:1.
Stock:
CP Piston:
Side by side:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...HP%20Calc.xlsx
Next up custom rods and headaches....to be continued.
PISTON CHOICE:
My first decision was which aluminum alloy to use, 4032(M142) or 2168, and what static compression ratio to run. There are pros and cons for both alloys and the same goes for static compression. 4032 pistons (Mahle & Supertech) expand less with heat and so have tighter bore tolerances. This means no piston slap and less blowby when the engine is cold. (Irregardless of piston choice never beat on a turbo charged engine till its warmed up.) 2168 alloy pistons do expand more with heat and so are more likely to experience the above, but they have one very large offsetting factor in their favor. The base alloy is more flexible than 4032 and that's a very good thing. I'll draw an analogy from the wing spars of aircraft which are also aluminum. Manufacturers could choose a strong rigid alloy like 7075 but instead choose a 2024 aluminum. The reason being is the more flexible 2024 allows the wings to flex without cracking. Just the same with pistons. Under extreme loads or detonation a 2168 piston will flex rather than crack. So at this point I was really leaning towards a 2168 piston.
Next was choosing a static compression ratio of 10.5:1, 10:1 or 9.5:1. Higher static compression ratios have greater thermal efficiency when means more HP, fuel efficiency and crisper throttle response off boost. The problem in turbo applications like ours is dynamic compression ratio. As air density increases due to boost, the effective or dynamic compression ratio rises. Beyond a certain point severe detonation becomes inevitable and results in catastrophic engine failure. In our direct injection application a dynamic compression ratio of 15.6:1 appears to be a generally safe upper limit on 91 octane fuel. So without resorting to water/meth injection or very rich AFR's max boost would typically be 18 psi for 10.5:1 pistons, 21 psi for 10:1 pistons and 25 psi for 9.5:1 pistons. Each full point you drop compression will reduce max engine power by 3% but each psi of additional boost puts 3.4% more more air/fuel into the engine. I've attached a spreadsheet for calculating dynamic compression ratios as well as other variables. It comes loaded with JCW numbers but feel free to play with it.
The only 9.5:1 pistons available do not have the distinctive tear drop shape machined into the top of the pistons which optimizes atomization in our direct injection application. I'm a firm believer in efficiency and elegance in design so that's out. The 10.5:1 piston is also out since I plan on running boost over 23 psi. That leaves my choices as Mahle 10.25:1 or Supertech 10:1 pistons both of which are 4032 alloys. Hmm...what to do? What to do? I guess it's 10.5:1 pistons after all. Here's some comparison pics of the stock Cooper S 10.5:1 piston to the CP 10.5:1.
Stock:
CP Piston:
Side by side:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...HP%20Calc.xlsx
Next up custom rods and headaches....to be continued.
#80
11-26-2014, 09:09 PM
Great post, as one who loves power...23+ lbs of boost is a bunch! I've kitted my 10.5:1 Mayfair S and had the ecu retuned (17+ lbs boost on the gauge at "normal speeds...80 or so) with the kit...runs well and will build a 375 HP motor in 2016 when the warranty runs out...maybe sooner...
i ran 70+ pounds of boost on 2 different landspeed record engines ... both topped 200 mph (the 1000 cc went 218 mph, the 1200 cc went 223 mph)
both had carillo titanium rods and custom wisco pistons ... the crowns and skirts were 1/2 inch thick!
#81
11-27-2014, 01:06 AM
#82
11-27-2014, 08:29 AM
So, IYO if one is building a track/road race car, a 3" DP connected to a 3" exhaust would be preferable as long as bottom end performance was not an issue? Are you using a single machine shop for all your machine work? I also would like to do an motor and would love to have a shop with proper experience handle the machining.
Yes for competition purposes I'd definitely go 3". The snappy response on the low end and wide torque band is what's makes our cars so much fun on the street but in competition different story. The benefit from mid to upper RPM's is worth it and since noise level is not such a concern... go for it!
#83
11-27-2014, 09:34 AM
Oops
Unfortunately I couldn't find a single shop to handle everything. So you may have to do a bit of leg work. Your best bet is to visit all the local speed shops and ask what machine shops they recommend. If you have access to some local racing groups even better. When talking to both also ask them about where they send their heads. Takes a bit of time but that will help narrow it down some some. Then talk to the shops themselves, explain what you want to do and discuss specifics. It won't take long after those calls to figure out who your comfortable with.
#84
11-30-2014, 07:51 PM
Trivia and updates.
Ever wonder who invented the term horsepower or what it really means? Many know the formula HP=(Torque x RPM)/5252. Ever wonder where that constant 5252 comes from, or the significance of it? Well apparently James Watt invented the term horsepower in 1780 because he needed a term that would help him market a modified steam engine which he had invented. He needed a way to equate the power his engine generated to it's chief competition of the time... the horse; hence the term horsepower. Through a bit of research he learned that a horse can pull on average 33,000 lbs of weight a distance of one foot in one minute. The problem was how to equate that to a rotating engine. The solution was to equate one complete rotation of the crankshaft as 2∏. If you divide 33,000 by 2∏ you get 5252.1. Round it off and tada that's where the constant came from.
On updates I finalized a few decisions this weekend and placed some orders. The first was determining the knock sensor I wanted to install. After looking at several I believe the Phormula KS-3 best suites my needs. It needed to be firstly reliable in it's detection of knock. Reviews indicated that it is a very reliable unit and not prone to false knock reporting when it's set up properly. This unit also utilizes piston diameter to narrow in on the knock frequencies it listens to. This is of course a very smart way to approach the problem. In my work we use spectrum analysis to measure internal engine noise on turbine engines and the frequency of the peaks can tell me what components of the engine are making noise and how much of it. Same goes for a knock sensor. If it can't discriminate the correct frequency to listen to it has no idea if it's hearing knock, valve noise or the oil pump. Plus I like that in addition to the screen flashing when the knock threshold is exceeded is also has an audible alarm and LED that illuminates to help get your attention.
Also finalized what boost gauge I plan to install next to the Aquamist controller. I currently have the CravenSpeed iPhone 5 cradle and they sell a mount that will let me keep the iPhone on one side and two gauges on the other with a dual pod set up. So the Aquamist will reside next to a Depo Racing digital gauge. Both are amber/reddish with white so hopefully they'll match well. The Depo gauge I chose is electronic rather than mechanical. There are pro's and con's to both types of gauges. For the purist a mechanical gauge will be more responsive than an electrical gauge that uses a stepper motor. Even one that's made in japan. It's just the nature of the beast as the vacuum is acting directly on a diaphragm within the mechanical gauge. The problem with a mechanical gauge is that over time the reading drifts out of tolerance. Mechanical gauges need periodic calibration as the internal parts wear and the more vibration a gauge is subject to the more often it will need calibration. Electrical gauges need calibration as well but much less frequently as they are driven by a MAP sensor similar to the one the ECU uses.
So that's about it for now. I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!!
On updates I finalized a few decisions this weekend and placed some orders. The first was determining the knock sensor I wanted to install. After looking at several I believe the Phormula KS-3 best suites my needs. It needed to be firstly reliable in it's detection of knock. Reviews indicated that it is a very reliable unit and not prone to false knock reporting when it's set up properly. This unit also utilizes piston diameter to narrow in on the knock frequencies it listens to. This is of course a very smart way to approach the problem. In my work we use spectrum analysis to measure internal engine noise on turbine engines and the frequency of the peaks can tell me what components of the engine are making noise and how much of it. Same goes for a knock sensor. If it can't discriminate the correct frequency to listen to it has no idea if it's hearing knock, valve noise or the oil pump. Plus I like that in addition to the screen flashing when the knock threshold is exceeded is also has an audible alarm and LED that illuminates to help get your attention.
Also finalized what boost gauge I plan to install next to the Aquamist controller. I currently have the CravenSpeed iPhone 5 cradle and they sell a mount that will let me keep the iPhone on one side and two gauges on the other with a dual pod set up. So the Aquamist will reside next to a Depo Racing digital gauge. Both are amber/reddish with white so hopefully they'll match well. The Depo gauge I chose is electronic rather than mechanical. There are pro's and con's to both types of gauges. For the purist a mechanical gauge will be more responsive than an electrical gauge that uses a stepper motor. Even one that's made in japan. It's just the nature of the beast as the vacuum is acting directly on a diaphragm within the mechanical gauge. The problem with a mechanical gauge is that over time the reading drifts out of tolerance. Mechanical gauges need periodic calibration as the internal parts wear and the more vibration a gauge is subject to the more often it will need calibration. Electrical gauges need calibration as well but much less frequently as they are driven by a MAP sensor similar to the one the ECU uses.
So that's about it for now. I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!!
#85
12-01-2014, 10:29 PM
Ever wonder who invented the term horsepower or what it really means? Many know the formula HP=(Torque x RPM)/5252. Ever wonder where that constant 5252 comes from, or the significance of it? Well apparently James Watt invented the term horsepower in 1780 because he needed a term that would help him market a modified steam engine which he had invented. He needed a way to equate the power his engine generated to it's chief competition of the time... the horse; hence the term horsepower. Through a bit of research he learned that a horse can pull on average 33,000 lbs of weight a distance of one foot in one minute. The problem was how to equate that to a rotating engine. The solution was to equate one complete rotation of the crankshaft as 2∏. If you divide 33,000 by 2∏ you get 5252.1. Round it off and tada that's where the constant came from.
On updates I finalized a few decisions this weekend and placed some orders. The first was determining the knock sensor I wanted to install. After looking at several I believe the Phormula KS-3 best suites my needs. It needed to be firstly reliable in it's detection of knock. Reviews indicated that it is a very reliable unit and not prone to false knock reporting when it's set up properly. This unit also utilizes piston diameter to narrow in on the knock frequencies it listens to. This is of course a very smart way to approach the problem. In my work we use spectrum analysis to measure internal engine noise on turbine engines and the frequency of the peaks can tell me what components of the engine are making noise and how much of it. Same goes for a knock sensor. If it can't discriminate the correct frequency to listen to it has no idea if it's hearing knock, valve noise or the oil pump. Plus I like that in addition to the screen flashing when the knock threshold is exceeded is also has an audible alarm and LED that illuminates to help get your attention.
Also finalized what boost gauge I plan to install next to the Aquamist controller. I currently have the CravenSpeed iPhone 5 cradle and they sell a mount that will let me keep the iPhone on one side and two gauges on the other with a dual pod set up. So the Aquamist will reside next to a Depo Racing digital gauge. Both are amber/reddish with white so hopefully they'll match well. The Depo gauge I chose is electronic rather than mechanical. There are pro's and con's to both types of gauges. For the purist a mechanical gauge will be more responsive than an electrical gauge that uses a stepper motor. Even one that's made in japan. It's just the nature of the beast as the vacuum is acting directly on a diaphragm within the mechanical gauge. The problem with a mechanical gauge is that over time the reading drifts out of tolerance. Mechanical gauges need periodic calibration as the internal parts wear and the more vibration a gauge is subject to the more often it will need calibration. Electrical gauges need calibration as well but much less frequently as they are driven by a MAP sensor similar to the one the ECU uses.
So that's about it for now. I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!!
On updates I finalized a few decisions this weekend and placed some orders. The first was determining the knock sensor I wanted to install. After looking at several I believe the Phormula KS-3 best suites my needs. It needed to be firstly reliable in it's detection of knock. Reviews indicated that it is a very reliable unit and not prone to false knock reporting when it's set up properly. This unit also utilizes piston diameter to narrow in on the knock frequencies it listens to. This is of course a very smart way to approach the problem. In my work we use spectrum analysis to measure internal engine noise on turbine engines and the frequency of the peaks can tell me what components of the engine are making noise and how much of it. Same goes for a knock sensor. If it can't discriminate the correct frequency to listen to it has no idea if it's hearing knock, valve noise or the oil pump. Plus I like that in addition to the screen flashing when the knock threshold is exceeded is also has an audible alarm and LED that illuminates to help get your attention.
Also finalized what boost gauge I plan to install next to the Aquamist controller. I currently have the CravenSpeed iPhone 5 cradle and they sell a mount that will let me keep the iPhone on one side and two gauges on the other with a dual pod set up. So the Aquamist will reside next to a Depo Racing digital gauge. Both are amber/reddish with white so hopefully they'll match well. The Depo gauge I chose is electronic rather than mechanical. There are pro's and con's to both types of gauges. For the purist a mechanical gauge will be more responsive than an electrical gauge that uses a stepper motor. Even one that's made in japan. It's just the nature of the beast as the vacuum is acting directly on a diaphragm within the mechanical gauge. The problem with a mechanical gauge is that over time the reading drifts out of tolerance. Mechanical gauges need periodic calibration as the internal parts wear and the more vibration a gauge is subject to the more often it will need calibration. Electrical gauges need calibration as well but much less frequently as they are driven by a MAP sensor similar to the one the ECU uses.
So that's about it for now. I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!!
#86
12-02-2014, 03:37 PM
Ever wonder who invented the term horsepower or what it really means? Many know the formula HP=(Torque x RPM)/5252. Ever wonder where that constant 5252 comes from, or the significance of it? Well apparently James Watt invented the term horsepower in 1780 because he needed a term that would help him market a modified steam engine which he had invented. He needed a way to equate the power his engine generated to it's chief competition of the time... the horse; hence the term horsepower. Through a bit of research he learned that a horse can pull on average 33,000 lbs of weight a distance of one foot in one minute. The problem was how to equate that to a rotating engine. The solution was to equate one complete rotation of the crankshaft as 2∏. If you divide 33,000 by 2∏ you get 5252.1. Round it off and tada that's where the constant came from.
On updates I finalized a few decisions this weekend and placed some orders. The first was determining the knock sensor I wanted to install. After looking at several I believe the Phormula KS-3 best suites my needs. It needed to be firstly reliable in it's detection of knock. Reviews indicated that it is a very reliable unit and not prone to false knock reporting when it's set up properly. This unit also utilizes piston diameter to narrow in on the knock frequencies it listens to. This is of course a very smart way to approach the problem. In my work we use spectrum analysis to measure internal engine noise on turbine engines and the frequency of the peaks can tell me what components of the engine are making noise and how much of it. Same goes for a knock sensor. If it can't discriminate the correct frequency to listen to it has no idea if it's hearing knock, valve noise or the oil pump. Plus I like that in addition to the screen flashing when the knock threshold is exceeded is also has an audible alarm and LED that illuminates to help get your attention.
Also finalized what boost gauge I plan to install next to the Aquamist controller. I currently have the CravenSpeed iPhone 5 cradle and they sell a mount that will let me keep the iPhone on one side and two gauges on the other with a dual pod set up. So the Aquamist will reside next to a Depo Racing digital gauge. Both are amber/reddish with white so hopefully they'll match well. The Depo gauge I chose is electronic rather than mechanical. There are pro's and con's to both types of gauges. For the purist a mechanical gauge will be more responsive than an electrical gauge that uses a stepper motor. Even one that's made in japan. It's just the nature of the beast as the vacuum is acting directly on a diaphragm within the mechanical gauge. The problem with a mechanical gauge is that over time the reading drifts out of tolerance. Mechanical gauges need periodic calibration as the internal parts wear and the more vibration a gauge is subject to the more often it will need calibration. Electrical gauges need calibration as well but much less frequently as they are driven by a MAP sensor similar to the one the ECU uses.
So that's about it for now. I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!!
On updates I finalized a few decisions this weekend and placed some orders. The first was determining the knock sensor I wanted to install. After looking at several I believe the Phormula KS-3 best suites my needs. It needed to be firstly reliable in it's detection of knock. Reviews indicated that it is a very reliable unit and not prone to false knock reporting when it's set up properly. This unit also utilizes piston diameter to narrow in on the knock frequencies it listens to. This is of course a very smart way to approach the problem. In my work we use spectrum analysis to measure internal engine noise on turbine engines and the frequency of the peaks can tell me what components of the engine are making noise and how much of it. Same goes for a knock sensor. If it can't discriminate the correct frequency to listen to it has no idea if it's hearing knock, valve noise or the oil pump. Plus I like that in addition to the screen flashing when the knock threshold is exceeded is also has an audible alarm and LED that illuminates to help get your attention.
Also finalized what boost gauge I plan to install next to the Aquamist controller. I currently have the CravenSpeed iPhone 5 cradle and they sell a mount that will let me keep the iPhone on one side and two gauges on the other with a dual pod set up. So the Aquamist will reside next to a Depo Racing digital gauge. Both are amber/reddish with white so hopefully they'll match well. The Depo gauge I chose is electronic rather than mechanical. There are pro's and con's to both types of gauges. For the purist a mechanical gauge will be more responsive than an electrical gauge that uses a stepper motor. Even one that's made in japan. It's just the nature of the beast as the vacuum is acting directly on a diaphragm within the mechanical gauge. The problem with a mechanical gauge is that over time the reading drifts out of tolerance. Mechanical gauges need periodic calibration as the internal parts wear and the more vibration a gauge is subject to the more often it will need calibration. Electrical gauges need calibration as well but much less frequently as they are driven by a MAP sensor similar to the one the ECU uses.
So that's about it for now. I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!!
#87
12-02-2014, 09:39 PM
I'm running an OBD2 adapter ($15 Amazon.com) and have a boost gauge running on my R56 On an android phone using Torque Pro App ($5)...works well...check out my Gallery here on NAM...
#88
12-03-2014, 05:54 AM
CravenSpeed and others sell a boost tap. It is a spacer that sits between the intake manifold and the MAP sensor with a port on the side. A hose is attached there and either run to a separate MAP sensor for electrical boost gauges or all the way to the gauge itself if installing a mechanical boost gauge. It's a simple system installation and works quite well. The HSF-4 kit is the one I will be installing. Jet sizes ordered range from .9mm to 1.2mm.
#89
12-05-2014, 11:04 AM
Well the engine is going back in today. Had to make a small change with regards to the thermostat housing since the wire harnesses are different between early and later N18's. That appears to be the only difference electrically. Also replacing all the vacuum lines with silicone tubing. The original lines were hardened and some were half collapsed. Then it's time to connect all the rest of the spaghetti and other fiddly bits.
A few people have PM'ed me about the builder. It's Redline Performance. They're a BMW and Mini performance shop in Pompano Beach. I didn't want to mention them in the thread without their permission first. They've been around since 1976 and Rennie Bryant the owner has been building and racing BMW's and Mini's for years. He also sits on the Florida Region SCCA board of directors. I found them when I had my first gen "Pepper" and have always had great service at a reasonable price.
This project was the first time they've taken an N18 to this level and I'm the type of person that would rather have it done right, than done right now so it took a little longer than I originally expected. Most of that though was really due to design decisions as well as having the custom length rods made. Their lead technician Anthony has been doing the vast majority of the engine assembly work and has been absolutely great to work with. Looking forward to hearing Tigger growl again.
A few people have PM'ed me about the builder. It's Redline Performance. They're a BMW and Mini performance shop in Pompano Beach. I didn't want to mention them in the thread without their permission first. They've been around since 1976 and Rennie Bryant the owner has been building and racing BMW's and Mini's for years. He also sits on the Florida Region SCCA board of directors. I found them when I had my first gen "Pepper" and have always had great service at a reasonable price.
This project was the first time they've taken an N18 to this level and I'm the type of person that would rather have it done right, than done right now so it took a little longer than I originally expected. Most of that though was really due to design decisions as well as having the custom length rods made. Their lead technician Anthony has been doing the vast majority of the engine assembly work and has been absolutely great to work with. Looking forward to hearing Tigger growl again.
#90
12-10-2014, 11:07 AM
It's Alive... It's Alive!
It's Alive....It's Alive!
Tigger once again has a beating heart. Had to put the old coils back in as it appears I may have gotten a bad one from Ignition Projects. I'll troubleshoot that more later. Now the subframe, suspension, exhaust and front end has to go back on.
Hmm... Now that he has a heart perhaps I should think about a brain.
Last edited by Tigger2011; 12-11-2014 at 05:55 PM.
#91
12-10-2014, 02:10 PM
#92
12-10-2014, 11:09 PM
#93
12-11-2014, 09:20 AM
I had planned on it but I was too busy sticking my fingers in my ears. Not bad at idle but when the RPM's climb it gets deafening. Kinda like standing next to two Harley Davidson's with straight pipes while they rev them. Looking forward to hearing the sound of the Magnaflow exhaust on Tigger again when I pick him up. I'll get a recording of that. Driven several different cars while the build proceeded and keep walking away with the thought "Well... that sucked."
#94
12-11-2014, 02:22 PM
6th Gear
I had planned on it but I was too busy sticking my fingers in my ears. Not bad at idle but when the RPM's climb it gets deafening. Kinda like standing next to two Harley Davidson's with straight pipes while they rev them. Looking forward to hearing the sound of the Magnaflow exhaust on Tigger again when I pick him up. I'll get a recording of that. Driven several different cars while the build proceeded and keep walking away with the thought "Well... that sucked."
#95
12-11-2014, 03:09 PM
2nd Gear
#96
12-11-2014, 04:04 PM
In a straight line it could get interesting. But throw in some curves and Ra2fanatic would wipe the floor with Tigger. My suspension only includes the factory sport option, 25mm rear sway bar and 235/40ZR17 tires at this point. So a higher center of gravity, no dampening or rebound adjustment and softer springs to boot. It would not be pretty.
#97
12-11-2014, 04:19 PM
Took him for a short test drive today. Still working out some sensor kinks due to some changes on the 2014 engine but the motor felt strong.
Last edited by Tigger2011; 12-11-2014 at 05:58 PM.
#98
12-16-2014, 08:25 PM
Well it turned out not to be a sensor kink. We thought the fuel rail pressure indication was low due to air being trapped in the sensor. Turns out the sensor is reading correctly and the newest style HPFP and the MEVD17.2.2 ECU are not playing nice with each other. A new wire harness was ordered to rule out it being an electrical issue and should be in tomorrow. After that there are only two options. Replace the HPFP and or replace the 2014 intake cam with a 2011 cam so we can use the older style HPFP.
Anyone ever feel like Scrat in the movie Ice Age where the nut is juuust out of reach?
Anyone ever feel like Scrat in the movie Ice Age where the nut is juuust out of reach?
#99
12-16-2014, 10:40 PM
Well it turned out not to be a sensor kink. We thought the fuel rail pressure indication was low due to air being trapped in the sensor. Turns out the sensor is reading correctly and the newest style HPFP and the MEVD17.2.2 ECU are not playing nice with each other. A new wire harness was ordered to rule out it being an electrical issue and should be in tomorrow. After that there are only two options. Replace the HPFP and or replace the 2014 intake cam with a 2011 cam so we can use the older style HPFP. Anyone ever feel like Scrat in the movie Ice Age where the nut is juuust out of reach?
mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer
__________________
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
#100
12-17-2014, 08:36 AM
Hmm... That's a possibility. The main board on the MEVD17.2.7 ECU is different than the MEVD17.2.2 but the pin outs appear to be the same. The tune would have to be re-written however as there is only about a 75% to 80% commonality in ECU code and map locations. The problem is it requires altering about 84 individual maps in the ECU if your going to do it right and that takes time. Time that I just don't have right now. Work schedule has gone from crazy to insane and with the holidays coming up.... Needless to say I'm hoping it's either a damaged wire or just a faulty pump causing the problem.
