Just checking in to see if anyone has added a front/rear brake rotor replacement tutorial along the lines of what Octaneguy has done for brake pad replacement (IE, detailed instructions with pictures). The most recent post that I read with rotor-replacement instructions dates to March '08, and it could have been a bit more excrutiatingly detailed for a newbee like me. Thanks in advance for any leads.

 

Use the DIY for the pads and you are 90% there. In short all you need to do is remove a TORX bolt on the rotor and pop it off....

For the fronts you'll need to take off the bracket that you seperated the caliber from to get enuf room to release the rotor (in my experience). Just two bolts, no biggie; I forget what size but nothing wierd...if you have a small set of metric sockets you have it. Then remove the TROX (T50) bolt on the rotor and give the rotor a couple of good whacks to release the rust probably holding things together and watch your toes as the rotor comes off....

In the back, because of the smaller diameter on the rotor I have no trouble getting 'em off with just the caliber out of the way.

See this recent thread for a few other hints.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=144220

The only extra tool you should need is a T50 TORX socket....but a breaker bar and some anti-seize are good ideas too.

 

Agreed... really, really, really easy once the calipers are off. Exactly as stated above.

 

Ditto, just don't go crazy tight on that 50 trox when putting it back on. I had one customer that did and made his rotors feel warped. Get it snug, then "I" would put on the 4 lug or lug bolts on the rotors as if putting on the wheel and getting them hand snug then snug the 50T one more time. Just my 2 cents.

 

Does anyone have a torque figure for that T50 bolt?

 

That TORX does absolutely nothing with regards to the 'strength' of the system. As far as I've ever heard its function is simply to hold the rotor in the right place and alignment during factory assembly...and later it helps 'us'.

The wheel and lugs are what hold the rotor in place when the system is all put together. I put that TORX in with very little torque ,,,, just enuf to hold it. I lost the similar bolts that hold the drums in place on the 79 a long time ago (I don't think they were there when I bought) and the drums haven't gone anywhere.....like I said, the wheel holds everything tight to the hub.

Frankly, comin down on the TORX if the rotor isn't seated flat could really screw things up. Be sure to clean up the hub face so the rotor sits flat. Following a proper tightening sequence on the wheel should help the rotor come down flat it if it wasn't flat b4.... I don't suppose it would be optimal to have that torx come out, but on all the wheels I've messed with on MINIs that TORX was under the flat backside of the wheel where it meets the rotor anyway...so it ain't goin anyplace. Just ensure the TORX is flush or below the rotor surface as designed...

I use anti-seize to make disassembly easier next time... on the TORX and on the back of the rotor where it mates to the hub, esp around the hub rim. Very thin coat after cleaning off any rust with a wire brush.

 

According to Sir Bentley, the recommended torque is 27 Nm (20 ft-lb). That's not much.

 

Yep - I call that "snug" but not "tight".

 

Thanks! Yeah, I was more concerned I was going to put too much torque on it.

 

Smear some anti-seeze over the hub surface for ease of removal later. I'd probably do the Tx bolt with this too, not loctite. This bolt is not there on my hats so no, it doesn't really serve much purpose so if you lose it..forget it.

 

Thanks to all for the comments. This was just what I needed, especially confirmation of the Torx size (I don't have one that size). Looks like I'm going to celebrate the 4th by saving some bucks on labor costs at the dealership!