Good luck with it TIG !! Keep us posted. Maybe one day we can meet up.

 

You and me both. If I remember you had wondered about the CP pistons and piston slap. The piston slap is barely noticeable on cold start and by the time the engine idle RPM drops from a cold start it is gone. So maybe 30 seconds or so.

Have about 70 miles on it now. Noticed the engine currently runs a few degrees hotter than before but that's to be expected on a fresh engine that's still tight.

One a separate note I had some interesting conversations with Renntech a while back that pissed me off to no end, but I'll go into more detail on that in a later post.

 

250 miles into the break in period and got tired of clearing CEL's for the catless downpipe and the initial rougher idle on startup you get when you port the heads. So I remapped just those on the ECU today and now all is right with the world once again.

 

Awesome man...we can hardly wait for those HP and Torque readings...break her in nice and easy...then let er rip!

 

Agreed. Two things you never beat on is a cold turbo and a fresh engine...but it wasn't easy. I had the file loaded into WinOLS and I was thinking to myself. Second O2 sensor test bypassed...check, enrich cold idle...check. Hmm the boost tables are right over here. Then I heard Homer Simpson in my head. "Step away from the doughnut" DOH.

 

not doing a hard break in? that's no fun =D

 

If I'm not mistaken he is running conventional oil for the first 500 miles during break-in to get a good piston ring to cylinder wall seal.

 

Yep taking him back in Monday for a flush, 1st oil change and initial compression test. After that things should get progressively more interesting.

 

Is that drop in compression ratio (10.5:1 - 10.0: ) going to show less psi per cylinder?

 

If the rings and valves are seating well the difference should be negligible. Going from 8:1 to 10:1 will show about a 4% rise in compression test results but going from 10:1 to 12:1 will only show about a 2.7% increase. In other words the higher your static compression ratio is initially the smaller changes you will see on a compression test. The initial test is primarily to establish a baseline for monitoring engine health. If the numbers change drastically later on you can do a leak down test to determine if it's the rings or valve seals that's causing the problem.

 

Took Tigger back in for first oil change and compression test. Pretty happy with the results. Got 168, 170, 170 and 170 for cylinders 1 - 4. Jokingly mentioned that maybe we needed to re-ring cylinder #1

 

Oh goodness! Don't put a hex on it!

 

This thread is giving me anxiety. Every time i see an e-mail notification about "tigger 2.0", i get gitty about seeing dyno results or a video on the track. I know i can't be the only one...

 

I have read this entire thread from Start to beginning and omg I can't wait!

 

Believe me I know how you guys feel. In my youth I was not a very patient person but this build has taught me a thing or three on the subject. Also been working on another project that will tie into the build shortly. Next up I have to plumb the boost gauge and methanol kit. There just never seems to be enough time in the day to get everything done.

Good point Griz. I'm thinking maybe a little anti-hex is in order, and hopefully this is apropos.

"The end of a thing is better than it’s beginning; The patient in spirit is better than the proud in spirit." - Ecclesiastes 7:8

 

Wow you're compression test results make me feel unbelievably excited and lucky! I have 58,000 on my 07 MCS, 165, 165, 165 and 170! I feel like I have a brand new engine just without the forged bottom end! Wow.

 

Nice SL. Those are some great numbers, especially with the mileage. Somebody's been taking very good care of their Cooper.


When I spoke to the mechanic I asked about temp when the check was done and was told it was done cold. Hence my joke about re-ringing...strangely no one laughed... Well I thought it was funny anyway. I've always done them with the engine warm but apparently cold is better as it lets you see how the rings are sealing at their worst. Apparently doing it warm can hide a stuck/broken ring or a less than perfect seal because of the thermal expansion of the piston. I may have to buy a 12mm adapter for my compression tester and do it myself just to see what the difference is.

 

Interestingly enough I performed my compression tests cold and warm to see if there was a difference, same results no change, this goes against everything I know.

 

If the numbers are good, wouldn't this be a good thing? Even at their 'worst' they are sealing well :-)

 

Damn I don't get it. Stopped on the way home and picked up a 12mm adapter and checked it warm. Maybe 1 or 2 psi difference. Granted I'm using a different gauge but I was always led to believe the difference between hot and cold could be as much as 15 psi. I wonder if that was a hold over view from cast iron block days. Aluminum is softer and therefor more flexible. I wonder if perhaps it puts less squeeze on the liners. Either way I'm still pretty happy.

 

I mentioned previously that I had a discussion with another tuner that pissed me off to no end. I originally chose them for Tigger1.0 because of their reputation and for being able to resolve surging issues with automatics. Their price was a fair amount higher than others but I figured I was getting what I paid for. Results weren't bad either making 223 HP at 18 psi. The problem was that at anything over 18 psi the vehicle would surge while shifting. When I contacted them about tuning Tigger2.0 with my list of mods to include meth injection I was informed they don't tune for systems they don't sell and install. Seriously...are you kidding me (lots of additional descriptive verbiage deleted). Perhaps I'm a little strange or maybe just from the wrong generation, culture or planet maybe. I don't know, but I believe you should be able to perform your own modifications. The sense of accomplishment and the enjoyment of creating something that is uniquely your own is what modding is about. So scratch one tuner from my list.

Fast forward a bit, and with help from many other members here on NAM I was able to collect data logs from many different tuners and examine them. The intent initially was to select my next tuner. At the same time however I'm also the type of person that generally doesn't like having to rely on others, so I also bought the hardware and software necessary to tune Tigger myself. Maybe I'm a little weird in other ways as well because learning to alter maps was a blast. A bit challenging at first due to the scarceness of information, but I do so love a good challenge. (Add stubborn and pig headed to my list of descriptors).

Anyway, what I learned from the experience is that if your willing to devote the time, money and patience necessary, then yes you can do your own tuning. Whether or not you can create the best tune out there however is another question entirely, and I very much wanted the best tune for Tigger2.0. Thanks to the data I had collected previously I knew who was making the best tunes. I also knew mine were little better than average, and that I seriously didn't have the time to invest in making them better. Hmm... what to do, what to do? Then, thanks to Mario, the solution presented itself. What's the old saying? "If you can't beat'em... join'em."

So I'm proud to announce that South Florida finally has a Manic dealer. The company is Prototype-R, Inc. and it's none other than yours truly.

Happy Motoring

 

Congrats! I also feel the same way. I may have to do the same. Read, listen , learn...then do it myself. My Mayfair (JCW Tuning Kitted) is fine... for now.

 

Hi Tigger, Welcome to the family, now you and I can cover the entire country . I can remember, even back in 2006 when the R53 automatic were problem children. Manic has the Keys to the Castle, and even more so, for these fast, big turbo FBO automatics. I would say 75% of my customers are autos and that market will only get bigger, until a DCT comes out. I'm ready for you to break in that motor, and crank up the Power!!!! BTW Level 10, makes the Mini 6speed auto able to handle 700HP, along with quicker shifts. Actually I have been very impressed with all these FBO autos, that are abused everyday and they keep going. Lets talk this week, about some of the details. Mario mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

Thank you Mario. Your advise was much appreciated. Now we gotta work on that plan for Global Domination muahahaha. I saw the info on the Level 10 transmission. Nice setup and the price is pretty damned reasonable for what your getting. It is on my list of mods to do provided Tigger2.0 stays tight and on target. Only 750 miles on break in, and I'm getting itchy to install my Stage 3+. I have to keep distracting myself whenever I start to think about it lol.

 

Please share about this Level 10 transmission.