Evening all,
I have a 2013 r56S with 74k miles which idles fine (I let it warm up for 20 mins) turned it off, started again. But if I take it for a ride, the engine eventually starts shaking and dies. I have to let it cool for a few hours before I'm able to re-start it, otherwise, it just cranks. So far I have replaced the ignition coils, spark plugs, O2 sensors, oil filter and oil, drained the coolant, replace the air filter and cleaned the exhaust solenoid, yet the problem persists. My next step will be to clean the MAFS and the intake solenoid. I should mention that I also replaced the HPFP (Bosch brand) and the fuel filter, but that was almost 2 yrs ago and the car had not been moved since, due to the problems starting. A few days ago, after I was done with the tune up, I noticed the car had only 2 bars of gas, so I added a couple of gallons, the car started, I drove to the gas station, filled up, drove a few streets, engine shook an died and each time, it goes into limp mode (half engine sign) and when I clear it, I can hear a kind of click coming from the engine bay.

I should mention that when I changed the plugs, they were extremely black, the oil was black as well. But now it all is new after the tune up. I was going to add Redline to clean the carbon, but I can't, because I'm afraid the car will die on me not even half way. Also, jut now, I turned it back on, it started fine, but it failed to maintain proper RPM while in idle, so it dies.

Any suggestions will greatly appreciated.

Thank you all and happy mother's day.

 

Consider draining the gas tank with a transfer pump and then adding fresh fuel. What fault codes are present?

 

On my regular scanner, it started with P0428, cleared after I replaced the O2 sensors. Now it is back with P1588.
On the BMW/MINI scanner, I get 5E31, 94C8 and A86E.
I just tried to start the car again after 45 minutes, it started, but it could barely keep the RPM, so I died within a couple of seconds.

 

The codes are telling you to first focus on the battery and low voltage.

Measure the voltage across the battery posts with key off. It should be 12.6V or higher.

Start the car and again measure the voltage across the battery posts with the engine idling (if it stays running long enough). The voltage reading should be between 13.8V and 14.4V.

The next time the engine dies and won't restart, spray a small amount of starting fluid into the intake while cranking. If the engine runs briefly, you have a fuel delivery problem (likely due to old gas in the tank).

 

Question, are you using Top Tier fuel? I discovered very poor engine function right after getting my MINI and was strongly informed by the shop guy to use only Top Tier. No problems the past 20 years since. You can google Top Tier and get a list of stations.

 

The fuel wasn't old. After I replaced the battery, I was able to run the car without problems, but then the shaking started again. Now the tank is nearly full with new fuel

 

The voltage reads 12.6 with the engine off. Once I am able to restart the car, I will check the voltage again. The battery is only 5 days old btw.

 

Yes, I only fill up with Chevron Premium.

 

It will start once it has cooled. Then it will idle for as long as I let it. Problem is when driving. It has to cool down before I'm able to restart. Could it be the fuel pump? or the fuel filter? (I do have an extra filter). BTW, if any of you need the fuel filter housing, I have a brand new one, you can have it for free.

 

If you clear all of the above codes, do any return after turning the ignition on?

 

Try this test:
When engine is hot and won't start, pour a bottle of room temp water over the crankshaft position sensor. If the engine starts after cooling the crank sensor, replace it.

 

I'm able to clear limp mode (half engine light), but the check engine light (small one) won't clear. Funny thing is, when I was done with the tune up, both cleared and I was able to drive for a while, but then the shaking and stalling happened again.

 

I will try that! for sure. Quick question though, how would this sensor be the culprit? and why act up only when the engine is hot? I just tried to restart, the engine cranks, and it seems it wants to start, but it just can't. I bet if I wait a few more hours, it'll start again.

 

Do the codes fail to clear or do they clear and just immediately return after turning the ignition on?

 

Limp mode comes back on once I ride the car (after it shakes and dies) the rest remain. The O2 code came back on btw

 

The CPS uses the Hall Effect to measure engine rotation (rpm). The Hall Effect requires a coil of thin copper wire. Sometimes the coiled wire can develop a crack or break that creates an open circuit only when the sensor is hot (expansion). As the sensor cools and contracts, the cracked or broken wire regains contact, thereby closing the circuit and allowing the sensor to regain its function. When the sensor fails, no code is thrown because the DME just thinks that the engine is not turning. The engine will have no fuel and no spark when the DME sees that the engine is not spinning.

Question: When your crank the hot engine and it won't start, do your see a rpm signal on the tachometer or does the rpm needle stay motionless at 0 rpms.

 

I see the needle move, but it barely makes it to 800

 

This sensor access, is it top side? or do I need to lift the car again?

 

I think that the starter can only rotate the engine to ~250 rpms. If you read starter rpms in the tachometer when the engine won't start, then the CPS is likely fine.

 

Is your BMW/MINI scanner capable of reading live data, such as the fuel rail pressure and the coolant temperature?

 

Upon closer inspection, I noticed the needle doesn't move much, it barely gets about zero, after a few cranks, it still struggles to move up to what I would calculate 200 RPM.

 

Does your scan tool read live data to verify a good CPS rpm signal?

 

***Code P1588 shifts the diagnostic direction of your thread. The oil condition sensor, alternator, and intelligent battery sensor (IBS) all communicate with the DME on the BSD bus network. The oil condition sensor is shorting out and taking down the entire BSD bus network. This likely explains all of your car’s symptoms.

 

Thank you for the information. Quick couple of questions: wouldn't the oil light come on? which hasn't. Also, so this sensor is the cause of all the codes that I've gotten? What about the codes from the BMW/Mini scanner? Thanks again for the help.

 

Good questions. The oil pressure sensor and oil volume/condition sensor are functionally distinct sensors.

Yes, including the O2 sensor codes. The alternator is on the BSD bus network. Taking down the BSD bus prevents proper alternator charging, which in turn leads to a general under-voltage condition.

What causes these problems? The oil volume sensor in the oil pan wicks engine oil that creates a local sensor short and that can travel along the wires all the way to the DME connectors and DME. It's a well known BMW/Mini issue.